Best way to cut .060" Alum. sheet x 16" ??

[hemi]

I scrounged a dozen 4' x 16' (.060" thick) sheets of polished diamond plate aluminum at scrap value to run around the perimeter of my pole barn walls and I want to cut them down to 2' x 16'. What is the best way to cut this material without distortion and hopefully straight? A metal cutting circular saw, electric shears, nibbler ???? Help me out guys....what do you think?
hemi

[Crawlin]

I would say shear, but I guess that wont fit in a shear I have seen. I would use shears, with some kind of straight edge template clamped down to keep it straight.

[rsanter]

find a local shop that has a shear that can do it or get a saw blade for aluminum and use a straight edge

bob

[Merkava_4]

An Ironworker would be the best way, but of course I mean the machine, not the superhuman construction worker. ;)

[Stick]

Quickest and easiest would be a circular saw with a guide. A normal wood cutting blade works fine for 1/8 (.060) aluminum.

[MXtras]

1/8" = .125"

For DIY, use a circular saw. Wear eye and hearing protection but it will rip right through it. I have ripped 2" solid aluminum bar stock lengthwise with a circular saw before - it works well. Use WD-40 or ATF on the blade to help keep the teeth from plugging up.

Scott

[trackwelder]

I worked for a guy installing aluminium siding and we cut it all with the blade mounted backwards to prevent tearing. I assume that you would want to flip the blade if you cut it with a circular saw.

[MXtras]

I advise running the blade in the normal orientation. I suggest a carbide tipped blade also.

Scott

[bomber]

+1 on carbine -- higher number of teeth would be better than lower -- go slowly until the saw tells you how fast you can go without aa great deal of chipping

[pirate]

If you have a shear that would be the best way but you can use a table saw with a fence (blade running backward) and get nice clean cuts. A bit noisey and wear lond sleeves as the chips are somewhat hot. This way is especialy good if you want long strips (16' versus 4') which I presume you would for making up pieces for around the perimeter. A fine tooth blade works best.

[Kevin54]

A good carbide tipped blade on a table saw will cut it. Feed slow. You will have to deburr it afterwards though. At work I have cut up to 1" thick aluminum on a standard Rockwell contractors table saw. The chips coming off are a little warm though, so long sleeves, a buttoned up collar, gloves, and above all safety glasses. You can also throw a sheet of cardboard down on top of it to protect from scratching and will help with hot chips flying.

[NAYLOR]

I suggest using a table saw or circular saw. Run the blade backwards and use a wood blade. Since you are cutting through aluminum there will be no need for carbide.

[bomber]

Oh, have the sheet upsidedown when you cut -- that way, the burrs will be on the back side, leaving the money side on better shape.

[MXtras]

Ok. I am going to say it. Why have so many suggested the backwards blade? You completely defeat all of the correct cutting geometry of the blade by doing this. I fail to understand the benefit. Please enlighten.

If you are going to run it on a 10+" saw, get a TC (triple chip or staggered tooth) blade. These blades are designed for cutting aluminum and work well.

Scott

[krusty the clown]

running the blade backwards gives a smoother cut..........basically a plywood blade is too course for light sheetmetal. i would run the blade backwards unless i have a blade specifically made for light guage metal. i also learned to do this from guy's who build metal buildings.

[SteveU]

I have cut aluminum around 1/16" thick on my table saw using either a 60 tooth combination or 80 tooth crosscut blade both of which are carbide tipped & have never reversed either one & have had no problems. I would think running a carbide tipped blade reversed would increase the chances of losing the carbides & ruining the blade.

[dwilliams35]

We've cut a HECK of a lot of exactly what you're talking about with a standard carbide-tipped blade on a circular saw running forward: does fine. Reversing the blade works good for sheet metal panels, but the aluminum is a little more brittle: a carbide blade running forward will cut a chip and leave a good clean edge: standard sheet metal is a little more pliable and will grab onto a forward-running blade: thus the "story" surrounding flipping the blade on thin sheet metal. Count me as one vote for forward: I know for a fact it works. cut it on the back side: lots easier to keep everything straight without hitting the texture on the diamond plate, and the cut won't make any difference. A machinist's deburring tool will make short order of any burred edge by the diamonds..

