View Full Version : Manual vs. Battery Impact Drivers
Bolster
08-09-2009, 10:02 PM
I have been thinking about getting an impact driver...don't need it too often but have wished for one of my own a few times lately. You guys who use 'em, is there a clear winner for low-usage situations? Manual vs. Battery? Are there advantages to each and if so, what are they? If you were going on pure "ability to get the rusty screw (or nut) to move" which would you choose, does one have more raw power? (And do the manual ones work on nuts?)
Obviously I'd like to save $$ by purchasing a manual, but if the battery is worth it, let me know.
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/impact.jpg
http://www.powertoolsuk.co.uk/webcat/pics/general/6935fdwfe275.jpg
billymade
08-09-2009, 10:41 PM
IMHO, they are two tools with different purposes..... the hand impact, I use primarily for (removal) of stubborn fasteners like screws that hold rotors on or door hinge screws. They have a square drive; so you could put a socket on there but in that case I usually, use a air impact wrench. The electric is a light duty and quickly removes/installs fasteners.
What kind of work are you doing? Each tool has its place but they are definitely, for different situations.
vartz04
08-09-2009, 10:46 PM
forget the manual one, get the battery driven one, or an air impact.
Hiball
08-09-2009, 10:49 PM
Yeah comparing those two tools is like comparing apples to Oranges. I use my Impact driver way more than i do a air/electric impact. You can find those manual impact relatively cheap so go ahead and buy both.
Two different tools as stated above hand impacts can't be beat for shock loading and removal of stubborn parts.
Joelfke
08-09-2009, 11:01 PM
in all seriousness...how would one use a manual impact driver? ive never had one in person....do you hammer on it like a spike?
Hiball
08-09-2009, 11:07 PM
in all seriousness...how would one use a manual impact driver? ive never had one in person....do you hammer on it like a spike?
Yep. Select direction loosen or tighten and knock the hell out of it. LoL.
Bolster
08-10-2009, 01:08 AM
Well, if my primary need is to unstuck rusty old screws and bolts, does the manual item get the nod?
Billymade: to answer your question, the former not the latter. Ie, stuck fasteners. Not repetitive screwing. I shoulda made that clear in my initial question.
I know the battery impact can do lots of driving chores that the manual obviously can't and isn't intended for, but I'm looking to judge solely on the basis of getting stuck and rusted screws and bolts (and sometimes nuts) unstuckified.
billymade
08-10-2009, 01:35 AM
I say go with the manual; I have the Craftsman OEM Lisle version; it is pretty good but the bits tend to break, new bits are available at Sears. I'm sure if you found a used Snap-On; that would even be better... anyone had experience with the Snap-On impact?
One thing about the Lisle version; it comes in a plastic case.... the Craftsman doesn't!
http://www.google.com/products?client=safari&rls=en&q=lisle%20impact%20driver&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wf
Elroy
08-10-2009, 03:56 AM
For removing stubborn slotted and phillips screws get the manual hammer drive. They actually work very well. The only bitch comes in when trying to tell if the driver is in forward or reverse. Sometimes, Changing directions can be an adventure as well.
nissan_crawler
08-10-2009, 04:09 AM
I'm with Elroy. Just used mine on 5 rusted screws today. The manual one is much less likely to strip a screw, IMHO.
Bolster
08-10-2009, 12:56 PM
How is the manual ID for nuts and bolts, tho? Is it primarily for screws? The manual ID I want has a 1/2 (I think) drive on it, so I'm guessing it'll handle impact sockets OK?
bchee
08-10-2009, 01:02 PM
Hey do you have to use a special hammer for the manual impact?
How is the manual ID for nuts and bolts, tho? Is it primarily for screws? The manual ID I want has a 1/2 (I think) drive on it, so I'm guessing it'll handle impact sockets OK?
The manual driver works on screws of all kinds (you just need the appropriate bit) and nuts and bolts (with impact sockets). The kits usually come with Phillips #1-3 bits and 3 or 4 slotted bits too. They are good for use on hex or torx fasteners as well with the appropriate bit or bit socket.
My battery powered driver is used for repetitive tasks, such as driving screws while building a deck or fence. Other than that, I don't use it.
Hey do you have to use a special hammer for the manual impact?
No, any decent sized hammer will do.
Scotto
08-10-2009, 04:07 PM
How is the manual ID for nuts and bolts, tho? Is it primarily for screws? The manual ID I want has a 1/2 (I think) drive on it, so I'm guessing it'll handle impact sockets OK?
I've only used it for screws - never tried it for bolts/nuts. I have an air impact gun for that. The manual impact works the best for screws because when you hit it the bit both goes into the screw head and turns, so it won't strip the screw head. You don't need the downward action for bolts/nuts, just the turning.
burger
08-10-2009, 04:29 PM
I don't think the manual impact driver would be as effective on bolts as it is on screws. Strike the end of it with a hammer and two things happen -- the fastener is impacted and it is rotated slightly. If you put on a socket that slips over the head of the fastener, the impact force is no longer translated to the fastener, just rotation.
Am I missing something? I have always used a manual impact driver strictly for screws and an air-powered impact for nuts and bolts. I also recently picked up an electric impact for driving in lag bolts.
Ed
True, a manual impact is not the BEST tool for removing/installing nuts and bolts, but it does work. I used one for this purpose a number of times before I purchased my air compressor. You can get around 200 ft/lbs of torque with one. If you have access to air, use an air impact. They are much faster and far more powerful. If not, a manual driver is inexpensive and should do the trick on most bolts and nuts that are not extremely tight.
Garage_Mahal
08-10-2009, 10:59 PM
I don't think the manual impact driver would be as effective on bolts as it is on screws. Strike the end of it with a hammer and two things happen -- the fastener is impacted and it is rotated slightly. If you put on a socket that slips over the head of the fastener, the impact force is no longer translated to the fastener, just rotation.
Am I missing something? I have always used a manual impact driver strictly for screws and an air-powered impact for nuts and bolts. I also recently picked up an electric impact for driving in lag bolts.
I'm guessing he meant socket-head screws.
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