Toyota timing belt/cam/crank tools

[bmwpower]

I'm getting ready to attempt the timing belt replacement on my 2004 Sienna. Looks like I'm going to need a few tools to accomplish things (oh darn).

This is the procedure I'm going to follow:

http://home.comcast.net/~bmwpower/Sienna Timing Belt Proc_1.pdf


These are some of the tools I'm going to need. Trying to decide which ones to get. I will need a cam holding/turning tool. I will also need a crankshaft holding tool.

Here's a couple of the cam holding tools I've found to date:

Blue Point cam holder #1 on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Blue-Point-Camshaft-Pulley-Nissan-Toyota-Tool_W0QQitemZ180247104600QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item 180247104600&

Blue Point cam holder #1 @ Snapon.com:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=68862&group_ID=1552&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Blue Point cam holder #2 @ Snapon.com:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=68772&group_ID=1552&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Another cam holder on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180246014192&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008

Crank holding tool on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=360055916616&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=023

<...edit...>

Just found this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OTC-Variable-Cam-Spanner-Tool-Model-OT6613_W0QQitemZ170145583628QQihZ007QQcategoryZ356 25QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/products/6613_2427.jpg

Any pros/cons with either one?

Thanks!

[Moose-LandTran]

I just use Tip-exx (liquid paper?) and make my own timing marks.

[bmwpower]

I just use Tip-exx (liquid paper?) and make my own timing marks.

Not quite my problem. Need to hold the crank and cam for realignment. Cams are "spring" loaded and can crash into the pistons once the belt is off, so 60 degrees offset is necessary for safety. Once the belt is off, you need to bring things back into position before putting the new belt on...hence the tools....that and the crank nut needs to be undone to remove the damper.

[PoorOwner]

I don't have time to read the procedure but will this help stable your cams?

I bought this so I can swap cams without messing with the timing belt.

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/KD-Tools-Cam-Clamp-Timing-Sprocket-Holder.html

[W-Cummins]

So rent the tools unless your going to go into the business of repairing Toyotas full time you will use them once. That's what I did with the timing belt replacement on the wife's passat v6 I rented them from the place I mail ordered the belt kit from ( that way I got all of the tools too for the job not just the cam stuff ) Cost effective and even I'm doing it again in another 80k miles I still couldn't have saved a penny buying them vs renting them ( even 3 times)

William...

[bmwpower]

So rent the tools unless your going to go into the business of repairing Toyotas full time you will use them once. That's what I did with the timing belt replacement on the wife's passat v6 I rented them from the place I mail ordered the belt kit from ( that way I got all of the tools too for the job not just the cam stuff ) Cost effective and even I'm doing it again in another 80k miles I still couldn't have saved a penny buying them vs renting them ( even 3 times)

William...

Happen to remember where you got them from?

[PoorOwner]

That crank tool price is like a robbery wow..
do they not come off with impact guns?

[bmwpower]

That crank tool price is like a robbery wow..
do they not come off with impact guns?

Probably would. The thought of putting it back on with an impact hurts my brain.

[PoorOwner]

on the old toyotas we just put some blue loctite and crank it tight without slipping..

probably is different now these days what's the torque specs for that bolt on the V6?

I wonder what TNToy does..

[Moose-LandTran]

Not quite my problem. Need to hold the crank and cam for realignment. Cams are "spring" loaded and can crash into the pistons once the belt is off, so 60 degrees offset is necessary for safety. Once the belt is off, you need to bring things back into position before putting the new belt on...hence the tools....that and the crank nut needs to be undone to remove the damper.

Damn. what a pain in the ass.

it's times like this that i love VW-Audi cars. timing marks and rarely the need for special tools. early A4s are the best. 12 bolts and the entire front end comes off, leaving the whole front of the engine exposed.

[Mike83]

bmwpower,
Off topic, but where did you get that repair manual pdf?

[bmwpower]

bmwpower,
Off topic, but where did you get that repair manual pdf?

I bought it online.

[Merkava_4]

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis38220.html

[Merkava_4]

I'm still trying to find the crankshaft pulley holder that's in the PDF.

[SpiderGearsMan]

not a bad job , don't forget to the new water pump and oil pump seals
you just need the lock tools for the cams
I have used a bolt to hold them in place
toyota runs the 2 cams from one pulley , the spring load keeps a pre load so they don't move
be careful with the timing cover , the plastic gets brittle
toyota claims 120 k out of the timing belt

[SpiderGearsMan]

buy a new tensioner and pulley , and I would replace the idlers , I haven't done a v6 yoda timing belt in about 8 years , but they are really easy compared to 3.4 x gm , subarus , catera , saturn 3.0 - damn things move around on ya , even with an elaborate cam holder setup

[Merkava_4]

http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=1956

Here's another camshaft sprocket holder.

