View Full Version : $6,000 for 30ft span roof trusses?

04-18-2007, 09:38 PM
Got the quote back from Higgins & Sons (Tecumseh, OK) today, wasn't a happy cmper. I am building a 30 x 40 with a simple loft, and am going with 30ft span 12 pitch, 16 centers.

So the quote for 21 trusses was about $6k. Seems really high to me, but what do I know. Anyone with a similar experience?

04-18-2007, 10:01 PM
Sounds close, but is a bit high.

I normally figure $5 per lineal foot as a starting point for custom trusses.

30' span x $5 foot = $150 each

40 foot wide garage with trusses on 16's = 30 trusses

$150 x 30 = $4500

Willy Victor
04-18-2007, 10:06 PM
It looks like you're paying $285 a piece. I have a 30X36 on 24 centers, built it six years ago for $14,000 for everything, drywall,elect,insulation got a deal on that. Your price for trusses doesn't seem out of line, why don't you try 24centers and save a few bucks. I went with attic trusses, that give me usable storage space in the loft of 14X36.


Der Bugmeister
04-18-2007, 10:39 PM
My trusses for a 30 x 30 garage were $1700 + tax just over a year ago (out here in BC). Those were 2 x 4 on 24" centres and a 12/4 slope.

04-18-2007, 11:42 PM
Thanks Willy, I am a total noob. Can you elaborate a bit more? 14x36 of your shop has loft/attic storage and the rest is normal stick frame up?

04-18-2007, 11:59 PM
I think I paid around $2500 for my trusses several years ago. 30x30.

04-19-2007, 12:10 AM
What size is your bottom cord for a 30' span. Is the bottom cord a web joist or truss joist?

04-19-2007, 12:23 AM
Oh man, you got me. I have a lot to learn, so help me out a bit with the lingo. Maybe you guys can point me in a different direction. I basically want to build a 30x40 with a loft. Not to put engine blocks and such, but more like a small office/game room space. I thought a truss system would be the best bet, but maybe I need I-beams for the floor and another kind of roof?

I have a drawing of what I want, I'll post that in a day or so and you vets will probably have a ton of great observations. Been lurking for awhile, but really hope to bust ground early this summer.

Thanks all.

04-19-2007, 12:25 AM
So, could I go with 24 center, or does that negate any real use of the loft area?

04-19-2007, 12:25 AM
What size is your bottom cord for a 30' span. Is the bottom cord a web joist or truss joist?

Take that back.... I just remembered it's not exactly 30 foot. More like 26-27 foot since there is a paralam that spans the little alcove at the back of my garage. The trusses rest on that.

What's the difference between the web joist and truss joist?

04-19-2007, 05:05 AM
Be careful in evaluating all of the above cost data, compare apples to apples. Room above, no room above, intermediate beam/no beam, etc.

In my garage, I clear span a full depth of 28 feet and am 58 feet wide. I do not have any interior steel beams/columns to bang my doors on. I also have a full attic above. My trusses have 2x10 bottom chords. I also have functional dormers above which required girder trusses (multiple trusses ganged together). My trusses are 16 inch on center.

When all was said and done, I paid $8k for my trusses, but that also included the three ply 14 inch microlams which spanned my two 9x9 garage doors and the three ply 18 inch microlam which spanned the 18x9 door. The truss company designed all of the load carrying members for me.

04-19-2007, 08:22 AM
Your $6k quote sounds high to me. What was the loft floor rated to. For example 20 psf dead load, 40 psf live load?

This makes a big difference in the bottom cord of the truss.

Also what was the pitch? 4/12, 6/12, 8/12?

04-19-2007, 08:42 AM
I ordered 30’ span attic trusses with an 8/12 pitch for my 30 x 50’ garage addition. They have a 2x10” bottom cord and 2x8” top cords. Even thought they were designed for 24” centers, I placed them on 16”. You won’t be sorry if you placed them on 16” centers, you’ll find that the attic will have far less bounce!

To stiffen things up more I recommend nailing and gluing down Ύ” tongue and groove PLYWOOD flooring for the attic.

Also make sure you have a structural engineer design the cutout for the stairs beforehand. The truss manufacturer will not be responsible for their products if any cord is altered. Plus it’s a pet peeve for most all local inspectors, they want to see the stamp of a licensed structural engineers on the drawing.

The thicker bottom cords allowed me room enough for (10”) R30 glass insulation in the ceiling. And when I decided to drywall the attic, I used (6”) R-19 glass insulation, that allowed a 2“ air gap above the insulation..

