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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Sycamore, OH
Posts: 556
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Tonight's quick project was a set of adapters to mount standard vise grips onto my slide hammer.
1/2"-20 coupling nuts 1 each: 1/4-20, 5/16-18, and 3/8-16 fully-threaded cap screws lathe welder ![]() ![]()
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Napa Valley, California
Posts: 1,629
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Nicely done! Those look great.
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Rivets are the New Duct Tape. Very close to finishing up the first Fantastic Light Bracket in The Aerodrome Studio--my metalworking studio in a 2-car, attached garage, where I build artistic projects, inpired by aeroplanes - The Aerodrome Studio: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=122188 - Solid Rivets 101: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=172474 - Blog: http://TheAerodromeStudio.com/wordpress -Twitter @Machine_Punk |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Lynnwood, Wa
Posts: 1,002
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Nice, I'm always finding ways to use the vise grip adaptor that came in my OTC slide hammer set
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#4 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 18
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where i work there are some modified with a yoke for the puller to draw in a straight line with the jaw teeth . Some hardened pins tend to snap off.
The rivet (pivot) is removed and the yoke is installed with a new longer rivet |
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#5 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 18
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quick view
Last edited by nosnownogo; 09-14-2011 at 11:13 AM. |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gresham, Oregon
Posts: 84
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Nice Job!
lots on innovation on this site |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Indy
Posts: 2,067
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Great Idea.
Question for anybody here. I have a HF bodywork stud welder I bought about a year ago to pull a panel out. It comes with a slide hammer that has a knurled camlock that grabs the pins so you can hammer on them. Was using it a couple weeks ago and the cheapo cam wasn't hardened and lost its ability to grab the pins, I needed to get the job done so I just welded the whole head to a pair of vise grips. (not as neatly as those above, but it got the job done). Does anybody know where I can purchase a new Camlock head or pin grabbing head for the slide hammer? I like that idea over the vise grips, but haven't been able to find just a head for purchase anywhere. I can find an entire hammer kit, but I don't need one. PS. I immediately found another use for the vise grips in the slide hammer. I had to pull a tranfer case/driveshaft seal out of an F150, but couldn't get a seal puller in there because the output shaft was in the way - I bent a 1/4 inch wide piece of steel at a 90 degree angle - cut the lip off at about 1/8 inch - which fit into the seal opening beside the output shaft, grabbed the long end in the vise grips and it hammered right out. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Mount Vernon, WA
Posts: 321
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I've seen a slide hammer (or adapter for one) welded to the top of the vice grip along that angle for the same alignment reason. IIRC it was the "welding tips and tricks" guy
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"Tools are the family heirlooms. Buy the best damn tool you can afford!" — Red Green "Anything that's worth building is worth overbuilding." — Jack Olsen "A transistor protected by a fast-acting fuse will protect the fuse by blowing first." My Carport Conversion Thread | The Coffee Table Racing Seat Build |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mnts of Va
Posts: 899
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Very nice job......
Its funny how much our puller gets used.....at what seems like stupid chit,until you can't get the job done any other way.May have to fancy ours up a bit,seein the nice job OP did.BW |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,794
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A slide hammer is one of those tools that should be in EVERY car-guys shop. Once you remember you have it, a lot of jobs become a whole lot easier.
I've seen a tip for pulling dents on heavy panels (like my '61 Suburban!) where, instead of the small stud from a stud gun, they'd weld a sheetmetal tail to the panel (like the stud, but with a longer contact surface to the panel). Then, on the vise grip jaws they'd weld one piece of rod sideways across the lower jaw, and two pieces across the inside of the upper jaw, so when you clamp onto the sheetmetal, the rods are acting as the teeth. As soon as I start the bodywork on the Suburban, I'll be using that tip. Already have a pair of sacrificial Vise Grips! -Brad
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There is no such thing as a stupid question. But there sure are a lot of stupid people asking questions. Parting out Reed and Columbia vises http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139072 |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 952
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Very well done. The beauty of these is that you can still use the vise grips with out the slide hammer if you want to.
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Life is like a coin, you can choose to spend it anyway you wish, but you can only spend it once. |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mo-Ray-Al, K-bec, Ka-Na-Da
Posts: 1,243
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Very clean, very professional. I'd buy those in a heartbeat. Well done.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: St-Colomban,Que. Canada
Posts: 1,826
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You suck! I'm guilty of welding stuff directly onto MY vise grips....
Way too nice!
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Shit happens! Get your Dimple Dies here: http://www.clubvirages.com/index.php...k=1&Itemid=109 My fab shop build here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=70953 |
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: gulf coast, TEXAS
Posts: 5,200
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Quote:
For long "dents", "wiggle wire" and a "rake" (claw) is a better removal method. ![]() |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 564
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Ahh yes, my Grandpa made a couple of those years ago. Whenever we tore down an old shed, we would save all the metal siding. They work great for pulling the nails.
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Jack of all trades, master of none http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=51498 |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 152
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Great job. I have seen a ton of other attempts but yours are top notch!
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"My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it" Jeff Spicoli |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 952
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Where did you get the 1/2-20 coupling nuts. The only ones I have been able to find are 1/2-13.
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Life is like a coin, you can choose to spend it anyway you wish, but you can only spend it once. |
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#18 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,794
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Quote:
-Brad
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There is no such thing as a stupid question. But there sure are a lot of stupid people asking questions. Parting out Reed and Columbia vises http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139072 |
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#19 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: NH
Posts: 88
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I missed something, I don't get how this it used.
Quick exp pls.
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-joy and pride come from finding a creative & elegant solution to a common problem. |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Beautiful NorthWest
Posts: 675
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the wiggle wire is welded onto the panel and is pulled by the "claw" as it is hooked onto each bend thats away from the panel. The bottom bend is whats welded to the panel. So, when you pull it by the handle it pulls at multiple locations - where the wire is welded at. How you weld it to the panel is another answer - you see the copper pieces in the picture ? Those are tips and attached to a resistance welder of some kind. The skinny tips are designed to weld the wiggle wire on. Here - a picture explains what I wrote better:
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/183253_186285524742069_100000818685598_399956_1745 128_n.jpg |
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