[Merkava_4]

http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=194&g=12

I found it!!!

[SpiderGearsMan]

that spring loading is valve spings

[grillmasterp]

After doing t-belts for 4 Toyota V6's & 1 V8
I will recommend getting the OTC 4754 universal pulley holder.
http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/products/4754_1848.jpg

This tool will hold the crank & cam pulleys for both 4.7 & 3.4 engines.


I would expect it to work for the Sienna as well.
I have the SPX/OTC tool that you posted the pic- haven't had a chance to use it though.

[EdNJ]

Unless you're removing the cam pulleys,there's no need to buy a pulley holder. Like SpiderGearsMan said,there's enough preload to keep them from shifting,I just set cyl #1 to TDC as per the manual.

The crank pulley bolt will come off with a decent impact gun. There's a trick to holding the crank without using a pulley holder. The transmission has a removable cover at the lower area,right by the exhaust. It's for access to the pressure plate/torque converter bolts when doing a transmission R&R. The pressure plate will have additional holes where you can place a prybar and lean it against the bellhousing.

I also use small clamps to hold the new t-belt onto the cam pullies,just to be on the safe side. No need to crank down on them,just enough pressure in case the belt tries to slip off.

[bmwpower]

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis38220.html

I'm still trying to find the crankshaft pulley holder that's in the PDF.

http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=1956

Here's another camshaft sprocket holder.

http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=194&g=12

I found it!!!


Thanks Merkava! Looks like I can just get the tool from SPX OTC. I will have to see if they have it in their regular catalog.

[bmwpower]

After doing t-belts for 4 Toyota V6's & 1 V8
I will recommend getting the OTC 4754 universal pulley holder.
http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/products/4754_1848.jpg

This tool will hold the crank & cam pulleys for both 4.7 & 3.4 engines.


I would expect it to work for the Sienna as well.
I have the SPX/OTC tool that you posted the pic- haven't had a chance to use it though.

Thanks Grillmaster. I hadn't seen that one yet. I will check it out.

[bmwpower]

Unless you're removing the cam pulleys,there's no need to buy a pulley holder. Like SpiderGearsMan said,there's enough preload to keep them from shifting,I just set cyl #1 to TDC as per the manual.

The crank pulley bolt will come off with a decent impact gun. There's a trick to holding the crank without using a pulley holder. The transmission has a removable cover at the lower area,right by the exhaust. It's for access to the pressure plate/torque converter bolts when doing a transmission R&R. The pressure plate will have additional holes where you can place a prybar and lean it against the bellhousing.

I also use small clamps to hold the new t-belt onto the cam pullies,just to be on the safe side. No need to crank down on them,just enough pressure in case the belt tries to slip off.

not a bad job , don't forget to the new water pump and oil pump seals
you just need the lock tools for the cams
I have used a bolt to hold them in place
toyota runs the 2 cams from one pulley , the spring load keeps a pre load so they don't move
be careful with the timing cover , the plastic gets brittle
toyota claims 120 k out of the timing belt

Thanks Ed! I'll need to get the van up on the lift and check things out. If I can get by without buying the crank too, so be it.

Spider, Yota says the belt is good for 90k. Is this 120k spec something new? Oil pump seals?...typo?

[Gabriel J]

I just spent the last two years working at Toyota dealership and never had to use any special tools to do the v6 timing belts. In the transverse mounted cars (avalon, camry, sienna) The Sienna as about as easy as they come.

The factory repair manual is always nice to follow, but thanks to the wonderful "flat-rate" system of pay at dealerships...a faster way to get the job done is always found.

If you haven't finished the project and want a few tips, shoot me a message on AIM = gabe207.

[bmwpower]

I just spent the last two years working at Toyota dealership and never had to use any special tools to do the v6 timing belts. In the transverse mounted cars (avalon, camry, sienna) The Sienna as about as easy as they come.

The factory repair manual is always nice to follow, but thanks to the wonderful "flat-rate" system of pay at dealerships...a faster way to get the job done is always found.

If you haven't finished the project and want a few tips, shoot me a message on AIM = gabe207.

I haven't started it yet. :) I have to limit downtime to a minimum since this is the family truckster and needs to be on the road just about everyday, hence my research before I start ripping things apart.

Sorry, not on AIM. Can I PM you here or email you?

[gibbon_guy]

I just spent the last two years working at Toyota dealership and never had to use any special tools to do the v6 timing belts. In the transverse mounted cars (avalon, camry, sienna) The Sienna as about as easy as they come.

The factory repair manual is always nice to follow, but thanks to the wonderful "flat-rate" system of pay at dealerships...a faster way to get the job done is always found.

