Which specialized brake tools for a non-mechanic?

[The Rusty Gear]

Since I only do brakes once every 2 or 3 years, I thought I could get by without any of the special tools. Boy was I wrong. What is out there? What’s worthwhile to get? A tool for the retainer springs? Those gave me the most grief. I would have gladly spent $20 for a tool to help me out. I didn’t need any special tools for the calipers because I just swapped in rebuilt ones.

I’m thinking that the local HF equivalent (Princess Auto) would be a good place for most of these because a) They are probably better than nothing, and b) I will only use them every couple of years . . .

So, what should an Average Joe look at getting for helping him out “next time” he does brakes (shoes/pads)? . . .and it it is not obvious to a rookie like me, how do they work?

If it matters for which tools, I have an ’02 Impreza, ’88 4Runner and soon to be an ’02(?) 4Runner (Still looking)

[Piper]

For brakes I have 2 tools that I use but probably own several more. The 1st is the adjuster screw tool which looks like a 2 ended slot screwdriver with one end bent. The 2nd is the spring removal tool (for drums) which also has on one end of the handle a barrel to push the shoe retention springs into place. These I use every time, the other things I don't. I've worked on Jeeps, mazdas and fords so YMMV. The other thing you need is a bleeder kit, and it depends on how much you want to spend, assuming you're doing this yourself. If you have a friend a piece of tubing and a glass jar work fine. As for using the shoe retainer spring tool, I don't have much joy with it. I usually just use a pair of needle nose pliers to compress the spring allowing the pin to slip thru the slot. Once the pin slips thru I just use my free hand to turn it. This works really well. I've never had the spring tool work properly.

As a proud Canadian, I find the "once or twice" a year tools from Princess Auto to be fine. I'd never trust them with air tools, ratchets, bigger, more frequently used stuff. Having said that, I do own a few less used impact sockets which continually amaze me that they've stayed in great shape despite abuse.

The way I see brakes on a final note is, buy quality parts, buy the tools you need to do the job right, make sure you torque the various parts properly. If you don't have the manual or alldata subscription get it. Brakes are pretty important. If you compare DIY vs stealership you are way ahead financially so you can purchase the tools and better parts and still come out ahead.
Piper

[The Rusty Gear]

For brakes I have 2 tools that I use but probably own several more. The 1st is the adjuster screw tool which looks like a 2 ended slot screwdriver with one end bent. The 2nd is the spring removal tool (for drums) which also has on one end of the handle a barrel to push the shoe retention springs into place. These I use every time, the other things I don't. I've worked on Jeeps, mazdas and fords so YMMV. The other thing you need is a bleeder kit, and it depends on how much you want to spend, assuming you're doing this yourself. If you have a friend a piece of tubing and a glass jar work fine. As for using the shoe retainer spring tool, I don't have much joy with it. I usually just use a pair of needle nose pliers to compress the spring allowing the pin to slip thru the slot. Once the pin slips thru I just use my free hand to turn it. This works really well. I've never had the spring tool work properly.

As a proud Canadian, I find the "once or twice" a year tools from Princess Auto to be fine. I'd never trust them with air tools, ratchets, bigger, more frequently used stuff. Having said that, I do own a few less used impact sockets which continually amaze me that they've stayed in great shape despite abuse.

The way I see brakes on a final note is, buy quality parts, buy the tools you need to do the job right, make sure you torque the various parts properly. If you don't have the manual or alldata subscription get it. Brakes are pretty important. If you compare DIY vs stealership you are way ahead financially so you can purchase the tools and better parts and still come out ahead.
Piper

I guess I should have mentioned, I DO have the spoon adjuster (Would not have gotten the drums off without it!) and a one-man bleeder which has worked well for me so far.

“Spring removal tool” that’s for the spring which pulls both shoes together, right? That was the second most difficult part. With a lot of grunting and a pair of Vice Grips, I was eventually able to remove that spring.

[Piper]

I guess I should have mentioned, I DO have the spoon adjuster (Would not have gotten the drums off without it!) and a one-man bleeder which has worked well for me so far.

