View Full Version : Forklift Restoration


BackTracker
01-22-2012, 12:29 AM
Title should read " forklift restoration" Thanks to the Mods for fixing that one for me!




So I picked this bad boy up a couple days ago for a tidy sum of 1 grand and I cannot find one lick of information about it. Its a Clark forklift model it50n. I popped the "hood" and discovered an old mopar slant six with a cracked radiator looks to be a 225. So I soldered the crack and pressure tested it. I then changed the points and put new plugs and wires on it. I still need to run a compression test. But it ran when I picked it up. I'm trying to find out some info so I can restore and use the thing. Anyone have any ideas? I'm new to lifts, carbs, and mopars. Thanks!!

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/5a2f6163.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/86917eca.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/d08bc9ad.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/e3bb4054.jpg

Outlawmws
01-22-2012, 12:51 AM
Your going to have to post pics, as the CL ad is gone already...

The slant six should be a good choice for a fork lift. Lots of low end torque, and is a very reliable engine. Surprised to see an engine that long in a fork lift though, I'd have expected a 4 banger. Gas or prop powered?

trboxman
01-22-2012, 01:05 AM
Your going to have to post pics, as the CL ad is gone already...

The slant six should be a good choice for a fork lift. Lots of low end torque, and is a very reliable engine. Surprised to see an engine that long in a fork lift though, I'd have expected a 4 banger. Gas or prop powered?

Lots of slant 6s in old Clark forklifts.

BackTracker
01-22-2012, 01:26 AM
Pics Posted.

Does anyone know anything about this "slant 6" business. Sorry, it's before my time...

it would appear that there is a massive crack in the header and it's a common problem from my reading//googling skills. I'm not having any luck finding a replacement however.

Also, any suggestions for types of paint that can handle the rigors of forklift duty.

diesel research
01-22-2012, 01:53 AM
Oh ya, slant six, piece of cake.

They were built until 1987. A majority of them would be found in D100 pickup trucks. Obviously you can find them in various cars, vans, stationary pumps/gens, etc, but a majority were found in those dodge D100s.

Many were "225" or "3.7L" but other sizes were available in 60s/70s

For the exhaust manifolds, I would recommend going to an aftermarket 2 piece manifold. It complicates matters because they are designed for dual exhaust, but can be merged back into your stock pipes. I am not saying duals for any kind of HP reason, but with the shorter duals with only 3cyl on each "bank" you get less heat cracking and made of better alloys. Like the dutra duals (or another brand that replaces both sides)

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/armstrong225/duals.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa236/72polara/SuperSixDutraDuals1.jpg

http://www.dutra.org/doug/doug-sl6-exhaust/dduals-set.jpg

I have a stock one in the garage, but I'm pretty sure it's cracked and brazed all over.

BackTracker
01-22-2012, 02:12 AM
Wow! Thanks, That was educational. I googled "Dutra duals" and got an email for him. I shot him an email this evening. Hopefully he still makes these.

BackTracker
01-22-2012, 02:25 AM
Your going to have to post pics, as the CL ad is gone already...

The slant six should be a good choice for a fork lift. Lots of low end torque, and is a very reliable engine. Surprised to see an engine that long in a fork lift though, I'd have expected a 4 banger. Gas or prop powered?

It's gas powered, though I would love to switch it over to LPG like my little TCM. The TCM has what appears to be a Datsun 510 4 banger in it from 1983.

tatra
01-22-2012, 02:42 AM
early ones were mechanical lifters , later ones were hydraulic and were hard on cams........oil pump is external and requires the removal of the dist.......if the valve cover is all gunked up i would suspect a bad oil pump first as i have replaced a few and the oil was pumping up and splashing around the valave train in no time........one thing to be aware of is the t stat housing studs and bolts are notorious for breaknig off.......i would be very gentle removing them and even suggest heat before trying to remove the housing .........had great luck migging a nut on any part of the broken stud sticking out............i would also look into the mopar electronic ign kit.............loved the feeling of satisfaction getting solid lifters in spec and quiet..........great engine.......shitty ex manifolds.........

wrenchr
01-22-2012, 03:17 AM
My local scrap yard has some old mopars, if you need replacement exhaust manifolds I can get them for you?

diesel research
01-22-2012, 03:41 AM
early ones were mechanical lifters , later ones were hydraulic and were hard on cams........oil pump is external and requires the removal of the dist.......if the valve cover is all gunked up i would suspect a bad oil pump first as i have replaced a few and the oil was pumping up and splashing around the valave train in no time........one thing to be aware of is the t stat housing studs and bolts are notorious for breaknig off.......i would be very gentle removing them and even suggest heat before trying to remove the housing .........had great luck migging a nut on any part of the broken stud sticking out............i would also look into the mopar electronic ign kit.............loved the feeling of satisfaction getting solid lifters in spec and quiet..........great engine.......shitty ex manifolds.........