If you haven't finished the project and want a few tips, shoot me a message on AIM = gabe207.

This man speaks the truth (I also worked at Toyota). The only thing some of the guys use is the YA9690 Snap-on tool but a 17mm? or 19mm? box wrench will suffice to move the cam as needed. If you don't replace the t-belt tensioner, you will need a press and a "grenade" pin OR a really huge pair of vice-grip pliers to take the tension off.

[Gabriel J]

I haven't started it yet. :) I have to limit downtime to a minimum since this is the family truckster and needs to be on the road just about everyday, hence my research before I start ripping things apart.

Sorry, not on AIM. Can I PM you here or email you?

Either one will work..Pm and I'll send you my email..Hopefully i'll point you in the right direction, and save you some time and money on tools you might not really need. -Gabe

[annoyingrob]

Did you figure out the torque for the crank pulley bolt?

I remember my 2JZ was something rediculous like 240ft/lbs. Quite difficult if you don't have an easy way to stop the crank from moving.

[bmwpower]

Did you figure out the torque for the crank pulley bolt?

I remember my 2JZ was something rediculous like 240ft/lbs. Quite difficult if you don't have an easy way to stop the crank from moving.

I think it says 162 lf-lbs. The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning towards biting the bullet and getting the tool.

When my 4Runner timing belt was done by the dealer last time, either they didn't torque it or they put it back on with an impact and screwed up the pulley and probably the crank to some extent. The crank bolt backed out shortly after the getting the belt done...not fun.

[SpiderGearsMan]

Thanks Ed! I'll need to get the van up on the lift and check things out. If I can get by without buying the crank too, so be it.

Spider, Yota says the belt is good for 90k. Is this 120k spec something new? Oil pump seals?...typo?

I go by the certified used car coverage which was 120 k
toyota is non interfearence , I would probably drive on it till it broke , hee hee

the oil pump seals are always gushing oil , and of course , do the water pump since you are in there
working in import shops make you a timing belt kook , as it is easy money

[Gabriel J]

On the Sienna he has, he can get a way with not replacing the water pump right now. That's certainly his decision though. I have done the 2nd timing belt (120-180k miles) on a few commuter '04 and up Sienna's and they never had water pump issues. The cam seals occasionally leak, but that is usually at the time of the second t-belt change.

The old 3.4l v6 in the T100, 4runner, Tacoma, Tunda....They were the ones that had the leaky water pumps. Luckily Toyota smartened up and decided using a gasket was better than silcone for a seal, and includes it with the updated water pump kits. If your first one leaked and you replaced it with the new gasket, it means you are pretty much set forever. Same thing with earlier Tundra 4.7 v8's.

[Moose-LandTran]

Whenever i do timing belt, i change the belt, tensioner, ilder rollers (if it has them) Hydraulic tensioner adjuster (if it has one) and the waterpump (if driven off the belt).

preventative maintenance is just that. and if the pump fails after 1,000 miles you'll kick yourself for not changing it. they're not that expensive anyway. (cheaper than cooking your engine)

[TNToy]

Siennas are easy.

The OEM belt for the V6's has a mark for both cams and the crank that line up with marks on the pulleys.

I don't use any special tools for this job, either. Zip the crank bolt loose, then run it back in until snug. NOW set the motor to #1 TDC, and remove the bolt. If you do it the other way, the impact pulls the motor backwards a couple of degrees.

Removal of the pulley can usually be done easily on a lift by placing a pair of prybars behind the pulley on either side, and gently walking it back and forth off the crank. You're up north, so it might be tougher with the rust-factor. A puller is occasionally necessary, even down here with zero road salt.

Reinstalling the pulley, I tap it into place with a deadblow and buzz it with the impact. After running the engine for a minute to double-check that it's in time, I hit it with the impact and then reinstall the splash shield stuff.

The back cam on a Sienna is the one to watch out for. If the motor is at #1 TDC, it wants to roll, and it's also nearly impossible to see the timing mark (a notch in the gear corresponding to a notch in the top of the cover) way back under the windshield, even with a mirror. Have a paint pen handy. Get everything set, and make a pair of marks on the cover and the gear for both cams. Much faster than aligning the factory marks.

If I'm not doing cam seals, no holder is necessary. Just a deep-offset 14 or 17mm (forget which) box wrench to turn the cams using the bolt. If you break it loose (never have) ... just retighten it once the belt is on, and the cam gear won't spin.

Some of our guys use a huge pair of channel-locks to hold the cam gears while backing out the bolts. I've actually never seen this chew one up, but I'll pass on that technique.

