View Full Version : Air compressor repair


CatchAll_shop
08-25-2010, 08:33 AM
I recently got a free air compressor from my father in law. It is a Craftsman 30 gallon, 5Hp, 240v/15a unit, model:917.176951. I'm yet to fire it up and he said it worked fine....when he last used it 14 years ago. My concern is, when I opened the drain plug on the air tank, oil dripped out. This leads me to believe the pump seals have deteriorated, which I know is typical for units that sit unused for years. I assuming that I will need to either replace the pump or rebuild it. My questions are: Has anyone on this forum repaired a compressor with favorable results, is there anywhere to send it for repair (besides Sears), is it worth putting a couple hundred into or should I put that money towards a new/ newer compressor. I have a local tool center that agreed to bench the compressor and I could at least see what the extent of the damage is. However, this tool center deals with more industrial tools and they would function test it, but not offer repair services for it. I also know that I can still get all the pump rebuild kits. Again, I'm just trying to weigh out if it's worth doing. Thank-you for your time and input-Kevin

Professur
08-25-2010, 08:50 AM
Over 15 years old ... I'd want to consider fixing it.

onewaydave
08-25-2010, 09:24 AM
I've tossed one little portable circa 1960's cause I couldn't find parts.

I've had one rebuilt by a shop out in central Kansas 'cause I didn't have the time at the time. Pricey but cheaper than new.

I've got a Curtis something or other in the que to repair. I priced an overhaul kit and it cost more that I paid for the compressor new. I'll tear into it one day and try to just fix what's broken.

The answer to your question is it depends. Try to ID the compressor, Sears put somebody else s compressor on. Then you can get an idea of parts availability. Not much different than working on a lawn mower engine.

Dave.

Possum
08-25-2010, 11:56 AM
15 amps current draw seems pretty light for a true 5 hp motor. Hopefully the compressor isn't one of the cheap over rated units. If it is I would just run it as is. What RPM is the motor?

Charles (in GA)
08-25-2010, 03:08 PM
15 amps at 240v is alot of draw. All oil filled pump compressors put a little oil out with the air. Personally, I'd put fresh oil in the pump, and run it. If it pumps up fine, without taking a long time, I'd use it.

There are no seals that could deteriorate that would allow oil to migrate to the tank. The oil gets in the tank via the compressed air. I have a 1970 or so vintage Craftsman 1 hp that has always put out oily water in the tank. It works fine and doesn't hurt anything.

Just use the Da** thing and don't worry about it till it breaks, which I'll bet is never.

Charles

Skin
08-25-2010, 07:59 PM
double check your model number, doesnt appear to be correct. You should be able to plug it into searsparts.com and look up parts for it.

A miniscule amount of oil will make it into the air supply but oil should not be pooling in the tank. Its possible there is either too much in it or if its been used hard the rings may be worn.

If there is a major problem with it, e.g. broken guts/scored cylinders, i'd probably use it till it self destructs. Fixing major stuff like that usually isnt worth it cost wise and certainly not once you factor in your time. I'm working on one at the moment that chewed through both connecting rods. Fixing it is a labor of love, otherwise it would of went into the scrap heap without a second thought.

Torque1st
08-25-2010, 11:52 PM
Oil in the receiver is normal with compressors. The piston rings are never 100%. Just change the oil in the pump with regular compressor oil and run it. 240VAC single/split phase at 15A would make it a "real" 3HP motor that was typically overrated on consumer units. Usually you will see the word "special" somewhere on the motor tag to get around the NEMA rules.

Just run the unit and think of your father in law. :thumbup:

Indy_500
08-25-2010, 11:59 PM
Hoping i'm not high jacking your thread, but i have an old 1/2 hp 7.5 gallon montgomery ward horizontal compressor i recently tore apart painted and put back together it ran awesome for about a total of 12 hours in 3 days. Just yesterday it started to run funny. The big pully end with the piston and stuff (i do not know technical terms with compressors) kinda starts to "stick" and doesn't move freely causing the electrical part that truly drives the belt to spin without spinning the belt. I have to start sprinning the big pulley by hand to get it to go, or just let it cool down and start over again. I also have LOTS AND LOTS of oil in the tank. Everytime i open the drain plug, i get oil all over my hand. There is a small leak near the pressure guage which i cannot fix because the "nut" on this thing is plastic and when you put a wrench on it you just round out this plastic part. I just put some duct tape around it and it's fine, it would take about an hour to drain completly by itself so i can deal with it, but whats making the big pulley "half-seize"? its full of oil, its actually kinda of overfilled, when open the fill plug oil comes out, do i have too much oil doing this?

