Help Me Stock My Garage With Equipment

[AR15Texan]

Just moved into my first house and first garage 22'x20'. I want to start metal fabrication and need advice on quality machines. I've been looking at Northern Tool Supply's website and wonder if the equipment they offer will fit the bill. Some of the projects I have in mind are a metal work/welding table, tool cabinets, an airbrush booth (16" tall x 24" wide x 14" deep), stainless steel barstools, outdoor grill center. Some of the tools I think I will need, maybe going overboard but want to plan the garage layout for everything I might need.

1. Welder, Cart, Regulator, Helment http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/WE6524P-7.html

2. Acetylene Outfit http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_9049_9049

3. Gas Cylinders and Gas not sure where to get this, live in Richardson, TX.

4. 60 Gallon Air Compressor http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_158284_158284
UPDATE: Now have an Ingersoll Rand 60-gallon, vertical, 2-stage, 5hp compressor.

5. Air Regulator/Filter/Oiler http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200311679_200311679

6. Shear/Brake and Roller Combo http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_21800_21800

7. Benchtop Shear
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200309556_200309556

8. Drill Press http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200308399_200308399

9. Grinder (floor mount)

10. Anvil, where can I get one?

11. Vertical Mill/Lathe (future purchase) http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_7171_7171

12. 20-ton press
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200326417_200326417

13. Notch Press http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200308289_200308289

[trushelrl]

Sounds like you are on a good start.
I would invest in a good welder off the bat (I've never used a Clarke before, but I recomend Lincoln or Miller - more money, but worth it in the long run). If you are going to weld anything over .25", I would step up to a 220V unit if your electrical system will support it.

As for Northern tool, I have never dealt with them. It looks like some of the stuff that Harbor Freight might sell - might want to check them out too. The HF stuff is a little cheap, but good for air tools and some hand tools as well (stay away from the Chinese electric tools if possible). The gas tanks (for the welder and the torches) you can usually buy or rent from your local gas supplier - check the yellow pages.

The 60 gallon comp will get you by OK (pending on what you do with it) - in most cases a 30 gallon 5 horse single stage will support your basic air tools if used sparingly to moderately.

As for the tools in general, you will need to determine what exactly you want to get into regarding the metal work. For automotive purposes, you might want to consider an english wheel, planishing hammer, panel beating bag/hammers, a larger (48-60") brake/roller, bead roller, etc. For blacksmithing you will need the anvil ( about a 125# will do you in most cases - you can find on ebay sometimes), kiln, hammers, etc. For machining you will need a lathe, a small mill, grinders/sanders and various tooling.

For just starting out into metal working, I would definitly look into some hand grinders 4.5" and 7", a welding outfit, a torching outfit, a drill press, a bench grinder, a good vise, and some various hand tools. There are plenty more tools out there, but you just need to find out what aspect of metal working that you want to get into and then purchase more specialized tools from there.

BTW - congrats on the new house/garage. I just moved into my first house, but my garage is only about 13.5' x 20.5' - must be nice to have some extra room

Rick

[Thumper]

A small section of railroad track works great as an anvil.

[ZRX61]

When I get a Northern catalog in the mail these days it goes straight in the trash. They lost me as a customer forever when they tried to rape me $147 shipping on a $120 toolbox....

[Roospike]

WELDER: Miller , Lincoln or Hobart . Pass on everything else.

Acetylene Outfit: VICTOR Superrange II , Harris

Gas Cylinders: check you local yellowpages for welding / gas supplies. TSC and some big box stores also have cylinders.

Air Compressor: Not sure what size you need and how much CFM of air you will be using but get the biggest you can afford.

Air Regulator/Filter/Oiler: Posted would be a good unit . I dont know if i would add oil to the air lines unless you have its own line just for oiled tools.

Shear/Brake and Roller Combo: The posted link is OK but again it will depend on how much you will be needing it.

Shear/Brake and Roller Combo: posted unit is an ok unit for light/ limited work.

Drill Press: cant say on the posted model. I have a Jet 16 1/2" model and it works great for heavy metal work.

Grinder: I have had some and used a lot of junk grinders and i went with a Wilton 8" 7.7 amp model for heavy steel work and this model works great and cost around $130.-$150.

Anvil: I have been looking too but the good ones are hard to find local states. I use a 1" thick steel plate and or my vise for what i need . normally dont do any forge work.

