Drill Doctor

[Major Ramifications]

I have a Drill Doctor 500, and I love it! It works as advertised and is a well-made American product. The frustration and expense of dealing with dull bits is a thing of the past. If I find a bit to be a little slow in cutting, I can sharpen it in the middle of a project in a few minutes. Sweet!

[Luckydevil]

That sounds pretty cool. How does it work? Any pics? Cost?

I usually just buy new bits because they are pretty cheap. This may be an option though.

[OI812]

Luke

I think they are around 140. The model I (750) have can do up to a 3/4" bit.

Here is a link to the drill doctor page (http://www.drilldoctor.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=58&Itemid=76)

Holy cow have they went up in price. I remember I paid like 139.99, and now its 200. Still a good deal if you can sharpen alot of bits.

[Major Ramifications]

I got my model 500 (same as 750 without the 3/4" chuck) from Sears a couple of years ago for $100. They were considerably higher on the Drill Doctor website. Yes, it doesn't cost much to replace one bit, but by the time you get several dull ones in the set, it makes more sense to buy a whole new set. The ones I used to buy were $100 a set, which is a lot of money for me. Now, the only reason I ever replace one is if I break one (the drill falls off the ladder, etc.)
The best part is always having a sharp, fast cutting bit.

http://www.drilldoctor.com/

[Rollman]

Sears has the 750 Pro for $159.99 3/32 - 3/4 inch bits

[GearHead_1]

Shop around, you should be able to get one for under $125 (750). They're a great tool, I use mine a couple of times a week.

Here's one at a fairly good price. Amazon claims they'll meet their price plus beat it by 10% of the difference. I'm sure there are places with even better prices.

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/welcome.pl?ref=froogle+page=/a/ab/drill-doctor/drill-doctor_750.htm

[Weekend_warrior]

Will it turn an old dull drill bit into a left handed one?

[Satatic]

I want one! I'm always trying to drill holes in metal, key word trying.

[OI812]

Will it turn an old dull drill bit into a left handed one?


I would have to say no. I don't remember anything about that in the instructions.

[GearHead_1]

Will it turn an old dull drill bit into a left handed one?

No. The flutes are going in the wrong direction. You can buy a chuck that will sharpen left handed bits though.

[OI812]

No. The flutes are going in the wrong direction. You can buy a chuck that will sharpen left handed bits though.


Drill doctor has one of those now?

[GearHead_1]

Drill doctor has one of those now?
Yep! It's on their accessories page.

[Rickster]

My brother in law brought over his new drill doctor during our July 4'th BBQ and we sharpened up a few of my drill bits ...... All I got to say is I got to get me one of those!

[kartracer55]

I have been contemplating getting one for a while. The only bit size I really go through like no tommorow is 1/8 bits because I pilot everything in that size. I got a 10 pack of usa made cobalt ones for free so Im set there. I cant say I use one size more than another aside form the 1/8 bit, and I usualy ream all my holes to the correct size for a tight fit. The Way I see it, I can get a hell of alot of 1/8 drill bits for that $100 I will spend on the drill doctor, and I have gotten pretty damn good at sharpening the larger sizes by hand.

Jim

[Luckydevil]

kartracer- how do you sharpen the bits by hand?

[kartracer55]

Well Ill try to explain it, but its more or less somethign you need to see. Once you get the hang of it, it isnt to difficult.

First thing you need to know, is that its done on a grinder, but I think you already knew that. For our purposes, lets assume were sharpening a 118 degree standard bit. Its best to start out with a bit abotu 1/4 inch, and dont usea good one. I you have a HF near you, pick up a couple.

First, you need to mark a 59 degree line on your tool rest. (this can be done by using a brand new 118 degree drill bit as a guide, and placing one cutting edge flush with the grinding wheel, then marking your line) It shoudl be 59 degrees from the face of the wheel, and, if you are lookign head on, it traves to your left from the center of the wheel out. Next, you are going to want to stand in line with this line. grab the shank of the drill with your right hand, and place your index finger on the tool rest, then place the bit on your index finger, and hold it like that. angle the shank up about 10 degrees, and place the cutting edge against the grinder, and slowly lower the shank. Your hand will make a natural arc that creates the lip clearance needed to allow the bit to cut.

its kind of hard to explain

Twist the bit and do it again on the other edge. Make sure you don get it too hot, becuase it is like a chisel... once its blue its done. Usualy, Ill make one pass on each cuttign edge, then dip it in ice water. Its not hot enough to temper it or anything, but it cools the steel down a little faster. Also, you need to make sure that you are grinding the edges evenly, otherwise, when you try to drill a hole it will be all oblong and stuff because the cutting edges are not equal. A drill point gauge is very helpful in making sure you have the angles right. Start off wiht a reall cheap HF bit, and go through the motions with the grinder off. Make sure that you mantain full contact all the way across the bit whill doing this too. Once you feel you have gotten fairly decent at it, try "shortening" the bit. by grinding the the bit down, without changing any angles. Check your progress with ad rill point gauge. Then, once you feel your good at this, sharpen the bit flat and try to make your own point. It will tkae quite a bit of practice, anda few bits but you will get it. Also, If you could get a piece of 1/4 aluminum. All you need is a little 4x4 square. You are going to want to drill a hole in it after you think you have sharpened the bit sucessfully, to see if it is cutting unusually, or off center.

