OTC/SPX - CV Joint Fork Adapter

[Merkava_4]

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc7507.html

Why so expensive? :(

[Merkava_4]

I guess I shouldn't complain too much - I'm saving quite a lot by doing the job myself - it's just that I'm thinking of all the other tools I could buy with 37 dollars. . .

[Stephenw]

I'd say it is hardened so that it doesn't bend. I have removed hundreds of axles on a wide range of makes and models. A quick pop with a prybar has always worked for me.

[Merkava_4]

A quick pop with a prybar has always worked for me.

They say that a pry bar can damage the seal where the drive shaft enters the transmission. :dunno:

[Stephenw]

Don't pry on the seal. The tip of the prybar goes on the inner cv joint. The pry point should be the transmission case or other available structure that is nearby. Only give the bar a quick snap to release the lock ring. You don't want it to come all the way out so that the axle splines or lock ring hits the sealing lip. Then carefully remove the axle.

[kythri]

Prybar always worked for me...

[HolisticPerformance]

I typically use a prybar, but I can see how the seal could be damage if someone wasn't careful. I would watch which direction the pry bar was inserted, and pry against the transmission/differential, not the seal itself.

[Stephenw]

Another thing I thought of. If doing both axles, on a few models, only one axle can be removed at a time. If you remove both axles, the differential side gears will fall apart inside the transmission.

[Stephenw]

One last item. On many models if you don't drain the transmission, transmission fluid will come pouring out when the axle is removed.

[tatra]

just replace the seal[s] at the same time..............probably less than the tool and piece of mind...........

[Moose-LandTran]

Don't pry on the seal. The tip of the prybar goes on the inner cv joint. The pry point should be the transmission case or other available structure that is nearby. Only give the bar a quick snap to release the lock ring. You don't want it to come all the way out so that the axle splines or lock ring hits the sealing lip. Then carefully remove the axle.

I do the same, but generally use a crowbar or a tyre lever for split-rim truck tyres, as it's longer and thinner than most prybars.

[c39er]

They say that a pry bar can damage the seal where the drive shaft enters the transmission. :dunno:

IMO using a good properly placed prybar works better than using the OTC tool or most others because you can control how carefully/fast you pop the inner axle joint out. Prying the inner axle joint out slowly with a prybar/large square shaft screwdriver and tapping on the axle joint housing at the same time gets them out easily 95% of the time-the other ones a little more force! After the snap ring lets go you can carefully guide the shaft splines out of the trans watching not to hit/damage the seal. I've also done hundreds of these axles. Bob

[autoace]

I have that tool, and the extension for it. It's made in China Merk.:( It works well though, nice slide hammer attachment.

[caper]

The problem with that tool is once you put the slide hammer on it there is very little room for it to fit on most cars.The hammer is usually hitting up against something.Had one at a dealership and nobody used it,prybars all around.

[autoace]

The problem with that tool is once you put the slide hammer on it there is very little room for it to fit on most cars.The hammer is usually hitting up against something.Had one at a dealership and nobody used it,prybars all around.

That's why you need the extension for it!

[caper]

We had the extension but by the time you got it geared up and in place the prybar would have the axle out.

[Merkava_4]

Alright all you geniuses....what kind of prybar? :D

I've got a short 12 inch S-K prybar and then a long 3ft Klein sleever bar with an angled chisel tip - I have a feeling neither of those is gonna work. :eek2:

[Tarheelgarage]

Another thing I thought of. If doing both axles, on a few models, only one axle can be removed at a time. If you remove both axles, the differential side gears will fall apart inside the transmission.

The older Chrysler 3 speed auto (413) was one of these that the diff gear would drop down if both axles were removed at the same time.

I'm not sure about later trannies, but I always just do one at a time to be on the safe side.

[kiall1987]

The older Chrysler 3 speed auto (413) was one of these that the diff gear would drop down if both axles were removed at the same time.

I'm not sure about later trannies, but I always just do one at a time to be on the safe side.

Ive seen some people actually using a broom/brush wooden cut down handle to support the diff once one side was out then sliding the "peg" right through. But as far as am aware a lot of diffs just slightly move down if both drive shafts are removed? , i don't have much experience with the different setups as am in plant .