Walkter-Turner drill, poss purchase, want advice.
- Thread starter an0nymous
- Start date
If it runs and is not missing parts that is a good deal. Looks like a WT900, 15" drill press. Nice that it has the rear belt guard.
I don't understand the part about a gear reduction for metal working. Those presses were belt driven. Now I believe WT did make a gear reduction spindle adapter that fit on the spindle. If that is what they have then that is a great deal as those reducers are super rare.
Just FYI, there looks to be a crack in the front lip of the table. If you do buy it, check it over real well for cracks.
I don't understand the part about a gear reduction for metal working. Those presses were belt driven. Now I believe WT did make a gear reduction spindle adapter that fit on the spindle. If that is what they have then that is a great deal as those reducers are super rare.
Just FYI, there looks to be a crack in the front lip of the table. If you do buy it, check it over real well for cracks.
sgs236
Well-known member
In my area that would be a really good price. If it works, I would have no problem buying it at that price. Check out the following links for its history and how to date its age.
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=808&tab=0
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/WalkerTurnerSerialNumbers.ashx
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=808&tab=0
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/WalkerTurnerSerialNumbers.ashx
I just purchased a very similar drill press a month ago. Mine didn't have the rear belt guard. It has turned out to be a very good tool. I only paid $75. Also make absolutely sure the spindle with no run out. They use an unusual bearing and they are expensive to replace.
Use a known good 1/16" drill bit and look at the very tip as the drill press runs. The tip should look stationary. That's one way to get a first order approximation as to the accuracy of the machine. Also shake the chuck and spindle and make sure you don't feel any lateral play.
Just inspecting the machine can also give you an idea is it's a "cream puff" opr had a lot of abuse. (ex: cracked castings, jury rigged repairs, missing parts, arc of shame, etc)
My own opinion is to avoid any DP unless it has a rack and pinion table elevation feature and can go to as low as 200 RPM and as high as 3000 RPM.
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Wow. Obvious when you say it aloud, but just what I needed to hear. Thanks, Davefr!
Is there some easy way to tell the speed range or are you looking at the published specs?
Also, there's no easy way to retrofit a rack and pinion table elevation feature?
Is there some easy way to tell the speed range or are you looking at the published specs?
Also, there's no easy way to retrofit a rack and pinion table elevation feature?
I would have to respectfully disagree with Dave.
On a press that small with a table that basic a gear rack is not needed.
For the speeds IIRC that machine has a minimum of ~450rpm base with an optional metal working 3rd pulley to get it down to ~200 with the slow speed attachement, which is probably what the seller is referring to as the "Gear attachment" which, on that press is good for ~1/2" holes in steel.
Here is a link to the PDF catalog giving all the specs on the press
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/376.pdf
PDF Page 9 of 36
As for run out, I think it is better to chuck something known true (short piece of ground rod ~.375" dia) in the chuck and then clamp something to the table. Rotate the spindle by hand and monitor the gap between the rotating road and the fixed clamped piece. Second to a dial indicator of course.
On a press that small with a table that basic a gear rack is not needed.
For the speeds IIRC that machine has a minimum of ~450rpm base with an optional metal working 3rd pulley to get it down to ~200 with the slow speed attachement, which is probably what the seller is referring to as the "Gear attachment" which, on that press is good for ~1/2" holes in steel.
Here is a link to the PDF catalog giving all the specs on the press
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/808/376.pdf
PDF Page 9 of 36
As for run out, I think it is better to chuck something known true (short piece of ground rod ~.375" dia) in the chuck and then clamp something to the table. Rotate the spindle by hand and monitor the gap between the rotating road and the fixed clamped piece. Second to a dial indicator of course.
