Epoxy Coating worth it?

[TuckinToyz]

Hey guys. My new 30'x40' shop is getting ready to go up and I was trying to plan ahead on some things. My wife really wants me to get the epoxy coating done to the floor, but I'm not sure if it's worth it. For one, I do alot of welding and using cutting torches, etc, and I'm not sure if the coatings will hold up to slag, etc. Not to mention, it will be about 3 or 4 weeks befor the shop is done, then (according to the Lowe's brand epoxy's) you have to wait 30 days for the concrete to cure, and then wait another week for the epoxy to cure. I know it looks nice, but is it really worth it?

[MCraven210]

A friend of mine used the Lowe's epxoy and it is coming up. I would not recommed it.

[JohnHenrys48]

The success of epoxy coating is all in the preparation. Cleaning, degreasing, scuffing or etching and applying at the correct temperature are a must.

One problem people experience even after proper preparation is lifitng of the epoxy due to leaching of water up through the concrete slab. For new construction, it's recommended to place a water barrier between the slab and the ground. If you live in a wet climate and do not have the barrier this could be an issue. There's a process to test this, place a 2' x 2' piece of clear plastic on the slab and duct tape it all around. I think this has to be left for a minumum of 48 hours...if water vapor forms under the plastic, it's not recommend to epoxy coat.

I live in AZ and my slab does not have a vapor barrier...I didn't think it would be a problem until about a month ago...now it seems like Seattle around here...I'll be sure to report back if there are any issues.

There are several sites that discuss this in depth...hotrodders.com, ford-trucks.com etc.

Good luck,

Jim

[aero]

Looks like long term NO but might be the way to go for short term maybe befor you sell a home.

[TuckinToyz]

Thanks guys. Yes, I'm definitely thinking long-term here. I just built the house less than 2 years ago-I'm going to be here a while. I will look into it a little more since I'm not sure the quality of the lowe's product, although I know prep is the main factor in almost anything. I just want the shop built, and I can use the absorbant stuff, but the wifey is pushing me to 'do it right'. lol

[ultgar]

For a general purpose garage workshop, epoxy is the way to go. I like the 125 mil products which level out the imperfections in the concrete and with abrasive (sand) broadcast in the surface, and very slip resistant. These tend to be a bit more expensive ($4-6 per foot).

If you do a lot of electronics work in an area of the shop, consider putting down some ESD (anti-static tiles). SD

[GearHead_1]

I've seen different epoxy coated problems that have been installed last many years. I used to manage a couple of districts of automotive stores. The battery rooms in these stores used epoxy coated walls and floors. Believe me there are a lot of battery spills in these type facilities. These coverings held up extremely well.

[TuckinToyz]

Like I said before, I do alot of welding and use a torch and plasma cutter alot also. I'm just not sure if I should spend the money for floor coating if it's going to get ruined by welding/cutting slag, etc.

[red caddy]

I talked to a guy yesterday, that told me about a fab shop he worked in that rolled out boiled linseed oil on a new concrete slab, (30 days old) and re coated once a year. claimed it was stain resistant, easy to clean/sweep and non-slip, and welding /cutting slag scraped right off. any body else heard/seen this used?thanks, RED

[OzCop]

I dropped a 5 speed tranny off the jack while removing it, and being mad at myself for allowing that to happen, I dragged it out from under the car not caring what it would do to the coating...actually, it didn't even scratch the finish....

[DiMisa1977]

what about the Griot's product? I have been considering this.

[Luckydevil]

what about the Griot's product? I have been considering this.

I was reading about it on their site. Turns out it is just a "concrete paint" and not an epoxy.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1=L1_3000&L2=L2_3080&SKU=90011

[Haney]

Has anybody tried any of this coating????

www.ucoatit.com

It is priced reasonalbe and in the FAQ section of the site, it says that welding slag and grinding is not a problem....

[OH-MAN]

Like I said before, I do alot of welding and use a torch and plasma cutter alot also. I'm just not sure if I should spend the money for floor coating if it's going to get ruined by welding/cutting slag, etc.


With this large of a shop set aside a "dirty area" for the welding and coat the rest.
The coating is great the first time you spill a little oil or fluid on it. The stuff keeps it from staining like the concrete. It is also easier to clean. If you are on the floor working you can move around so much easier due to it being slicker. Oh yeah a light color reflects light much better.

[Rex Ruby]

Has anybody tried any of this coating????

www.ucoatit.com

It is priced reasonalbe and in the FAQ section of the site, it says that welding slag and grinding is not a problem....

When I built my garage I did a fair amount of research in to the options and decided UC was the way to go. BIG MISTAKE! It has lifted and UC's warranty is useless. They offered a patch kit or sell me enough to recoat the floor at 25% off.

Eventually I will recoat it with Rustoleum's industrial epoxy, the Rustoleum's rep said it will go over the UC without a problem. It's available at MAB paint stores.

[GearHead_1]

When I built my garage I did a fair amount of research in to the options and decided UC was the way to go. BIG MISTAKE! It has lifted and UC's warranty is useless. They offered a patch kit or sell me enough to recoat the floor at 25% off.

