The Jalopy Journal

69charged · 10-25-2009, 10:13 PM

hey guys, i am wondering what everyone does as far as methods go when they want to rattle can something but want it to look half decent. i clean mine with iso then heat it with a torch then spray the paint. i am looking to see what others do so that i may find a better way short of powdercoating.
thanks
clarence

zmotorsports · 10-26-2009, 07:54 AM

I don't paint a lot of things with rattle cans, mainly a few brackets or such when doing various jobs. If it is anything more than that I generally mix some paint and use a spray gun.

As far as technique, I generally clean the part as good as possible, bead blast the part in the cabinet, wipe with PPG DX330 wax and grease remover or some other pre-cleaner. Being very careful to not touch it much with my hands, I usually hang the part with a piece of wire and use a good metal etching primer, then a high solids paint. I personally don't like to pre-heat the part because I have found that when painting a part that is warm the paint drys so fast that I end up with streaks from the overlapping passes due to one pass not blending or melting into the previous pass. This is just personal experience because I do know several people that warm the parts first and have good luck. Mike.

69charged · 10-26-2009, 11:12 AM

thats the problem. i dont have access to spray guns nor do i have any hands on with it. i hope to in the future. the parts are for my sons sled that i am customizing so they are not that critical.
thanks for the response
clarence

e-tek · 10-26-2009, 07:20 PM

Get the parts and the paint to at least room temp. I spray small parts in a little bench-top booth I made, with a heater. Gets to 95-100F before I start painting.

jayoldschool · 10-26-2009, 08:37 PM

The number one key to using spray cans is multiple light coats. The finish can be amazing, but you have to be patient. Flash time between coats is fast, so the wait isn't long. You can easily achieve a great end product.

speed bump · 10-26-2009, 08:59 PM

It seems like stuff sticks the best when I used brake clean or hot water and laundry soap to clean it so thats what I do.

NUTTSGT · 10-26-2009, 09:41 PM

Actually those handles with the triggers do help out when you rattle can stuff.

jayoldschool · 10-26-2009, 10:04 PM

One more tip. Every time you are done with a spray can, flip it upside down, and spray on a piece of cardboard until no more paint comes out. You will NEVER have a clogged nozzle if you do this. I have spray cans that are over ten years old, and they still work fine.

Glenno500 · 10-27-2009, 07:21 AM

I put my spray cans in a bucket of hot (not boiling!) water for a while before painting. It keeps the pressure up and the paint flows out better.

HOTFR8 · 10-27-2009, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by e-tek

Get the parts and the paint to at least room temp. I spray small parts in a little bench-top booth I made, with a heater. Gets to 95-100F before I start painting.

Sounds like a great idea. can you show us more ?

Daniel Dudley · 11-02-2009, 06:21 PM

Object should not be super cold, can must be warm. Don't put the first coat on too thick, or try to get full coverage in one coat. First coat can be translucent, but it should be fairly even. Allow it to get slightly tacky, and go for a second coat. Make this one wet and even. You will see it ''melt'' into the tack coat. Don't get carried away, and wait a little longer for the third coat. Watch the sheen in the light, and go for a wet smooth finish. Large flat surfaces should be placed horisontal if possible.

Many thin coats added to an already tacky surface will give you a nice result. Krylon makes for a good spray pattern, Rustoleum is a wetter more substantial paint, but needs longer to tack, and has a cheaper nozzle.

Keep the nozzle square to the surface, and move the can evenly all across the object in a straight line. Pull the trigger before you get to the object, and then make your sweep. Do not stop spraying until you are past the object. Follow up with a second pass that overlaps the first by about a third to a half. Make sure it is all wet, it doesn't have to be full coverage or perfectly even. When it gets tacky, it will hold the paint better, and it will be easier to get it even without putting on too much paint and getting drips.

Practice on the back or sides of objects. You will want a real respirator for paint, and keep in mind that the overspray will be very wet, very fine, and will stick to your newly painted garage floor, car, walls, or anything within about ten feet minimum. Sandable primers that have been sanded make a GREAT base for smooth even coats, but paint like rustoleum is sticky and nasty, and will go over any sanded and degreased surface, as long as it isn't too porous. That would mean most metals and some plastics. Prime wood, remove the bulk of rust. As always, the better the prep, the better the final finish.