Skin
08-26-2010, 12:29 AM
yes, sounds like you're building too much compression in the crankcase and in turn are stalling it. Do you have a picture of the oil fill? Curious if you can guage the correct amount off it.

altaquip
08-26-2010, 07:12 AM
Altaquip has 27 locations nationwide that provide service, maintenance and repair for outdoor power equipment, tools, generators, compressors, powerwashers, etc. Call 888-732-3919 or visit www.altaquip.com

CatchAll_shop
08-26-2010, 12:10 PM
Thanks for the input!
Skin- I did mis-type the model# it is: 919.176951. I did go to searsparts.com and download a manual and parts list-thanks.

Possum-I'm not sure what the rpms for this motor. I'm guessing around 1750 based on similar speced motors. Again, I'm purely speculating.

My father-in-law had this compressor in his business years ago. I'm not sure if it was considered an industrial / pro-sumer unit or not.

One update I have since I started the thread is that I have been referred to a local guy that specializes in repairing compressors, small engines and pneumatic tools. After talking to him, I've decided to drop it off with him and let him get it up to speed.

Thanks again for the input-Kevin

altaquip
08-30-2010, 07:36 AM
What zipcode do you live in? I just wanted to see if we had a location near you. Also, we do all the repairs for Home Depot, so you can also drop it off there.

Tantara
08-30-2010, 07:41 AM
My neighbor gave me a compressor that had been run out of oil. I rebuilt it and it runs great. There are web sites that sell discount parts they are significantly less than buying from a dealer.

Brad

goody4her
07-16-2011, 03:16 PM
Can one convert the Craftsman air compressor (919.176951) so it can run on 110 volts? I got one the other day and it runs on 220 and I do not have 220. I contacted a contractor and they can add a line for $400, defeats the whole purpose of buying used. I love it kicks 10 scfm at 90 and 12 at 40, it looks like a beast. I know some models are dual voltage, but I see people add 220, not the opposite way. Where the cord goes in, it has a black box with some schematics, but no where does it say one can use a 110 volt cord. The lady I bought it said it could be done, I am searching for the wisdom out there. It is a Craftsman 5 HP, 30 gallon air compressor. I really want to keep it, but cannot afford the electrician like that. BTW, when I say "convert" I mean replace the 220 cord on the compressor with a 110!

chrommagman
07-16-2011, 04:39 PM
Can one convert the Craftsman air compressor (919.176951) so it can run on 110 volts? I got one the other day and it runs on 220 and I do not have 220. I contacted a contractor and they can add a line for $400, defeats the whole purpose of buying used. I love it kicks 10 scfm at 90 and 12 at 40, it looks like a beast. I know some models are dual voltage, but I see people add 220, not the opposite way. Where the cord goes in, it has a black box with some schematics, but no where does it say one can use a 110 volt cord. The lady I bought it said it could be done, I am searching for the wisdom out there. It is a Craftsman 5 HP, 30 gallon air compressor. I really want to keep it, but cannot afford the electrician like that. BTW, when I say "convert" I mean replace the 220 cord on the compressor with a 110!

if you could send a pic of the unit it would be handy!!
but if it's belt driven just follow the wire that goes from the pressure switch to the motor and there should be a plate that can come off. take off that plate and you should see the - and + wires. and if it's duel volt 2 other terminals that aren't wired to any thing that is if it's duel volt. then on the motor there should be a label that should show you how to wire it for 110V

Milton Shaw
07-16-2011, 05:53 PM
If its sat for 14 years no telling how old the tank is. The tank should be hydrostatic tested to be sure its not a bomb waiting to explode when you get it pumped up. See the thread here on a compressor tank blowup. If you are getting it fixed have them do the hydrostatic test first. Old compressor tanks are a killer if they are rusted nearly through.

