The Garage Journal Board http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ The H.A.M.B. is dedicated to spreading the gospel of traditional hot rods and customs to hoodlums worldwide. en Tue, 21 May 2013 17:03:49 GMT vBulletin 60 http://garagejournal.com/forum/hamb/misc/rss.jpg The Garage Journal Board http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ Pole Building Garage - Newbie to Ple Building - questions http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201354&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 16:45:53 GMT Hello, I am contemplating putting up a 24x30 pole building. I have never been involved with a pole building so I don’t know much. I have yet to... Hello,
I am contemplating putting up a 24x30 pole building. I have never been involved with a pole building so I don’t know much. I have yet to contact any local builders for quotes but have seen some of their ads on the local Craigslist. The have 24x32’s about $6500. Their CL ads are pretty basic. I’d imagine this is just the pole building and no slab? Because I don’t have a ton of money to throw at this if a floor is not included does anyone have an idea of a rough cost? We have a local rental shop that sells concrete by the yard. Might consider using a friend with concrete skills.

As I would build it, the garage doors would be on the uphill side of a slight incline. What do you do to prevent rain water from coming down the property and flowing into my “potential” garage?

I’m just asking some inexperienced questions off the top of my head to get things started.

Thanks, ]]> General Garage Discussion fairlaniac http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201354 Time for the new garage drawing near. I do have some questions that will help me. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201353&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 16:44:07 GMT First of I'm considering either a Morton Building or a Champion Building. I've heard a lot of great things about Morton buildings but have heard only a few things about Champion. Champion is based out of NC which is also my state and I do have a reference and one of their building I can go look at in an adjacent city near me that I plan to check out.

Champion is telling me from the start of the process it will take about 8 weeks to complete. This includes the whole process including 2 weeks for concrete to cure time for the inpections. Actual building eration and finishing time I am being told is 3-5 days. Is this about the same with a Morton?

I know Morton is a pole barn constructions and Champion is a red steel building. As far as longevity do I have any concern with these posts being set into the ground? There is always something about wood and soil contact that has always bothered me.

Are there any GJ folks with Either of these? Can you link your build thread if you have one?

I would also consider other options. I do need a turnkey project. I don't have the time or available manpower to erect much of anything myself. I will be acting as my own contractor and contracting out the electrical and plumbing. ]]> General Garage Discussion ctgoodman http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201353 Condensor Fan Question http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201352&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 16:39:17 GMT Got a little old Trane XE condenser unit. I replaced the condenser fan on it last summer and put the fan blades back at the same location on the... Got a little old Trane XE condenser unit. I replaced the condenser fan on it last summer and put the fan blades back at the same location on the motor shaft as it was before I took it apart. (I don't have the model number here at work, I thought I did)

Was giving it a spring cleaning last weekend and noticed when I was done the fan does not churn a nice column of air out of the center of the unit it sort of blows it out of the unit almost horizontal. I was blaming this on dirty condenser fins restricting the air but now that it is cleaned up I'm beginning to wonder.

My thought is the fan is not in the correct position so it isn't pulling the air through the condenser unit as it should. It had a fan motor replaced on it once prior to me changing the motor out last year and I'm beginning to think the fan may not have been put back correctly that time and I mimicked the location when I worked on it.

Does Trane have a spec on the XE series on where the fan should be located?? ]]> Heating and A/C POS Racing http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201352 <![CDATA[HF 30" Pedestal Shop Fan]]> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201350&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 16:29:06 GMT Has anyone ever used one of these shop fans. Item # is 47755 and is listed at $99.99 with coupon. I need a couple of fans, but was not sure of... Has anyone ever used one of these shop fans. Item # is 47755 and is listed at $99.99 with coupon. I need a couple of fans, but was not sure of their quality. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Don ]]> General Garage Discussion Don Hendrix http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201350 <![CDATA[Hose reel with 50' rubber 1/2" hose for $138 @ ToolTopia]]> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201348&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 16:10:24 GMT For those that missed out on the hose reel deal at IR, here is a decent one with 50' 1/2" rubber hose. Made by Lincoln Lubrication, same one I have.

Works pretty well. I have mine mounted upside down with a swivel bracket from Greg Smith Equipment.

http://www.tooltopia.com/lincoln-lubrication-83754.aspx

]]> Digital4n6 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201348 Graphing Calculator http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201347&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 15:30:17 GMT The kids are to the age where the school is requiring a graphing calculator for math. I had one almost 20 years ago now when I was in HS. I haven't used it since and when I found it and turned it on the other week the display showed nothing. Not really surprised since it's just been sitting for so long. So looking for advice on a new one and what is out there these days. Thinking about just looking for a used one on ebay. When I was in school my first one got stolen in science class and my parents were not happy with me. So thinking a used one might be the best since if it gets lost or stolen or not ever used again it won't be a lot of money out of pocket. This semester we just rented one from the school for 10 bucks but would like to get her her own for next year, should be able to find a deal on ebay over the summer.

