Common large metric sizes?

[Charles (in GA)]

Walked into a pawn shop today. He had a bin with about 15 identical Allen brand, USA marked 26mm long combination wrenches (satin or "rough" finish). Also had several K-D 32mm long pattern (polished?) combo wrenches, also USA marked, a some polished Thorensen 27mm long pattern combo wrenches (no country markings). Guy said he wanted $10 each for them.

I have metric stuff up to 19 mm but above that it is certainly hit and miss. Is the sizes I mentioned common in the auto world? I'll buy them if I think I might get some use from them eventually, otherwise its a $30 waste.

Charles

[Jared]

I have used 22 and 27mm a bit on my bike dont know about automotive applications

[OctaneMotorsports]

I use 24, 30 and 32 mm quite a bit.

[Crossthread]

Control arms on some 'yotas take 26mm - you should know that ;) . Also, some later yotas I know take a 32mm on the egr system. I also frequently use a 22mm on my car.

Guaranteed whatever size you don't have is what you'll need until you buy it then you won't ever need it again.

[Uncle Buck]

Walked into a pawn shop today. He had a bin with about 15 identical Allen brand, USA marked 26mm long combination wrenches (satin or "rough" finish). Also had several K-D 32mm long pattern (polished?) combo wrenches, also USA marked, a some polished Thorensen 27mm long pattern combo wrenches (no country markings). Guy said he wanted $10 each for them.

I have metric stuff up to 19 mm but above that it is certainly hit and miss. Is the sizes I mentioned common in the auto world? I'll buy them if I think I might get some use from them eventually, otherwise its a $30 waste.

Charles

Dicker with him, buy them cheaper, throw them on your tool pile, then figure out if you really need them! I say that tongue in cheek but I must admit it is really the way I buy my tools. If the price is good and there is even a remote chance that I might someday use it, or I could resell it for at least what I paid for it I will buy it more times than not. I have bought my tools this way for years and have yet to regret it. And I learned a long time ago if a price is smokin strike a deal then and there or the item will likely not be there tomorrow! :pimpflash

[TNToy]

22, 24, 26, 30, 32, 34, and 36 will cover the vast majority of larger metric fasteners. ;)

[v12man]

20,21,22,24,27,30,32,36,50

[chrenan]

For my Porsches 22, 27, 32 and 36 are the larger sizes I typically run into.

[blue302stang]

Both BMW and Dodge's with cummins, their fan bolt is 36mm. Its a 24mm for the rear shocks on Dodge ram 2500's.

[Danglerb]

27mm and 32mm were what I needed this weekend to get AT fluid hoses off the radiator cooler. Gotta say $10 each for the brands mentioned is way too much. I paid $3 for a 32mm at the swap meet, and $6 at Kragen for a 1 1/16 which is exactly the same size as 27mm.

The HF I go to has a bin full of I think 1 1/4 (about 32mm) Thorsen combo wrenches for $5. Recent Thorsen the name means zip about quality, but with wrenches this big I find it hard to believe there is a practical difference except for obvious flaws and the width etc.

[MAD]

The large metric sizes I have most needed in combination wrenches are 22, 24, 27, 30, 32, 36. I don't recall ever needing a 26. Some Mazda trans drain plugs are 23mm but I have never needed one anywhere else.

The 27mm and 32mm are very close to 1 1/16" and 1 1/4". I often used the closest fractional size for the large metrics before I had a good selection in large metric wrenches.

I actually found that same Thoresen 27mm wrench at a Big lots store recently for around 5 bucks. It seemed like a nice wrench and one of our VWs needs a 24mm and 27mm for the fuel filter so I picked one up for the trunk kit.

The 32mm K-D for ten bucks is a good deal. I would buy one even though I have not needed one in a long time. I have a coupe of open end 32mm wrenches but no combo or box wrench.

[GDA]

Worked on some old BMWs, Land Rovers and a Touareg and have used 21, 22, 24, 27, 30, 32 and 36 so far. Suspension work gets the most use out of the 21, 22 and 24.

[6skott]

I found this thread an interesting compilation that parallels my own experience working mostly with Honda and Toyota vehicles. The most popular size mentioned thus far is 32mm with 8 mentions, followed closely by 22mm with 7. Noted 6 times were 24, 27, and 36mm, while 30mm was noted 5 times. 21 & 26mm were noted twice each and a single mention was made for 20 and 50 mm. 21mm seems to be common only for lug nuts, where everyone uses a socket, hence it was not commonly mentioned.

