Do you torque to specs?

[Mr.Nutcase]

Do you torque every bolt to specs?

[Adam McLaughlin]

YUP. My right arm elbow spec.

Seriously though... Maybe Head Bolts and that's it... Otherwise, I just tighten to feel. I have been a professional trans builder for a decade next year too. Once you get so much "behind the wheel time" they become a little superfluous.

I do use a torque wrench when setting up differential pinion pre-load though.

Adam

[rsanter]

internal engine bolts/fasteners, internal transmission, rearend and some suspension parts.
all other parts are tightened to 'about that'

bob

[35mastr]

internal engine bolts/fasteners, internal transmission, rearend and some suspension parts.
all other parts are tightened to 'about that'

bob

Just the important stuff as stated.

[35mastr]

YUP. My right arm elbow spec.

Once you get so much "behind the wheel time" they become a little superfluous.

Adam

The above statement says it all. When you have done it long enough your hands will know when its enough.

I also have been doing it this way for many years.

[GSteg]

I torque everything including the plastic engine cover.








:D


Non-critical parts are torque by hand. Anything relating to engine/suspesion/chassis are done by a torque wrench.

[Jared]

yep tourque it to half a turn before it breaks. I tourque wheel nuts and engine parts other than that i never use a tourque wrench.

[DashEight]

I mostly work on Toyotas so using my torque wrench is not that much of a hassle for 80% of the bolts on the motor, usually they are in groups and are torqued to the same values. Now on the body parts, I can't remember the last time I used any thing other then just a socket (10mm) and ratchet.

[fomocoforrester]

Sometimes, I've noticed when torqing a number of similar fasteners to the same spec. that the odd one will feel softer than the rest, in other words, it requires a larger angular movement of the TW to reach the required torque.

It is not always obvious why this should be - maybe thread damage due to previous over tightening, material fault, coned or damaged washer, etc.

So what I normaly do, if it is a critical item, I just go for it, in the knowledge that if it strips it will need remedial work - helicoil, timecert or whatever.

Whereas, if it is a non-critical item, I will abandon the TW and see if I can achieve an acceptable torque by "feel" alone.

[Merkava_4]

Me: "I can't find the specs in the manual for the rod cap bolts; what do I torque them to?"

Mower shop: "Torque them until they're tight."

Me: "How do I know when they're tight?"

Mower shop: "When they stop turning."

:lol_hitti

[Nik_95Cobra]

I only torque critical parts. Love it when I tighten some nonsensical bolt by hand and some looky-loo captain know it all who's never held a wrench before and shouldn't be standing around bugging me asks me why I'm not torquing it. :bounce:

[nissan_crawler]

I only torque critical parts. Love it when I tighten some nonsensical bolt by hand and some looky-loo captain know it all who's never held a wrench before and shouldn't be standing around bugging me asks me why I'm not torquing it. :bounce:

Ditto. Torque the critical engine/drivetrain/turbine stuff, german torque most of the rest, use common sense on the delicate non-structural stuff.

[Canadian Charlie]

When it comes to rebuilding an engine the answer is YES!!! Everything else is not

[Art From De Leon]

Power train components yes, hydralic pumps and SCVs, yes, everything else, by feel.

[Diesel_Crawler]

Critical parts or When our Engineer tells us it has to be and if it is specified by the customer.

[STClurker]

all the way to "snap" and back it off a quarter turn :D

[bmxr4life87]

i torque wheels and engine/drivetrain internal components but here lately ive found it easiest to torque pans after gasket replacement such as differential cover, tranny pan, oil pan and what not so that all the fastners are within the same range of each other to help prevent gaps which create leaks ive been doing this for a while with zero leaks

[speed bump]

If its a critical component or I don't have a good feel for how tight it should be then yes I almost always use a torque wrench if its available.

[johnny1290]

Rarely, but I have 2 torque wrenches just in case :-D

[Merkava_4]

With gasket mating surfaces you'll want to use a torque wrench because over tight means you'll squeeze the gasket out the sides; but that's only on soft gaskets like cork and rubber. Other things like cylinder heads need a torque wrench to get the right amount of bolt stretch.

[tatra]

all the way to "snap" and back it off a quarter turn
hey, that's my schtick..........:lol_hitti:beer:

[Need4racin]

I always torque lug nuts and spanner nuts. Prevents rotors from warping and the spanner nut keeps the rotor from flying off the spindle.

[volvo420coupe]

I always torque to specs, rarely do I have any proof (as in the clicking of a torque wrench)