UCoatIt 'd

[GearHead_1]

I wish I had the energy to post a few pictures and post them. I just finished putting down 1600 sq. ft. of UCoatIt and it turned out very nice, if I do say so myself. :bounce: It took about 35 hours worth of labor over a 4 day period. I know, this thread is totally useless without pictures. I'll get around to it.

[REFLEXX]

yep!

[ringer]

Pics Or Ban!!

[GearHead_1]

O.K. Here's a few pics. Please be kind as this garage is very much a work in progress. :bounce:

The two bay section of this garage is 28 sq./ft. X 28 sq./ft. with 11 ft. ceilings. The single bay portion is 18 sq./ft. X 32 sq./ft. with a vaulted ceiling that is actually 21 ft. tall. The single bay will be receiving a 2 post lift. The foundation is to be finished in stucco that will be colored colbalt blue and one stripe to match this color on the wall. The lighting used is 12, 8ft. high intensity zero start lights and 1 four footer. The single car garage uses a raked set of door rails to accomidate a car in the air.

The garage is attached to an all brick home that is just over 5000 sq. ft. The driveways aren't in yet. There is a concrete shortage in this area and you can't get it.

Sorry for the poor photos. The 4th picture in this series is the closest to reality.

I like the way this product turned out though it was a more labor intensive than I had expected. This garage to date has never had a tire on it, so the initial prep was pretty straight forward. Only time will tell if it lives up to its advertised warranty.

There's no way to say this without it appearing that I'm patting myself on the back, but I'm pretty proud of this. I've saved for the past 20 years to be able to do this and this sucker is paid for!

[ringer]

Good job! That floor looks very nice, very shiny!

[REFLEXX]

Quick questions:

1. is it the same color / flakes in all the rooms? The photos show one to be omre tan then gray.

2. Whick color is it?

3. are those lines cut in the concrete?

4. how much for the 1,600 sqft???


thanks,

REFLEXX

[GearHead_1]

Didn't know it when I took the pictures but there is obviously something wrong with my camera. It's medium gray with the pacific blue flake package. As I noted above the 4th picture in the series is the way it all looks and the walls are really white. You can get a tan that looks just about like the way some of these pictures turned out.

I had the lines cut in the concrete instead of having them "struck". This makes rolling across them on a creeper or wheeled seat much nicer. The cuts have all done their job as the "controlled cracks" are right where they should be. The concrete has been down since February and there are no other cracks. The concrete is 8" thick in all places except for an 8 ft. band that is 12" deep where the lift is to be mounted. There is a ton of rebar in this floor. It's 1/2" rebar on an 18" grid.

It ran just under a buck a foot with the UGloss and UFlek kits added to the regular package. I did some steps and and walkway along with these two garages. It totaled about 1600 sq. ft. They gave me the aluminum oxide as part of one of the kits but I didn't use it and I'm glad I didn't. The flek adds just enough texture for my taste. I was afraid the aluminum oxide would make it too tough to use a broom on. I was told by one of the reps that from my description I wouldn't like the extra texture and I believe he was right.

I hesitate to say this because I don't want to offend those that have used other products and I know there are some pretty strong feelings about the best products. I used Rustoleums commercial garage product in the storage and mechanical rooms in my basement. Rustoleum's product is much less expensive and doesn't require multiple steps to install. It looks "about" the same as the UCoatIt product though the flakes aren't as large (I had to get the flakes from Rustoleum, they aren't included in the commercial product) and aren't covered by a shiney top coat. It doesn't appear to be quite as nice of a product as the UCoatIt product but the installation was much easier. Only time will tell if my gut feeling on this is correct.

[GearHead_1]

Just thought I would add one more note here. The pot life on the mixed product can be fairly short depending upon humidity and air temp. I was trying to be very thorough in my application and time became an issue. Having a friend over to help apply the product would be something I would do if there were a next time.

[REFLEXX]

Gearhead,

so what you're saying is that the Rustoleum stuff is like 90% as good as the U-coat-it and is easier to apply? Isn't is also considerably cheaper? and which Rusto stuff was it, there are several different types.

I've still got about a month before I apply, so I'm wavering al over the place.


REFLEXX :thumbup:

[GearHead_1]

You know, making a decision like this is subject to so much personal interpretation. As I mentioned Rustoleum is considerably cheaper and it takes quite a bit less time to get it down (as there are fewer coats/processes involved). As far as being 90% as good as the UCoatIt product..... I guess if I would have felt that to be the case I probably would have used Rustoleum a second time. I want to make it very clear that I don't think Rustoleum is a bad choice but for me UCoatIt seemed to be a better one. I didn't have lots of extra dollars to throw at the project but still felt the difference was worth my investment. I also mentioned that I had used Rustoleum's commercial grade product and then purchased some of their chips seperately (directly from the manufacturer) to put on it. I wasn't aware that there is more than one commercial grade Rustoleum product. I thought they had a commercial grade and a consumer grade.

