Toolbox cleaning, ASE decal/plaque removal, slide maintenance??

Flash21 · Aug 29, 2008

Hey guys - I picked up a used KRL series box. It needs some general cleaning and decal removal.

What type of cleaner and method should I use to clean it up? Should I remove all of the drawers and liners and wash them with a mild dish soap? If not dish soap, what is a good cleaner that will cut the dirt and grease but be gentle on the factory paint?

Also, there is the ASE metal plaque stuck to the side of the box. Any tips on getting this off without damaging the paint underneath? It seems like it is on there pretty good.

Finally, after washing the drawers what type of lubricant (if any) should I apply to the ball bearing slides?

Thanks for all the advice!! :beer:

chammyman · Aug 29, 2008

just tipex your name on the plaque...

Merkava_4 · Aug 29, 2008

KLars1 said:
Any tips on getting this off without damaging the paint underneath? It seems like it is on there pretty good.

Finally, after washing the drawers what type of lubricant (if any) should I apply to the ball bearing slides?

For cleaning the box, take a cotton terry towel like a bathroom hand towel and get it soaking wet; then spin it out in your washing machine; that makes a damp towel. Now spray the dust down with washer fluid; that same stuff that goes in your car's washer fluid tank. Wipe up the dust and dirt. For any grease spots left behind, just wipe it down with WD-40 and a paper towel.

After the box is all cleaned up you can spray it down with some Eagle brand cherry scented spray-on wax. Just spray on and wipe off with a dry towel. The paint will get shiny quick.

For the drawer slides, wipe the dust off with another damp towel with some washer fluid. Are they dusty and sticky? If so, spray some WD-40 on a paper towel and wipe them down. After that, wipe them down again with a paper towel by itself to remove the WD-40.

Lube the slides up with Super Lube #21030. It's the official Snap-on ratchet lube. You just squeeze some on the slide members and spread it across the slide with you hand. You're gonna end up with a thin even coat across all the slide members. Now when you open and close the drawers, the grease on the slide members will work itself onto the ball bearings.

Frank Elson · Aug 29, 2008

hot air gun gets decals off - not too hot, just get the thing warm and they'll peel off.
Then WD-40 will get the residue off.

Charles (in GA) · Aug 29, 2008

Most likely, you ARE going to damage the paint when it is all over. Tool box paint is not the best and the adhesives in the decal have probably softened it somewhat.

Charles

Moose-LandTran · Aug 29, 2008

Charles (in GA) said:
Most likely, you ARE going to damage the paint when it is all over. Tool box paint is not the best and the adhesives in the decal have probably softened it somewhat.

Charles

I thought it was pretty hard-wearing. I mean it's powdercoat and they have to work in a relatively tough environment.

Flash21 · Aug 29, 2008

Merkava_4 said:
...that same stuff that goes in your car's washer fluid tank.
...
Are they dusty and sticky?
...
Lube the slides up with Super Lube #21030. It's the official Snap-on ratchet lube.

Thanks Merkava_4!

What makes washer fluid a good choice for the task? (just curious) Should I use it full strength or diliute it like some washer fluids call for?

The slides look like they were previously lubed with some light grease, it has attacted dirt and the grease has turned black. They slide OK...maybe a little 'heavy'. I'll take some pics when I get back home.

Where can you buy Super Lube #21030? It is available at the local auto parts store?

Thanks!!

Kevin

Flash21 · Aug 29, 2008

Charles (in GA) said:
Most likely, you ARE going to damage the paint when it is all over. Tool box paint is not the best and the adhesives in the decal have probably softened it somewhat.

Charles

Charles - I think I got lucky; I gently started peeling the metal plaque back and the adhesive came off quite cleanly without damaging the paint underneath. I'm glad!! :thumbup:

fourfeathers · Aug 29, 2008

Older boxes are not powder coated though.

I use 3m adhesive remover for sticker residue.

I use a carwash soap mixed with water in a spray bottle to clean toolboxes, and it works well. Spray it on the paint, wait a few seconds, and wipe off, or scrub, if needed.
Best to start at the bottom, so it doesn't create "clean" spots.