Personally, like GDA, I concur with the results—21, 22, 24, 27, 30, 32, 36 are the first seven sizes one is most likely to need beyond 19mm. With the 21, 30, 32, & 36 mm it is more important to own a impact socket before buying a wrench as these are seemingly the most common sizes for removing lug and axle nuts.

So if you are just starting out, I would get all the sockets skipping the 27mm (more on this below) and buy the wrenches in 21/22, 24, 32 order before filling out in an as needed basis. I think 21 is more common on European car suspension while you find more 22 used on Japanese cars. Remember cars are like girlfriends and your mileage will vary!

Someone also posted that 27mm and 1 1/16 inch wrenches are virtually identical—very true. In fact, if you look at a table showing conversion for SAE to metric wrench sizes, there is no closer combination over a range of 4-50mm or 3/16 through 2 inches.

27mm = 1.0630 inch(es), which is 17.008 16ths of an inch, or 0.0005 (0.05%) smaller than a 1 1/16 wrench.

A typical piece of paper (0.003) is six times thicker than that difference! In contrast, the difference it is very small compared to some of the other “everyday substitutions” commonly used:

19mm = 0.7480 inch(es), which is 11.969 16ths of an inch, or 0.0020 (0.26%) bigger than a 3/4 wrench (0.7500).
8mm = 0.3150 inch(es), which is 5.039 16ths of an inch, or 0.0025 (0.78%) smaller than a 5/16 wrench (0.3125).
16mm = 0.6299 inch(es), which is 10.079 16ths of an inch, or 0.0049 (0.78%) smaller than a 5/8 wrench (0.6250).
21mm = 0.8268 inch(es), which is 13.228 16ths of an inch, or 0.0143 (1.73%) smaller than a 13/16 wrench (0.8125).

The first one is why your ¾ fits tight on some lug nuts, especially if they have a bit of corrosion on them. Likewise the second is why I often use a 5/16 wrench on 8mm bleeder bolts—they always collect a bit of corrosion so the 5/16 slides on and off easier! The last one is why you see so many rounded off lug nuts (makes me cringe!) because tire guys seemingly always use the far bigger 13/16 instead of the proper 21mm!

I’m not sure why, but the newest Toyota trucks went to a 22mm lug nut, which solves that problem because neither the 7/8 nor 15/16 fits!

22mm = 0.8661 inch(es), which is 13.858 16ths of an inch, or 0.0089 (1.02%) bigger than a 7/8 wrench (0.8750).

I can post or email the full table if anyone is interested. I do not endorse any of these “everyday substitutions”—if you want to maintain the integrity of the fastener and generate the most loosening/tightening torque, it is always best to use the tightest wrench/socket. If everyone did that then there would be no adjustable wrenches!!! Obviously, the rules change if you are stripping something out in a boneyard or find yourself in an emergency/midnight situation…

[Moose-LandTran]

Some common sizes and their uses:

20 - Various Pulley Bolts.
21 - various applications, many suspension bolts (control arms, wisbones etc..)
22 - Track rod end lock nuts on many German cars. Some suspension & engine bolts. Some wheel nuts.
23 - more commonly found on track rod lock nuts, but again some suspension bolts.
24 - fairly rare, some engine pulley bolts. Alfa Romeo Track rod lock nuts. some GM Oil filter housings.
25 - very rarely used. Cosworth YB-Series engines' Cam Pulley bolts.
26 - Various hub nuts on VW-Audi cars. Element-tye oil filter housings
27 - Light commercial wheen nuts, Diesel injectors.
28 - Commercial Diesel injectors.
29 - Chrysler hub nuts.
30 - Various hub nuts. BMW, VW-Audi, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, GM, PSA-Peugeot etc..
32 - Various Hub Nuts. VW-Audi, GM. Commercial vehicle Driveshafts. Many Fan clutches.
33 - Some commercial vehicle wheel nuts, certian Paccar Drop Links. (Pitman arm)
34 - Rarely used. some European hub nuts.
35 - Rarely used. some PSA-Peugeot hub nuts.
36 - Various hub nuts, VW-Audi. Volvo Gearboxes. Saab hub nuts.
38 - Rarely used, some hub nuts.
41 - Hub nuts, Alfa-Romeo, Lancia, Ford Sierra Sapphire.
56 - Hub Nuts - Ford Transit, Iveco light commercial vehicles.
65 - Hub Nuts - Ford Transit, Iveco light commercial vehicles.

Hope that helps,
Moose.

[Moose-LandTran]

24, 27, 32, 36 and 38 are also used for some element-type oil filter housings.