Every bolt on them is bad about breaking off lmao. I broke the cylinder head bolts off using my first toolset. A cheap kmart 3/8 ratchet and 6ft pipe. Ratchet was just fine.

I actually discourage using mopar electronic conversions on anything. They are too pricey and the ballast resistors just add one more headache to the system. You get rid of that ballast crap and/or points completely. You get a later model vacuum advance "electronic" stock reman distributor and wire it into a 4pin GM hei module (on external computer heatsink!!!!) you then wire in a later 80s ford mustang/f150 ignition coil and you are ready to rock and roll. No more leaking oil out of the stock coil either! Here is an excerpt from someone who did the switch to the dodge/ford/GM ignition (General MoFo?):

installed home grown HEI this eve first crank it fired and ran like a champ.. I dont know why anyone would stay with that crappy esc. I know it fires hotter. I dont have my windshield in yet as its a project truck.. i was in the cab and adjusting the timing yesterday and got bite by the esc, no biggy. well after installing the HEI coinversion ( been drinkin too) I was dfoing the same thing and BAM I got my dick knocked in the dirt... boys let me tell ya that home grown HEI bites hard... my truck cranks and hits everytime now.. I love it thankls to you guys for the info..
http://home1.gte.net/wgmumaw/Distconv/HEImodule.jpg

The advantage is just a reliable ignition system with power to fire under a wider variety of conditions. Not a fire breather, but easier to light off on a cold morning.

The cams changed in 80 or 81 to hydraulic. Either way, they are becoming more sensitive to late-model low ash oils, and these oils tend to wipe out cam lobes more often in the past 5 years or so. Diesel 15w40 has more zinc in it, but may or may not be too thick for your location?

You can run a larger ford oil filter on most of them as well. Fram interchange PH8A. Application 1980anything ford f150 for example. Pick a better brand than fram, but that is the general interchange.
http://ramchargercentral.com/swappable-non-mopar-parts/%27high-capacity-oil-filter%27/

tatra
01-22-2012, 04:03 AM
can't argue with the dr on his points [pun intended] but i do belive there was a special filter with a check valve for slant sixes due to their inherent draining position.........oh and chinese fingers are great for applying the intake , exhaust triangular washers on the mounting studs..........as for the mopar kit, i was thinking of the one with the complete dist, ign mod, , etc........as for the ballast resistor, having a spare piggybacked on the same bolt was something that was sop a lot of times for that just in case scenario.......but your ford gm dodge hodge podge is interesting.........

wrenchr
01-22-2012, 04:23 AM
I'm no mopar expert, not even close but couldnt you just get an electronic ign from an 80's era slant? Excuse me if I offended any die hards............. :)

diesel research
01-22-2012, 04:37 AM
Yes a spare resistor in the glove box or on the fender is very common. Not sure if it's the heat, the rain, or what that killed them.

Most of the filters have a anti-drainback valve these days. It's a silicone or rubber flap that prevents the drainback you speak of. Fords/chryslers commonly had sideways filters regardless of engines. You are right about wanting to make sure it has one, or you will get cold start tick and knock and wear.

There are a lot of propane slants in canada, I believe their government subsidizes propane or something to make it cheap. Likewise, several vendors north of us who sell propane impco parts for slants. Raso comes to mind.

tatra
01-22-2012, 05:14 AM
worked on lots of mopars with propane on the taxis i worked on in the 80's and there were grants from the gov. to convert over to straight propane , dual fuel wasn't eleigible..................if you do go propane , you will have to recurve the distributor..........

A_Pmech
01-22-2012, 11:07 AM
About all I can tell you is that it is HUGE for a 5k fork truck and the forks need to be replaced NOW! The heel of each fork is far beyond passing a fork gage test.