Don't remember exactly what model I had but think it was a TI84 or something. I see they have TI83 and TI84plus for pretty cheap on ebay. Any advice on either of these? The TI84 plus looks to have two keyboards or something? ]]> Free Parking signcrafter http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201347 Removing Robertson Deck Screw http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201346&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 15:25:59 GMT Today I had to remove a section of man-made decking. The decking was installed using #2 Robertson screws (they have square holes). The installer... Today I had to remove a section of man-made decking. The decking was installed using #2 Robertson screws (they have square holes). The installer drove the screws below deck level. I didn't think to use my impact drill. On removal, three of the screws cammed out, or the square hole rounded out. These screws are made from some pretty mild steel.

The bit was useless to remove them. Now how do I remove these three screws? I had one new #2 bit left.
  • I used that bit and drove it into he head of the screw with a hammer.
  • I was surprised when it bit in and stayed in the head
  • I affixed a 1/4" shank to my drill and
  • used it to drive out the screw.
  • Repeated the process for the other two screws.
Now it's off to my local hardware store (25 miles away) to pick up a few more colored deck screws and reinstall them with the new bits I'll pick up.

I'm feeling I was just lucky. Does anyone have a better way to remove these cammed screws? ]]> General Tool Discussion LEVE http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201346 Pool Table Advice http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201345&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 15:17:26 GMT Anyone here has firsthand experience with / insight into C.L. Bailey pool tables? I found one on Craigslist that I will be checking out tomorrow... Anyone here has firsthand experience with / insight into C.L. Bailey pool tables? I found one on Craigslist that I will be checking out tomorrow night. It's the Black Knight model, which is the Addison model plus more chrome. Has more of a pool hall / commercial look rather than a residential one, which is what I like.

It's 7 years old and I can get it for 20-25% of the value. Again this is just a general question about the reliability of these tables rather than the specific one I will be checking out.

]]> Free Parking saba007 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201345 Now this is working with aluminum http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201343&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 14:26:45 GMT Make sure you check out the body section. Just thought I'd share the awsome fab skills these guys have. http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/book_aoe/ ]]> Kevin54 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201343 Anyone recognize this manufacturer? http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201342&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 13:57:24 GMT Interesting wrench....is this from NTK Japan that makes all the carbide tooling perhaps? Interesting wrench....is this from NTK Japan that makes all the carbide tooling perhaps?
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]]> General Tool Discussion Alchymist http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201342 Why I own a small lathe/mil http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201340&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 13:32:13 GMT Because the things you decide to do, just because you have one expands greatly. Because what you CAN do in several hours of back breaking hand...
Because the things you decide to do, just because you have one expands greatly.

Because what you CAN do in several hours of back breaking hand labor with hacksaw, file, drill motor and sweat becomes 30 min job done beerthirty :beer:

A quick and simple project…. But the exact reason I bought the Smithy..

I needed to mount some elastomer isolated handle bar end weights to a set of aftermarket motorcycle clip ons.

These are designed to reduce felt vibrations in the hand grips in use.

Since installing some aftermarket (taller and adjustable angle)Apex bars that had no anti vibration no end weights, I've had some significant bar vibrations to deal with....

Long trip coming up in a few days so figured it was time to adapt some end weights.

Rummaged through my spares and came up with two each 265 gram end weights that are elastomer isolated ... IOW the mounting point in the center is isolated from the bulk of the end weight.



The trick will be to make an adapter that attaches the weight at the center to the Apex bars without letting the weight touch the bar itself.



Task was to make some split locks like you see in the picture.. but they will be sized to the Apex bar ID and will have a spud at the end that locks on to and touches only the isolated center mount of the weight.
Step one...make chips

30 min later

One side done..






Just like an OEM design, I am rigidly mounting these to the bar ID as the weight is rubber isolated from the center mount.

The things you choose to do, expands greatly when the tool box contains more than a hammer.

Erik ]]> bronco78 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201340 The Ornery Garage http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201339&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 13:19:58 GMT After a very-long search, the wife and I were able to celebrate our fourth wedding anniversary on the 17th by closing on our first home. It is a 3... After a very-long search, the wife and I were able to celebrate our fourth wedding anniversary on the 17th by closing on our first home. It is a 3 bedroom, 2.5 bath with a 3 car garage and a small shed outback. We're both still a bit in shock that we found something so close to our dream home after months of viewing so many dreary, stucco boxes without a hint of character.

After years of living in tract homes and apartments, every time I pull into the driveway I get all warm and fuzzy:


This is what really matters!


The garage is roughly 32x25 with raised ceilings and unfortunately a few required appliances. The A/C is neatly out of the way but the water heater, holding tank and treatment tanks are eating up valuable floor space. I don't believe I can do much about this, so I will merely do what I can to tidy them up and use the space around them. ]]> Garage Gallery OrneryDuck http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201339 question on punches http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201338&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 12:59:52 GMT I have had a slew of decent punches. Kayhew, craftsman, a few snap on, and the like. They all mushroom or bend at some point, so whats the point of... I have had a slew of decent punches. Kayhew, craftsman, a few snap on, and the like. They all mushroom or bend at some point, so whats the point of buying good punches? ]]> General Tool Discussion amguttin http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201338 Ineffective Ridge Vent in New, Hot Garage? http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201336&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 12:56:29 GMT First off... this is my first post... and I apologize profusely in advance for the very long post! I'm Steve, live in Ohio, know very little about heating and cooling, and am becoming increasingly confused over suggestions I've seen throughout the Internet concerning garage "heat removal". So what better place to search for answers to my garage problem than a garage forum?!

A little background: We moved into our house not quite a year ago. The garage is detached and only about a year old. It is just a "basic" structure, rectangular and very long. I don't have the dimensions with me, but you can get an idea by looking at the attached "artwork". The interior is unfinished with no ceiling... just rafters. There is no insulation under the roof yet, or anywhere else. The exterior is vinyl and the roof is asphalt shingle. There is continuous soffit venting around the entire perimeter of the garage, and I can see light emitting through it so it appears adequate to my "uninformed" eye. I question the ridge vent though. I'm not sure it allows enough heat to escape. There is absolutely no shade available to the garage, and it isn't likely that there ever will be. There is a garage door (single) at one end, and another (single) located diagonally at the other end. There are two entry doors on one side.

The garage is like an oven when outside temperatures begin to rise. As I said, it looks like I have plenty of soffit venting, but not enough functioning ridge venting. I know roof insulation would be beneficial, and I do plan on adding that. It's "what else needs to be done" that has me confused.

My goals: I don't have much in the way of disposable income, so adding an A/C unit is out of the question for me. I just want, if possible, to bring the temps down to almost outside temps to protect vehicles, chemicals, etc. from heat damage. Also, not passing out when entering would be good!

So far: After a lengthy thread in a car forum, I came up with a plan. I would install the insulation between the rafters, and I would install a powered attic fan near the ridge. Seemed very reasonable to me. But then I went elsewhere and read more on the subject. I discovered, and this makes total sense to me now, that an attic fan installed next to a ridge vent will simply pull exterior air from the ridge vent... the "path of least resistance"... and would do little to pull the hot air from the garage. And reading more on the subject, I saw pros and cons on just about everything I could imagine. I also read that today's attic fans available from the "big box" stores are not of the highest quality anymore.

Any plans, ideas, suggestions for a course of action are appreciated!

SO.... I apologize again for the very long post! Thank you to everyone who waded through it, and I appreciate any input you may have!

Steve
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]]> Heating and A/C steve65oh http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201336 Epoxy-coat adventures http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201334&goto=newpost Tue, 21 May 2013 12:48:24 GMT Long-time lurker here looking for some advice before I dive-in headfirst with a full-kit of Epoxy-coat. My garage is close to 400 ft^2, and is 7... Long-time lurker here looking for some advice before I dive-in headfirst with a full-kit of Epoxy-coat. My garage is close to 400 ft^2, and is 7 years old. Here's what I've accomplished so far:

Swept
Leaf-blew
Paint thinner on paint stains
Scrubbed with dilluted TSP
Rinsed
Pressure washed to remove paint
Let Dry
More TSP
Simple Green
Dish soap
Rinsed
Pressure Washed

After all of this, I still have remnants of oil spills and paint stains. I picked up some more chemicals yesterday in hopes of avoiding diamond grinding. I have an angle grinder with a DeWalt diamond wheel, but it tends to be agressive and I don't want to make more work for myself. I have a few small to medium oil stains, a few latex paint spills, minor rust spots, a few tire marks (not sure if from oil or something else) and pinoles/imperfections in the concrete.

Oil stains:
I bought more powder and liquid TSP. My first approach of slightly diluting then leaving on the stain for a few hours didn't pull up much oil. Should I go with the liquid TSP?

Latex paint (see picture):
At this point the stains are faded and likely removed from the surface. Will mineral spirits do the trick in wicking up the rest?

Rust:
I've read that muratic acid will eliminate rust spots. Will these impede the epoxy's ability to bond with the concrete? If I do the acid etch that came with the Epoxy-coat kit, do I need to pre-treat this with muratic acid?

Tire Marks (see picture):
Do I need to grind these spots? As stated previously, I'm not sure what material is embedded in the concrete. It could be rubber, or possibly some oily substance.

Concrete Imperfections (see pictures):
Some of these are divits smaller than a dime, and 1/2" deep. Others are spots where the polished surface has been chipped. I have a few concrete filler products, as well as a small bag of Quikrete. I've read that Liquid Nails is acceptable for filling holes, and that the Epoxy bonds. I also know I can just fill with Epoxy, but I'd prefer to fill before I coat the floor, as I'm not sure how much extra I'll have to spare. The worst-case situation seems to be Quikrete followed by the diamond wheel. Thoughts?

Thanks for reading this post. I've been searching the forums, and reading as much as possible. I've put ~10 hours into surface prep thus far, and am determined to create a good profile for the epoxy. If diamond grinding is the only option, I'll just have to bite the bullet. I'm not 100% confident that acid etching will cut through the stains that remain. What's the community's advice on how to procede?
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]]> Flooring thrasherx http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201334