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Amount of slope for new concrete floor

FarmerSid

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Dec 12, 2005
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145
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Ontario, Canada
Hey all! Ready to pour the concrete floor in the shop part of my new 36'X72' shop barn. The shop is 36'X40. 36' deep and 40' wide. A contractor buddy tells me to go at least 6" over the 36' depth. A good friend of the family who owns the concrete company I will be getting the concrete from tells me 3" is lots. What's your opinions?

Cheers!

Sid
 
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REFLEXX

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Aug 14, 2005
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Riverside, CA
Dead flat. Just my opinion, I'm no expert, but that's what I did.

Unless you're going to have drainage/water issues, it's nice to have a flat surface in case you're ever using the floor for welding frames, structures, etc...

If not, then as little as possible.
 

cc_rider

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Jun 22, 2006
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223
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Austin Texas
That may not be all that bad, but I bet you could get away with 3" over 36'. 6" in 36' is about 5/8" for every four feet (somebody check my math). Lay your four foot level on a LEVEL surface then raise one end 5/8". That's a lot of slope. Drop to 5/16" and that'll be barely noticeable, but hopefully enough to get water going in the right direction.

36' = 432" => 6/432 => 1/72 => .66"/48" right?

I disagree with Ref though; I would want my garage floor to slope slightly toward the door. When you powerwash or rinse or whatever, it's nice not to have standing water; mine has a few low spots that take a long time to dry.

Here's another thing I'd try to do when your slab is poured: have them radius the edges, so the floor 'flows' up to the perimeter wall instead of a sharp corner. Makes sweeping a ton easier, since there's no tight corner for crud to hide in. I'm in the process of adding that detail to my edges, but it's a bit crude; if they build it in it could be smooth. Use a 4" (or larger?) PVC pipe as a form.

Keep us posted!

c.
 
Last edited:

GShelton

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Aug 14, 2006
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252
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N. Central Florida
My vote is with the flat. (Again unless you will be washing cars in there or something.)

I had mine poured totally flat. :)

And if you need it sloped, I would go with only about 1/8in per foot.
 

73GRAND

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Apr 7, 2005
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NIAGARA FALLS
I am a Mechanical/Civil Designer and I never spec out anything more than 1/4/ft. I also do concrete flat work. You'll never notice 1/4/ft. The only time I would worry about sloping in a garage is away from an interior doorway so that the snow melt doesn't form a puddle where you take your shoes off. Or wher you want to install a floor drain.
 

67fairlaner

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Mar 8, 2006
Messages
23
Location
Carleton, Mi
FarmerSid said:
Hey all! Ready to pour the concrete floor in the shop part of my new 36'X72' shop barn. The shop is 36'X40. 36' deep and 40' wide. A contractor buddy tells me to go at least 6" over the 36' depth. A good friend of the family who owns the concrete company I will be getting the concrete from tells me 3" is lots. What's your opinions?

Cheers!

Sid
I went with a 1 inch drop (From back to front), each 10 ft in my 30 X 40 deep. Not even noticeable when walking or working, but it is sure nice when it's time to powerwash the floors & the water flows out the doors.
 

428

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Jan 12, 2005
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s.c.
Both of mine were poured with about 2 1/2 inches of fall over 24 feet. You'd never notice it but you'll still get some spots where water will puddle.

To hose it out it works fine but don't count on slope to act as a drain.
 
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twostory

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Dec 23, 2005
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554
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Duluth, Georgia
None. I poured my slab one month ago (26 wide by 44 deep). Since it is a detached garage, I am not required to slope the slab towards the door. After raining several times, the slab mostly fills up and runs out the garage door area. My stem wall is 3 inches higher than the slab, so the water has to go somewhere.

Anyway, the slab drains away and dries fairly quickly after a rain, so I do not see any problem once I am dried in and want to wash the slab off. As on poster said, "That's why they make squeegies!"

bye,

Robert
 

Stuart in MN

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Sep 8, 2005
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Minneapolis
My 24x40 garage has a flat floor, no slope towards the doors, without any problems. If I hose it down I'll get minor puddling in spots, but as said above a squeegee takes care of that quickly.
 