I would replace the lift chains as well.

Design-wise, it looks very similar to my mid 60's Clark CY-80, a design they kept into the mid 70's.

BackTracker
01-22-2012, 12:04 PM
About all I can tell you is that it is HUGE for a 5k fork truck and the forks need to be replaced NOW! The heel of each fork is far beyond passing a fork gage test.

I would replace the lift chains as well.

Design-wise, it looks very similar to my mid 60's Clark CY-80, a design they kept into the mid 70's.

So where does one find those parts? There is no email address for USA Clark I left them a message to the only contact # I could find but haven't heard anything back yet. And there is no dealer in Hawaii...I have the disadvantage of not being able to drive to the adjoining state :(

What is a "fork gauge test" and the heel of the fork would be the curve in the L shape?

It is enormous, I have been googling the hell out of the thing and found a few it60 it70 and it80 models so it looks like there's6,7, & 8k lb versions with the same motor and frame. I'm wondering if any of the hydraulics are shared. Obviously the counterweight, forks and mast are different but I wonder if a retrofit is possible...sorry, I know very little about lifts.



There are a lot of propane slants in canada, I believe their government subsidizes propane or something to make it cheap. Likewise, several vendors north of us who sell propane impco parts for slants. Raso comes to mind.

Ok I just Shot Raso an email, hopefully they will help me out with the propane conversion.

My local scrap yard has some old mopars, if you need replacement exhaust manifolds I can get them for you?

is it possible, or advisable to just weld the crack? or is it a smarter move to replace the manifold?

I shot an email to the only contact i could find for Dutro....we'll see what happens i guess.

early ones were mechanical lifters , later ones were hydraulic and were hard on cams........oil pump is external and requires the removal of the dist.......if the valve cover is all gunked up i would suspect a bad oil pump first as i have replaced a few and the oil was pumping up and splashing around the valave train in no time........one thing to be aware of is the t stat housing studs and bolts are notorious for breaknig off.......i would be very gentle removing them and even suggest heat before trying to remove the housing .........had great luck migging a nut on any part of the broken stud sticking out............i would also look into the mopar electronic ign kit.............loved the feeling of satisfaction getting solid lifters in spec and quiet..........great engine.......shitty ex manifolds.........

Is there a better model model oil pump to use than the stocker? Would putting the hydraulic lifters in save me from valve adjustments? Also, I would have to change the cam as well correct?


BTW you guys are great! Thanks!

chris142
01-22-2012, 12:07 PM
The slant-6 has almost a cult following. It was a great engine for it's time.

I have seen them in 1ton Doolys and even larger trucks. Never in a Forklift but forklifts are not my area.

My dad bought a brand new Valiant in 68 and drove it for years. He parked it in 1995 due to oil fouling spark plugs but it still ran up to then.

They slanted the engine to get the hood line lower in the early 60's.
The early ones had spark plug tubes. These tubes were sealed with O-Rings and these O-Rings got old and leaked oil. Easily replaced.

The distributer drive gear is Nylon. When it strips the engine stops running since the distributer is no longer turning. When I graduated HS in 1987 I worked at a couple auto parts stores and they always had the Nylon gear in stock and I sold many.

Valve clearance for the mechanical cam is .010 for the intake and .020 for the exhaust. They were noisey due to the mechanical cam and valve lash.

They offered a 170, 198 and 225 slant-6. I have only seen the 225 in person. They also had an aluminum block version in the mid 60's.

In the late 70's they added a 2bbl carb to them. I've never heard of the manifold cracking untill this thread.

Now that were talking about these engines I should go see if I can get my dads Valiant running:beer:..HMMMMMMMMMMMMmmm

wrenchr
01-22-2012, 12:10 PM
So where does one find those parts? There is no email address for USA Clark I left them a message to the only contact # I could find but haven't heard anything back yet. And there is no dealer in Hawaii...I have the disadvantage of not being able to drive to the adjoining state :(

What is a "fork gauge test" and the heel of the fork would be the curve in the L shape?

It is enormous, I have been googling the hell out of the thing and found a few it60 it70 and it80 models so it looks like there's6,7, & 8k lb versions with the same motor and frame. I'm wondering if any of the hydraulics are shared. Obviously the counterweight, forks and mast are different but I wonder if a retrofit is possible...sorry, I know very little about lifts.
Ok I just Shot Raso an email, hopefully they will help me out with the propane conversion.



is it possible, or advisable to just weld the crack? or is it a smarter move to replace the manifold?

