Switch Diagnosis Help

[beartoothweb]

This isn't really in my garage, but if it helps get an answer, you can pretend it is. ;->

In my basement, I have a set of switches. Due to the placement (and poor planning on my part), as you walk into the area, there's no way to turn ON the light. SO, what I did was add a motion sensor-based light switch that turns on as you round the corner.

I also wanted this area dimmable as it is adjacent to the home theater. So, what I did was wire the motion sensing switch AFTER the 600W dimmer switch. So, I can turn the dimmer switch ON and adjust the DIM, then the motion sensing switch is either OFF/AUTO/ON. That functionality works perfectly.

Here's the problem - When the motion sensing switch is in the AUTO position, it appears the internal PCB is drawing current, and the overhead lights (just a 120W (2x60) fixture) are only 80% or so bright. In the ON position, you get full brightness (full voltage.)

I haven't bothered to put a meter at the fixture to see the actual voltage difference, this is inferred based on what I'm seeing.

Does anyone have any ideas as to why this would be happening? Any ideas as to how to isolate it and fix it? I don't think the switch itself is bad, I tried a 2nd one and it did the same thing.

What about rewiring it in the opposite configuration (dimmer AFTER AUTO).

Any ideas?

Thanks.

[Torque1st]

Whenever I have used dimmers or any sort of electronic switch the electronic switch has reduced the brightness of the bulbs slightly. There is a slight voltage drop across the electronic switch element. That drop makes the bulbs last a whole lot longer tho. The downside is that when you have two such drops in series the light is just that much dimmer.

[beartoothweb]

Agreed. I tried rewiring it about 5 different ways, and to no avail. I have now decided that the dimmer isn't necessary, and I'm dropping it completely. I'll just run the motion sensor instead.

I did find there are combo switches that do both, but man, they're $75, which is a little spendy for me. I guess if you want it dimmer, just put on some sunglasses! :pimpflash

Thanks for the info.

KD

[hidollartoys]

You can use bulb wattage to assist in controlling the brightness. In your original application a higher wattage bulb would counteract the effects of the switching components. In your final configuration you could use a lower wattage bulb to 'dim down' the output.

[5wndwcpe]

There's always this:

http://www.lutron.com/products/productSystems.aspx?sid=AuroRa&pid=WhatIsAuroRa&cid=0&ac=aurora

[Mr_fixit]

I'll bet you're going to burn one or both those things out. They're not made to work that way. Time will tell.

Can't you GET a switch where there should be one.?

[Torque1st]

I would think he could even use surface wireways and switches.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productList&Ne=4294967294&category=Raceway+Systems%2FCord+Management&N=4294948859