Vertical Mill/Lathe: cat say on the compact posted model . The only ones i have used are big industrial units.

Shop Press: Cant say on the posted model , I have heard good and bad from the cheaper units. I have used large industrial units that work great and then built my own for the shop rated / designed at 80-100 ton but use a 30 &/or 50 ton ram.

[markb1]

You might consider a plasma cutter.

It's still on my wish list.

[bluesman2a]

I went through much the same thing you are looking to do. Some general advice: you don't have to have it all to start with. Do some projects, see what you NEED, then as you get a feel for the hobby, get more tools you LIKE. A lot of those tools are cheap Chinese junk. I say this not to be inflamatory, but to set your expectations (yes, I own a lot of cheap Chinese junk myself).

Start with the basics, your list has a lot of cool gadgets, but how often would you USE them? Save a couple hundred here and there to invest in better quality basics.

Welder -- Miller, Hobart, or Lincoln... PERIOD. Do NOT skimp here, you will regret it.

Hand grinders -- I have 3-4 of them, VERY useful. Get different discs, flapwheel, cutoff, grinding rock, wire wheel, wire cup, etc. Get good ones, I like makita, but this is like toothbrushes, everybody has their own take. Get one that you find comfortable, you will be using them a LOT.

Vice -- gotta hold it to work it, get a couple.

Band-saw or chop saw -- I particularly like my band-saw, it's probably the top 3 most used tools in my shop. If you can afford it, get one with a hydraulic feed and coolant pump.

Cordless drill or drill press -- the one you have is WAY too fast. To drill metal you need a SLOW speed (200 RPM or less quite often).

Belt/disc sander -- another of the top 3 best tools I've bought. I REALLY like this one: http://www.grizzly.com/products/G1183 dollar for dollar, the best buy in my shop.

Also working stainless is a PITA. Working in stainless and/or aluminum is a whole level beyond mild steel. Before you decide to jump in on this, make sure to do some research and make sure you really want to spend that kind of $'s to go beyond normal hobbiest welding.

[engnerdan]

On the note of the Air Regulator/Filter/Oiler I would skip the oiler and just hand lube your tools unless you are 110% sure you will never paint or blow off anything that can't have oil on it.

Welder - Get a Hobart or Miller (yes they cost more but you really do get what you pay for with a welder). I got a Hobart and I love it, my High school had some too and they were used all day for weeks on end and never gave out. exceding the duty cycle many times over.

[comp]

A small section of railroad track works great as an anvil.

I agree , hard to find a section i can carry :)

[Sack]

1. Miller, Hobart or Lincoln. I prefer Miller. Make your own cart as you are buying a welder.

2. I went oxygen/propane as for me it's a better fit. Victor Superrange as mentioned elsewhere.

3. I prefer 2 smaller cylinders as with one you'll return it before it's empty just to make sure it's full enough for your project. With 2 that's not a problem.

4. I prefer an older used compressor till you save up some cash for a newer one. Then don't skimp on the new one when you buy it because it will be the workforce of your shop.

5. Less important to me, but make sure you have some drops with clean air upstream of the oiled air and consider a motorguard filter leading to the airbrush and if you go plasma.

6. no idea sorry
7. no idea sorry
8. use hand drill till you find a good old used drill press. I recently picked up an old clausing for $300.

9. Baldor - old - big wheels slow speed.

10. Ditto the RR rail. I have both anvil and rail.

11. both mill and lathe - keep an eye out in the local papers. Yup, the papers. Everyone looks online but you'll find the old guys selling their stuff in the paper cheap. :drool:
12. that should be ok. I have an old dake the classified, but you don't need that.
13. no idea sorry

Decide the tools to go big on. Don't go all in hog wild. You'll be surprised the deals that fall into your lap. Go light now and keep cash available for when the deals do pop up or else they'll pop up and you'll have just bought the same item.

[tokyo]

AR,

thanks for asking this question. It has been on my list of things to look at as well. I have pretty much the same list and need some more than I thought. I got a lincoln welder, but need a regulator and tanks. Got some stuff, but never enough you know. Plus, swap meets, or places to get them are rare sometimes.