Honestly, since it's a non-interference engine, I don't set the motor to TDC anymore. When you shut the motor off, it naturally ends up in an at-rest position where neither cam will want to jump. I do the whole job there. Make matchmarks between the belt and the cam/crank gears. Pull the belt off. Transfer those marks to the new belt (count teeth)... and install it. Turn the motor to TDC to check time, move the belt a tooth or two if needed, turn it over twice to check the timing after the tensioner has had a chance to fully extend, and put it back together. Easy. :)

The tensioner takes 2 bolts from below to drop it out of the motor. Stick it in your vice, SLOWLY squeeze it down to the retracted position, and use an L-shaped allen key as a 'grenade' pin' to hold it in place. Ge the belt installed, and pull the pin.

[bmwpower]

Siennas are easy.

The OEM belt for the V6's has a mark for both cams and the crank that line up with marks on the pulleys.

I don't use any special tools for this job, either. Zip the crank bolt loose, then run it back in until snug. NOW set the motor to #1 TDC, and remove the bolt. If you do it the other way, the impact pulls the motor backwards a couple of degrees.

Removal of the pulley can usually be done easily on a lift by placing a pair of prybars behind the pulley on either side, and gently walking it back and forth off the crank. You're up north, so it might be tougher with the rust-factor. A puller is occasionally necessary, even down here with zero road salt.

Reinstalling the pulley, I tap it into place with a deadblow and buzz it with the impact. After running the engine for a minute to double-check that it's in time, I hit it with the impact and then reinstall the splash shield stuff.

The back cam on a Sienna is the one to watch out for. If the motor is at #1 TDC, it wants to roll, and it's also nearly impossible to see the timing mark (a notch in the cover visible through a hole in the spoke) way back under the windshield, even with a mirror. Have a paint pen handy. Get everything set, and make a pair of marks on the cover and the gear for both cams. Much faster than peeking through the spokes.

If I'm not doing cam seals, no holder is necessary. Just a deep-offset 14 or 17mm (forget which) box wrench to turn the cams using the bolt. If you break it loose (never have) ... just retighten it once the belt is on, and the cam gear won't spin.

Some of our guys use a huge pair of channel-locks to hold the cam gears while backing out the bolts. I've actually never seen this chew one up, but I'll pass on that technique.

Honestly, since it's a non-interference engine, I don't set the motor to TDC anymore. When you shut the motor off, it naturally ends up in an at-rest position where neither cam will want to jump. I do the whole job there. Make matchmarks between the belt and the cam/crank gears. Pull the belt off. Transfer those marks to the new belt (count teeth)... and install it. Turn the motor to TDC to check time, move the belt a tooth or two if needed, turn it over twice to check the timing after the tensioner has had a chance to fully extend, and put it back together. Easy. :)

The tensioner takes 2 bolts from below to drop it out of the motor. Stick it in your vice, SLOWLY squeeze it down to the retracted position, and use an L-shaped allen key as a 'grenade' pin' to hold it in place. Ge the belt installed, and pull the pin.

Thanks TNToy!

So this engine is a non-interference engine?? I thought it was an interference engine.

So you haven't removed the wiper assembly stuff when doing the job? (see PDF) Seems like the general consenus is it's a waste of time.

What has been you experience with needing a water pump @ 90k? How about idler pulleys?

Still up in the air as far as what parts I will have on hand to swap out. I can't leave the car apart to wait for parts (not how I like to work but it's the family truckster).

[EdNJ]

The tensioner takes 2 bolts from below to drop it out of the motor. Stick it in your vice, SLOWLY squeeze it down to the retracted position, and use an L-shaped allen key as a 'grenade' pin' to hold it in place. Ge the belt installed, and pull the pin.

Looking at that pdf I believe bmwpower has the newer MZ (3MZ) engine with the funky tensioner. The two bolts are now from the side instead of the bottom. I haven't done a Sienna but have done several ES330s,access to those bolts is pretty tight compared to the previous 1MZs. On 1MZs (and Toyota's UZ-series V8s) I can reinstall the tensioners without compressing and grenade-pinning.

[Moose-LandTran]

the "funky tensioner" is a hydraulic tensioner adjuster. it's best to replace them when replacing the belt. they come pre-tensioned with the pin installed.

[EdNJ]

the "funky tensioner" is a hydraulic tensioner adjuster. it's best to replace them when replacing the belt. they come pre-tensioned with the pin installed.

The previous MZ engines also employ a hydraulic tensioner,I guess I chose the wrong words to describe it ;)
I called it funky because of the bolt locations,makes access to them a pain in the butt. I usually have to use a wobble socket and/or a ratcheting box end to R&R them,meanwhile the previous tensioners required nothing more than a 12mm socket and a extension.

[TNToy]

So this engine is a non-interference engine?? I thought it was an interference engine.