Bill Crowell
07-16-2011, 07:14 PM
"Can one convert the Craftsman air compressor (919.176951) so it can run on 110 volts?"

Good compressor. The pump is probably made by Campbell-Hausfeld, and is pretty indestructible if you keep oil in it. It would not be a good idea to use a 110-volt motor because it would draw twice as much current as the 240-volt motor and might overload the 110-volt circuit. It is really easy to add a 240 volt circuit. Why don't you get a friend to show you how to do it?

goody4her
07-16-2011, 07:44 PM
Here is the pics of my Craftsman 5 HP, 30 gallon (919.176951), I truly do NOT want to sell it. It has great specs, 10 scfm at 90 and 12 scfm at 40. I also paid a great price for it. I do see a black box where the 220 volt goes in, but it does not have any directions or suggestions how to wire it so one can use a 110 volt cable. I am thinking it night not run right. Thanks everyone for the comments, I love garage journal, plenty of experienced people on here.


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goody4her
07-16-2011, 07:50 PM
The bottom has no rust, but of course I hate to blow up, not the way I would want to die, a 25 year old blonde, maybe, but not my own compressor. I hate to be sounding like a cheap skate, but I have no idea where to take it and I do not want to pay someone $100.00 to test it, economy is bad everywhere and everyone is trying to hustle and make a buck.

Torque1st
07-16-2011, 09:59 PM
Post a picture of the label on the motor and of the electric plug.

chrommagman
07-16-2011, 10:26 PM
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac271/azmicro/2011-07-16_1907.png

see that arrow! you have to take that plate off and see if there are other terminals other then the ones that the lead wires are connected to. if so it is a duel voltage motor. BUT if there is NOT other terminals you don't have a duel volt motor.
Idk if you can put a new capacitor that is for 110V and put it on it or not but I have a done a no no and took a 110 cord and switched out the 220 cord just to see if the motor worked and it didn't pop the circuit. you can try that and see if it works. But I can't say if it will or not.

Torque1st
07-17-2011, 12:03 AM
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac271/azmicro/2011-07-16_1907.png

see that arrow! you have to take that plate off and see if there are other terminals other then the ones that the lead wires are connected to. if so it is a duel voltage motor. BUT if there is NOT other terminals you don't have a duel volt motor.
Idk if you can put a new capacitor that is for 110V and put it on it or not but I have a done a no no and took a 110 cord and switched out the 220 cord just to see if the motor worked and it didn't pop the circuit. you can try that and see if it works. But I can't say if it will or not.
Don't pay any attention to the above. :shocking: :headscrat :lol_hitti

chrommagman
07-17-2011, 12:47 AM
Don't pay any attention to the above. :shocking: :headscrat :lol_hitti


what are you talking about ? that is how you switch it over ... so what ever

theoldwizard1
07-17-2011, 02:48 AM
what are you talking about ? that is how you switch it over ... so what ever

Switching from 220 to 110 means you will be drawing twice the current. With a 5 hp motor my guess is that could be around 30 amps :scared: as you approach your max pressure.

Anything over 1.0-1.5 hp really should be run on 220.

theoldwizard1
07-17-2011, 02:53 AM
Just run the unit and think of your father in law. :thumbup:

As long as there was oil in the pump and no water in the tank .... run it !

Torque1st
07-17-2011, 03:26 AM
As long as there was oil in the pump and no water in the tank .... run it !
This goody4her new guy tacked his question onto the end of a really old thread. This is a prime example of why that should not be done. A new thread should have been started.

There are lots of nice pictures of this Craftsman unit but no picture of the most important part that relates to his question, -the motor nameplate. The nameplate will display the motor voltage and current ratings and also give the power draw which will show the real HP not the bogus advertised HP.

Checking for extra terminals or blindly rewiring for 120V is irrelevant and dangerous.

As a general rule a DUAL voltage motor will draw double the 240V current at 120V. Theoretically a person can run a 1 or more HP motor on a standard 120V circuit but the practical limit is about 3/4HP without worrying about blowing a breaker on start-up. Even a 3/4HP motor should have a 25A breaker.

