Who likes extra-long combination wrenches?

[Merkava_4]

I think they're powerful and sexy. :)

[wrenchr]

You are a nut!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[olds88]

Snap-on OEXL series wrenches are my favorite.

[Junkman]

Snap-on OEXL series wrenches are my favorite.


I agree...... only wish that I had a full set of them. Anyone want to part with some?????

[wrenchr]

I agree...... only wish that I had a full set of them. Anyone want to part with some?????

Yah I have SAE and MM I'll let you have em for $16.00 shipped:lol_hitti

[CAT_serviceman927]

I have some MAC XLs. They come in handy when a regular wrench just doesn't have the reach or you need just a little extra torque. I don't use them very often however. Maybe once or twice in a month.

[speed bump]

I like extra long double box ends personally. To much chance of slipping with an extra long open end.

[olds88]

I like extra long double box ends personally. To much chance of slipping with an extra long open end.

Sometimes a long open end is the only tool that'll do the job. Try changing the right upper control arm on a Lincoln Mark VIII without one.

[elect]

I love my snap on set don't use them all the time,but when I do they're usually the only answer.

[wilbilt]

I like extra long double box ends personally. To much chance of slipping with an extra long open end.

Agreed. The advantage of the XL length would be wasted on an open end, torque-wise.

[Junkman]

Yah I have SAE and MM I'll let you have em for $16.00 shipped:lol_hitti

Great....... send me the list of what you have and what you want. :lol_hitti

Sometimes a long open end is the only tool that'll do the job. Try changing the right upper control arm on a Lincoln Mark VIII without one.

Changing the upper control arm on any car can be a daunting task if you don't have the proper tools. I need to do the upper control arm bushings on my 1969 Cadillac Commercial Chassis, and I have been procrastinating for over a year now. It is one of those jobs that you don't know how long it is going to take, nor do you have any idea as to the problems that you will encounter. To make matters worse, the upper control arm ball joint has an eccentric on it to make front end alignment adjustments.

[russlaferrera]

I have a 5/16 to 3/4, Snap-on set in 6 point. Best wrench set I ever bought.

[PowderKeg]

I always reach for my OEXL Snappy's first, the regular length ones only when a second of the same size is needed, or access is too tight for the extra length.

[ossaguy]

I like the XDES long SO spline wrenches,which work great on normal fasteners.They are the longest wrenches I've found.I like how the walls are so very thin,for those tight clearance problems.They sure are spendy,though.That's why I only have two out of the set.I bought the 2 that I need....but would like to complete the set some day.
I would like to get the zero-offset ones someday too,if I could afford it.Sometimes,since they are so long,the 15 degree offset makes it so you can't get the swing you want because of hitting obstructions.

[Crasen]

Sometimes a long open end is the only tool that'll do the job. Try changing the right upper control arm on a Lincoln Mark VIII without one.


I used a regular length Gearwrench when I changed mine. The rear upper control arm nut was a little hard to get to but I can't seeing it being much easier because the wrench is longer. They sure did put that accumulator in the perfect spot to keep you from putting a box end on it though.

[Merkava_4]

Great....... send me the list of what you have and what you want. :lol_hitti



Changing the upper control arm on any car can be a daunting task if you don't have the proper tools. I need to do the upper control arm bushings on my 1969 Cadillac Commercial Chassis, and I have been procrastinating for over a year now. It is one of those jobs that you don't know how long it is going to take, nor do you have any idea as to the problems that you will encounter. To make matters worse, the upper control arm ball joint has an eccentric on it to make front end alignment adjustments.

The upper control arm is a piece-a-cake because you don't even need to take the spring out; the spring goes between the lower control arm and the frame rail. All you have to do is unhook the shaft bolts from the frame and then unhook the upper ball joint from the spindle; control arm is out. :thumbup:

[Junkman]

The upper control arm is a piece-a-cake because you don't even need to take the spring out; the spring goes between the lower control arm and the frame rail. All you have to do is unhook the shaft bolts from the frame and then unhook the upper ball joint from the spindle; control arm is out. :thumbup:

In theory, it should be that easy, but in practice, I have found that sometimes the parts don't want to come out that easy. One problem that I have encountered is that when you try to take the nut off the stud, the stud will start to spin. Then you need to take the spring out so you can put a spot weld on the end of the stud. These studs were pressed in with a spline fit in the hole, but sometimes the splines don't hold. I won't mention almost 40 years of rust accumulation that also leads to problems. I'm old, so I have earned the right to complain a lot. :lol_hitti

[speed bump]

Sometimes a long open end is the only tool that'll do the job. Try changing the right upper control arm on a Lincoln Mark VIII without one.

Thats what a crowsfoot and a serpentine belt tool are for.

