Need some garage heating ideas

[ChaoticBliss]

I am starting to think about garage heating options. I am basically looking for the cheapest option to heat my 18x20 garage. Unlike others, all I want is to keep the garage around 50 degrees throughout the winter. I live in Canada where it is pretty cold so we can have multiple days where the outside temp is 5 degrees. Anyone have any ideas on the best way to keep my garage at a constant temp all winter without breaking the bank?

Thanks

[DaveL.]

Insulate your cieling to at least R-38/walls R-19 and get one of these...
http://www6.mailordercentral.com/igcusastore/prodinfo.asp?number=HD30A-01
You can either propane or natural gas. I've got the HD75 for my 30 x40 and I keep it set around 50-55 all winter.

Dave

[MyMopar]

DaveL. do you have the propane version? If so, can you let me know how much fuel it burned through last year? I'm just curious as I was looking at that heater and other types. I figure PA and CT would be close enough for me to get a rough estimate on my costs

[logical]

Insulate your cieling to at least R-38/walls R-19 and get one of these...
http://www6.mailordercentral.com/igcusastore/prodinfo.asp?number=HD30A-01
You can either propane or natural gas. I've got the HD75 for my 30 x40 and I keep it set around 50-55 all winter.

Dave
this place has them and also a slightly less expensive but very similar Dayton unit. Just be sure to get a powered vent unit and either buy the vent kit they sell or use stainless components. Reznor has a new line of similar products out too that are prettier.

http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/heater-compare.shtml

[Roadster]

Insulate your cieling to at least R-38/walls R-19 and get one of these...
http://www6.mailordercentral.com/igcusastore/prodinfo.asp?number=HD30A-01
You can either propane or natural gas. I've got the HD75 for my 30 x40 and I keep it set around 50-55 all winter.


I second the suggestion of a Modine Hot-Dawg heater. They are made for residential garage service. I keep mine set on the lowest thermostat setting all winter long (~50F), and crank up the heat when I'm out in the garage working. I think mine is the 60,000 Btu model, which works well for my 3-bay garage (30' long x 20' deep x 11' high). It's the natural gas model, and it is vented to the outside of the house through the wall right behind the unit.

[mikeyr]

I third the motion for the Hot Dawg heater, I love mine it just might be the very best tool I have ever purchased for my garage.

I keep my garage at 55 all year long and boost it up when working in the garage.

[RonBou]

I also have a Hot Dawg heater....60,000 BTUs in a two car garage. And....MyMopar .... I run it at 55 degrees 24x7 and raise it to 65 when I am in there for a while (which is a lot). I also live it CT and last year I used around 200 gallons of propane for a cost around $500. Propane prices are rising along with gas. :sad:

Ron

[trovato]

The 55 degrees 24x7 adds a lot of expense. What is the real advantage of this? 60,000 BTUs will bring it up to temperature pretty quickly when you want to use the shop.

[DaveL.]

MyMopar - My Hot Dawg is natural gas. I really have no idea how much it increased my overall fuel bill.


trovato- 4 reasons I keep mine set at 50-55 24/7. (1.) I have,tools paints,car cleaning solvents,soda and bottled water in the shop. I like too keep these items from freezing. (2.) Keeping the temperature at a constant inhibits rust caused from temperature changes from forming on my cars,especially the Corvette. My old garage was not heated and this was a big problem.(3.) The wife sure likes a warm car when she goes out in the morning and so do I. (4.) If I get the urge to go in the shop and work its much easier to bring the temperature up if its 50-55 and not 32.

Take care.. Dave

[MyMopar]

As far as the temp of 50-55 24x7 I also believe that is related to the thermostat you buy. The ones I've seen, the lowest setting is 50*, so that would be the minimum temp you could keep it at.
I can vouch for the condensation on tools with temperature swings. I value the equipment I buy and anything I can do to protect my investments I will. Plasma cutter, Miller welder, Sata spray gun, hand tools and power tools and of course my vehicles! I will have mine set at 50* 24x7 and probably not even bump it up as I get pretty hot when working in the garage.

*RonBou, thanks for the info on heating costs :thumbup:

[ZRWON]

I am starting to think about garage heating options. I am basically looking for the cheapest option to heat my 18x20 garage. Unlike others, all I want is to keep the garage around 50 degrees throughout the winter. I live in Canada where it is pretty cold so we can have multiple days where the outside temp is 5 degrees. Anyone have any ideas on the best way to keep my garage at a constant temp all winter without breaking the bank?Thanks
See my post at this GF section for the least expensive heating source, IF, you are luckey enuff to find one: http://www.garagejunkies.net/showthread.php?t=1183
Also when checking possible replacements before I had my old REZNOR repaired, I found Northern Tool had best prices for Mr Heater and other brands I shopped.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatDsp?storeId=6970&N=122

[Quick GN]

I bought one of those Hot Dawg heaters last year, I live in Mississaua so I know what kind of weather you are expecting and I will second what others have said, the unit works perfect, keep it on low when your not in the garage and turn it up when you go in, it takes about 15 min to warm it up to T shirt temps. I bought mine from a local guy he's located about ten minutes North of Toronto just off the 400 here's the link to his site www.michaelstuartco.com

[imported_banzaitoyota]

Brew your own Biodiesel to run your pickup, use the waste glycerin to fuel a waste oil burner constructed from the plans on mother earth news

[RonBou]

The 55 degrees 24x7 adds a lot of expense. What is the real advantage of this? 60,000 BTUs will bring it up to temperature pretty quickly when you want to use the shop.