For a 135 degree bit, mark a line that is 67-68 degrees. A split point can be made by using the edge of the grinding wheel.

Good luck and dont give up!

Jim

[GearHead_1]

Gentleman,

I too have sharpened bits on a grinder for over 20 years. I can do it as well as most. It might be a stretch to ask you to trust me on this one. Once you've used a Drill Doctor you wonder why you've even tried to do this on a grinder. You might be able to buy a lot of inexpensive bits for less than the price of a Drill Doctor but a 29 piece set of high quality cobalt bits, Snap-on or Mac bits will set you back more than the price of the DD. This item is worth the expense.

[kartracer55]

Be careful with snap on bits. They are made by VA, or at least they were at one point. They are overpriced garbage. VA stuff sucks.

If you want really good bits, go with Chicago latrobe, cleavland, even dewalt or bosch are good bits.

I have found the secret to keeping bits sharp is to use them in a drill press to eliminate changes in pressure on the cutting edges laterally, Use a good cutting oil, predrill so the web doesnt have to work as much, hench wearing out the cutting edges, and to calculate the correct speed for the material, the bit material, and any coatings on them.

I have been considering a drill doctor for some time now, but I dont dull bits too often, and I am good about using centerdrills and drilling pilot holes, so I dont mind doin it by hand.

Jim

[GearHead_1]

I was under the impression that Snap On's current bits were made by Irwin. Shows you what I know. It is my experience however that almost any cobalt bit beats a titanium nitride coated bit and as you said a pilot hole is your friend.

[kartracer55]

They might be made by irwin, (hanson) which are good, but Thier taps are made by vermont american. Identical to craftsman, which are also rebadged VA.

There is a big debate about TiN vs cobalt. TiN bits are simply hss bits coated with TiN. The Coating is harder than cobalt on the rockwell scale. The problem is that once you resharpen them, you have a drill bit with pretty flutes and plain HSS cutting edges. Cobalt bits are harder than HSS but not as hard as TiN,TiCN, or TiAN and whatever the hell coating they invent next.

I too usually buy cobalt bits, but I have a fair share of HSS bits as well. I am going oto buy a jet drill press soon, and so I am going to get a good set of bits for it. I was thinking 1/16-1/2 X 64ths in cobalt, then a set of a-z in cobalt. Id just get a plain set of HSS wire guage drills though. I really want one of those fancy boxes, but wire gauge bits are the least used because they are so small, so there is no sense in me spending all that money for a cobalt bit I will use a few times.

I too get all caught up in the whole "cobalt or TiN bits are the ONLY bits that will cut steel" thing. But ya gotta remember. Back in the day before they alloyed the M-42 bits and got the coating all worked out, they were using plain HSS bits to drill steel. They still get the job done. Its not like they wont work. heck, before HSS they used Carbon steel beits (ee gads batman!)

One thing that is good about TiN bits is that youc an run them 10% faster than HSS, which allows you to run a large bit ona drill press, where the Press couldnt get slow enough for an HSS bit.

Jim

[outlawbob]

When it comes to drill bits, I'm ambidextrious.

[Fast Orange]

I've had a 750 for a few months and swear by it.It took a few bits to get the technique down,and a very dull or chipped bit may take a while to get right,but it's the best I've found.
I saw recently that Drill Doctor is coming out with a heavier,commercial model with a few changes in the bit holders and a metal housing.Thats probably why the original versions are selling for less $ now.

George :cool:

[knucklehead]

had my 750 for a few years now, i cant live without it!

[RonG]

Started looking for a 750Pro, and found out it has been discontinued for the new 750X, which is the newer version and now one chuck does up to 3/4" bits. Found this on coastaltool.com for $115 and amazon.com for $120 (free shipping).

MSRP is $198, so these are great deals.

Ron

[stimpy]

the boss man has the 750 and we just replaced the second wheel in it ( hes hard on bits and he buys used bits all the time ) I sharpened themlike Kracer does was tought in machine shop in H.S. , the boss used to do it also as he was a driller at Caterpiller , he was sceptical about the doctor but bought one and hasn't used the grinder since (except for the S&D bits ) every time I turn around hes getting used bits somewhere ( fleas and swaps) and he resharpens them and I guess sells them . one thing you forgot to mention K racer is its best to use the finest stone possible for sharpening the bits it keeps them cooler when cutting the flanks, I prefer to use a cup style tool wheel as its easier to see looking at the side of the bit while cutting

[Willy Victor]

I have the model 300 and it works for me, only takes a few seconds and you have a brand new bit.

Willy Victor:beer:

[D-Cal]

Bought a DD 350 today, thumbs up. My first bit turned out perfect. Drilled two holes in 1/4" mild steel with a previously dull bit.

For kicks I tried hand sharpening one before using the DD. Wasn't really that hard, but took so long I have to wonder why you'd bother if you drill a lot of metal.

[wantedabiggergarage]

Someone sent me a link, Amazon has the 750 for $99. Don't know how long it will last.