[olds88]

Thats what a crowsfoot and a serpentine belt tool are for.

or an OEXLM18 :pimpflash

[a390st]

It seems like I never have enough room for an XL wrench. I hate using a short wrench, though.

[Merkava_4]

One problem that I have encountered is that when you try to take the nut off the stud, the stud will start to spin.

You mean the nut off the upper ball joint? I never had that problem. Isn't the ball joint riveted to the control arm in 3 places? I just drill out the rivets and replace them with the bolts that come with the new ball joint.

If I was going to take the upper control arm out, I'd want to go ahead and replace the lower ball joint since it's the one that's having to endure the load all the time.

[Stanger]

You mean the nut off the upper ball joint? I never had that problem. Isn't the ball joint riveted to the control arm in 3 places? I just drill out the rivets and replace them with the bolts that come with the new ball joint.

If I was going to take the upper control arm out, I'd want to go ahead and replace the lower ball joint since it's the one that's having to endure the load all the time.
This is going to go OT briefly...
I'm glad you brought this up. The UCA in my Mustang is bolted in, just as I would expect from a replacement. However, the bottom is riveted in and they don't sell bolt-in kits for it. You have to buy a whole new LCA just to replace the ball joints. The local Mustang parts supplier said that was because the load was too great on the LCA so they can't be bolted in. I want to just drill out the rivets and use good, hard strong hardware to bolt in a new one. You guys think its safe?

[olds88]

I used a regular length Gearwrench when I changed mine. The rear upper control arm nut was a little hard to get to but I can't seeing it being much easier because the wrench is longer. They sure did put that accumulator in the perfect spot to keep you from putting a box end on it though.

The one I did was VERY tight, I was glad I had the extra length. It would have gotten done with a shorter wrench as well, but if you got a tool that gives you a little extra leverage, then might as well use it!

[olds88]

This is going to go OT briefly...
I'm glad you brought this up. The UCA in my Mustang is bolted in, just as I would expect from a replacement. However, the bottom is riveted in and they don't sell bolt-in kits for it. You have to buy a whole new LCA just to replace the ball joints. The local Mustang parts supplier said that was because the load was too great on the LCA so they can't be bolted in. I want to just drill out the rivets and use good, hard strong hardware to bolt in a new one. You guys think its safe?

Buy the whole assembly. That's just the way it is. Same thing on the Lincoln LS. You have to buy the steering knuckle for the lower ball joint, and the UCA for the upper ball joint.

[Junkman]

In the 1960's, we could buy ball joints that came with rivets. We would heat the rivet red hot with a torch, and beat the hell out of it with a hammer. Never had one come out. A lot of the cars came with the non replaceable ball joints, and the control arm was replaced as an assembly. My 1969 Cadillac upper control arm is like that. They did sell upper ball joints in the aftermarket, but I don't ever remember replacing them. The official shop manual doesn't address this, since it wasn't serviced as a separate part. My 1963 Chrysler has screw in ball joints, and they take a special socket to remove and install. For some foolish reason, I never got rid of that socket. The 1960 Corvair also used a screw in ball joint. Many people ruin the control arms, when they don't know how the ball joint was originally installed. If you press out a screw in ball joint, the hole is enlarged, and the new ball joint will not stay in for very long. Aren't old cars a treat to work on???

[Danglerb]

I have HF in both SAE and Metric. Originally bought mine for working on under sink plumbing, but I really like the added torque and control the extra long wrench gives on tough jobs.

[olds88]

Aren't old cars a treat to work on???

Not looking foward to changing the water pump in my 1981 Olds Delta 88.... for the 3rd time... I don't remember where the last one I put in was made, but the ones I keep getting are JUNK. I'm going to order an ACDelco pump this time, but from the picture on their website it looks like the same crap... I'll find out soon enough.

To do the water pump on the 307 ALL the accessories have to come off, because they're all mounted on brackets that are all mounted on the water pump..... while I'm in there I'm going to get rid of the vacuum pump (doesn't work, the brakes get plenty of vacuum without it anyway), and the AIR pump (cat clogged up last year, welded in a straight pipe, the car's over 26 years old=no emissions inspection in NY, and no emissions inspection for any car in Florida!)

[DiStOrTiOn]

I really like the extra long wrenches. I've got a combination set, haven't used the open end yet, but I have been, for the most part, sticking to combos to save some dough. I use the xl's whenever possible, it gives me more room to put my hand, especially on the smaller sizes, not to mention the extra torque when you need it.

[paramudduck]

The extra longs are total life savers at times. I seem to use them as much if not more then the regular size wrenches.

Except for Gearwrenches my stubby set of them is wearing through the chrome from use. If it's a choice between taking twelve bolts out to get a cover plate off to reach one nut or reaching in with a stubby. Which would you do? Not enough room for standard or longs but the stubby just goes right in there.