Winmon

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May 14, 2006
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Sequim, Wa
I had them do my 40 x 40 flat. I figure if I have water coming in I have bigger problems to worry about!
 

RAYJAY

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May 29, 2006
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UNION DALE PA
if I had to do over agin I would run a strip drainthe whole length 5 foot out from the back wall of my barn .and 1/8 per foot to the drains . I woild never pitch to the garage door ( mine does now all I get is ice out side the door every winter )

Jeff
 

Ironcrow

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Sep 30, 2005
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Arizona
Flat. I mop and squeegee to clean the floor. And I do wash cars in the garage. the last garage I had 1/4 inch to the foot and I DID notice to slope when rolling my tool cabinet around. harder to go uphill and I had to set the brake to keep from rolling out the door.
 

Aahz

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Feb 4, 2006
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Location
Chicago, IL
We usually recommend 1/8" per foot with a drain before the door. Unless you get a REALLY good concrete guy, they will still leave some puddling, but you should never get any amount of standing water. Guys...if you are leaving the area completely flat because of a lift...someone has misinformed you...They make shims to insure the lift stays flat and level...1/8" will not cause your toolbox to roll or make it any more difficult to move. Most architects that deal with working garages know these basic facts about an automotive workbay...12' wide x 24' deep with 1/8"/ft slope on the concrete. (It doesn't always get translated to the building design.....but any dealer or mechanic that has built his own garage can tell you that's what it SHOULD be.
 

Winmon

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Sequim, Wa
I DID notice to slope when rolling my tool cabinet around. harder to go uphill and I had to set the brake to keep from rolling out the door.

That is one reason I did mine flat in addition to a nice level surface for the hoist. I also forgot to mention I had a drain (with a grate cover) installed across the width of the front of the garage to stop any water from getting in.
 

boiler7904

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Apr 4, 2006
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3,414
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NW IN
Standard practice for architects in our office is to spec between 1/8" and 1/4" pitch per foot to interior drains or out overhead doors.

For residential projects, pitching floors to drain out doors is popular in our area as the county building department requires that floor drains at overhead doors be connected to a triple basin seperator. The triple basin seperates oil, gas, and solids and keeps them from draining into the sanitary sewer system. In case you're wondering, triple basins get to be fairly expensive: fiberglass or metal basins, extra piping, excavation, etc. They also have to lids that are readily removed for inspection and maintenance.

If you're concerned about tool boxes rolling around and cabinets not sitting level, why not leave a 3' strip of the slab level at one side or the rear of the garage and pitch from that point to the door? Most logical people aren't going to be hosing down their loaded toolboxes or storage cabinets in place so you don't need that section to drain.

Aahz is right. Lift installers will use steel or high density plastic shims to plumb the posts of a lift on a pitched floor. We did a GM dealership about two years ago with over 20 2 post lifts and 2 4 post lifts. Every single post had to be shimmed to accomdate the floor. What he didn't say is that installing a lift on a severly pitched slab WILL cause clearance issues with some cars. In our case, the dealership had to designate one row of lifts for trucks and suvs and limit cars to the other three rows. It wasn't a big deal in our case since there were so many lifts, but could be disasterous to someone at home with one lift and a low ground clearance sports car. Problem is maginifed with assymetrical lifts where lift point is closer to the front of the car.

This post makes me wonder how much pitch we have to the drains on heavy equipment repair bays and repair training bays for my current project.
 

W-Cummins

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Jan 9, 2006
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1,641
Location
Iowa
Flat if it's a shop. If I had done the 1/4 per foot it would have been over 12" lower at the door, even 1/8" per foot would be over 6" lower that would be useless for me. Not to mention I want a FLAT surface to work off. As it was/is the floor is not really flat enough for me. I think the only way to get a true flat surface is with a laser controled screed....

William....
 
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