So you haven't removed the wiper assembly stuff when doing the job? (see PDF) Seems like the general consenus is it's a waste of time.

What has been you experience with needing a water pump @ 90k? How about idler pulleys?

Still up in the air as far as what parts I will have on hand to swap out. I can't leave the car apart to wait for parts (not how I like to work but it's the family truckster).
Sorry about the confusion.

The 3MZ-FE used in 2004+ is interference.
The 1MZ-FE used in 98-03 was not. Which have you got?

The 3MZ in the Sienna/Avalon, and the V6s and V8s used in the Trucks are really the only interference motors made recently by Toyota that used a belt. With the exception of those, if it's an interference motor, it has a chain.

We don't quote pulleys and the water pump at the start. If we go into the motor and there's crusty pink coolant around the pump, we do it then.

I have yet to do a T-belt on a Sienna at 90 that needed pulleys. However, if it were my car, I would absolutely replace the pump and pulleys. Our service writers have a hard enough time convincing people to buy the belt these days, and many of them aren't planning on keeping a vehicle past 200K the way I do...

the "funky tensioner" is a hydraulic tensioner adjuster. it's best to replace them when replacing the belt. they come pre-tensioned with the pin installed.
I've never seen one go bad, unless it was compressed too quickly during belt replacement. Honestly, even in my own car, I wouldn't replace it. On other vehicles I'm familiar with (older Volvos) it was practically mandatory.

EDIT... Finally read the procedure BMW posted from the FSM. I suggest a definite alteration (besides leaving the cowl/wiper untouched and using a mirror-on-a-stick to see the rear timing mark instead) to the procedure: Remove the upper timing cover, THEN set the motor to TDC, then remove the lower cover, pulley, and the mounting bracket for the torque-mount at that end of the motor. Easier to see the big "O" and the notch in the crank pulley, than to try and align the tiny dimple in the crankshaft gear and the bump on the block once you've removed the pulley and lower cover.

[Moose-LandTran]

I've seen a couple go wrong. but i suspenct that they'd already gone a bit past their life expectancy.

it's common on VWs for techs to release the adjuster then later try to push it back in by levering the tensioner. the roller tensioner has a hex "hole" for an allen key so you can hold it in place during adjustment/installation. if they take out the pin and then find a mistake, it's common for techs to try and force the hydraulic adjuster's ram back in. this always results in a broke rollern tensioner arm.

i just like to be sure and take a number of precautions on my work. i'm a little "obsessive" about preventative maintenance.

[Jdovin]

I've seen a couple go wrong. but i suspenct that they'd already gone a bit past their life expectancy.

it's common on VWs for techs to release the adjuster then later try to push it back in by levering the tensioner. the roller tensioner has a hex "hole" for an allen key so you can hold it in place during adjustment/installation. if they take out the pin and then find a mistake, it's common for techs to try and force the hydraulic adjuster's ram back in. this always results in a broke rollern tensioner arm.

i just like to be sure and take a number of precautions on my work. i'm a little "obsessive" about preventative maintenance.

Thanks TNToy!

So this engine is a non-interference engine?? I thought it was an interference engine.

So you haven't removed the wiper assembly stuff when doing the job? (see PDF) Seems like the general consenus is it's a waste of time.

What has been you experience with needing a water pump @ 90k? How about idler pulleys?

Still up in the air as far as what parts I will have on hand to swap out. I can't leave the car apart to wait for parts (not how I like to work but it's the family truckster).

What was your outcome for your tool selection to stabilize the cam, I plan on using the same pdf reference you used. I am getting ready to start the same job. I plan on changing the camshaft and crankshaft seals, spark plugs, water pump, tensioner, and idler bearings. Did you end up removing the wiper assy, I think I will since I am going to include the spark plugs. Any feedback or shortcuts or lessoned learned would be appreciated.

Jim

jdovin@aol.com

[bmwpower]

What was your outcome for your tool selection to stabilize the cam, I plan on using the same pdf reference you used. I am getting ready to start the same job. I plan on changing the camshaft and crankshaft seals, spark plugs, water pump, tensioner, and idler bearings. Did you end up removing the wiper assy, I think I will since I am going to include the spark plugs. Any feedback or shortcuts or lessoned learned would be appreciated.

Jim

jdovin@aol.com

I bought this:

http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/products/6613_2427.jpg


And this:

http://i2.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/b4/a7/b1ed_1.JPG


Have not done the process yet. Still need to decide which parts I'm gonna buy. I think I may partly disassemble things to see if I can see any leakage for the pump or pulleys or seals.

[SpiderGearsMan]

buy a later one with a chain :0

[Agellius]

First of all I want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread, it's been a big help to me. I've never done a timing belt but I'm ready to give it a try.