There are also some pretty good spray paints out there, like Wurths. If you are not happy with the results you are getting during the spraying process, STOP. SOme people can pick out a run with the edge of a paper towel. If you cannot, wait, resand and reapply. Objects must be fully dry to sand, although you can push it a hair with wet sanding.

Concentrate on getting even coats without runs. Everything else will be easy after that.

Flathead Red · 11-03-2009, 01:46 PM

These are some excellent tips. I am getting ready to shoot the A- Arms on my 40 Ford. Anyone have any experience with the "Extreme Chassis Black" from Eastwood? I purchased two cans to paint my front end, starting with the A- Arms.

Flathead Red

GTO · 11-03-2009, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flathead Red

These are some excellent tips. I am getting ready to shoot the A- Arms on my 40 Ford. Anyone have any experience with the "Extreme Chassis Black" from Eastwood? I purchased two cans to paint my front end, starting with the A- Arms.

Flathead Red

Yes,I just used this product last month.Did you get the primer too ?
I let mine dry 24 hours between coats.2-3 costs of primer,2-3 coats of gloss or satin.Very happy with the results.

zmotorsports · 11-04-2009, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flathead Red

These are some excellent tips. I am getting ready to shoot the A- Arms on my 40 Ford. Anyone have any experience with the "Extreme Chassis Black" from Eastwood? I purchased two cans to paint my front end, starting with the A- Arms.

Flathead Red

I too have used the 'Extreme Chassis Black' with great results. I did some trailer hitch welding/repair on a friends coach this past spring and after done welding, knocked some loose paint off and wire brushed the remaining steel, masked the rear bumper off and shot a couple of light coats on the hitch. After all summer long of using his RV and usually towing his trailer I winterized it last week and crawled under to look the hitch over and it still looks great even with all of the road grime and debris that gets stirred up behind these large coaches. I have used it on a few axles under Jeeps as well with great results even after pressure washing. Mike.

z28snksknr · 11-04-2009, 11:21 AM

Great tips on here. I almost can't wait until next time I have to paint something

....almost

back2class · 11-04-2009, 11:18 PM

It comes down to practice. I can get smaller objects like a motorcycle fender or smaller to look like glass. The "melting" in multople coats is spot on. I first spray a thin film coat and let that tack up. Then quick overlapping strokes back and fourth releasing the nozzle at the end of each stroke. Warm paint is ideal but I would never warm the object to be painted. Flash over is your enemy wit rattle cans. Thats why it is impossible to get a perfect coat on bigger objects unless you buff them out.
After my first film coat the next coat is heavier and should flow to a glass like shine that may still be a little transparent. Wait till it is tacky, maybe like thick maple syrup and apply a third coat just enough fresh paint where the solvents melt the under ocat and flow out to a deep gloss.

As noted rustolieum tacks up different than krylon or most other brands. I find it to be thicker and when applied right takes a full day to get dry to the touch and more to be hardened enough to handle. Krylon and most others I find a little more runny and with less solids, but dries quicker. I perfer the rustolium as it comes out thicker and to me is less prone to drip as you attempt to build up proper film thickness.

On a side note. I got so good with cans before I ever tried a real gun and 2 part paints that when I tried it the first time, it came out much better than a factory finish. Getting great results with a can in much harder but easy of you know the limitations and practice.

I made no mention of primer or sanding. But my experience is 400-600 grit wet on spray primer is fine as a good film thickness with the finish coat will fill any scratches.

Lookin4'67Galaxieconv · 11-05-2009, 12:40 AM

I'd say my experience is pretty close to what back2class just said here. In my experience with Rustoleum, I let it sit for 48 hours between coats. Krylon seems to dry much quicker. I've never tried the hand trigger but am planning on it. Though I'm wondering if it will take away too much of the feel of the nozzle for my liking.

mustangmccance · 11-05-2009, 01:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69charged

hey guys, i am wondering what everyone does as far as methods go when they want to rattle can something but want it to look half decent. i clean mine with iso then heat it with a torch then spray the paint. i am looking to see what others do so that i may find a better way short of powdercoating.
thanks
clarence

this won't help you but I just have to say that after buying my eastwood hotcoat powdercoating system 2 years ago I absolutely love it. I can powdercoat things in a fraction of the time it takes to paint it because there is no drying time. it just has to cure for 20 minutes then cool enough to touch. I do still rattle can things that aren't metal of course, but just had to plug powdercoating since you mentioned it.

back2class · 11-05-2009, 03:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lookin4'67Galaxieconv

I'd say my experience is pretty close to what back2class just said here. In my experience with Rustoleum, I let it sit for 48 hours between coats. Krylon seems to dry much quicker. I've never tried the hand trigger but am planning on it. Though I'm wondering if it will take away too much of the feel of the nozzle for my liking.

