Buffer-slow or fast?

[dfndr]

I need a buffer and decided to get one of the small Baldors. #114 0r 111. One is 1800 rpm and one is 3600 rpm. I want to use the buffer on everything. What are pros and cons of each? Also, one is less amps and hp than other-is this a problem? I'm going Baldor because it is American made, nobody has any negative comments on Baldor, it is a dedicated buffer with better clearances for the task and it's about $140 more than the Dewalt 6 in grinder that I was thinking of getting and I can live with that over a lifetime.

[Junkman]

I have both a 1800 RPM and the 3600 RPM Baldor buffers. I found them both on Craigslist, and actually found a 3rd one for a friend. I use the 1800 on soft metals, and the 3600 on hard metals such as stainless steel. If you want to do a good job, you need to have both in my opinion. You also have to learn the technique to using these tools, since if you don't, you will have a flying projectile when it gets ripped out of your hands. You can also do damage to the piece if you are not careful. You will also need an assortment of wheels and compounds for the various degrees of polishing and type of metals you are working on. If you are lucky enough to find a buffer with the pedestal, that is even better. If you have the buffer mounted to the work bench, it will limit what you can do comfortably. Both of mine are the 3/4 horsepower models...

[Merkava_4]

I use the 1800 on soft metals, and the 3600 on hard metals such as stainless steel.

Excellent!! I wanted to know that too. :beer:

[Junkman]

This is an excellent site that will give you lots of basic and advanced information prior to purchase of any products. They are also very helpful if you call them directly. This is where I purchase my supplies from. Click here..... (http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm)

[Elroy]

If you want to do a good job, you need to have both in my opinion. You also have to learn the technique to using these tools, since if you don't, you will have a flying projectile when it gets ripped out of your hands. You can also do damage to the piece if you are not careful.

Yep. You really need both. Also note that for a given HP motor, the 1,800 will have more torque. If you had to pick just one, Elroy would recommend the 3,600 RPM model. Especially for buffing metals. The higher speed helps the compound do its job quicker. If you're going to do plastics then the slow speed will help prevent burning or melting the part.

You can use a 3,600 machine on plastics but you need to have a very light hand and open buff wheel and you need to pay attention. Plastic can be easily ruined.

For grinding metals or wire brushing the low speed as pointed out has higher torque and is better able to "hog" off the material with out slowing down. 3/4 horse is relatively high. 1/3 HP buffer all you really need for small parts. There have been times when Elroy wished he had more power.

[Bolster]

I have the Baldor 3/4 1800 RPM model. It's a wonderful machine and I feel rich for owning it, since it is not on the short list of most people's must-have machines. I chose the 1800 because I'm interested in metallurgy, particularly cutlery, and if you are going to buff out a knife (rather dangerous so you always tape the edge first), you want the slow speed buff to keep the temperature of the metal down. Most custom knife makers feel an 1800 is pretty safe and won't ruin the temper if you're moderately careful. Of course you still keep a can of water nearby if the knife starts to feel too warm.

One thing I wish (and maybe Elroy or Junk can tell me how to do this safely--Elroy refers to it above) is that I could also use the buffer with a friable grinding wheel. The slow speed should allow me to sharpen a blade, if I was careful not to allow overheating. But the instructions that came with the buffer cautioned very strongly against this, because there are no wheel guards, so a catastrophic wheel separation could injure the operator ( = me).

Is that overly cautious lawyer-speak? Or do you really not want a grinding wheel on an open wheel buff? I have not tried it, for fear the wheel would explode and maim me. I saw one after-market mfg'r that made wheel guards for a Baldor but they were frankensteinish and ugly.

[LoneGunman]

I have the Baldor 3/4 1800 RPM model. It's a wonderful machine and I feel rich for owning it, since it is not on the short list of most people's must-have machines. I chose the 1800 because I'm interested in metallurgy, particularly cutlery, and if you are going to buff out a knife (rather dangerous so you always tape the edge first), you want the slow speed buff to keep the temperature of the metal down. Most custom knife makers feel an 1800 is pretty safe and won't ruin the temper if you're moderately careful. Of course you still keep a can of water nearby if the knife starts to feel too warm.

One thing I wish (and maybe Elroy or Junk can tell me how to do this safely--Elroy refers to it above) is that I could also use the buffer with a friable grinding wheel. The slow speed should allow me to sharpen a blade, if I was careful not to allow overheating. But the instructions that came with the buffer cautioned very strongly against this, because there are no wheel guards, so a catastrophic wheel separation could injure the operator ( = me).