A question: When the instructions say to set cyl #1 to TDC, that just means aligning the timing marks on the crankshaft and the oil pump body, right?

Thanks again.

[Gregster]

You can also use mini vise grips to hold the cams together in time.

[PoorOwner]

First of all I want to thank everyone who contributed to this thread, it's been a big help to me. I've never done a timing belt but I'm ready to give it a try.

A question: When the instructions say to set cyl #1 to TDC, that just means aligning the timing marks on the crankshaft and the oil pump body, right?

Thanks again.

I would use a screw driver inserted into #1 sparkplug hole to find where the piston is highest AND at the same time the timing mark is aligned which means TDC and all valves closed.

[Agellius]

PoorOwner: Thanks.

[oldtools]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-Camshaft-Pulley-Puller-Holding-Holder-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713Q2em153Q2el126 2QQcategoryZ35625QQihZ024QQitemZ370119424820

[Jiffycake]

Damn. what a pain in the ass.

it's times like this that i love VW-Audi cars. timing marks and rarely the need for special tools. early A4s are the best. 12 bolts and the entire front end comes off, leaving the whole front of the engine exposed.

Yes!!

I can change a timing belt on an early 8v in about 30 minutes lol.

[Agellius]

I changed my timing belt last weekend and thought I would contribute a few observations and helpful tips. First of all, I mostly followed these instructions: http://home.comcast.net/~bmwpower/Sienna%20Timing%20Belt%20Proc_1.pdf (thanks to BMWPower for posting them!). I would also recommend ordering the full Toyota service manual on CD. I got mine on ebay for about $12. It includes step-by-step instructions for removing the wipers, wiper motor, cowl cover, etc., which are not included in the
link.

These are not step-by-step instructions since those can already be found elsewhere. Just things I noticed while doing it, that might be helpful.

First of all I would say, if you're not a professional mechanic, do it anyway. That is, if you're reasonably intelligent and have experience figuring out how to do things yourself. It's not that hard and does not require very expensive tools. Just be careful about following the instructions to the letter.

All in all, I only saved a little bit compared with having it done for me by a mechanic, because I had to buy most of the tools. But it was still worth it because I learned how to do it, I know it was done carefully and correctly, and I won't have to buy the tools next time.

1. Breaking the crankshaft bolt loose

I bought one of the Toyota SSTs for holding the crankshaft while removing the bolt. It's the round one with bolt holes for bolting it securely onto the crankshaft pulley (I'll call it SST-1). (I ordered it here: http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=194&g=12) Then it has two more bolt holes for bolting another SST onto it.

There was a 30-day wait to order the other SST, so I skipped it. The second SST (SST-2) from diagrams I've seen, appears to be basically a bar that bolts onto SST-1 (see picture here: http://www.pbase.com/aw11mr2/image/108162011) (SST-1 cost $69 including shipping; SST-2 was going to cost about $40 if I had ordered it.)

So I went to Home Depot and bought a piece of steel that had a hole near the end. (It was part of the Simpson Strong Tie line of framing braces.) But since it was only about 1/16-inch thick, when I used it to try to break the crankshaft bolt loose, it bent like a piece of foil.

Then I went back and bought a piece of flat steel that was about 1/8-inch thick, and drilled a hole in it. But when I put my weight on the breaker bar, it bent too! So back to the drawing board one more time, and this time I bought a steel "construction stake" which was about 24 inches long and about 5/16-inch thick, from Lowe's. Again I drilled a hole in it, about 1/2-inch from the end, bolted it onto the SST-1, wedged it against the frame, and it held. (I also cut off about 6 inches because it was a little too long to wedge into the spot I had in mind.)

(It was funny: on one of my previous attempts at breaking the crankshaft bolt loose, I broke one of my ratchet extensions. So when the bolt actually did break loose, at first I assumed one of my extensions, or the breaker bar itself, had broken. I took the socket off and examined all the extensions and the ratchet, but everything was intact. I put it back on and heaved again, and again it moved easily. Finally it dawned on me that the bolt had actually come loose.)

Advice: Break the crankshaft bolt loose as the first order of business, before removing the windshield wipers and all that other stuff. No point in taking all that stuff apart if you end up not being able to get the crankshaft bolt loose. To get at the crankshaft bolt, remove the right front wheel, then remove the plastic flap (I think Toyota calls it an "apron seal") behind the tire. It's held in place with 2 10mm bolts. Then the crankshaft pulley will be staring you in the eye.