I shot an email to the only contact i could find for Dutro....we'll see what happens i guess.



Is there a better model model oil pump to use than the stocker? Would putting the hydraulic lifters in save me from valve adjustments? Also, I would have to change the cam as well correct?


BTW you guys are great! Thanks!

Let me know if you want me to grab them for you, cast iron will require tig I'm pretty sure.

A_Pmech
01-22-2012, 12:38 PM
So where does one find those parts? There is no email address for USA Clark I left them a message to the only contact # I could find but haven't heard anything back yet. And there is no dealer in Hawaii...I have the disadvantage of not being able to drive to the adjoining state :(

Back Tracker, have a look at this PDF:

http://www.toyotaequipment.com/PDF/Fork_Maintenence.pdf

I would look for a Clark dealer in California and contact them for info. The Clark company now owned by the Koreans and they are in the process of destroying it.

BackTracker
01-22-2012, 12:44 PM
Back Tracker, have a look at this PDF:

http://www.toyotaequipment.com/PDF/Fork_Maintenence.pdf

I would look for a Clark dealer in California and contact them for info. The Clark company now owned by the Koreans and they are in the process of destroying it.

Are you kidding me, By the Koreans?!? Sigh... What is America doing to itself... I can't take much more of this selling out :shocking:


I'll give the Cali dealer a shot. Thanks.

gasjockey
01-22-2012, 03:50 PM
this would look just right in that old fork lift:)

trboxman
01-22-2012, 04:03 PM
Those crazy guys at Clifford....

tatra
01-22-2012, 04:04 PM
nothing wrong with the solid lifter style and i prefer them........adjust them once until they make a litl emore noise , which was usually once a year on c ab so they stay in spwec for a long time.........as for a different pump , check your o'p first and then go from there and stock was all we ever used.........as for propane , impco model e convertor , 125 or 225 car with the original carb butterfly valve adapted to the impco mixer works best........lighter springs in the dist for quicker adv and then a screw is insatlled to limit toal advance.........will require an advacing type of timing light and tach..........personally if you are using this outside mostly i would stick to gas........

dieselmike
01-22-2012, 05:06 PM
the US. Canada's shoes?

BackTracker
01-22-2012, 07:10 PM
the US. Canada's shoes?

My Canadian wife enjoyed that :)

BackTracker
01-23-2012, 06:51 PM
Got a little bit of work done today...

After several hours of sanding it occurred to me that this thing is probably covered in lead paint...:willy_nil:sad::tard:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/1-24-11cars271.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/1-24-11cars266.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/1-24-11cars268.jpg

sporty_drew
01-23-2012, 07:47 PM
That is one cool looking lift! Good luck on the restoration

vssjim
01-23-2012, 08:26 PM
I think I still have a dist. gear kit down strairs from NAPA Balkamp. It has a gear, pin and washer in it.

jvitez
01-23-2012, 11:27 PM
Cool rig! A slant six 225? Man, I'm reliving my youth. Every gear head kid (like me then :))knew about those as they were everywhere. Dodge's were more popular in Canada than the the US then IIRC. It was an underpowered engine with an over-designed engine block: ie would last forever. Yup, a few niggles like the exhaust manifold, but wear out a block? Almost never.

Tatra: did you work for Spring Taxi? I remember when they hoovered up every Mopar with a slant six that they could find, as that's essentially all they used, for a long time as I remember. Dodge Diplomats by the acre. LOL! But I digress.

Good luck Back Tracker with your resto. The yellow paint looks great.

tatra
01-24-2012, 12:05 AM
actually colony propane ..........i remember spring taxi , still going i think out of tjeir original location too maybe?..........

