The high price of body hammers on ebay

[martell06]

Used body hammers sell for rediculous prices on ebay these days. They have reached the snap-on level of ridiculous. anyone know where to a get decent set of wood handle body hammers or used ones reasonably. I had my eye on the eastwood set but they stopped selling the wood handle kit and the price has gone up $20 in a short time.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stanley-vintage-body-hammer-door-fender-panel-old-tool_W0QQitemZ260210962730QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item 260210962730

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Keystone-body-hammer-518-vintage-pecking-tool-fender_W0QQitemZ260210951077QQcmdZViewItem?hash=it em260210951077

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=15077&itemType=PRODUCT

[chad s]

Good, forged body hammers are not cheap. A cast, poorly balanced hammer will make your work a lot harder, and a tool that doesnt last as long.

First off, Id definately look into wood handled hammers. I have both wood and one fiberglass handled hammers, and I dont care for the fiberglass. It actually has less rebound than wood, but the rebound is also part of the striking pattern you use with a body hammer.

I would skip Eastwood, everything they sell is 20% higher than anywhere else. I think that body hammer set is imported. There is a pretty big difference from hammer to hammer. I have a few Martin hammers, and they are OK.

Please dont take this as a Snap On warship thing, but their body hammers really are the best. The heads are heavier than the Martin heads (Martin actuallyforges snap on heads now) and beefier, and The handles on the SNap On hammers are the best Ive ever used. They make the hammer VERY well balanced (you'll notice that different snap on hammers have different length handles to accoubnt for weight difference and keep the hammer balanced). Also, the hex flats on the Snap On hammer REALLY help in holding the hammer in a fashion that keep the blows of the face of the hammer dead on flat on the sheetmetal, which is verry important.

Id highly reccomend getting a Snap On BF611 as a start:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=73551&PartNo=bf611b&group_id=1763&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

You can probably get one on ebay used in the $30 range. I have a few other snap On hammers, but t5he 611 is now my go to hammer.

Also, whatever hammer you buy, dress and polish the face of it. I use a 40 grit flap wheel on an angle grinder to get a nice slight crown on the face, and then proceed to 120, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600 emery cloths, and then buff it on a felt buffing wheel on my bench grinder, to get a mirror finnish on the hammer. You will notice they work much better polished. A friend who is a long time body man tought me this, and woul will see it treats the metal better, and seems to work easier when polished. Also, keep your dollies nice and polished too, though not as important as the hammers.

[martell06]

I have used a snap on hammer and will agree that they are top notch. there's just no way to find a decent set of hammers for cheap. the used ones on ebay sell for almost as much as new martins. I guess I'll have to hit more traditional auctions to find some.

[brianpgriset]

Also, the hex flats on the Snap On hammer REALLY help in holding the hammer in a fashion that keep the blows of the face of the hammer dead on flat on the sheetmetal, which is verry important.

This is an excellent point. I'd try to get hammers with handles that are six or eight sided, not round.

Another place I'd look into is Dagger Tools --> www.daggertools.com

They sell a nice panel beater kit for $100. Wood handles, faces like mirrors, very nice. I've had my set for over 2 years and like them alot.

http://www.daggertools.com/m5_view_item.html?m5:item=CP07K

They sell all kinds of sheet metal tools at good prices.

[martell06]

that's a really nice set, i might have to pick it up this summer. definitely worth $100 compared to eastwood's set. thanks brian.

[brianpgriset]

I guess I'll just mention one more thing, according to the spec sheet they are "All tools made from medium carbon steel, forged, heat treated and mechanically polished for years of continuous service".

They are NOT US made though. I asked about this when they were at a swap meet. Still, nice stuff, good prices, seems to be well made.

[martell06]

just noticed you are from Columbus, i'm just east of cleveland

[brianpgriset]

just noticed you are from Columbus, i'm just east of cleveland

Good news! Goto Daggers website - they will have a listing of the shows they go to. At those shows, they sell almost all of their stuff from their booth at significant discounts. I think I got most of my stuff from them at about 25% off!

They start going to shows in the spring. It's all on the website, at the bottom of the main page. Infact it says they have a show in Detriot coming in early March.

[gotmud13613]

+1 For Snap-On Hammers they are pricey but worth every penny. I have been using them since the early 90's they were a gift from my parents. Back when they got me the set the price was at tad over $300 but now I see they are reaching almost $500 :shocking: :headscrat

This is the set I have http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=74209&group_ID=1766&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Like mentioned above keep them polished and the end results will be amazing. The short pick hammer is the most used for general tin banging but the shrinking hammer holds on to a close second. :beer::thumbup:

[chad s]

the shrinking hammer holds on to a close second. :beer::thumbup:

I have never been able to get a shrinking hammer to do anything but stretch and mark up metal. Neither has anyone I have ever met who has used or has one. Maybe on new, thinner metal cars are made with these days they work, but on vintage tin, they dont do anything but severely mark up the metal.