Good luck with your find.

tok

[kyeakel]

1. Welder, Cart, Regulator, Helment http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/WE6524P-7.html
:) I have a Lincoln MIG , never a problem. I also have a Parker Plasma, TIG, Stick combo, the plasma and stick functions work suprisingly well, I haven't tried TIG yet.

2. Acetylene Outfit http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_9049_9049
:) I bought everything local, Victor brand.

3. Gas Cylinders and Gas not sure where to get this, live in Richardson, TX.
:) Tractor Supply, most speed shops, metal supply

4. 60 Gallon Air Compressor http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_158284_158284
:) I'd get bigger, 80gal and as many CFMs as you can afford. I'm upto 20cfm and still would like more for sandblasting.

5. Air Regulator/Filter/Oiler http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200311679_200311679
:) I'm not so picky here, bought Grizzly as the Williamsport store is 90 minutes from me.

6. Shear/Brake and Roller Combo http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_21800_21800
:) Bought Grizzly, works great and I think it handles 18ga. I use it on 18ga, so it does work.

7. Benchtop Shear
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200309556_200309556
:) Bought Grizzly, works great

8. Drill Press http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200308399_200308399
:) Bought Grizzly, the biggest one they had, 17in capacity. I'd probably look into the newer ones with the digital readout for speed.

9. Grinder (floor mount)
:) Baldor

10. Anvil, where can I get one?
:) I second the railroad rail, being made into one.

11. Vertical Mill/Lathe (future purchase) http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_7171_7171
:) I have one, again a Grizzly, It will do small things, and needs to take light cuts. I bought an ACRA mill (Rong Fu) which I do any milling on, the combo machine just does lathe work now.

12. 20-ton press
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200326417_200326417
:) Have one used it only once so far to press bearings off and on.

13. Notch Press http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200308289_200308289[/QUOTE]
:) I haven't purchased one of these yet, I can cut most anything with the plasma cutter. Just requires some small touch-ups with the grinder.

:) Northerntool: I've bought several things from them, no trouble with anything I bought. I'll agree with the previous poster that they're on par with HF, maybe slightly better..

Good luck and have fun with that new garage!

Kipp

[NickPrime]

A small section of railroad track works great as an anvil.

http://www.cottamhorseshoes.com/67lb-anvil-web.gif


http://www.cottamhorseshoes.com/home.htm

http://www.cottamhorseshoes.com/workshop-anvil-web.gif

Gas cylinders: Air Liquide America Corp
- www.airliquide.com
9101 Lyndon B Johnson Fwy, Dallas - (972) 234-2371

[PanelDeland]

I can afford HF or NT most of the time for stuff I wont use often.Or for starter stuff,to get by on until I can afford better.A lot of the stuff you are looking for can be bought at auto swap meets for less than at HF or NT.If you watch you can even get better quality though it may be used.Some of the used stuff will be of so much better quality that it is better used than HF/NT is new.The local paper and the "American Classifieds" are also good places to look.So is Craigs list. Good luck!

[Jared]

I would not buy that welders or torch set, i have used that welder and I really don't like it, i would go with a miller,Lincoln,Hobart or Esab. As fo torches stick with smith, harris or victor.

[Bigger Hammer]

I would not buy that welders or torch set, i have used that welder and I really don't like it, i would go with a miller,Lincoln,Hobart or Esab. As fo torches stick with smith, harris or victor.

I agree 100% with this too. I thought long and hard about my welder and torch set prior to buying them. In the end I decided I'd wait til I could afford more welder than I would ever need and a heavy duty rated torch outfit. In the end I'm glad I did it this way because I know I will never be upset over spending xxx amount of money on equipment that I have outgrown and need to replace.

[66 GMC Truckin]

Vices are indispensible as well as a good metal working/welding bench. Make sure not to buy cheap vises as you will quit using them otherwise. Record brand vises are a great investment. They do cost a bit more than the generic ones, but they will hold your work tight.

With the air compressor I wouldn't go for less than 60 gallon compressor unless all you want to do is run an air ratchet or impact. If you plan on using air sanders, drills or grinders go with the larger size.

Anvils are nice if you plan on hammering your metal hard to shape or distort, however the average joe wouldn't really use it a lot other than for bending light gauge metal or flattening some bar stock. Even though the saying get a bigger hammer is used frequently it doesn't always work out well in the end!