Eventually I will recoat it with Rustoleum's industrial epoxy, the Rustoleum's rep said it will go over the UC without a problem. It's available at MAB paint stores.

If you are having a problem with U-Coat lifting, why would you trust it as a base for your next product? Just curious.

[TTU]

Hope we're not too late w/qaulity info . . .
I have a commercial grade epoxy floor in my 32x48 shop professionally installed. It does hold up to just about anything, but hot slag and welding sparks will mawr the floor. I don't do much welding and cutting in my shop. I use fireblankets to catch the worst of the sparks and slag. If you have a large shop, you may want to consider epoxy for your workbench area, but not in a welding and torch area. Will be posting photos of my Garage-Ma-Hall shortly.

[Rex Ruby]

If you are having a problem with U-Coat lifting, why would you trust it as a base for your next product? Just curious.

I don't. I will probably rent one of the machines that grind old coatings off.

[PatrickW]

boiled linseed oil on a new concrete slab, (30 days old) and re coated once a year.I used to work for UPS when I was a kid, and they did something similar on their floors.

I asked the maintenance guy how they made a concrete floor so shiney, and he said it was "Tung Oil". They recoated it about once a year, and they went over it daily with a Zamboni machine. They'd even wax it when VIP's visited.

That concrete that all those trucks drove over looked better than my wife's kitchen floor.

- Patrick

[bmwpower]

I used to work for UPS when I was a kid, and they did something similar on their floors.

I asked the maintenance guy how they made a concrete floor so shiney, and he said it was "Tung Oil". They recoated it about once a year, and they went over it daily with a Zamboni machine. They'd even wax it when VIP's visited.

That concrete that all those trucks drove over looked better than my wife's kitchen floor.

- Patrick

I bet it was fun when it was wet...

[DynoDave]

I used to work for UPS when I was a kid, and they did something similar on their floors.

I asked the maintenance guy how they made a concrete floor so shiney, and he said it was "Tung Oil". They recoated it about once a year, and they went over it daily with a Zamboni machine. They'd even wax it when VIP's visited.

That concrete that all those trucks drove over looked better than my wife's kitchen floor.

- Patrick

I've seen some factory floors with that dark, wet looking concrete. Was told it was just a wax. Not sure where you would get such a thing.

[paris401]

i used the u-coat-it-af 3 weeks ago, medium gray, with deco-flakes... looks real good, tho its been a short time... we'll see after a year or two...

[PatrickW]

I bet it was fun when it was wet...
It was not slick at all. Not when wet with water. Maybe if there was oil on it, it would be. But I never saw anyone slip on it.

OSHA was a big concern, and they didn't stand for having a slippery floor. It was not a problem at all.

- Patrick

[muddy]

I worked for Penske for five years with rusty wallace, among others and in the shop that housed the showcar program they put down a two part epoxy that came from sherwin williams that held up great.
When I built my own shop when living in missouri, I used the same paint and it held up great....but it sure cost alot more than I see nowadays. You might check out sherwin williams........... Keith

[DynoDave]

Thanks for the tip, Keith. And Welcome aboard!

[river1]

what about the Griot's product? I have been considering this.

awsome message board :rocker: :bubbrubb: :bubbrubb: :rocker:


i used groit floor paint. LOVE IT :thumbup:
i painted it 12 years ago and it still looks brand new when i mop it. it is a two part waterbased epoxy. i have swapped a couple of engines and other rough to floor surface jobs over the years and ONLY two things have marred the finish. one is when i welded something that was LAYING on it so it got direct heat. the floor got a few SMALL burn marks that aren't noticable at all if you didn't know they were there. the only other flaw is when i dropped a large wrench and the concrete broke and took the paint with it, but you can't fault the paint for that. the only thing is you have to follow the directions exactly :see: to get good service out of it. i have painted 6 other garages with it since then and all have gotten good service out of it. when my dad got a new house 8 years ago he wanted to use a cheaper paint and i told him with the groits we know what we are getting and we know it will last. my father, like most of you i'm sure, meant the world to me and i would not have recommended anything to him that i wasn't completely satisfied with.

later jim

[infinii]

For a general purpose garage workshop, epoxy is the way to go. I like the 125 mil products which level out the imperfections in the concrete and with abrasive (sand) broadcast in the surface, and very slip resistant. These tend to be a bit more expensive ($4-6 per foot).

If you do a lot of electronics work in an area of the shop, consider putting down some ESD (anti-static tiles). SD

Can you please tell us exactly which product you are referring to? I need a coating and durability and anti-slip are my biggest requirements. I won't be welding or anything, I just want a nicer looking floor that is easier to clean and is not slippery when wet in the wintertime.

[GearHead_1]

I've just received the UCoatIt product and plan on doing a 1600 sq. ft. 3 car garage floor in the very near future. I plan on taking a few pictures and reviewing this product. Wish me luck.

[kartracer55]

No, I wouldnt. Instead Id seek to have an ULTRA smooth concrete floor put in... like homedepot smooth. It will give you a nice looking surface that will hold up WAY better than the epoxy coat, and you wont have to worry about welding sparks or brake fluid.

Jim