I think that my overall opinion is that the AF coat in UCoatIt's process, which is the 3rd and 4th coats in my case is what makes the difference between these two products. I mentioned this earlier in the thread but only a couple years down the road will I really be able to know if the extra expense has been worth it.

By the way I've also helped put down Rustoleum's consumer grade product in a friends basement. It's probably a heck of a product considering the price he paid. He bought some kit at HomeDepot for around $70. It covered about 500 sq. ft. I don't think it would hold up well in an automotive environment.

[Pete MacDonald]

:beer: Great Job!! I put down the "U Coat it Flex AF" the last part of September on Concrete that was new in June. I agree with the assessment. Prep is everything!!! I used Medium Gray with the Granite flex. I didn't use the aluminum Oxide on the first (2 car) section of my garage. (1660 square ft total) and found out it is EXTREMELY SLIPPERY even when dry!
On the next 2/3rds of the garage I used the Alum Oxide. much better. Still easy to clean just not as slippery. By the way, My 31 * 52ft garage cost about $1440 in U Coat it materials. I will be sanding and re-top coating the first section and adding the Alum Oxide.
Respectfully submitted
Pete

[TonyHuntimerRaceHome]

My friend says to add a little bit of sand to the U-Coat-It to make it less slippery.

I can't remember which part of the process he said to add the sand. I'll have to ask. If I use this product, I don't want my wife breaking her neck.

Tony Huntimer
RaceHome.com

[GearHead_1]

UCoatIt will provide you with the aluminum oxide "grit" if that's the surface you are looking for. It comes as part of their kit.

[Hammerdown]

I have also used this product and it is holding up well. Like every "paint" job, the prep is critical. If you think the floor is clean enough, clean it again. The anti-slip additive is included. It textures the floor, so it will be harder to clean the more of it you use.

[86swb]

Looks like you did a great job. I like the thought of installing a drain in. Super job.

[GearHead_1]

Thank you! I apprecaite the compliments.

[dboat]

It looks like you did a phenomenal job :thumbup:

Dana xmas

[428]

Last night on "My Classic Car" was a segment on U-Coat epoxy. They made it look way to easy, the prep time that gets talked about here wasn't even mentioned. Although they did fill a large crack and hole.

[GearHead_1]

They sent me a DVD of the installation of the product including the patching information. It's likely the same one you saw. I watched this a couple of times prior to installaion. It just isn't reallity compared to actually doing the work. Maybe I'm just slow.

[dboat]

Last night on "My Classic Car" was a segment on U-Coat epoxy. They made it look way to easy, the prep time that gets talked about here wasn't even mentioned. Although they did fill a large crack and hole.

Kind of like how they can overhaul an engine or restore a car in 30 minutes... :wtf:

yep.
Dana

[G M]

Looks good, how does it hold up to floor jacks and stuff like that?

Do you have any more pics of your sidemount opener or a model number?

[GearHead_1]

So far so good though I slide my floor jacks around with a little more caution than I used to. I also put ply wood under my jack stands. I guess I just haven't taken any chances.

The Jack Shaft opener is a Lift Master LGO. It's actually designed for roll up doors or light duty grills but handles the panel door with ease. I've liked it alot.

[G M]

So I guess you have a gear mounted on the torison shaft? Is your torsion shaft solid or hollow. I was told I need a solid shaft if I wanted to use a jack shaft opener.

[GearHead_1]

So I guess you have a gear mounted on the torison shaft? Is your torsion shaft solid or hollow. I was told I need a solid shaft if I wanted to use a jack shaft opener.

Yes it has a gear mounted on the torsion shaft and dual carrier bearings. I don't know if a solid shaft is requisite but that is what I have.

[Wile1Coyote]

Looks Really Really good! Thanks for sharing your experience!

Wile

[bmwpower]

So I guess you have a gear mounted on the torison shaft? Is your torsion shaft solid or hollow. I was told I need a solid shaft if I wanted to use a jack shaft opener.

You are correct.

[GearHead_1]

About 3 months living with my UCoatIt. It has seen alot of Utah's harsh winter road salt and road grime. Cleans up very easily and looks brand new. Of course I have to get out there the very next day and mop it back to perfection. It's just part of being a garage junkie.

[BEECHFRONT]

:beer: I used Medium Gray with the Granite flex. I didn't use the aluminum Oxide on the first (2 car) section of my garage. (1660 square ft total) and found out it is EXTREMELY SLIPPERY even when dry!
On the next 2/3rds of the garage I used the Alum Oxide. much better. Still easy to clean just not as slippery. By the way, My 31 * 52ft garage cost about $1440 in U Coat it materials. I will be sanding and re-top coating the first section and adding the Alum Oxide.
Respectfully submitted
Pete


i just ordered the ucoatit kit with the flex and clearcoat ,what coat do you add the alum oxide to?

Bill