[comp]

anvil is good anger tool :bounce:

[jimvannoy]

If you want to get into fabrication of panels a shrinker/stretcher set, bead roller, planishing hammer, english wheel, slip roll, shear, band saw, and brake are all very nice to have.

[twinwillows]

My preferences:
Welder: Miller
Hand held 110v angle grinders, hand drills, protable bandsaw: Milwaukee
Cordless: Dewalt
Mechanics tools: Craftsman, Snapon, Proto
Compressor: Try & find an older oiled model w/a real 5HP 220V motor - 30 gal minimum.
Other shop tools: Keep your eyes open for estate & tag sales as they often have older lightly used equipment that goes for a fraction of the new or auction price.
Have fun outfitting - I did & still do.

[Uncle Buck]

It never ends, I have been adding for at least 30 years, and I do not see quitting any time soon if ever!

[jimvannoy]

It never ends, I have been adding for at least 30 years, and I do not see quitting any time soon if ever!

You got that right. If I find a "deal" I buy it even if I already have one or don't have a need for it right at the moment.

[Uncle Buck]

You got that right. If I find a "deal" I buy it even if I already have one or don't have a need for it right at the moment.

Lord, don't even open up that can of worms! It is an addiction, especially when buying used, even more so than new; when a tool I like can be bought for pocket change or not much better I rarely give a thought to how many I already have, It is going home with me! :lol_hitti

[Daves 41]

For a torch setup check out a HENROB at www.cut-like-plasma.com you might be suprised also check out the website www.metalmeet.com great site for metal fabrication.

Dave C

[trovato]

A small section of railroad track works great as an anvil.

Seriously, where do you find a small section of railroad track? That sounds harder to come by than an anvil.

[bmwpower]

Seriously, where do you find a small section of railroad track? That sounds harder to come by than an anvil.

Step 1 - Find railroad
Step 2 - Cut section of railroad with tool of your choice
Step 3 - Take section of railroad home with you

[BrianAltenhofel]

Step 1 - Find railroad
Step 2 - Cut section of railroad with tool of your choice
Step 3 - Take section of railroad home with you

Just make sure its not a section which is currently in use.

[Darren M.]

Wow. Lots of responses. Just none from the thread author. My 2¢. Make the tools unless you can just afford them. Some are easier to make than you think. ;)

[AR15Texan]

Wow. Lots of responses. Just none from the thread author. My 2¢. Make the tools unless you can just afford them. Some are easier to make than you think. ;)

Haha, no responses, sorry. I've been stuck as all the new lawn equipment I had to buy for my new (and first) house, existing tools, and one car are filling up my tiny 20' garage. Also busy at work with a week long trip doing test equipment installation. I need to build a storage shed in the backyard first then I can start on my tool wish list. I'm required to submit plans to the HOA and city, the shed will encroach on a 15' BL

I've also dug a 10' x 12' garden and other outdoor maintenance that is eating up my weekend. Just bought a "new" used 2004 Audi A6 last month and yesterday discovered the driver side CV boot failed and coated the inside rim with grease. So now I wish I had that compressor for the up and coming repair job.

A couple of months ago at work I installed an Industrial Air compressor from Northern Tool. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200311707_200311707
Their customer service is so horrible I will be hard pressed to use them again (their state 5 day backorder turned out to be over 5 weeks). But I was able to gather some experience doing the installation job myself. I went to Grainger and picked up some rubber isolation mounts (I think these are it http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3CC14) and some concrete floor anchors (I believe these http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2G488). Borrowed a hammer drill and bolted the compressor to the floor. I then installed a Grainger filter/regulator and adapters for a 50' hose. Wired it to a dedicated 220VAC, 20A outlet I had the electricians drop last year when the company I worked for moved into the building.

The compressor runs fairly quiet (kinda loud when you stand next to it, but not so annoying when outside the tool room). If I remember I will bring my SPL meter to work and see exactly how loud it is. But there is hardly any vibration from the compressor, that isolation rubber works great, I highly recommend it.

[jay50]

Just make sure its not a section which is currently in use.

Hmm...maybe that explains the recent train derailing I read about recently...one of the GJ guys need to get a piece of rail for the shop...:lol_hitti:beer:

[AR15Texan]

Well I just picked up my Ingersoll Rand 2340 T30 (60-gal, vertical, 2-stage, 5-hp) compressor today. Gathering pieces for the installation. I would like to run hard line from the compressor outlet to a panel on the wall where I can mount the filter, regulator, and oiler. I would like to split the output so it can go to the oiler for running air tools and to dessicant/filter for running spray guns and an airbrush. Does any have examples they can post?

