Seal and Bearing Race Installing Kits

[Jeeper]

What is everyone's thoughts on seal and bearing install kits. Is it OK to go with cheaper brands on these or stick with the better ones.

[Fedwrench]

Depending on the type of kit, they are often made by one brand and sold under many names. I like the lisle kit.http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-2970-lisle-12800.aspx

[rsanter]

most the time not much difference
I have used the lisle and a version from HF that was very close to the lisle and both worked great
I have also seen a couple of them from china that looked so bad that I think they may break if a hammer got close

look them over and use your judgement

bob

[Canadian Charlie]

I seen one from OTC in the Summit Racing catalog I might go with this one in the near future

[nate379]

The aluminum ones dont' hold up that well. A good steel set is expensive though. My friend got a set for his transmission shop and it was around $500.

[rsanter]

The aluminum ones dont' hold up that well. A good steel set is expensive though. My friend got a set for his transmission shop and it was around $500.

$500, no thank you
do you have a lathe?

bob

[Stephenw]

I have an aluminum set. I don't remember where I got it, but I don't think it was Harbor Freight. It has held up well for many years. They only get beat up if you use them to drive something that is in between sizes.

[peterbilr98]

i have the otc stinger set no problems.

[volvo420coupe]

I use the lisle brand set, which is very affordable. Just make sure it has the air hammer attachment, you wont be disappointed.

[Jeeper]

I use the lisle brand set, which is very affordable. Just make sure it has the air hammer attachment, you wont be disappointed.

Is the air hammer attachment worth it?

I assume you are talking about this one?

[Stick]

This is one thing I've spent the extra money on for a truck brand and not regretted it once. The ability to warranty drivers that have been beat to hell and back is worth the extra couple bucks.

[Canadian Charlie]

i have the otc stinger set no problems.


How did you find it, did it work great and is it worth getting?

[Thedroid]

Have you guys ever used the SKF set. Pricey, but very nice.

[nate379]

They would get destroyed very shortly working on transmissions. Not because of what you said, but some of the bearings/seals are tough to get in there and there are alot. Even his steel set had a few that were worn out.

I have an aluminum set. I don't remember where I got it, but I don't think it was Harbor Freight. It has held up well for many years. They only get beat up if you use them to drive something that is in between sizes.

[nate379]

To go through the trouble of getting materials and making 30-40 drivers and some handles along with heat treating it, the $500 is money saved IMO.


$500, no thank you
do you have a lathe?

bob

[Uncle Buck]

$500, no thank you
do you have a lathe?

bob

My thought exactly! :thumbup:

[Uncle Buck]

To go through the trouble of getting materials and making 30-40 drivers and some handles along with heat treating it, the $500 is money saved IMO.

Heat treating would be a plus, but if you own the lathe it really would not take much time or effort to replace them as they get buggered up.

[A_Pmech]

$500, no thank you
do you have a lathe?

bob

:thumbup:

I've made dozens and dozens of them in all kinds of odd sizes. Usually, I just turn a piece of scrap, do the job, and throw it back in the scrap bin. :lol_hitti

I keep saying I'm going to make a "permanent" set and heat treat them, but I haven't gotten there yet...

Cheap sockets and sections of pipe work well too. :bounce:

[bmwpower]

So where's the picts/links for all the these brands you're talking about?

[ossaguy]

For larger seal installers, PVC nipples of all sizes work well.I got about 6 different diameters at the hardware store,and they work well.

Steve

[Moose-LandTran]

I tend to use impact hub nut sockets and things like that.

[rsanter]

To go through the trouble of getting materials and making 30-40 drivers and some handles along with heat treating it, the $500 is money saved IMO.

for the professional perhaps....
one thing that I find is that I often use only some of the sizes in the set so buying a whole set seems like a waste to me.
if I need a specific tool that can be machined relativly easily I will make it and then I add it to my stash of what I have

just try to do custom engine work and see what the specialized fixtures cost.


bob

[nate379]

It's kind of funny that most of you guys don't worry much about a $500 wrench set or $5000 floor epoxy job but a good seal driver set for $500 is questioned. :confused::)

I have an aluminum set from Harbor Freight and it's pretty much junk. I killed several of the drivers the first time using them even.
Pipe or sockets are what I normally use but sometimes it's handy to have a set vs wandering around the shop trying to find something that will work.

[Uncle Buck]

It's kind of funny that most of you guys don't worry much about a $500 wrench set or $5000 floor epoxy job but a good seal driver set for $500 is questioned. :confused::)

I have an aluminum set from Harbor Freight and it's pretty much junk. I killed several of the drivers the first time using them even.
Pipe or sockets are what I normally use but sometimes it's handy to have a set vs wandering around the shop trying to find something that will work.

Na, neither rsanter or me have polished and pampered floors. I cannot speak for rsanter's wrench sets, but most of my wrenches, and most of my tools were either bought well used, or are tools of someone of more modest means, IE the oft loathed Craftsman flat panel combo's are my best set of combinations. You get the idea here I don't have dollars falling out of my hiney so I must be a bit creative with some of my mechanic/shop work hence my love of the lathe and mill, both accomodate my poor ways well. So you see, no fancy floors, or $500 wrench sets in my box. :thumbup:

[Stephenw]

I shot a picture of my set. I don't know the brand, but it was made in the U.S.A.

[jsaw]

I like to make my own. If you take the race from the old bearing that you are replacing & grind it down a little to provide clearance, & then use a flat plate you can drive the new race into position.
Pipe caps or bushings make great seal & bushing installers
Plastic pipe fitting work for seal installers, & are softer so you are less likely to damage a seal

[bgott]

You can always use a brass punch. You have to work it in there carefully so you don't cock the cup or seal but, with practice, it works well. Well enough that I usually think of a better tool to spend my money on when I think of buying the driver set.

[stevejh82]

I second the brass punch, always has worked well enough to get by. I came across an old blue point driver set though, and am interested to give them a try.

[isr2kba]

What a timely thread so relevant to my current situation. I have been researching race install sets for a few days now. I like the idea of just using the old race to fabricate a tool to install the new ones.

[Thedroid]

We had a bearing class put on by SKF at the plant not too long ago and they advised against using brass, I've used a brass punch many times, and didn't think I was doing any damage, but they said that the brass particles can damage the bearing later. They told us that if a proper installer is not available, to use key stock instead of brass.

[Thedroid]

Another question, is why would one need to beat a bearing in so hard as to damage a driver set? I've been replacing bearings in electric motors and industrial machinery for years, and my thoughts have always been to be very gently with bearings, whether your removing or installing them. It makes me cringe to think of a guy wailing on a driver set with BFH. Thats why I fix everything I own myself. Heat has always been my friend when it comes to bearings. Whether it's a fancy induction heater, a hot plate, or a few quick passes with a torch, it goes a long way.

[Merkava_4]

I use blocks of 2 x 4's and sections of broom handles. :spit: