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spoulson
05-21-2007, 09:52 AM
I needed to build a spacious, sturdy workbench. This will be something I can use to work on heavy parts, install a vice, or other tools. One day I was watching Ask This Old House and they showed how to build a workbench. I got inspired so I headed out to get some lumber and built it in two afternoons. I then stained the top with some leftover semi-transparent stain from my deck. Its size is 6'x3' with 36" height.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/spoulson/IMG_0946.jpg?t=1179759037
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/spoulson/IMG_0948.jpg?t=1179759050
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/spoulson/IMG_0950.jpg?t=1179759052

Uncle Buck
05-21-2007, 08:51 PM
I needed to build a spacious, sturdy workbench. This will be something I can use to work on heavy parts, install a vice, or other tools. One day I was watching Ask This Old House and they showed how to build a workbench. I got inspired so I headed out to get some lumber and built it in two afternoons. I then stained the top with some leftover semi-transparent stain from my deck. Its size is 6'x3' with 36" height.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/spoulson/IMG_0946.jpg?t=1179759037
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/spoulson/IMG_0948.jpg?t=1179759050
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/spoulson/IMG_0950.jpg?t=1179759052


Once you bolt a good sized vice and a good bench grinder in place you should be set! The bench looks good to me.:thumbup:

spoulson
05-22-2007, 06:26 AM
Thanks. I'm debating if I should put a coat of poly on the top. The stain may have sealed it some, but it's still rough on top, which would make it hard for cleanups.

markb1
06-24-2007, 09:50 AM
Maybe some formica or sheet metal?

Coach James
06-24-2007, 01:45 PM
I made mine basicaly the same way except my top is 8 foot 2x6's. I have another desk to use when I need a smooth work space. I didn't stain the top but it has gotten stained just by my working on it.

medic583
06-24-2007, 03:30 PM
If you don't throw some tin on top... how about some 1/4" hardboard?

That way when it wears out... toss the disposable 1/4" top... install another one... and presto... looks like new all over again :)

boiler7904
06-26-2007, 04:46 PM
I needed to build a spacious, sturdy workbench. This will be something I can use to work on heavy parts, install a vice, or other tools. One day I was watching Ask This Old House and they showed how to build a workbench. I got inspired so I headed out to get some lumber and built it in two afternoons. I then stained the top with some leftover semi-transparent stain from my deck. Its size is 6'x3' with 36" height.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/spoulson/IMG_0946.jpg?t=1179759037
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/spoulson/IMG_0948.jpg?t=1179759050
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/spoulson/IMG_0950.jpg?t=1179759052

Looks good.

I did a similar design in my garage last fall. Used 2x4s for the framing, 3/4" plywood for the bottom shelf, 2 layers of 3/4"
plywood and a layer 1/4" tempered hardboard for the top. I thought about painting it until I decided it would get beat up and I'd have to repaint every so often - not exactly what I wanted to do.

A couple of weeks ago, I built two drawers on swivel casters that roll under the bottom shelf. Makes for easy access to a lot of otherwise useless space. I use one to store my Kreg pocket hole jig kit, clamps, and some other misc. wood working type stuff. The other is used to store my socket set, torque wrench, and a few other odds and ends.

Total cost for two drawers was a sheet of plywood ($20), 8 casters ($16), and 4 wire cabinet pulls ($4)

I'll try to take an actual pic or two tonight.

edl
06-27-2007, 09:10 AM
looks good - second the advice for a thin disposable layer on the top - one question: it looks like many of connections are made by nails - is this right? - if so, you may want to look at some screws to reinforce or better yet, bolts with nuts on the other side - just a thought - good luck! - ed

URY914
07-08-2007, 09:50 PM
I have some 7' x 4' x 1- 3/4" solid core wood doors, with red oak skins. Got them from work. I renovate hospitals. These doors are HEAVY and great for work bench tops. Every project I do we throw some away, what a shame. But I can't find people to give them to when I get them.

Uncle Buck
07-08-2007, 09:53 PM
I have some 7' x 4' x 1- 3/4" solid core wood doors, with red oak skins. Got them from work. I renovate hospitals. These doors are HEAVY and great for work bench tops. Every project I do we throw some away, what a shame. But I can't find people to give them to when I get them.

And the worst of it is you only have room for so many of those heavy duty workbench tops! Right?:bounce:

URY914
07-10-2007, 09:07 PM
And the worst of it is you only have room for so many of those heavy duty workbench tops! Right?:bounce:

I have a 7' metal door that my vice is bolted to, a 4' x 4' rolling table with a wooden door top and another workbench with a wooden top.

Uncle Buck
07-10-2007, 11:55 PM
I have a 7' metal door that my vice is bolted to, a 4' x 4' rolling table with a wooden door top and another workbench with a wooden top.



Ya baby, THAT'S WHAT I'M TALKIN BOUT!:pimpflash

Mook62
08-03-2007, 10:49 AM
URY914,

I know exactly what you're talking about. My main bench is an old hospital door. I made it when I lived in Indiana.
I've been looking for a contact here in SC to try and find an outlet for those doors, so that I can build a few more.

One thing I did differently is that I found a local steel supplier and would go by and buy all of their "drops" that they had. once a month or so I'd go by and pick up about 100 or so feet of angle, square tubing, c channel, etc for a little over $115.00.

One such trip, I found a stash of 2x2 thick wall square tubing, that's how I used the hospital door for a work top. Table weight was well over 200 pounds. Heavy but sturdy. Just like I like my girls!!!

joa65
08-07-2007, 12:02 PM
I made mine with 2x4 framing, lag screwed into the wall. The top is made from 2x10's covered by leftover laminate flooring. I put and aluminum edge on it. I made it about 5 years ago and it is holding up very well. It cleans up easily in case I host some type of social event. :beer: And if necessary, replacement will be very cheap. :thumbup:

jimvannoy
08-08-2007, 09:05 PM
My big bench is made with 4x4 legs with 2x4's bolted to those and a thick steel top. It's got an anvil on one end and vice on the other. I have it out in the middle of my shop so I can use it from any side. It's got a big heavy door sitting on it right now. I could probably put an engine on top of it if I wanted to.

pearltsi
08-11-2007, 04:58 PM
You inspired me, I just got done making a workbench myself, I pretty much copied your design. Looks great. Ill get some pics a little later tonight. I might add a shelf to the top of it

CarpenterJC
08-17-2007, 11:45 AM
Just a suggestion..Check with the local Countertop shops in your area..when the pull old tops out they just toss them..some are in good shape and could be used/cut to use as Bench tops...they work great for that..I got mine it was a Kitchen Island top 30"deep by 60" long..love it.

JC

Bigger Hammer
08-21-2007, 06:31 PM
What is the spacing on the table top supports? It looks like you might need to add another one in between each of those if you plan on doing any pounding on work pieces.

I have a work bench that I made out of scrap material that I had laying around the garage and I thought I had the supports close enough together (approx. 2'6"-3'-0"). I used 2x8's for a top and they bounce so bad that I have to put things on the floor if I'm ever getting a good beating in on something.
Plans for the near future are to tear it out complete and build two tables on castors. One with a metal working grate top and the other with a wood top. That way I can roll them out into the middle of the floor for most projects or leave them against the wall to use as a work bench.


Workbench looks great though and I agree with the replaceable top skin. 1/4" hard board can be had for about $15 or $16 a sheet if I remember correctly.

Norton155
03-18-2008, 06:51 PM
Workbench looks great though and I agree with the replaceable top skin. 1/4" hard board can be had for about $15 or $16 a sheet if I remember correctly.

I'm planning on building a bench as soon as this semester gets out. It will probably have 4x4 legs, mostly 2x4 framing and a 3/4" top and lower shelf. It will basically be very similar to the OP's. I thinking of using a sheet of 1/4" hardboard as a top. How would you guys suggest I attach the top? Would 3/4" wood screws around the edges be enough? What can I use for a "border" around the edge of the top? Thanks.

gorilla
03-19-2008, 05:27 PM
My workbench is a 8" thick, 23" deep, 6' long glue lam mounted on 4" x .250 wall square tubing legs. It has a wilton machinist vice on one end and a steel cabinet underneath it. It also has the ability to collect more junk then I ever thought possible.

russlaferrera
04-03-2008, 02:14 AM
My workbench is a 8" thick, 23" deep, 6' long glue lam mounted on 4" x .250 wall square tubing legs. It has a wilton machinist vice on one end and a steel cabinet underneath it. It also has the ability to collect more junk then I ever thought possible.

Do you have any idea WHY EVERYONE puts junk on any flat surface? I have 1 welding table. 2 workbenches, 1 radial arm saw. Every surface has stuff on it and must be removed before I use it. Clutter gene, slob, bad childhood, any clue?

annoyingrob
04-30-2008, 01:21 AM
Clutter gene, slob, bad childhood, any clue?

It's because you don't have a proper place to put said items.

"A place for everything, and everything in its place"

This is why I like lots of cabinets with doors. Keeps surfaces clean :)

Kevin54
04-30-2008, 03:10 AM
One other suggestion....add some edging on it, or you will be snagging the edge of the plywood. You can add edging with a piece of 1x2 and then bevel the top corner.

lansur
05-25-2008, 01:01 PM
(new memer) Hi from Langley BC! Read your posts about 3x6 workbench after browsing for quite a while! I have all the wood including 3/4" birch. (I'm also moving two 20 foot cedars back 10 feet, drywalling my family room and fixing my f.r. door which won't close now that the warm weather is here. Talk about multi-tasking!) Anyway, my question is: does anyone have plans for assembling all this wood? You may think I am carpentry challenged and you are right so I need very basic instructions for a simple, portable (when I next move houses) and opinions as to whether to use lag bolts or wood screws. In either case, what size would you recommend? I have 4 2X8(7)'sX3' high, 4 2X4X6' long, and 8 2X4X3' high. And the top, 3X6 3/4" birch. My prime purpose is to provide not only a work area but storage for my various clutter that is scattered all over the place. Lastly, any tips on how to put it together with few tools? Thanks for your indulging this newbie!

TXST8tj
06-12-2008, 03:59 PM
i like to overbuild things when possible. my workbench is not complete, but this is what i have so far....

4x4 legs with 2x4 cross pieces and lag bolts tying it all together.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/TXST8tj/Garage/P2190013.jpg


it weighs a ton and is rock friggin solid....and it doesn't have its permanent top on it yet.


i have the wood cut for additional bracing, but i have not 'installed' them yet. this shows where they go though....


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/TXST8tj/Garage/P2190012a.jpg




my hobby is Jeeps so i wanted something that could handle the weight and stress of say....a Dana 60 or 14 Bolt axle.

there will be a shelf on the bottom and of course a top. i have not figured out what top material i will be using. i am thinking 3/4" plywood with 1/4round glued to the outside edges to prevent snagging. i plan to have about a 6" overhang at the front and possibly the sides to allow for a good clamping location.

i have a couple lag bolts going through the back supports into the wall studs to keep it from "walking" on me, but reverse them out and i can move the bench where i need to.

RPayne
06-30-2008, 02:05 AM
I started with a bench similer to that and have since become an advocate of bigger is better. Once you get that vice and grinder on there then it will be hard to find a spot to work at. Then start working with something in the vice and it moves the whole bench. Thats a great job, nice bench. I would spend the coin and put stainless on the top or formica. Formica will stain but stainless is the best. My current bench is out of 2/10 and 2/12 weighs about 200# and I still find myself moving it around breaking bolts loose or banging on something.

Merkava_4
07-01-2008, 05:27 AM
TXST8tj

What did you use to fasten the 2x4's to the 4x4's? They look like carriage bolts but I'm not sure.

Stuey
07-01-2008, 07:27 AM
TXST8tj

What did you use to fasten the 2x4's to the 4x4's? They look like carriage bolts but I'm not sure.

4x4 legs with 2x4 cross pieces and lag bolts tying it all together.
It's okay, I almost missed it too.

cLAYH
08-23-2008, 10:34 PM
My bench is almost the same as the one above with the 4X4 posts.

One suggestion for any bench that sees severve duty(oil spills hammer beatings, etc), double layer the top. I have 3/8 plywood on top with 1/2" plywood over that. When the 1/2" gets "worn down" I just unscrew it(6 screws around the perimenter) and lift it off and either flip it or get a new sheet.

I too do the Jeep thing and often have diffs dropped on my bench leaking oil everywhere.

GSSFC
08-27-2008, 09:34 PM
TXST8tj

What did you use to fasten the 2x4's to the 4x4's? They look like carriage bolts but I'm not sure.

I don't think those are lags. The way they are countersunk like that. I suspect they may be GRK fastens. I could be wrong, but that is what I used and they looks quite similar. www.grkfasteners.com

Tim