Parts Washer....what solution?

[Cutch]

Got a good deal on a 20 gallon parts washer.

What solution should I use in it and what amount?

A friend suggested varsol and putting a large magnet in it...the problem with him is sometimes he knows what he is talking about and other times he is just blowing smoke. He can take a round peg and fit it into a square hole...if he pounds on it long enough :beer:

[iiibdsiil]

I used some $30 for 5 gallons stuff from discount autoparts. It worked pretty good. I had a buddy that worked for Zep products, a GOOD buddy, and he swore by some stuff that they had. I know most people are loyal to their brand, but I don't think he would try to steer me in the wrong direction.

[kartracer55]

Are you storing it inside like an attatched garage or the like? Is non flammable a concern? Simple green makes a parts washing solution that works pretty well, however Its all that I use so I cant really compare it to anything else. Its biodegradable, doesnt smell like diesel fuel either.

Jim

[mikeatrpi]

Don't you mean, square peg in a round hole?

[Charles (in GA)]

Solvent type or water based solution? Depends on the parts washer. Is the pump OK for solvent?

Graymills agitene is an excellent solvent type fluid designed for parts washers. You need one with a lid with a fire fuse on it, designed for solvents.

Agitene comes in the regular version, 105F flashpoint that won't disolve varnish (for cleaning electric motors) and also in a "Super" version that has lanolin in it and a different formula (melts varinsh) and a "Super 141" version that has lanolin and a 141F flashpoint. The lanolin coate the parts, prevents rust but has to be removed to paint a part.

Graymills also makes an Aquitene, water based cleaner for their heated washers.

Charles

[sberry]

I still use mineral spirits and try to catch it on sale in gallons. If you keep the lid closed it lasts a long time, couple yrs if you pre scrape in a home garage. It is often on sale, last I got was 3$ or so.

[330Scott]

Ditto on the mineral spirits. It took a big price hike when gasoline spiked late last year and hasn't come down - around here anyway. $50 for a 5 gallon can.

I was going to go the Simple Green route but the stuff freezes. Here is the reply to my question about SG freezing.

Thank you for your inquiry. Simple Green Pro Series Automotive Cleaner concentrate and a 1:4 dilution will freeze just like water will. With both of them, you can thaw out the product, shake or mix the container to make sure all components are well-mixed again, and use the product without any loss in efficacy. Multiple freeze-thaw cycles will start to diminish cleaning ability (more than 2 times), so it is best if you can at least keep the concentrate in an area where it will not freeze. Some people put isopropyl alcohol into the cleaner to keep it from freezing, but please be aware that you will destroy the environmental and safety aspects of the product if you do this, and so we don't recommend it.

[stimpy]

scott try a magnetic engine block heater and put it on the outside of the tank , and it will actually keep the stuff pretty warm, but it won't work if the tank is plastic, at the ship yard we used the serria antifreeze in the solution to keep it safe as we were working near a large body of water , the shop I am at now we use mineral spirits and some other lights ( napatha , butanol , xylene)the parts washer is a flammmable type and you must keep the lid shut or otherwise there won't be anything in there at the end of the week ( except for the big headache from the vapors and replacement cost)

[MXtras]

Here's another idea -

I used Agitene for many, many years. It floats on water since it is solvent based, not water based, so I would dump about 5 gallons of water in the bottom of the tank, then fill with solvent. The drain tube went down to within an inch of the bottom and the suction tube for the pump was situated just above the 'water line'. The water would act as a filter for the big stuff. Worked really, really well.

I also used small plastic balls on the top of the solvent to reduce evaporation and I put an inline oil filter in the feed tube to filter out the smaller stuff. I liberated a large disc magnet from a truck transmission and stuck it to the outside of the tank near the pick up tube. I sold that home-made unit about 10 years ago.

Now I wash everything with either Brakleen or mineral spirits but I rarely rebuild car engines any longer. If you work on cars, you need a parts washer. If you work on bikes you can almost get away with a pie tin and a can of Brakleen!

Scott

[REFLEXX]

I've heard Boeing stopped using Simple Green because it caused corrosion in aluminium.

I'll have a parts washer soon, so I'm looking forward to everyone's imput.

[eschoendorff]

Here's another idea -

I used Agitene for many, many years. It floats on water since it is solvent based, not water based, so I would dump about 5 gallons of water in the bottom of the tank, then fill with solvent. The drain tube went down to within an inch of the bottom and the suction tube for the pump was situated just above the 'water line'. The water would act as a filter for the big stuff. Worked really, really well.


Scott


Very slick! :beer:

[MXtras]

Using the water as a filter was my father's idea but I was told that some commercially available units are made using the same theory, but I have yet to see one. The plastic balls on top to reduce the exposed surface area was borrowed from a chemist buddy and reduced the evaporation by probably 75% (a guess).

Scott

[Cutch]

Forgot to mention that the garage is heated. The gas boiler is located on the other side of the garage about 30 ft away from the parts washer

[dink]

On a parts washer what PSI does the water come out at? Is it adjustable flow?

Never used one before so just out of pure curiousity

[BoostAddiction]

As a Certified Old Guy (tm), I've seen my share of parts washers and solvents.

To make a long story short, I now use a product called Blue Gold, which is certified non-toxic, harmless to aluminum, can be flushed down the drain, and cleans parts very well (though it does it better when heated).

When doing the Extreme Makeover to the garage last year, I specified a two-basin sink so I could clean and rinse parts more easily-- one sink holds Blue Gold in diluted form, one is just for rinsing. It does a great job and cleans up very easily. I did this so I wouldn't have to spend the space and cost of a dedicated parts washer.

For those who haven't seen it, here is a picture of the sink. I also installed a shower head-type of sprayer to help in rinsing the parts. Does a great job.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a70/BoostAddiction/Garage034.jpg

You can get Blue Gold from this site (http://www.bluegoldcleaners.com/) . It is great stuff, but a little expensive. OTOH, it is quite concentrated and I usually dilute it for any use. In addition to using it for parts cleaning, I have a spray bottle with it to wipe the race car clean (it must be the other cars on the track that get my car oily, don't you think?).

-Will

[Charles (in GA)]

I've heard Boeing stopped using Simple Green because it caused corrosion in aluminium.

I'll have a parts washer soon, so I'm looking forward to everyone's imput.

While indeed, Simple Green will cause corrosion in aluminum, they now have a different formula for use on aircraft, that works just as well.

Previously someone mentioned D-Limonene as a cleaner. That is a super stuff and might work OK in a water based parts washer. IF you don't want it to rust out, be sure its not metal!

I just acquired a 20 or so year old GrayMills 500A parts washer. I emptied it out and scraped it clean inside and scotchbrited it and then pressure washed it out. Got to sand it and paint it and fix the frozen selector valve in it, and install a new switch and fill it with fresh agitene. Then I can really clean some parts!

Charles