USMCdodge
01-24-2012, 12:06 AM
this thread is going to be epic. if you need help with it let me know. im on oahu

BackTracker
01-25-2012, 09:50 PM
Update on Otis (Yes I have named the lift Otis) Otis received a "new to him" Holley carb today. I must say, having grown up working on all wheel drive twin turbo Japanese "supercars", that you you old timers had it easy. Today was my first experience with a carb and it had all of two bolts holding it on....two! and there's only 5lbs of pressure in the line...adjusting fuel air mixture...forgettaboutit. Anyhow I liked it a lot and Otis now runs like a champ. plugs, wires, points, oil, a filter, and a carb... Seriously, this thing is 42 years old and still going like its new. I cannot fathom the idea of a reliable Chrysler it's blowing my mind. A 42 year old Chrysler motor that goes like the energizer bunny, it's insanity!
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/21c26ca8.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/4cb4ed93.jpg

Otis also received a chair upgrade. 5 points to the guy who figures out what kind of car this chair came from.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/69636b20.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/fb304c7e.jpg

BackTracker
01-25-2012, 09:55 PM
I forgot to mention that this thing has a 4spd in it. How crazy is that.

diesel research
01-25-2012, 10:39 PM
I cannot fathom the idea of a reliable Chrysler it's blowing my mind.

http://www.allpar.com/slant6.html

Heavy-duty slant six engines used in industrial and some truck/bus applications used a double-row roller timing chain (but just one chain!), chrome-plated upper piston rings, and other features depending on service duty (polyacrylic valve stem seals, positive valve rotators, stellite-faced exhaust valves, and/or a high-volume oil pump)
...
In most years, the slant six used a forged steel crankshaft, moving to cast nodular iron in 1976 as a running change.


The engines went down hill the exact same time mitsubishis found their way under the hood....

BackTracker
01-25-2012, 11:09 PM
It's painfully funny that you said that as I learnd how to work on cars through the everyday torture that was a Mitsubishi 3000gt twin turbo. All wheel drive, 4 wheel steering, dohc twin turbo... Nightmare.

Dale B
01-25-2012, 11:10 PM
A little late , but there's a Clark F/L dealer in Chino , in So Cal. Spectrum Lifts , 909 -217-3004

warmpancakes
01-25-2012, 11:14 PM
mustang seat

kartracer55
01-26-2012, 12:12 AM
It's painfully funny that you said that as I learnd how to work on cars through the everyday torture that was a Mitsubishi 3000gt twin turbo. All wheel drive, 4 wheel steering, dohc twin turbo... Nightmare.

C'mon, the 6g72 block kicks ass. It's just everything else bolted to and around it that makes Mitsu's junk! :thumbup:

BackTracker
01-26-2012, 09:54 PM
A little late , but there's a Clark F/L dealer in Chino , in So Cal. Spectrum Lifts , 909 -217-3004

Thanks!

mustang seat

hat tip to you Sir!

C'mon, the 6g72 block kicks ass. It's just everything else bolted to and around it that makes Mitsu's junk! :thumbup:

Even the block is Shyte. Perhaps the biggest pile of it... I had more helicoiled bolts in those engines... And not from over tightening. Ok some of them were from over tightening. The rest however, especially oil pump, and intake bolts, would take the threads with them upon removal. WTF. Anything over 25 or so lbs of boost and the head begins to twist acting essentially like a blown head gasket while boost is present. Constant oiling problams and spun bearings. Shattered Xfer cases galore, broken drive shafts, snapped axles, and the forever present skipped teeth on the cam gears, broken timing gears, and subsequent trashed valves. GUH! if that weren't enough right around 550 to 600 HP or high rpm and the factory oil pump ring simply shatters. Yep a high quality car for sure. Of course it certainly wasn't designed to become the dragstrip car we turned them into but none the less. no thank you! I have gone through 6 or 7 of those bastards.

Let us not forget the clutch drop that due to the unequal length half shafts in the front caused torque steer that would make an srt4 blush along with a sideways sliding back end.

I loved the car like I've loved some crazy women, but I know neither of which is a good idea...and I have certainly learned better.

BAck on topic.

Otis got two wheels scaled of rust with a wire wheel and some sandpaper today then painted a nice gloss black. He also got a 3rd and fourth THICK coat of yellow paint. Also I have sent some emails back and forth to clark and got some info on the lift. Here is THE guy to talk to if anyone else needs info. JoeSwelnis @ clarkmhc dot com he gave me the original purchase order and the sales brochure. It turns out Otis was purchased in July 1970! that makes this a 42 year old lift! It's still going strong! BTW even the Brochure was made in America :) :thumbup:

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/4ec84a9c.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y129/GTsHawaii/16cc2a8d.jpg