Is that overly cautious lawyer-speak? Or do you really not want a grinding wheel on an open wheel buff? I have not tried it, for fear the wheel would explode and maim me. I saw one after-market mfg'r that made wheel guards for a Baldor but they were frankensteinish and ugly.

I'm sure I'll catch crap for it but I regularly remove guards on stationary and hand grinders, with the stuff I'm working on they get in the way too much. Of course a separation can seriously injure you without the guards but when was the last time you saw a separation? I do a lot of grinding and polishing and have never had a separation. I do wear a full face shield.

Can you post a few pics of your knives? I'd love to see them.

[Junkman]

I have seen wheels come apart, and it is a nasty sight. Even with guards, you can get hurt, but the impact is a lot less, since most of the wheel is confined. There is no way that I would ever consider this. If you want a sharp knife, then use a steel to clean up the edge, and finish it off with a ceramic rod. If you don't want to spend what a ceramic rod costs, then turn over your coffee mug and use the bottom. I have done this at friends homes when they hand me a dull knife to cut bread or turkey. The look on their faces is priceless when they see what can be done with that old knife. One friends wife calls me "her McGuiver", because I can usually come up with a solution to most of her problems when her husband isn't home to fix something.

[Bolster]

Interesting.

Gunman, I am teaching myself knife repair rather than knife making so I don't have any original designs to show you. And I was just getting started on the repair angle, when the wife decided a new house was on order, which derailed everything. But if I get a chance I'll post some knives all the same...they're tools, right?

Junk, OK, no grinder wheel on the buffer w/o guards. Got it. As for sharpening with it, I was thinking of plane blades (which I really don't enjoy sharpening) and some crusty old chisels, and perhaps getting some drills close to shape, to save a little wear and tear on the Drill Doctor. I wouldn't sharpen any but a disliked knife with power. I have I think three different jigs for knife blades: Lansky, Sharpmaker, and EdgePro.

A coffee mug? Very clever!! That should work just fine!

[Junkman]

We have a company near by called Russell Harrington that is a knife manufacturer. One day a week, they open the company store to local people to buy knives at a discount. They also sell the "seconds" there. Many times, I have looked at the seconds, and can not see anything wrong with them. They will also sharpen customers knives, and sometimes it is while you wait. My wife is a regular customer in the store... She says that I keep taking her knives out to the garage. The truth is that when they get dull, she replaces them, since they are so inexpensive. I have 2 knives that I have owned for at least 30 years, and I take care of them.. They are wooden handled with brass rivets. I don't remember the name of the manufacturer, and since I am the only user, they do stay sharp. I don't like dull knives, since a dull knife is the one most likely to cut you, when it slips because it can't cut what you are trying to cut.

[Elroy]

One thing I wish (and maybe Elroy or Junk can tell me how to do this safely--Elroy refers to it above) is that I could also use the buffer with a friable grinding wheel. The slow speed should allow me to sharpen a blade, if I was careful not to allow overheating. But the instructions that came with the buffer cautioned very strongly against this, because there are no wheel guards, so a catastrophic wheel separation could injure the operator ( = me).

Is that overly cautious lawyer-speak?

Per your PM request:

With an 1,800 RPM motor you could probably get away with running a stone with out a guard. One thing Elroy would highly recommend is a "ring test" on the wheel. Besides containing the wheel, the guard also contains the "sparks" and you'll find the top of the wheel spitting hot metal at ya. So a full face shield for eye protection would be a good idea.

It's a risk so take it on your own if you wish. The other thing you're going to be missing is a tool rest. You need to be well aware of all the risks associated before attempting grinding with out a wheel guard. Also the extended location of the wheel may cause vibration. If you were running a 3,600 RPM motor Elroy would say NO. With an 1,800 RPM you're a little better off but never 100% safe. It's your body. Do you always wear a seat belt??

[Bolster]

Than-Q Elroy. The number of cautions make me think I'll ditch the idea for now. Yes, I'm one of those who actually does wear a seatbelt...and a respirator..and a condom...and overalls...sometimes all at once. But I am ashamed to say I run my tablesaw with no guard, so I'm inconsistent at best.

I do have a lovely Lee Valley Veritas adjustable tool rest (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=45938&cat=1,43072) I would like to use, IF I can figure out how to rig a wheel guard.