When I had the unit installed the technicians explained to me that I would use just about the same amount of propane keeping the thermastat at 55 or 50 because it takes more energy to recover from 40+ degrees keeping the stat lower. Made sense to me. BUT...with the fuel costs the way they are I am going to start the season off at 50 degrees and see what happens.

[DaveL.]

As far as the temp of 50-55 24x7 I also believe that is related to the thermostat you buy. The ones I've seen, the lowest setting is 50*, so that would be the minimum temp you could keep it at.


*RonBou, thanks for the info on heating costs :thumbup:

My electronic thermostats lowest setting is 40 degrees.

Dave

[DynoDave]

Does anyone know what the efficiency rating of that Hot Dwag is? Just curious how it stacks up to a residential unit.

To be that compact, the heat exchanger can't be very large, so my GUESS would be that it's not very efficient.

[ZRWON]

.

When I had the unit installed the technicians explained to me that I would use just about the same amount of propane keeping the thermastat at 55 or 50 because it takes more energy to recover from 40+ degrees keeping the stat lower. Made sense to me. BUT...with the fuel costs the way they are I am going to start the season off at 50 degrees and see what happens.

I agree...heard the same type story from my brother-in-law (owned a Lenox dealership) when I installed my heater several years ago. Never really checked to see if it was true, but I do keep my shop at 50 and warm it to 60 when I need to spend much time in there. Seems logical to me, esp since the time to warm it, and all that's in it, from 50 to 60 is much less that if I shut the heater off and then warm it from 40-45 the 60 degrees. Doesn't take much to maintain it at a constant 50 temp in our rather mild winters.

[john300k]

I hooked up this heater from Northern Tool...its 220volt...electric, no open flame or moisture from propane/natural gas...

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=595&R=595

[comquat1]

Has anyone considered a wood furnace? I'm contemplating what I'll do with my new house since I'm looking at going geothermal for my indoor heating and cooling. But when I asked the dealer what I can do for my garage he said it'd be too expensive to have an additional separate unit running off of geothermal so I might still have to be connected to gas. I'd like to "be off the grid" completely except for electric, so wouldn't a wood furnace possibly make more sense? Assuming of course you have a supply of cheap wood, don't mind feeding it every day or so. I would think you'd more than cover the cost of the unit in what you'd save ever the next few years with what natural gas is doing in terms of rising costs. Any thoughts?

[Roadster]

Does anyone know what the efficiency rating of that Hot Dwag is? Just curious how it stacks up to a residential unit.

To be that compact, the heat exchanger can't be very large, so my GUESS would be that it's not very efficient.

The Hot-Dawg is specifically designed for garage use, but has a residential rating. Brochures and technical information can be found at the following link...

http://hot-dawg.modine.com/

[RonBou]

Has anyone considered a wood furnace?

The only problem with a wood furnace is that you have to put it somewhere other than in the garage proper. Most codes won't allow open flame heating unless it is raised at least 24 inches to put it beyond the gasoline fumes. I like the propane heater mounted high near the ceiling as floor space in my garage is at a premium.....and I am lazy.....feeding a wood furnace or stove is more work than I want to do now a days.

[DynoDave]

The Hot-Dawg is specifically designed for garage use, but has a residential rating. Brochures and technical information can be found at the following link...

http://hot-dawg.modine.com/

Rats, no info on efficiency.

[danski0224]

Rats, no info on efficiency.

If it uses metal for the flue, efficiency will be 80%.

If it uses PVC and if it has a condensate drain, it will be 90% or higher.

Some manufacturers offer 2 stage units. Other options like sealed combustion or stainless heat exchangers may be offered.

For those that work with solvents, paints, or create lots of dust in the garage when it is heated, a sealed combustion unit is recommended. A stainless heat exchanger is the ticket for corrosive environments.

[krooser]

This is what I use...it's like working under the sun...no noise, no drafts.... www.superiorradiant.com Lots of other manufactureres, too.

They come in several sizes...natural or LP gas...I have a 80K X 30 ft unit. My shop is 1500. sq. ft. with 10' ceilings in 1000 sq. ft. and a 18' ceiling in the other section.

Right now I'm closing off the high ceiling part (that's where my lift is) and will just heat my fabrication area. I'm building a sliding door that I can open to heat, and use, the other part.

The top pic is that of an RE (residential unit)..I think it comes in 30K btu and 45K btu sizes...10' long...works with low ceilings...has ONE flue hook-up for both inlet air and exhaust gas. look close and you will see the radiant tube is actually U-shaped...a total of 20' long in a ten foot section. EZ to install.

The other is a UAMA unit....available in longer sections...can be made in a 90 degree or even a U-shape.

It took us about four hours to assemble and install this heater last winter. Pretty EZ to do....safe heat as it draws outside air for combustion.