“Spring removal tool” that’s for the spring which pulls both shoes together, right? That was the second most difficult part. With a lot of grunting and a pair of Vice Grips, I was eventually able to remove that spring.


Yep, that's the one. Either that or a large box of band aids and a wife that'll tell you "that's why you take your car to the shop" yada yada yada.

Piper

[Canadian Charlie]

Have you searched eBay? I have found all my brake tools there like the Blue Point caliper kit, Matco brake service set and Blue Point brake bleader

[PAToyota]

I was so overjoyed when I "discovered" the spring removal tool after doing it with vice grips a few times... Other than that I haven't had too many problems just making do with what I have on hand.

[Vincent Vega]

Must haves:
Drum:
Spring removal/installer tool
Shoe retainer spring tool
Adjusting spoon.
Disk:
Large C-Clamp
Piston retract tool
Hanger Wire to hang caliper from.
Both:
high quality bleeder wrenches or six point socket.
Plastic Peanut butter jar with hole in cover for plastic hose
BrakeClean
Catch pan

[ba614]

Must haves:
Drum:
Spring removal/installer tool
Shoe retainer spring tool
Adjusting spoon.
Disk:
Large C-Clamp
Piston retract tool
Hanger Wire to hang caliper from.
Both:
high quality bleeder wrenches or six point socket.
Plastic Peanut butter jar with hole in cover for plastic hose
BrakeClean
Catch pan
:beer: you got it covered

[The Rusty Gear]

Great list, thanks!

So what's the large C-Clamp for? I thought that is what you use if you don't have a "piston retract tool" ?

And the Spring removal/install tool, you're talking about that weird looking set of pliers? I've seen those, but cannot figure out how the heck you are supposed to use them. Maybe I'm just thick! :)

[djjack]

I really like my power bleeder.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

It is great for flushing lines and getting the air out.

I'll second the brake spring pliers. They save a lot of frustration and pain. I don't know why I waited so long to get these.

A digital camera is handy to photo the drum brakes before you take them apart.

If you don't have flare nut wrenches consider getting them before rounding off the line nuts.

[Vincent Vega]

The big C-clamp is used to retract the piston on non-parking brake calipers. The piston retract tool is a small cube with a 3/8 drive hole and pin configuration on each face. It is used to retract pistons on parking brake calipers.(the piston is turned clockwise to retract it.)
Line wrenches are a must for seriopus brake work. Again, this was for a casual brake job guy.

[MAD]

I have the brake spring pliers but I almost always prefer to use an old flat head screwdriver with a notch ground in the tip to remove an install return springs on drum brakes. I like to use a dull pair of diagonal cutters to retract and hold the spring on the parking brake cable. I had one of the Lisle double sided tools for the spring washer hold downs that worked well but can not remember who made off with it. They make it easy when you are using new springs. If I was still fixing cars for a living I would get one of the kits for retracting the rotating piston calipers for rear disc brakes. I have never found one that I was not able to retract, but it can take a while without the tool. Half the time the parking brake mechanism on those calipers freezes up and they need to be replaced anyway-at least the VWs here in snow country.

[MAD]

I really like my power bleeder.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

.

I made one from a garden sprayer, master cylinder cap and fittings. Less than $20 invested. Works better than my mightyvac and does not make faces at me like my wife when I impose on her to help bleed the brakes.

[kartracer55]

For front disk brakes, You can use a large C clamp to retract the piston. If your not reusing the rotors, just pry it open with a screwdriver. That is all. No fancy tools, nothing. I do like to use a pair of BIG channel locks and an old brake pad to fully retract the piston though.

For Drums, These two tools...

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=12371&group_ID=1676&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
and
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=12374&group_ID=1676

Will get you by. The First link makes removing and instlling the springs a breeze. The second link is a "flip" socket you put onto a 1/4 drive screwdriver handle type thing (everybody has one of them laying around). Makes changing the shoes pretty easy.