[stricht8]

For metal fabrication tools,

The best english wheels are made by Imperial:
http://imperialwheelingmachines.com/ but they are expensive.

The bead roller staple, believe it or not is the 18 in depth Harbor Freight unit.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34104
This unit is often on sale and is useless out of the box. Everybody welds reinforcements to it as the upper arm flexes "walks" Check
http://www.metalmeet.com for many threads on how to modify this unit.

The harbor freight planishing hammer also seems to be decent but needs some minor modifications.

Snap-on and Proto (can't get new anymore) body hammers are generally regarded to be the best. The SO hammers are really nice and feel just right in your hand. Martin hammers and dollies are also very good.

Also check out http://www.daggertools.com for more metalworking tools.

This tool by MAC is amazing at grinding down weld beads.
http://www.mactools.com/Mac/Mac+Products/Catalog/Power+Tools/Air+Tools/Die+Grinder/AG200

[e-tek]

WELDER: Miller , Lincoln or Hobart . Pass on everything else.
I can't belive you guys are so hoity-toity! :pimpflash Don't tell me if it's not a major brand name it isn't worth looking at! Maybe some people can't afford, don't need, aren't swayed by the brand-name stuff!:spit: I grew up in a body shop where EVERYRHING was done with Oxy-Acetylene and now with a mig, it's childs play - and just about any mig will do! I didn't want to put out $900.00 a the time, so I bought a CHEAP chinese mig :shocking:for $170.00 and have had it for 3 years, no hick-ups and it's welded many patch panels, quarter panels and even square tubing. While I'm not saying I too wouldn't like a Lincoln, I don't think it's the be all - end all and I certianly think there's better ways to spend you first grand on tools!:thumbup:
For a grand you could get a cheapy mig, some handtools (snips, hammers, dollies), a vice, anvil (the RR tie!) a small break, grinder (hand and bench), etc!! Then, if the kid is really into it, and see's the value in it, he can go ahead and buy the best.
And I don't always go for the cheap stuff - my compressor and lift get more use so I didn't skimp on them!:beer:

[nissan_crawler]

I can't belive you guys are so hoity-toity! :pimpflash Don't tell me if it's not a major brand name it isn't worth looking at! Maybe some people can't afford, don't need, aren't swayed by the brand-name stuff!:spit: I grew up in a body shop where EVERYRHING was done with Oxy-Acetylene and now with a mig, it's childs play - and just about any mig will do! I didn't want to put out $900.00 a the time, so I bought a CHEAP chinese mig :shocking:for $170.00 and have had it for 3 years, no hick-ups and it's welded many patch panels, quarter panels and even square tubing. While I'm not saying I too wouldn't like a Lincoln, I don't think it's the be all - end all and I certianly think there's better ways to spend you first grand on tools!:thumbup:
For a grand you could get a cheapy mig, some handtools (snips, hammers, dollies), a vice, anvil (the RR tie!) a small break, grinder (hand and bench), etc!! Then, if the kid is really into it, and see's the value in it, he can go ahead and buy the best.
And I don't always go for the cheap stuff - my compressor and lift get more use so I didn't skimp on them!:beer:

For about a grand, you can get a good mig (HH 187, $600), good handtools ($100), a decent vice ($50 if you look around, no point paying for a new vise), grinders $100 for a hand one, and $100 for a good wilton bench grinder. That's 950. You can get a cheap HF brake for around $100. $1050 and you can have good tools, why buy crap (other than the hf brake at least)?

I don't care what you say, Hobart, Miller, or Lincoln will blow any cheap mig out of the water. I don't know how many guys have said that and tried my Hobart, and ended up with one a month later.