[Quick GN]

Those work great for guys with high ceilings, but if they are mounted to low they can and will bake the paint right off a car..

[EZRhino]

Here's what I have...a 40k btu Mr. heater, I think I ordered it from Norther Tool. It is a radiant heater similar to the tube heaters already mentioned. It runs on natural gas and has a thermostat (and a pilot light). It doesn't have a vent, so you nedd to take that into consideration. After 15 minutes or so the garage goes from 40 degrees to 60 and is comfortable to work in. (My garage is approx 20x30x12)

Problems: Due to the pilot light, it leaves a slight nat'l gas burnt smell that drives my wife crazy (it doesn't bug me). Also, when it is running the smell is worse. Despite having mo venting/flue, it has not set off my CO2 detector yet even after having it cycle on and off all day. Also, the ceiling gets very hot directly above it. So I have a fan that blows air from behind the heater across the top of it, and that took care of that. It also circulates warm air around the garage.

I may sell this unit in the future and replace it with a hot dog or a tube heater. I'm happy with it for now though.

EZ

[krooser]

Those work great for guys with high ceilings, but if they are mounted to low they can and will bake the paint right off a car..
Mine is mounted on a 45 degree angle on the front wall of my shop...I believe you need about 20 inches of clearance directly below the unit...I've haven't had ANY problems with it and I have my parts washer, welding table, grinder and desk right below.

The RE unit is made for low ceilings....

The first three pix are garage heaters...the last is a sample of how I have my heater mounted.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a385/krooser/garagetubeheater.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a385/krooser/garagetubeheater3.gif

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a385/krooser/garagetubeheater2.gif

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a385/krooser/anglemountUAheater.jpg

[krooser]

Here's what I have...a 40k btu Mr. heater, I think I ordered it from Norther Tool. It is a radiant heater similar to the tube heaters already mentioned. It runs on natural gas and has a thermostat (and a pilot light). It doesn't have a vent, so you nedd to take that into consideration. After 15 minutes or so the garage goes from 40 degrees to 60 and is comfortable to work in. (My garage is approx 20x30x12)

Problems: Due to the pilot light, it leaves a slight nat'l gas burnt smell that drives my wife crazy (it doesn't bug me). Also, when it is running the smell is worse. Despite having mo venting/flue, it has not set off my CO2 detector yet even after having it cycle on and off all day. Also, the ceiling gets very hot directly above it. So I have a fan that blows air from behind the heater across the top of it, and that took care of that. It also circulates warm air around the garage.

I may sell this unit in the future and replace it with a hot dog or a tube heater. I'm happy with it for now though.

EZ
A small (30 to 50K) gas-fired tube heater will set you back between $600 and $800 bucks...not cheap BUT they are pretty economical to use, are vented and don't have a pilot light...all plus's in my book.

Mine cost $960.00, I believe, complete, including exhaust vent.

Some manufacturers say they save 30 to 40% on fuel compared to a forced air unit heater.

It took awhile for me to "warm up" to the idea of one of these units (pun intended). But when my "cheap' buddy replaced his woodburner wth a tube heater because of insurance reasons, I was pretty receptive to it.

One visit to his shop in January sealed the deal....you come in from a below-zero environment and into that sun-like warmth...toasty!

[87YJ]

For with tube heaters - How long does it take to warm your garage from cold (below freezing) to working temps?

[krooser]

For with tube heaters - How long does it take to warm your garage from cold (below freezing) to working temps?

You feel the heat in about 10 minutes. My shop (1500 sq. ft.) will heat up pretty fast in about an hour...warm enuff that the heater needs to be turned down.

These things heat the objects in the room so if you are working out there everyday (or even two days at a time) it makes more sense to leave it on...just turn down the t-stat.

Everything in the shop (including the floor) will become a "heat sink" and absorb the infrared heat....all your tools and machinery will be warm. You won't get "sweating" on cold metal objects as the temp changes like you do with forced air.

Have you ever sat down on a concrete wall, porch or stoop on a cool evening after a warm day?. The concrete stays warm long after the sun goes down...that's the same with radiant heat.

Nothing wrong with forced air. I had a brand new 75K unit heater in my shop, new in the box, for two years. I just couldn't bring myself to use it after I experienced the warmth of my friends set-up in his shop. So I sold it and bought the radiant heater.

[camarojoe]

What about the Vent-Free wall mount plauque and/or "blue flame" heaters I see advertised everywhere for 250.00 or less... I read about the risk of carbon monoxide, but I was thinking of using one set on low to just keep the garage above freezing when I am not out there.....They are actually designed for use inside the home, so i can't see how they could be as dangerous as some people have said they are... Are they safe to use from a fire-risk standpoint? I'm much more concerned about burning down my new garage than I am about carbon monoxide. What are the major downfalls? I have also heard without a vent they will create moisture... just HOW MUCH moisure are we talking about? If i use a dehumidifier in conjunction with the vent free plaque heater can I avoid any condensation/dampness problems?

[camarojoe]

Anyone?

[flozram]

Funny I was just at tractor supply looking t a blue flame heater
I could use everyones thoughts also