What I did was get about 24 inches worth of 1/2-inch extensions and a hefty 1/2-inch breaker bar. To be honest, I used a big-ol' torque wrench. (Some will say that's stupid, but I figured the bolt is torqued at 162 ft.-lbs., and the torque wrench torques up to 250 ft.-lbs., so how could it hurt it?) The purpose of the extensions is so that you can place the wrench beyond the fender, that way you have plenty of room to put your weight on the wrench without the fender and stuff (and the ground) getting in the way.

Anyway, the bolt is 22mm. So I used a 22mm, 6-sided, 1/2-inch socket ($6.99 at Kragen), and about 24 inches of extensions, and the big torque wrench. I sprayed the crankshaft bolt with Liquid Wrench and let it sit a few minutes. Then I attached the socket and the extensions, and set the end of the torque wrench on top of a jack stand, so that the wrench would be supported at approximately the same height as the crankshaft bolt when I put my weight on it. You should already have the SST-1 bolted onto the crankshaft, and the homemade SST-2 bolted onto SST-1 and wedged against the frame. Then put your weight on the wrench and that sucker should break free. For me it was not a sudden break (someone else said the same thing too). The wrench just gradually started moving, and like I said, I thought one of the extensions was being bent, but lo and behold, the bolt was actually loose.

NOTE: The bolt is threaded in the normal way. Sometimes people ask if it's reverse-threaded since it's so hard to break loose. It's not.

By the way, almost everything I did was based on suggestions made by other people all over the web. Many thanks to the people who posted them. The only part that was my own idea was buying the Toyota SST1 and making the SST2 out of a construction stake.

Don’t be intimidated by the idea of taking the windshield wipers, wiper motor, cowl cover, and all that stuff off. It's easy to do and takes very little time. You'll be glad you did it later on. Just keep track of the bolts and where they go. I used one of those plastic multi-drawer organizer thingies. As I removed bolts, I would write down on the instructions which drawer I put the bolts in for that step (drawer 1, drawer 2, etc.).

2. Timing belt tensioner (step 20(d) in the instructions)

The instructions don't show what the tensioner looks like. For a picture of it, see here: http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/toyotasienna20042006ntnw0133-16183712299.html It's near the bottom.

The bolts for this thing were blocked by the adjusting bracket that holds the power steering pump. This fact is not mentioned in the instructions. What I did was remove the bolt that attaches the adjusting bracket to the engine block. The bracket will dangle loose, but will stay in place because the adjusting bolt will still be there. Then, push the power steering pump down as far as it will go, so that it's out of the way of the bolts holding the tensioner on. Then take the bolt that you removed, and stick it through the adjusting bracket, thread it into the hole in the engine block, and tighten it just enough to hold the power steering pump in that position. That will enable you to get a socket on the tensioner bolts and remove the tensioner.

I bought a new tensioner for $49 (on Amazon), just in case I needed it. But as it turned out all I had to do was buy a vise from Home Depot for $20, and use it to compress the tensioner pin. Then I stuck a thin drill bit into the hole to hold the pin down while installing the tensioner (as explained in the instructions). I ended up returning the new tensioner since the old one was fine.

[There's more, please see the next post. I exceeded the allowable text limit.]

[Agellius]

[SECOND HALF OF PREVIOUS POST]

3. Installing the new timing belt

I put the belt on according to the instructions. But I could not make the line on the timing belt match up with the timing mark on the rear camshaft pulley. I tried and tried but whenever I got it to line up, the timing mark would move out of position. Eventually I figured, they must have put the mark in the wrong spot, and proceeded to install the belt with the mark off by one gear tooth.

IMPORTANT: The instructions say that once you get the belt and the tensioner on, turn the crankshaft clockwise two times, and then check to make sure the timing marks on the pulleys line up with the marks on the engine (step 23(g) in the instructions).

When I did this, I found that the rear camshaft pulley's timing mark did not line up. So I took it apart and put it back on. This time, though, I had a lot less trouble making the marks on the belt line up with the marks on the pulleys. The moral is, if you can't get it on right the first time, go ahead and put it on wrong -- then turn the crank a couple times, take the belt back off (and the tensioner too of course), and put it back on again. It may be easier the second time.

I read about one guy who just lined up the marks and didn't do the turn-the-crankshaft test. This is a big mistake in my opinion because it's the only way to make sure you've got the belt on right. If you don't you might be in for major trouble.

Make sure you turn the crankshaft TWO times, not just once. If you turn it only once, the timing marks on the upper pulleys will not line up regardless of how the belt is installed. When you turn it twice (or in multiples of two) they should line up at least somewhat close to where they should be. And if you have the belt on right they will line up exactly.