[BrianAltenhofel]

I can't belive you guys are so hoity-toity! :pimpflash Don't tell me if it's not a major brand name it isn't worth looking at! Maybe some people can't afford, don't need, aren't swayed by the brand-name stuff!:spit: I grew up in a body shop where EVERYRHING was done with Oxy-Acetylene and now with a mig, it's childs play - and just about any mig will do! I didn't want to put out $900.00 a the time, so I bought a CHEAP chinese mig :shocking:for $170.00 and have had it for 3 years, no hick-ups and it's welded many patch panels, quarter panels and even square tubing. While I'm not saying I too wouldn't like a Lincoln, I don't think it's the be all - end all and I certianly think there's better ways to spend you first grand on tools!:thumbup:
For a grand you could get a cheapy mig, some handtools (snips, hammers, dollies), a vice, anvil (the RR tie!) a small break, grinder (hand and bench), etc!! Then, if the kid is really into it, and see's the value in it, he can go ahead and buy the best.
And I don't always go for the cheap stuff - my compressor and lift get more use so I didn't skimp on them!:beer:

I somewhat agree, and at the same time I don't.

I can't afford to have all SO, C-Man, SK, and Mac tools, and for simple hand tools I don't see much of a difference. I have a free Marquette MIG, and it has served well until I got ready to weld a roll cage. For that, I borrowed a friend's Hobart. Why? The Marquette would overheat after 9 tack welds or 1 2" bead - the Hobart had no problem with beads and I never got it to overheat. Would I like to get a Hobart, Lincoln, or Miller (my preference, actually)? Yes. Can I afford it? No. Do I need it? Probably soon, but with the accounting department's approval I hope.

I don't mind going to HF for the consumable stuff (cut off wheels for the grinder) simply because a 10 pack of wheels that last down to the arbor for $7 sure beats one Dewalt wheel that lasts all of 10 seconds before shattering for $3. So I usually buy $70 to $80 of cut off wheels when I go to OKC. Would I buy anything else from HF? Hell no! There was a lathe there this weekend that you could tell visually that it wasn't machined well. If its something that is going to get any use, I'm buying American unless someone can justify it to me otherwise. Plus, I hate seeing my dollar go overseas.

Just so you know, most of my tools are Stanley from Wal-Mart. I have some Craftsman, but only when they go 33-50% off at K-Mart. The Craftsman screwdrivers get used as screwdrivers; the Stanley's get used as prybars if needed. And by the way, I bought the Stanley stuff when I first started working on cars. I can see myself using a lot of Craftsman stuff, but I know I would never be able to justify Snap-On or any of the "upper" brands.

Also, I buy used where I can. I LOVE going to estate sales. You'll be surprised how many GOOD tools you can get for $50 or less TOTAL. If I can't buy it within the first couple of bids (after the starting bid was lowered), then I pass until the next auction.

[e-tek]

Again, my CHEAP Chinese Mig has NEVER overheated and I've welded with it for hours at a time! :thumbup:A quarter panel took me 2 hours to do and it never even sputtered. Yet, Ive used top quality ones that have binded more than once! Again, Lincoln, etc., are good - but they're not the only one's for every person!:beer:

[Thumper]

Seriously, where do you find a small section of railroad track? That sounds harder to come by than an anvil.

I live about 100 yards from the railroad tracks (through the woods) and when they replace the rails sometimes they just throw old pieces over to the side. They get pissed when you drag off a section longer than 6 ft. though. :bounce:

[fasteddie24]

I've got a Miller 185 mig. It's great. I also use propane/oxygen for cutting like someone else mentioned. You do however need a different hose for the propane, so be aware of that.

[Uncle Buck]

Seriously, where do you find a small section of railroad track? That sounds harder to come by than an anvil.

Easier than you might think, just start walking beside the track (best done out of town) and it should not take too long to start finding pieces of track laying next to the track discarded. Best pieces should be no more than a couple of feet.

[Rockwieser]

the only things I would change in your list for sure would be the welder....you know northern tool sells hobart welders right? I would go with that .its about the same price too.
And the compressor, I would go with a better brand.Personally I am going to go with the dewalt 200psi max 15 gallon stand up unit from home depot for 350. the other stuff looks pretty good.

[fourfeathers]

I bet that if you call and talk to the right person, that you could swing a package deal @ Northern. At least get free shipping on all.

[merlin]

The combo mill/lathe will limit what you can mill because of the small table size. Also, turning diameters may be reduced some except near the chuck.

They are probably okay for small hobby milling, but I think you would be better off holding out for better machines.

I bought a used Southbend Heavy 10 for 175 from a welding shop near home. It needed a major overhaul, mainly cleaning, repainting and replacing metal on the cabinet, and a few missing parts, but now it runs great and I learned alot about how it works.