It costs more to run a heavy duty dedicated 120V circuit for an appliance than it does just to run a 240V circuit due to the heavier and more costly wires.

goody4her
07-17-2011, 02:58 PM
I updated the pictures, I forgot to take a pic of the plug, but trust me, I know its 220, one of the terminals looks different. I am sorry I am new to this and I did not know I can start a new thread, I also thought there was already information on this subject.

goody4her
07-17-2011, 04:33 PM
Ok, I need some expertise. Here is my thoughts, I am thinking of selling the above compressor and getting a Craftsman Professional series two stage that runs on 110V. The tank is black, I assume the CFM is about 5 or 6, enough to power my impact wrench. My other choice is to keep this pump and get an electrician to re-wire my garage and install a 220, what is the best choice? Electrician charges me anywhere from 200-400 just for the line. I got a guy on craiglist that offers me 250 for the pump. The other pump cost about 275, but I am sure I can wiggle 250 on him, what does the group think?

Torque1st
07-17-2011, 06:09 PM
13A at 230V would make it a shade over 2HP motor. Consumer advertised ratings are always high. The motor is single voltage only.

If you intend to stay around that house for a while it may be advantageous to install a 230V service in the garage. The choice is yours. :)

goody4her
07-17-2011, 07:02 PM
A guy is selling a Craftsman professional, model # 919.167780, should I sell my red one for this one, or should I install a 220 line and keep the red one? Which unit is a better compressor? Thanks

goody4her
07-19-2011, 07:58 AM
I love your expertise.

chrommagman
07-19-2011, 01:52 PM
goody4her:

keep the one you have and install the 220V line. the compressor you have now (the red one) will out last any POS that they make today!!

goody4her
07-19-2011, 09:10 PM
Thanks for the advice, what is POS (piece of sh@T)? I went to two Sears stores and they did look cheezie.

chrommagman
07-19-2011, 10:59 PM
what is POS (piece of sh@T)?.

yes!! like you saw today the compressors that they make today are crappy

if you don't wan't to wire the 220, just get a new motor!!! they are 200 or 300 bucks but if you get the new motor that is set for 110V you can use it any were :)

goody4her
07-20-2011, 09:47 AM
Well, its like a mute point, but this guy on craigslist was selling a Craftsman Professional series, dual stage compressor. I think it was 20 or 27 gallon, 3.5HP. It is an older Sears model, and it ran on 220. He wanted 250, but this guy was a loser, before the sale he was talking to me all nice and said he would call back, but this loser I assume showed his compressor to someone else and emailed me he sold it after I told him I would go once he got home on Sunday. Nothing illegal, but I would never dare tell someone to come at 6 and than email them at 4 and tell them its sold.

chrommagman
07-20-2011, 10:09 AM
Well, its like a mute point, but this guy on craigslist was selling a Craftsman Professional series, dual stage compressor. I think it was 20 or 27 gallon, 3.5HP. It is an older Sears model, and it ran on 220. He wanted 250, but this guy was a loser, before the sale he was talking to me all nice and said he would call back, but this loser I assume showed his compressor to someone else and emailed me he sold it after I told him I would go once he got home on Sunday. Nothing illegal, but I would never dare tell someone to come at 6 and than email them at 4 and tell them its sold.


I had that shit happen to me!! guess what I was going to buy from this D-bag... a air compressor. it was a old speedaire 20 gal. had a older pump that looked
like one of those that those old craftsmen ones. but yeah that is the most
unman like thing to do!!

Nick_Escalante
07-22-2011, 06:44 PM
I got a 22 gallon CH from a friend, and it 'died' on me one day. Opened it up and noticed that a bolt broke off the pully that drives the pump. Ordered the bolt online for $5, drilled out the old bolt.

Also, got a fan that was destroyed, another $5. At first, I didn't even realize there was suppose to be a fan there until I got the schematics online. In the pics, you can see the remains of the fan without the props, just a white plastic ring.

While doing this, I wondered how many people throw away these units when this failure happens? Initially, I said, 'damn, no wonder why he gave this thing to me...." lol.. It was a fairly easy fix for a home garage guy like myself.

The new bolt was black steel, unlike the original, which leads me to beleive that CH made some updates on the stress of that specific bolt. Probably high-failure rate.

Also, I had the air intake line blowout a wk after I got it. It was an easy fix with some compression fittings.