I shrink with an o/a torch and a damp rag (there are aruments that the damp rag hardens the metal, but it works fine for me), but I have been meaning to get/try a shrinking disc.

[brianpgriset]

I shrink with an o/a torch and a damp rag (there are aruments that the damp rag hardens the metal, but it works fine for me), but I have been meaning to get/try a shrinking disc.

I'd like to get one of these too. Alot of people say its the most controllable method of shrinking metal. Isn't it hard to control the sheetmetal with O/A?

[Jononon]

I'm a newbie where metal bashing is concerned, but my class uses Sykes Pickavant hammers, which appear to be well worth considering. Forged heads, hickory handles.

Fournier Enterprises (http://www.fournierenterprises.com/cart/home.php?cat=67) sells them, they're made in England.

[gotmud13613]

I have never been able to get a shrinking hammer to do anything but stretch and mark up metal. Neither has anyone I have ever met who has used or has one. Maybe on new, thinner metal cars are made with these days they work, but on vintage tin, they dont do anything but severely mark up the metal.

I shrink with an o/a torch and a damp rag (there are aruments that the damp rag hardens the metal, but it works fine for me), but I have been meaning to get/try a shrinking disc.

I also use a o/a torch combined with the shrinking hammer & shrinking dolly this method I only use on vintage tin, these new (soda can) cars just wont hold up to all the banging and most of the time it's cheaper to replace the panel than to repair it.

[Stanger]

Yeah, vintage hammer prices are going up. I almost hate to use my old Proto(but I love it so I still do). I was fortunate and found an 18pc Facom set locally for $300 new. The quality is VERY good on these. Well balanced, drop forged, great feeling hickory handles. Made in France. If you could find a set I highly recommend them. Otherwise I would go Dagger. They were my second option when I was shopping. A shrinking hammer is useless so don't buy one. They just mar the hell out of the metal. For shrinking, the disc is the only way to go. I have done O/A shrinking and played around with the shrinking hammer(bad) and I will only use the shrinking disc. I'll post pics of my hammers/dollies/slappers when I get home.
Grant

[wrenchr]

I like Martin hammers & dollies but these will set you back.

[chad s]

I like Martin hammers & dollies but these will set you back.

I use Martin Dollies as well. They are the same as snap on, just re-branded.

I have 3 martin hammers, but dont really use them since I got some snap on hammers. The difference in balance is night and day.

[chad s]

I'd like to get one of these too. Alot of people say its the most controllable method of shrinking metal. Isn't it hard to control the sheetmetal with O/A?

No, just go slowly. Heat an area till the red area is about the size of a dime, tap the area down just a bit, hammer off dolly, then cool it with a damp rag and you can feel it shrink in.

[chad s]

I also use a o/a torch combined with the shrinking hammer & shrinking dolly this method I only use on vintage tin, these new (soda can) cars just wont hold up to all the banging and most of the time it's cheaper to replace the panel than to repair it.

The shrinking dollies work when shrinking with a torch I guess, but dont you find that the shrinking hammer still marks up the metal badly? You can do it with a smooth face hammer, and hammer off dolly, and cool with a rag, get the same result, and not mark up the metal.

[kidney]

I have the Martin set, also. Except mine have the fiberglass handles. Sadly, I've never really used them, but hope to soon.

Martin Set (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153_12605_Tools_Mechanics+Tools_Automotive+Spe cialty+Tools)

[gotmud13613]

The shrinking dollies work when shrinking with a torch I guess, but dont you find that the shrinking hammer still marks up the metal badly? You can do it with a smooth face hammer, and hammer off dolly, and cool with a rag, get the same result, and not mark up the metal.

Yes, it does mark the metal up but, the marks are what shrinks the metal. It gathers the metal (molecules) and brings them together shrinking the surface. I always polish the marks out after with a 40g then 80g flap wheel.

[Uncle Buck]

I have hammers and dollies in a variety of brands I have gotten through the years; some Snap-on, some Proto, some Mac, some Fairmont I think I might even have one old Plomb body hammer. I really know little about the reputation of the Fairmont brand, is it junk? good? so-so? all my hammers are wood handles, most are octagon shaped and all came to me used but in good shape. So tell me about my Fairmont stuff since I really do not know much about them.

[brianpgriset]

So tell me about my Fairmont stuff since I really do not know much about them.

I have an old Fairmont 150G that I really like. Got it cheap at a swap meet and cleaned it up.

[chevy302dz]

Fairmont was bought by Martin and is a quality tool.

[Uncle Buck]

So who made the Craftsman stuff that was sold through the years? Anyone know?

[Uncle Buck]

bump.......

[chad s]

Fairmont was always good, I think they were a standard early on.

All of the current Martin line of farmont stuff is still well made, I just dont like their wimpy handles that make the hammers poorly balanced.