[JB740i]

I can post or email the full table if anyone is interested. I do not endorse any of these “everyday substitutions”—if you want to maintain the integrity of the fastener and generate the most loosening/tightening torque, it is always best to use the tightest wrench/socket. If everyone did that then there would be no adjustable wrenches!!! Obviously, the rules change if you are stripping something out in a boneyard or find yourself in an emergency/midnight situation…


One heck of a first post. Way to jump right in there.

[dreaminbimmers]

Some common sizes and their uses:

20 - Various Pulley Bolts.
21 - various applications, many suspension bolts (control arms, wisbones etc..)
22 - Track rod end lock nuts on many German cars. Some suspension & engine bolts. Some wheel nuts.
23 - more commonly found on track rod lock nuts, but again some suspension bolts.
24 - fairly rare, some engine pulley bolts. Alfa Romeo Track rod lock nuts. some GM Oil filter housings.
25 - very rarely used. Cosworth YB-Series engines' Cam Pulley bolts.
26 - Various hub nuts on VW-Audi cars. Element-tye oil filter housings
27 - Light commercial wheen nuts, Diesel injectors.
28 - Commercial Diesel injectors.
29 - Chrysler hub nuts.
30 - Various hub nuts. BMW, VW-Audi, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, GM, PSA-Peugeot etc..
32 - Various Hub Nuts. VW-Audi, GM. Commercial vehicle Driveshafts. Many Fan clutches.
33 - Some commercial vehicle wheel nuts, certian Paccar Drop Links. (Pitman arm)
34 - Rarely used. some European hub nuts.
35 - Rarely used. some PSA-Peugeot hub nuts.
36 - Various hub nuts, VW-Audi. Volvo Gearboxes. Saab hub nuts.
38 - Rarely used, some hub nuts.
41 - Hub nuts, Alfa-Romeo, Lancia, Ford Sierra Sapphire.
56 - Hub Nuts - Ford Transit, Iveco light commercial vehicles.
65 - Hub Nuts - Ford Transit, Iveco light commercial vehicles.

Hope that helps,
Moose.

Holy smokes! Is that all from memory?

[Moose-LandTran]

Yep.

Use all of them with the exception of 28mm and 29mm regularly. used to run a Tyre shop and did a fair bit of suspension work there, so got used to what sizes were common for hubs, wishbones etc..

Also, i live in the UK, so just about everything i deal with is metric. ask me common sizes and used for imperial socket. ain't got a clue..

[dreaminbimmers]

Yep.

Use all of them with the exception of 28mm and 29mm regularly. used to run a Tyre shop and did a fair bit of suspension work there, so got used to what sizes were common for hubs, wishbones etc..

Also, i live in the UK, so just about everything i deal with is metric. ask me common sizes and used for imperial socket. ain't got a clue..

That is a true sign of an experienced and efficient mechanic. I've been working on my own cars for years and am beginning a tech program this fall. Taking things apart and putting them back together has never been an issue. Being efficient at this is another story. I realize how efficiency equates to $$$ and can't wait to improve my skills in this area through experience. I've also thought about keeping a written log of difficult procedures and which tools and techniques work best; all in an effort to increase productivity.

Regarding the original post...
This is great info for somebody going into the business.

[Moose-LandTran]

i don't have a roll cab, just a cantilever tool box and cardboard boxes full of my other tools.

made life a lot easier to have everything i used a lot all together, and as i used tools on a job i put them in a tote tray or on the lift arm. so they were always in reach while i was working, and the ones i used were all together. of course, you have to reach for another tool sometimes, but that's nothing.

if you do this, you'll quickly get an idea for what you use the most and least, and what they're used for.

a written log is a good idea, but is often not practical. if you're working in an enviroment where the car is left with you all day, it's easier. where i was before it was largely While-you-wait. so efficiency and speed were key. if you want to see what sockets/wrenches you use the most, make a list of them and put a mark on there when you put them back. (why when you put them back? because it's when the job's done and you've got clean hands and time to do it.)

when you're working in a workshop environment it'll come easier to you. you'll be able to look at a bolt on a wishbone and think "ahh, that's a 21mm hex" and you'll straight away reach for that socket. just something that comes with time.

i'm only 19, so not the most experienced, and by no means a seasoned pro (or even a pro at all.) it's just something that comes with the environment.

[dreaminbimmers]

Thanks for the advice Moose. I'd venture to say that you have a lot of potential in this business field if you choose to stick with it.

It helps to have a great memory as well.

[Moose-LandTran]

Thank you.