While a screwdriver WILL work most of the time, an adjusting tool makes it alot faster as there is a wider range of motion....

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=12368&group_ID=1681

Of course, dont bother with snap on for this thing, I think Lisle makes them and they are MUCH less.

Jim

[mulepackin]

Craftsman carries a set of brake tools; adjusting tool, brake pliers, and retaining spring tool for $29.99. I've used my craftsman brake tools for years and have had no problems. Don't know what the quality is now. The other brake tool I use alot is a 20" long 3/4" tool steel rod with the replacement pigtail hook from a lrg. set of Snap On brake pliers set into the end. I use it on the springs on heavy duty trucks with air brakes. Didn't need the pliers, only the twisted hook part, so built the tool.

[Deafautotech]

i did bought this blue point caliper set for 54 dollars at pawn store while it show one clip is used. i alrwady have one at my work but my friend at school have brake problem and have me to fix but it is on saturday while my work is closed. so i had to bought it at pawn store. it is good deal....

it is same one but i paid 54 dollars at pawn store. it is list for 233.80 dollars.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=12409&group_ID=1682&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

it was used for Honda accord's rear caliper where i have "screw it" so i can install the new pads and rotors. it save me a lot of money and time than other tool that make more diffcult than this tools. it is must for mechanic who doing for living. as i am recommend.

[kartracer55]

i did bought this blue point caliper set for 54 dollars at pawn store while it show one clip is used. i alrwady have one at my work but my friend at school have brake problem and have me to fix but it is on saturday while my work is closed. so i had to bought it at pawn store. it is good deal....

it is same one but i paid 54 dollars at pawn store. it is list for 233.80 dollars.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=12409&group_ID=1682&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

OTC makes a similar set, which I highly recommend. Seems to work fairly well and I would imagine it is along cheaper.

Jim

[Deafautotech]

OTC makes a similar set, which I highly recommend. Seems to work fairly well and I would imagine it is along cheaper.

Jim

yeah i am agree with you that it is good quality and different price. but i cant let blue point caliper set go for 54 dollar while it is list for 233.80 dollars. so i bought it and used few time. if for anyone who dont work in shop then buy what you can afford and use what you know to use than be furstion around on it.... :beer:

[Deafautotech]

i did told to my tech friend that did paid price at snap on tool truck in few years ago and he said it is good deal and lucky that i did bought it while he paid what price in snap on truck before.... but he is used it many time so no problem... i am trying to buy what it is best quality for cheap price like 54 dollars for blue point caliper, and else... so i can pack more money in my wallet and have more tools for less money that other tech buy from tool truck and still paying...

[Canadian Charlie]

Here are my brake speciallty tools all esecially from eBay. Besides these I also flare nut wrenches, tubing benders but I keep them seperate

[Deafautotech]

hey canadian charlie: can i ask you a question as i noticed that you have blue point brake caliper set as i have same one but how much you paid? i paid 54 dollars at pawn store....

you have really good quality of tools.

[wilbilt]

I thought I already posted this...:headscrat:...but a ball joint press can serve as a big C-clamp for compressing calipers if you have one lying around.

I am of the camp that opens the bleeder while compressing. Might as well let that dirty stuff out instead of pushing it back into the MC. A veterinary syringe or turkey baster is good for sucking the nasty black fluid out of the reservoir, too.

If my wife is looking for that latest turkey baster she purchased...I_Haven't_Seen_It, OK?....;)

[eschoendorff]

If my wife is looking for that latest turkey baster she purchased...I_Haven't_Seen_It, OK?....;)
Yeah, I got about six of them floating around my garage.

[Charles (in GA)]

The problem with brake tools is that newer and older cars are quite different when it comes to drum brakes. The engineers seem to have to reinvent the wheel ocassionally and I have all kinds of brake tools that work on my 1960's and '70's Ford drum brakes, but I just finished (last nite) the rear drum brakes on my '99 Plymouth Breeze (Cirrus/Stratus body) and if I hadn't had the factory manual I wonder if I would have figured it out. I'm still not sure how the adjuster works, and its one of those things that you mess with for ten minutes and suddenly you get it disengaged from the shoe and are not sure how you did it. On the Plymouth, the factory manual did not show any special tools, and indeed, none of my spring tools were of any use at all. I ended up using a large pair of channel locks, needle nose, a 8mm combination wrench, a 3/8 line wrench, an 8 mm socket, extension and ratchet, and a 30 mm socket and ratchet to remove the hub from the spindle.

