R&R the SBC with or without the trans?!?

[johnny1290]

:headscrat

I hope this isn't way OT, it seems like proper use of a tool(engine hoist) or technique to me, but if I'm wrong moderator please let me know.

I've swapped a couple engines before, and I kept the trans attached, thinking it was easier so I wouldn't have to fool with lining everything up and the torque converter shifting and whatnot. The trade off of course being that its been a real circus act getting that thing angled in there and adjusting the tilt and everything.

I have one of those hand crank engine angle tilter dealimbobs for the hoist. Anybody know what kinda grease or lube to use on that thing? I hosed it with WD40 :)



I thought this time since the trans extends into the engine compartment about 5 inches and the bolts are so easy to access :D, that I'd try just try to R&R the engine.

Now I'm thinking maybe its easier to remove them both together.

What do you think? In this circumstance do you think it'll be easier to R&R with or without the trans attached? Here are some pics to give you an idea of what I'm working with...it's a SBC in a '51 Ford if that helps any. Radiator is out and good room in engine compartment. It's kinda hard to tell from the pic but I can probably reach all the upper trans-engine bolts with a wrench or ratchet easily from above in the engine bay, or through my trick ez-access floorpan!!! :D

Oh and there is more room in the engine compartment near the firewall than it looks, I just didn't have a more revealing picture.

PS-the engine I'm putting in has regular skinny belts, and the old one uses the wider belts with grooves(from an '84 Camaro). Is it worth the trouble to switch to the wider belt? Easiest fix would be to just get a skinny pully for the alternator or buy one with it installed.

Thanks!!!

Sean

<a href="http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y244/johnny1290/84%20cheby%20engine/?action=view&current=IMG_2109.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y244/johnny1290/84%20cheby%20engine/IMG_2109.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y244/johnny1290/?action=view&current=trans.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y244/johnny1290/trans.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

[Merkava_4]

It's always been easier for me to remove the engine with the transmission attached; that way I don't have to bother with the bell housing bolts and torque converter bolts. Now if the engine was somehow magically already disconnected from the transmission, then yeah, it would be easier that way. :D

I know it's a pain having to tilt the (engine+transmission) down when trying to insert the tail shaft into the tunnel, but that's easier than reconnecting the engine to the transmission in my opinion. ;)

[johnny1290]

Thanks Markava4!

Yeah that's the thing, I already unbolted the torque converter ($@#*! metric on a Chevy!), and as you can see the bellhousing bolts are easy to get to, zip zip zip 5 minutes and they're off .

I'll bet its a pain either way I go, just gotta decide which is the lesser of two evils.

I'm thinking if I pull them both at the same time, I have to remofve the shifter, disconnet diveshaft, trans mount and jack the car up higher and etc etc then fool around with connecting the new engine to the trans when its out of the car (no fun) and all the tilting and wrangling in and out

if its just the engine, I'll have to fight to attach the trans and converter, minus all the other work.

Hmm that just seems like the least worst idea.

then again, I've been wrong before ;-)

[Hurricane]

i would just leave the trans in if youve already unbolted the torque converter and you have that kind of access to the bellhousing.

[johnny1290]

Thanks Hurricane!

I think I'm going to leave the trans in place. Using a good idea I got from the hamb, I'm going to cut the heads off some bolts and thread them into the engine so I have studs to guide the engine onto the trans.

What could go wrong?!? ;-)

[Chris Adams]

Yanking a Chevy small block with the tranny almost always results in breaking the distributor cap when the engine shifts and pivots.

Its still the easiest way.

When we did lots of them I always kept a spare junk cap to put on the dist. We would pull the cap up and forward with the wires on it, then put the junk cap on the distributor to take the impact when the engine or someone’s foot would hit it.
On big distributor (HEI) engines we would always just pull the distributor and put a rubber plug (freeze plug) in the distributor hole.
Then sometimes we would break the PS57 oil pressure switch which mounts next to the distributor.
Lots of times these get broken and nobody notices. Then they spray oil out on startup.

Aside from that, tranny in is the easiest but don't forget to put a plug in the back of the tail shaft as they always drool on the floor in the middle of the job.

We also tended to tape a plastic baggie over the tail shaft and tape it down.

[alkemyst]

getting the engine in and not enough meat to get the studs out...or too long a stud :)

It's one of those things...taking the time to remove the engine to bellhousing bolts makes for a 'car safer' pull. When you are dealing with the trans coming out too it makes it more difficult to keep from blemishing the engine compartment or radiator support/etc.

[Uncle Buck]

If the tranny does not need to come out I would leave it in the car. As your pics show you have easy access to the bellhousing bolts so I think it would be a cake walk. Having no knowledge of your intentions for the engine once it has been removed I would line everything up on #1 firing position so I knew where to stab the distributor back in post removal of the engine and remove the distributor then jerk the engine alone. I have never had to remove both at the same time; although I am sure I could do it if need be. It just seems that to take it all out together is far more work than it needs to be. My 2 bits!

[Tbonekilla]

That coolant overflow bottle is bad ass.

[joenero]

Leave the transmission in the car, everyone has pretty much stated the obvious reason and they're right. If I had to do it in that bay I'd put a piece of think cardboard in front of the radiator, unbolt the tranny, motor mounts, lines and wires and pull the thing out. BTW, if you're using a single belt system now stick with it, you'll be much happier with how much room you save and it's just easier to replace things in the future. If you've got both engines out at the same time for a little bit why not?