Prybar Modification

[Mike83]

In anyone's professional or non professional opinion, would it be possible to turn a curved blade prybar into a straight blade prybar using a hammer? What I'm after is to convert this (Craftsman prybar):

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00943288000P?mv=rr

into this (Snappy bar):

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=86293&group_ID=23124&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Plan would be to use bench vise anvil and a big ass hammer. And eye protection too. Place curved end on anvil so curved points down and hammer it flat. No heat treatment, I believe that would cause annealing or softening of the tool, right?

I've found so many situations where a straight blade would work better to get in between pieces for prying.

[Crawlin]

Buy a straight one. I doubt your're going to bend the end straight with no heat. I look for excuses to buy new tools, maybe I am wierd, but I would spend the 30 bucks and have a snap on straight end pry bar. Or buy a mayhew.

[Mike83]

Just wanted to see if there was a cheap alternative. The three bar set with red handles is $20 with C-man Club this week (that is half off). I think the three Snapon bars are $182. Would heating the bar work without ruining the properties of it? Would I need Oxy-Acetylene or would a smaller torch work (MAPP gas perhaps)?

[garfunkle24]

In anyone's professional or non professional opinion, would it be possible to turn a curved blade prybar into a straight blade prybar using a hammer? What I'm after is to convert this (Craftsman prybar):

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00943288000P?mv=rr

into this (Snappy bar):

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=86293&group_ID=23124&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Plan would be to use bench vise anvil and a big ass hammer. And eye protection too. Place curved end on anvil so curved points down and hammer it flat. No heat treatment, I believe that would cause annealing or softening of the tool, right?


I've found so many situations where a straight blade would work better to get in between pieces for prying.

I would recommend you just try and find some cheaper straight ones for the following reasons;

1. As soon as you straighten one, you will need it in it's curved form.
2. The pry bar MAY be weakened (stress fractures etc)
3. It can REALLY hurt when a pry bar lets go and you were really leaning on it. Just my $0.02

Edit: I wouldn't do it with heat either, for the same reasons.

[Mike83]

Good points. I already have the curved ones, I was going to buy another set and modify those. Maybe I just need to save my pennies for Snap-On...:(

[garfunkle24]

Good points. I already have the curved ones, I was going to buy another set and modify those. Maybe I just need to save my pennies for Snap-On...:(

How about these: http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-61354-Dominator-Straight-Screwdriver/dp/B000NAF8D6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1231442363&sr=8-2

I believe Mayhew is the OEM for Sears anyway. Look at the OTC pry bars too for a more reasonable alternative to Snap-on.

[JayL]

How about these: http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-61354-Dominator-Straight-Screwdriver/dp/B000NAF8D6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1231442363&sr=8-2

I believe Mayhew is the OEM for Sears anyway. Look at the OTC pry bars too for a more reasonable alternative to Snap-on.

I purchased the Mayhew Dominator prybars set posted above a while back when these were on sale at Amazon. I believe it was $20 something during that time.

[48548]

I guess you could get a set from everyone's favorite HF!!!!! I would rather than ruin a good tool.

[64merc]

I saw a relatively cheap straight Enderes pry bar at Northern a while back. It was sold individually, and I should have bought it. I couldn't decide if I really needed a straight pry bar.

[Mike83]

After further thought, maybe I could cut off the end at an angle (not too sharp so as to maintain its strength). Therefore, no heating, bending, cracking, killing or injuring myself too badly. The c-man set for $20 would be the way to go imho. At least if it breaks I get a new one!

[rsanter]

those prybars are hardened and if you start hammering like you sugest I think it will break/shatter in a way you will not like

you could heat it to anneal it but then you would have the heat treat it again which means you will need to know something about the metal before you start.

I have one of the straight SO prybars and like it. it is not a direct replacement for the bent one so you will still need that one too

I think you should just buy the one you need and would sugest the mayhew version.
I really like the Cman pro (mayhew) prybars I have so I am sure the straight ones will be just as good

bob

[Mike83]

I disagree with your idea that prybars are hardened. Hardening the material would make it stronger and stiffer, but also more brittle, increasing the likelyhood of a catastrophic failure (ie bar snaps and you or others get hurt). Rather, one would prefer a bending failure (bar starts bending, you realize that maybe the bar has had enough and you back off before its too late).

[buening]

Pretty much all prybars are heat treated and tempered. A simple google search will tell you this.

Cutting the bent end off the prybar will shorten the length of it, so no you won't be able to get a replacement from Sears if it breaks....at least for the modified one.

I would imagine the entire prybar is treated the same and not just the tip, but cutting the tip off would generate heat. I don't think a simple hacksaw will cut through a prybar, but I've been wrong before!

After looking at the description from the Sears link you posted "Hardened and tempered their entire length for strength and durability" Where do you see a set for $20? Says $50 for me

[nissan_crawler]

prybars are hardened. If I was going to modify one at all, I would cut the end of at a very low speed while keeping it cool, then sand the final tip into it. I'm not sure how it would last, as I would assume the outer part is case hardened.

[Kevin54]

I disagree with your idea that prybars are hardened. Hardening the material would make it stronger and stiffer, but also more brittle, increasing the likelyhood of a catastrophic failure (ie bar snaps and you or others get hurt). Rather, one would prefer a bending failure (bar starts bending, you realize that maybe the bar has had enough and you back off before its too late).


Prybars are hardened then annealed / tempered. This keeps them rigid but not to the point where they are brittle.

Altering one by beating it with a hammer will stress it to the point that you stand a chance of breaking it. Heating it then bending it will change the properties to where it will probably be too soft. From the factory, when metal is heat treated and then annealed, there are certain temperatures and times you have to maintain depending on the alloy of the metal. Altering from this will cause failure. You may get by by doing the straightening with either a hammer or a hammer and heat, but when you really need it, it will fail.

[Mike83]

Hmm..thanks for the clarification, guys. I certainly don't have the capability to control cooling temps and times. Sounds like I won't be breaking into a blacksmith career today!

I posted the Professional Set link. The Sears website gives the full price for all sets, but C-man club flyer says the red handled set is $20.

[buening]

Do you mean these? (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00943279000P?vName=Tools)

[Spookrider]

So you are going to spend $20 or so to risk your life and shop to modify some thing. When you can spend "$15" more to get the tool you want done right and have a high quality one at that.
Spending $50 or less on a tool is cheap to me but, still hurts and I live on a part time $6.05 an hour tech budget.
If you really need it you will spend the extra "$15." to get one the right way.
Plus here a "what if"
Pry bar set $30
modify $0
Medical bill when it fail $9000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000000000000
Snap-On $35 with no medical bill

[Mike83]

Ok, I get the point. :) I'm not trying to kill myself, that's why I asked for different opinions.

Buening, the link you posted is for the 5 piece set, the 3 piece set is the one on sale for C-man Club.

[Crasen]

I have heated and bent a Harbor Freight pry bar before when I needed to get into a tight area. I have used it since and have not had a problem with it breaking yet. Maybe someday it will but I have seen a Harbor Freight pry bar bend before as well, so maybe it will just bend instead of breaking.

[Mike83]

I've given in and decided to spring for the Snap-On straight blade 24" and 12". Maybe not at the same time but eventually. I like the look of those bars and I have no doubt about their performance.