Fot drum brakes, the older variety, I highly recommend the following tools.

A spring tool, not the pliers type however, but very handy. Probably the most used spring tool I have.
http://www.kd-tools.com/280.htm
http://www.kd-tools.com/catalog/images/280.jpg

A brale shoe hold down spring tool, this is the large one.
http://www.kd-tools.com/285.htm
http://www.kd-tools.com/catalog/images/285.jpg

And this is the combo large and small one.
http://www.kd-tools.com/2774.htm
http://www.kd-tools.com/catalog/images/2774.jpg

And yes the spring pliers can be useful
http://www.kd-tools.com/298.htm
http://www.kd-tools.com/catalog/images/298.jpg

Disc brakes have the calipers attached in so many different ways you need to figure out what you are working on and what you need. My Ford Ranger has metal pieces with elastomer between them, you use a hammer and punch to knock it out and a hammer to put it back again. That and a large C clamp is all you really need, aside from a wire brush to clean out the slots in the caliper and bracket. Other cars require allen bits or torx bits to remove caliper mounting pins.

Charles

[Deafautotech]

[QUOTE=Charles (in GA)]The problem with brake tools is that newer and older cars are quite different when it comes to drum brakes. The engineers seem to have to reinvent the wheel ocassionally and I have all kinds of brake tools that work on my 1960's and '70's Ford drum brakes, but I just finished (last nite) the rear drum brakes on my '99 Plymouth Breeze (Cirrus/Stratus body) and if I hadn't had the factory manual I wonder if I would have figured it out. I'm still not sure how the adjuster works, and its one of those things that you mess with for ten minutes and suddenly you get it disengaged from the shoe and are not sure how you did it. On the Plymouth, the factory manual did not show any special tools, and indeed, none of my spring tools were of any use at all. I ended up using a large pair of channel locks, needle nose, a 8mm combination wrench, a 3/8 line wrench, an 8 mm socket, extension and ratchet, and a 30 mm socket and ratchet to remove the hub from the spindle.

i did that rear brakes work to pull out of hub and replaced drum shoes and hardwares while hubs are off because it is so easy and simple than have hub on it.... i have little big hands so well... :bounce:

[mulepackin]

Just finished the front brakes on my 2001 Dodge Diesel pickup. Pretty much a garden variety disc brake job with a few quirks. The caliper is a 2 piece kind of unit with a seperate frame for the pads to slide on. It is att to the actual dual piston caliper with the pins (torx head) which of course are greased and are within bellows boots. The whole assembly is then att to the back plate with 12 point 16 mm bolts. So, my largest (10 inch) C clamp, would not fit around all of this, used a 12 in sliding bar clamp. Since it is dual piston caliper used a block of wood against both pistons to fully compress after removal. Lots of 12 point fasteners on this truck.

[eschoendorff]

I still cannot understand why - in 2007 - we still have vehicles with drum brakes. Sheesh.

[Charles (in GA)]

I still cannot understand why - in 2007 - we still have vehicles with drum brakes. Sheesh.

The front brakes do 90% of the braking, and drum brakes make good parking brakes. The rears on my '99 Plymouth had 118,000 miles so I'm not complaining.

Charles

[mulepackin]

I still cannot understand why - in 2007 - we still have vehicles with drum brakes. Sheesh.

My aforementioned Dodge pickup has discs all the way around. It stops very well, and I tow upwards of 12000 pounds at times or more. It does eat brakes though. Only had 65,000 on it when I changed them now. Had to replace the rotors, barely enough to turn, and I'm sure they would have warped anyway, so just replaced.