The cost of the trusses two years ago was about $5,000.00.

04-19-2007, 08:46 AM
My 32' span trusses were $190 each. They have a 16' wide room inside and are on 24" centers. Bought in early 2005.

Flathead Youngin'
04-19-2007, 09:27 AM
go with rafters upstairs......don't have to have any support in the middle....

i used a huge ibeam, downstairs, to support the floor (34' span with no supports in middle)....and set my floor joists on top the the ibeam..... then i also have a beam for putting a chain hoist one (best tool in the shop!)

however, because i like to build things heavy, i took 3 house jacks, put them on top of the beam and transferred some of the weight from the gable of the roof to the ibeam.....

i keep telling others how i did this but i need to just take pics and show it......

04-19-2007, 11:33 AM
Zoobee, you haven't given enough information on the trusses to determine their worth. In my terminology, a loft isn't in the attic area, it's attic. A loft would be below the attic. I think what you're refering to is an attic truss, one that has an open area you can stand in and store things. We need more information on how the truss is constucted and by what dimensional lumber is used.

They have given you a quote on 24" centers, not 16". If you had 16" centers, there would be 31 trusses. Your 12/12 pitch isn't helping, your truss is going to be about 17' at the peak if you have a 2' overhang on each side. The rafters are likely 2x6 or possibly 2x8 based on the span and the fact there is attic storage. The bottom cord could be a web joist, dimensional lumber of significant size (ie. 2x10 or 2x12), an engineered I-beam, I doubt it would be a glu-lam. A web joist has 2x4 top and bottom and has 2x4 on diagonals back and forth. Like this:


And twostory is right, we need to know what load rating they calculated for. They may also be two level trusses, in that you have to stack a second truss on top of the first one, I had to do that in N.C. once.

I would think about stick framing it, use a couple 30' glu-lams and run 2x floor joists between them., but the big kicker is the 12/12 pitch, which I assume you're doing to match the pitch on your house. You might consider dropping down to a 10/12 pitch. which would diminish the overall height a couple feet (14'-2").

04-19-2007, 01:02 PM
It's obvious I need to back up a few steps and fill in the gaps in my plan (and understanding). Thanks for the help everyone. Larry, do you have a PM from me in your inbox?

I am in Edmond too, and I'd like to have someone look at my site/wish list and maybe help formulate a better informed plan. My email is blueskystudio@cox(dot)net. Drop me a line and we chan exchange phone numbers, etc.

Thanks again everyone.

04-19-2007, 04:42 PM
No, I don't. My cell is 203-6796. I'll be leaving work about 5:30 from over by Baptist Hospital and going to get my daughter some supper, she's a trainer at Edmond North and they're having a track meet. After that I could swing by if you're north or west, I live near Kelly and Charter Oak.

04-20-2007, 03:03 PM
Don't know if it will help or not, but I'm going to be building a 28'x32' shop with an attached 8'8"x12' garden shed. 4:12 pitch on all, 12 feet of storage truss, 20 feet of scissor truss on the garage (28ft span); plus 4 standard trusses on the garden shed (12ft span). I've got three bids ranging from $1900+ to $2500, with small detail differences. I'm to understand they are all #2 lumber.

Hope that helps,


Willy Victor
04-20-2007, 10:39 PM
Thanks Willy, I am a total noob. Can you elaborate a bit more? 14x36 of your shop has loft/attic storage and the rest is normal stick frame up?

Zoobee I have attic trusses and the usable space in the attic is 14' wide by 36' long. I used 3/4 tongue and groove plywood for the floor. It is six feet high in the center and slopes down to thirty inches at the sides. The roof pitch is 6/12. I have a set of fold down stairs that fit between the 24 on center joists. Sidewalls are ten feet, bottom chord on the truss is 2X10. Trusses are actually 32' wide .to allow a 12" overhang. I am only using the attic for storage, nothing really heavy. Hope this is some help.


04-24-2007, 09:08 PM
I just got 17 trusses 30 ft wide 4:12 pitch for $1300

04-25-2007, 01:56 AM
Thanks for the comparisons guys. I was just telling 1320stang tonight that the reason the quote came out high is because I told them to do a quote on 12/12 pitch. I don't need that much height to the roof, so I am going to get quotes on something more like 7-8/12.

04-25-2007, 09:59 AM
Zoo, I got to thinking, if you kick the building to the left like we talked about, and left the shed, you could put the compressor out there which would cut down on the noise in the shop.