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View Full Version : F936 Switch Lever


Merkava_4
01-09-2008, 11:25 PM
Do you guys happen to know what holds the switch lever onto the pawl? Is it pressed in to the pawl? I'm just curious. I have an F936 that I've taken the gear out to relube it, but I've never taken the pawl out since I don't know how it's held onto the switch lever.

On the F830, there's a screw that holds the switch lever onto the pawl; making the ratchet completely do-it-yourself serviceable.

I don't think I'll buy anymore 936 series ratchets until I find out how they're assembled.

krusty the clown
01-10-2008, 06:10 AM
uhh....sealedhead....lubed for life

eschoendorff
01-10-2008, 06:12 AM
uhh....sealedhead....lubed for life

Yeah.... I'm guessing that it's pressed on.

DavidtheDuke
01-10-2008, 07:04 AM
I've taken my 936 out. Nothing will shoot out, to be lost forever. At least not in my experience. It's just a high quality 36 tooth mechanism, is all.

arkracing
01-10-2008, 08:21 AM
Actually I think the replacement/service kit comes with a new Pawl that is drilled and tapped for the screw. It also comes with the new lever. I have a couple service kits that I ordered for an 830 but I think they are the same as the 936.

wrenchr
01-10-2008, 08:22 AM
The lever just sits inside the pawl, it is tricky to reassemble. I would just take out the gear and leave the rest alone.

wrenchr
01-10-2008, 08:23 AM
I will not even mess with the F80.

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 12:19 PM
I would just take out the gear and leave the rest alone.

That's exactly what I've been doing so far. :D

wrenchr
01-10-2008, 12:50 PM
I have rebuilt them, It can be annoying though. The rebuild kits come with the spring and ball bearing together and that make life easier. It is like half a ball with a shaft that goes in the spring.

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 01:06 PM
The rebuild kits come with the spring and ball bearing together and that make life easier. It is like half a ball with a shaft that goes in the spring.

I know exactly what you're talking about; I have one of those that came out of an F830.

I wish I had that special tool for holding the ball against the spring while the pawl is set in place on that separate spring and ball set up.

Getting back to the F936, I imagine the dealer has some kind of fixture for holding the ratchet still while he drives a pin punch through the hole in the pawl for pushing the switch out; but I have no idea how he assembles the new switch into the new pawl. :dunno:

wrenchr
01-10-2008, 01:20 PM
It has a notch that only goes in one way.

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 01:31 PM
It has a notch that only goes in one way.

Ah Ha! That's what I suspected! :)

So that means when the dealer drives the old switch out, it's toast; correct?

wrenchr
01-10-2008, 01:52 PM
No, it is not pressed it just rest's in there. The screws and the plate sandwich it all together.

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 02:24 PM
No, it is not pressed it just rest's in there. The screws and the plate sandwich it all together.

How would you pull the switch out then? I'm not saying I plan on doing that. . . I'm just asking. . . :)

wrenchr
01-10-2008, 02:33 PM
I would say just pull it apart. I like learning that way. lol

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 02:41 PM
Well, would you said earlier about the switch lever going in one way and not coming out without being forced out, makes perfect sense. :)

wrenchr
01-10-2008, 02:54 PM
I think they made this change from the F830 to reduce manufactoring price.

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 03:12 PM
I think so too and it's a shame.

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 03:40 PM
When I click on the links of this page, they don't load; do they load for you?

Snap-on (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/parts/pro.asp?group_ID=13498)

wrenchr
01-10-2008, 04:02 PM
Yes no issues

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 04:19 PM
That's weird. I click on the drawing to expand it and nothing happens, but when I click on the link you provided in Chris's thread, it loads no problem. :dunno:

wrenchr
01-10-2008, 05:09 PM
Yah got me on that one.

arkracing
01-10-2008, 05:56 PM
In the list of parts for the rebuild kit it lists a "Screw". Are you guys sure that the rebuild kit doesn't come with the pawl that is threaded?

I wouldn't push the lever out unless you have a rebuild kit for the ratchet. I have an Armstrong ratchet that is set up the same way. I too was curious - I had to "punch" the lever out of the pawl and now it won't stay in there. The lever just falls out (infact I think that I lost the lever, wonder if I can get a kit for it, or if Danaher will just want to replace the whole thing)

Why not just buy a kit or have your Snappy guy get you one. I ordered them directly from Snap-On and they were like $5 each. That way you can see what is in the kit - answers the question for you, but isn't very fun I guess huh?

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 07:35 PM
Actually, it doesn't need to be rebuilt because it's not even broken in yet. All I did was remove the cover and pull the gear out so I could install my own favorite grease. The only reason I was asking about how it's put together is because I'm curious and quite insane. :)

eschoendorff
01-10-2008, 07:57 PM
Actually, it doesn't need to be rebuilt because it's not even broken in yet. All I did was remove the cover and pull the gear out so I could install my own favorite grease. The only reason I was asking about how it's put together is because I'm curious and quite insane. :)

Okay... makes sense... I was going to ask why taking apart this ratchet is a huge issue if the things ain't even broken.

ImportTuner
01-10-2008, 08:58 PM
Actually, it doesn't need to be rebuilt because it's not even broken in yet. All I did was remove the cover and pull the gear out so I could install my own favorite grease. The only reason I was asking about how it's put together is because I'm curious and quite insane. :)

You have a favorite grease for ratchets? What is it ... please share ... :)

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 10:56 PM
You have a favorite grease for ratchets? What is it ... please share ... :)

I use this stuff here but I just lightly coat the gear with an acid brush and then butter the back of the cover plate.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/MACDRIVE/Sta-Lube_SL3311.jpg

ImportTuner
01-10-2008, 11:05 PM
I use this stuff here but I just lightly coat the gear with an acid brush and then butter the back of the cover plate.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/MACDRIVE/Sta-Lube_SL3311.jpg

Interesting .. and it's been working pretty good for you? I've been using CRC Synthetic Brake & Caliper Grease ... contains moly, PTFE & graphite ...

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 11:12 PM
Interesting .. and it's been working pretty good for you?

Ah man. . . you wouldn't believe how smooth it makes the ratchets feel. . .

It's a real creamy type of grease; not thick and it has a light amber color. If it only came in a smaller container though because I use so very little of it; a small tube would've been better.

Chris Adams
01-10-2008, 11:50 PM
Ah man. . . you wouldn't believe how smooth it makes the ratchets feel. . .

It's a real creamy type of grease; not thick and it has a light amber color. If it only came in a smaller container though because I use so very little of it; a small tube would've been better.

That's what I use.
It is also what appears to be in the Thin Profile Craftsman ratchets from the factory.

You can also use the stuff on car door hinges, door strikers, seat rails, etc.

It doesn't stain clothing like oil, grease, graphite.

So use it anywhere it may get on your hands, then onto your clothes, furniture, car interior.

I go through a can of it in about two years.

Merkava_4
01-10-2008, 11:59 PM
Here's a shot of the ratchet in question:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/MACDRIVE/TOOLS/DSCN1464.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/MACDRIVE/TOOLS/DSCN1458.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/MACDRIVE/TOOLS/DSCN1451.jpg