Merkava_4 · Aug 29, 2008

The washer fluid won't harm the paint because it doesn't have any harsh chemicals like ammonia or the kind of stuff that's in Simple Green and 409.

Simple Green is so strong, it will remove the black oxide finish if the tool is left in contact with it too long; I found that out by accident.

Use the washer fluid full strength; it's real gentle. I use it on my car because the car gets dusty sitting in the garage and I don't want to bother washing it just for some light dust.

The SuperLube is hard to find; I'll tell you that up front. I was able to get some from an industrial supply downtown.

I took the lube out of my brand new FLF936 and replaced it with SuperLube 21030; but it was already in there to begin with! :eyecrazy:

Flash21 · Aug 29, 2008

fourfeathers said:
I use a carwash soap mixed with water in a spray bottle to clean toolboxes

Without the thread, I would have chosen that actually. I was going to wash it like a car without the drawers out but I was concerned with water getting into little spots and rust.

Another question: The casters are pretty dirty from rolling around a dirty ship floor. How can I clean the rolling surface? Maybe some rough sandpaper?

M_4: What about small, hard to get areas like under the lip of the drawer where the lock n roll is? I need to clean some dust out out of some of the small corners.

eschoendorff · Aug 29, 2008

KLars1 said:
Without the thread, I would have chosen that actually. I was going to wash it like a car without the drawers out but I was concerned with water getting into little spots and rust.

Another question: The casters are pretty dirty from rolling around a dirty ship floor. How can I clean the rolling surface? Maybe some rough sandpaper?

M_4: What about small, hard to get areas like under the lip of the drawer where the lock n roll is? I need to clean some dust out out of some of the small corners.

Use pipecleaners

Moose-LandTran · Aug 29, 2008

Lock 'n' Roll comes out easy, on the right there's a V-shaped "spring" sticking out sideways, gently pull the far part towards you and slide it out.

Merkava_4 · Aug 29, 2008

KLars1 said:
M_4: What about small, hard to get areas like under the lip of the drawer where the lock n roll is? I need to clean some dust out out of some of the small corners.

Those Lock'n'Roll strips come out easy from the right end like Moose was trying to tell you. If you look at the far right end where it tucks under the drawer lip, you'll figure it out. I take mine out whenever I apply paste wax to the box.

lauver · Aug 30, 2008

Merkava_4 said:
The washer fluid won't harm the paint because it doesn't have any harsh chemicals like ammonia or the kind of stuff that's in Simple Green and 409.

Simple Green is so strong, it will remove the black oxide finish if the tool is left in contact with it too long; I found that out by accident.

Use the washer fluid full strength; it's real gentle. I use it on my car because the car gets dusty sitting in the garage and I don't want to bother washing it just for some light dust.

The SuperLube is hard to find; I'll tell you that up front. I was able to get some from an industrial supply downtown.

I took the lube out of my brand new FLF936 and replaced it with SuperLube 21030; but it was already in there to begin with!

Try this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/?tag=atomicindus08-20. Comes in 3 oz tube, shipped right to you.

Fedwrench · Aug 30, 2008

The easiest way to remove glued on trim, emblems, or similiar hard items is to take a piece of string and starting at one corner between the emblem and the surface it's attached to, work it back and forth as if you were sawing the emblem off with the string. the emblem usually comes off in one piece and any glue residue can be cleaned up with WD40.

chad s · Aug 30, 2008

The red is still not powder coated according to the snap on catalog, its an e-coat paint. The other colors are powder coat.

boiler7904 · Aug 30, 2008

Fedwrench said:
The easiest way to remove glued on trim, emblems, or similiar hard items is to take a piece of string and starting at one corner between the emblem and the surface it's attached to, work it back and forth as if you were sawing the emblem off with the string. the emblem usually comes off in one piece and any glue residue can be cleaned up with WD40.

Fishing line works well too.

Flash21 · Aug 30, 2008

chad s said:
The red is still not powder coated according to the snap on catalog, its an e-coat paint. The other colors are powder coat.

this box is cranberry for what it's worth...not sure if that is PC or e-coat paint

Moose-LandTran · Aug 30, 2008

Keep the plaque, change your name..

Toolbox cleaning, ASE decal/plaque removal, slide maintenance??

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