There a good deals still around, if you don't mind used tools. Welders and such, definitely better off new.

Just my .01 worth.

Billy

[blackcube]

I wouldn't go with the combo mill-lathe unit. I wanted one until I used a friends. The experience was enlightening as to the tool's limitations. So I bought a pair of Atlas lathes, a 6x18 and a 12x36. Both units are from the 1940's and are good American iron. I got both lathes off Craigslist and for less than a Chinese crap 9x20 lathe from HF. For the mill portion I waited until a Clausing 8520 showed up on eBay locally. It's not as big as a Bridgeport but I don't need a phase converter and it's a lot more capable than the combo unit. Plus all of my 40-60+ years old American tools still have parts available and I don't have to wait 9 months for Grizzly or HF to get a part from China.

Sign up for some of the Yahoo groups specifically for the Chinese machine tools and you will learn that the first six months of owning a Chinese machine is spent fixing all the defects and issues those machines are equipped with from the factory.

Another big plus with buying good used machine tools is most of them have tooling with them. Figure you will spend 2-3 times the machine cost in tooling the first years and it never stops as your projects get more elaborate. I have $2k in all my machine tools and spend another $2k each year in tooling.

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

A small section of railroad track works great as an anvil.

So does a section of I-Beam...:thumbup:

http://i336.photobucket.com/albums/n345/comet_man_1965/Waterloo%20Boxes/I-beam_anvil.jpg

[madjack]

If you have any intention of painting anything larger than a wheelbarrow, save your pennies for a 2 stage compressor.
I started like you wanting good stuff for decent prices. Buy used and you can always trade up when the deals appear. By buying used you can always resell to the guy just starting out, and never lose a dime in the process. Plus rehabing old tools is a great deal of fun. That is in addition to the fact that old tools are generally better built than the newer stuff. I have WWII era lath, mill and band saw that are nearly indestructable and don't have $2K in all of them combined. The deals are there as said before if you can wait and be ready with cash in hand

[AR15Texan]

If you have any intention of painting anything larger than a wheelbarrow, save your pennies for a 2 stage compressor.
I started like you wanting good stuff for decent prices. Buy used and you can always trade up when the deals appear. By buying used you can always resell to the guy just starting out, and never lose a dime in the process. Plus rehabing old tools is a great deal of fun. That is in addition to the fact that old tools are generally better built than the newer stuff. I have WWII era lath, mill and band saw that are nearly indestructable and don't have $2K in all of them combined. The deals are there as said before if you can wait and be ready with cash in hand

I bought an Ingersoll-Rand 2-Stage 60-gal upright compressor from Northern Tool. I installed anchors in the floor and lag bolted the compressor to the floor with isolation rubber from Grainger. I then dumped almost as much money into a wet and dry air system as the compressor itself. One branch runs an filter/dryer stage followed by an oiler stage for air tools and the other branch runs a filter/dryer stage followed by a centrifugal separator stage, and then a dessicant stage (have yet to add this one) for clean dry air applications.

The compressor connects to the plumbing via a flexible 3/4" hydraulic line and an inline pressure relief valve. I added ball cocks at the compressor outlet and to the inlet side of both branches. I'm running all 1/2" black pipe plumbing rated for 300psi. All the air components are also 1/2" and rated for 300psi at 30cfm.

I also purchased, but have yet to install, an automatic drain purge solenoid valve with timer. I then bought a nice Ingersoll-Rand 1/2" impact gun 2135Ti.

[babzog]

A small section of railroad track works great as an anvil.

I agree , hard to find a section i can carry :)

That's why you buy a torch first! :lol_hitti

[shovel]

Again, my CHEAP Chinese Mig has NEVER overheated and I've welded with it for hours at a time! :thumbup:A quarter panel took me 2 hours to do and it never even sputtered. Yet, Ive used top quality ones that have binded more than once! Again, Lincoln, etc., are good - but they're not the only one's for every person!:beer:

e-tek, you are the exception to the rule. I've seen too many problems with the cheap chinese welders, and they can't be repaired. I'm not a Snap-on or tool truck queer, but I would recommend a name brand purchase here. Lincoln, Hobart or Miller if I bought new. My mig is an old Airco dipstick that I can't find parts for anymore. I'll cry the day it quits. Then I'll buy a Lincoln, Hobart or Miller.