[hemi]

Thanks dwilliams563 for your practiced knowledge on this question !!!! I had concerns about a standard wood cutting circular saw because of the rpm's they run. The expensive metal cutting circular saws run about 25% slower, but maybe thats just to increase torque (through gearing) as apposed to reducing surface footage of the blade. Would you suggest a carbide blade specified for cutting Aluminum or is it not that important ?
Now I have to figure out how to set up the cuts, and how to secure a 16 foot fence. I have a couple of those Dow Corning 4' x 8' by 2" thick foam insulation sheets that I could put under the Aluminum (as long as it doesn't melt!) and have the blade depth set shallow, maybe 3/16" or so. As for the fence I'll have to ponder that one for a while. Any thoughts dwilliams53 ?
Thanks, I appreciate all the input from everyone.
hemi

[dwilliams35]

Thanks dwilliams563 for your practiced knowledge on this question !!!! I had concerns about a standard wood cutting circular saw because of the rpm's they run. The expensive metal cutting circular saws run about 25% slower, but maybe thats just to increase torque (through gearing) as apposed to reducing surface footage of the blade. Would you suggest a carbide blade specified for cutting Aluminum or is it not that important ?
Now I have to figure out how to set up the cuts, and how to secure a 16 foot fence. I have a couple of those Dow Corning 4' x 8' by 2" thick foam insulation sheets that I could put under the Aluminum (as long as it doesn't melt!) and have the blade depth set shallow, maybe 3/16" or so. As for the fence I'll have to ponder that one for a while. Any thoughts dwilliams53 ?
Thanks, I appreciate all the input from everyone.
hemi
We use just plain ol' circular saws on aluminum: we've got some of the metal cutting saws that we use from time to time on steel, and they do come with aluminum cutting blades, but a standard wood cutting saw seems to do fine. (and yes, it is to reduce surface footage: ran into that trying to cut some exotic tubing with a cold saw; even had the manufacturer's guy out to look at it: he punted and bought the saw back) The blade doesn't seem to be important: just as long as you've got carbide, you're generally good to go: finer teeth are better, I think, although we've never done anything scientific to nail that down. We always just put the cut line about an inch from the edge of a workbench and let 'er rip: as far as melting foam, the actual pieces don't get all that hot, but the chips are WAY hotter than anything I'd think about throwing at styrofoam. I think if I was ripping a 16', I'd invest in enough beer to get some friends over, then do it with a table saw just to keep from having to rig a 16' rip fence. Above all, don't even think about starting that cut without some eye and ear protection: it's big-time loud, and you end up with bunches of flying, sharp, hotter than heck chips.

[vc-onthepc]

based on what your working with id get some clamps and use a factory edge of one of the pieces your working with as a homemade rip fence . the factory edge should have been "sheared " off and razor straight my 2 cents

[Kevin54]

One thing to also consider is lubricant and the type of aluminum (OK..that's two things) The softer the aluminum, the easier it will gum up. Even with a carbide blade, soft aluminum will plug it up pretty quick. You can try to spray a lube on it, but the speed of the blade will push the lube away. What I have done in the past with the cardboard, is to coat it with some oil. It will give you enough lube to eliminate the gumming. Lay it on top of the aluminum that you are cutting. Diamond plate aluminum is a softer grade. Running the blade backwards will try to melt through it instead of cutting it. I think you will end up with a mess and not have a very clean cut.

[SteveU]

Thanks dwilliams563 for your practiced knowledge on this question !!!! I had concerns about a standard wood cutting circular saw because of the rpm's they run.
hemi

The Powermatic 66 tablesaw I have runs at 4000 rpm so you shouldn't have any problem with a circular saw running the blade too fast.