One other thing: The instructions say to line up the line on the belt with the timing mark on the crankshaft (step 22(i) in the instructions). This confused me for several minutes, until I realized that there are TWO timing marks on the crankshaft. One of them is on this thin metal plate which sits behind the gear that the belt goes on (this is the one you line up with the mark on the oil pump body). It's impossible to line up this mark with the mark on the timing belt, while at the same time keeping it lined up with the mark on the oil pump body. But there's ANOTHER mark, which is a little dimple on the front of the gear itself. This is the one you need to align with the line on the belt. It's hard to describe using words alone, but study the illustrations carefully and you'll see what I'm talking about.

4. Getting the crankshaft bolt off the SECOND time

The instructions tell you to put the crankshaft pulley bolt back into the hole, so you can use it to turn the crankshaft after installing the new belt (as noted above) (see step 20(a)(1) in the instructions). The problem is, when you use the bolt to turn the crankshaft, the bolt gets stuck again! How the hell can you get it back out? You can't use the SSTs because the crankshaft pulley isn't there any more. The instructions make no mention of this problem whatsoever.

I tried turning it counter-clockwise but all that did was turn the crankshaft; and the instructions say DO NOT turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise.

There may be a better way, but I'll tell you what I did. Some people suggest a crazy-sounding way of loosening the crankshaft bolt in the first place, which is, put a wrench on it, wedge the wrench on the ground or against the frame, then turn the ignition key and goose the starter a couple times (without starting the engine!). I was too scared to try this method for loosening the crankshaft bolt the first time. With that much torque on it things might break or go flying, or who knows what.

But in this case there was not a lot of torque on the bolt at all, so I decided to chance it. I put the socket on the bolt, using my long torque wrench. I turned the ratchet so the end of the wrench was resting on the ground. Then I turned the key just a smidge, just enough to make the starter tick a little but not turn the engine over. This turned the crankshaft just enough to loosen the bolt and I was good to go.

5. How the hell can you see the timing mark on the rear camshaft pulley?!

You can't, even with all the wiper-related hardware removed. You have to use a mirror. Some stores sell a mirror-on-a-stick, I think Pep Boys has them. I just used my wife's makeup mirror. It's a hassle but after a while you get the hang of it. You have to lift a wire harness up out of the way to see the mark on the timing belt cover (sort of a dimple), which the mark on the pulley is supposed to line up with. I suggest lining up the mark on the pulley, with one of the gear teeth, and line both of those up with the dimple on the timing belt cover, to make sure it's really in the right position.

6. Handy tools

I suggest buying this tool: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis38220.html for turning the camshaft pulleys, in order to adjust them to make the timing marks line up. They can't be turned by hand (at least not by my hands). (About $25 on Amazon.)

The other tools I bought were a torque wrench with a range of 100-250 ft.-lbs, for torquing the crankshaft bolt back on at 162-ft.-lbs. This also worked well for breaking the bolt loose since it's so heavy-duty and has such a long handle. (About $30 on Amazon.)

A gear puller to pull off the crankshaft pulley. Not the claw type that grips the edge of the pulley, but the kind that uses bolts which screw into the holes in the crankshaft pulley. (I put the crankshaft bolt into the hole so that the center bolt on the gear puller would have something to push against. Don't screw it in, just set it in the hole. It doesn't take a lot of pressure to get the pulley off.) (Less than $20 on Amazon.)

A Gates Krikit belt tension tester for when you put the v-belts back on. (I think it was less than $10 on Amazon.)

Also the vise and the SST-1 as mentioned above.

That's it for now. Sorry to be so wordy but I didn't want to leave out a detail that might have been helpful to someone. If you have questions feel free to send me a message.

[Agellius]

One other thing: When you're doing the turn-the-crankshaft test, ignore the marks on the timing belt itself. The only thing that needs to line up at this point are the marks on the timing belt gears with the marks on the engine. The marks on the belt won't line up any more once you have turned the crankshaft.

[1320stang]

Make sure you mark the old belt and cams and pulleys with white out or a paint pen. I put a timing belt on a Mercury Villager and the new belt was marked wrong. When I changed out the timing belt in my old '94 LHS, a buddy showed me how to use spring clamps to hold the belt on the pulley, the tension between the crank and the few degrees the pulley wanted to turn held it in place. I never found TDC or anything, just matched the marks I placed on the old belt with the ones on the new belt and went on. Now I will say I try to match the new belt marks with the old belt marks if they're visable, or at least try to mark the old belt against one of the dots on the cams or crank so as to try and put it in the correct position.

[35mastr]

On these motors,You dont need any of those fancy tools to do that job.

I did them daily for years with just a small straight pick,24 inch chain wrench.
10,12,14,21 mm sockets and basic air tools.Used factory belts,water pumps,idler and tensioner pulleys.

Job can be done in an hour or less without a lift.

The new factory belts have the marks already on them.So no need to mark anything.