Thats interesting, I only shoot once. All coats are done within a few moments of each other and then the piece is finished.

Eldogg · 11-06-2009, 01:44 AM

My friends make fun of LARGE spray can collection but after I paint paint something they always shut up!
I love the gun attachment. Try some Lawson Products High Solids you will be hooked.

10-25-2009, 10:13 PM	#1
69charged Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: southern manitoba Posts: 84	painting things with a rattle can......methods hey guys, i am wondering what everyone does as far as methods go when they want to rattle can something but want it to look half decent. i clean mine with iso then heat it with a torch then spray the paint. i am looking to see what others do so that i may find a better way short of powdercoating. thanks clarence

10-26-2009, 07:54 AM	#2
zmotorsports Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Utah Posts: 211	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods I don't paint a lot of things with rattle cans, mainly a few brackets or such when doing various jobs. If it is anything more than that I generally mix some paint and use a spray gun. As far as technique, I generally clean the part as good as possible, bead blast the part in the cabinet, wipe with PPG DX330 wax and grease remover or some other pre-cleaner. Being very careful to not touch it much with my hands, I usually hang the part with a piece of wire and use a good metal etching primer, then a high solids paint. I personally don't like to pre-heat the part because I have found that when painting a part that is warm the paint drys so fast that I end up with streaks from the overlapping passes due to one pass not blending or melting into the previous pass. This is just personal experience because I do know several people that warm the parts first and have good luck. Mike.

10-26-2009, 11:12 AM	#3
69charged Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: southern manitoba Posts: 84	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods thats the problem. i dont have access to spray guns nor do i have any hands on with it. i hope to in the future. the parts are for my sons sled that i am customizing so they are not that critical. thanks for the response clarence

10-26-2009, 07:20 PM	#4
e-tek Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK Posts: 4,798	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods Get the parts and the paint to at least room temp. I spray small parts in a little bench-top booth I made, with a heater. Gets to 95-100F before I start painting. __________________ Gentlemen, please! *Check out my Web-page:* http://edanneberg.googlepages.com/home

10-26-2009, 08:37 PM	#5
jayoldschool Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 419	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods The number one key to using spray cans is multiple light coats. The finish can be amazing, but you have to be patient. Flash time between coats is fast, so the wait isn't long. You can easily achieve a great end product.

10-26-2009, 08:59 PM	#6
speed bump Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Butte Montana Posts: 3,120	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods It seems like stuff sticks the best when I used brake clean or hot water and laundry soap to clean it so thats what I do. __________________ Its not magic its experimental, kind of like washing your hands after pooping used to be. -House If you want more US made goods tell Californians to start building power plants or turning off the AC.

10-26-2009, 09:41 PM	#7
NUTTSGT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Sulphur Springs, Oh Posts: 1,552	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods Actually those handles with the triggers do help out when you rattle can stuff. __________________ ERIC Too much is.... Just enough.

10-26-2009, 10:04 PM	#8
jayoldschool Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 419	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods One more tip. Every time you are done with a spray can, flip it upside down, and spray on a piece of cardboard until no more paint comes out. You will NEVER have a clogged nozzle if you do this. I have spray cans that are over ten years old, and they still work fine.

10-27-2009, 07:21 AM	#9
Glenno500 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 3	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods I put my spray cans in a bucket of hot (not boiling!) water for a while before painting. It keeps the pressure up and the paint flows out better.

11-02-2009, 06:21 PM	#11
Daniel Dudley Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 564	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods Object should not be super cold, can must be warm. Don't put the first coat on too thick, or try to get full coverage in one coat. First coat can be translucent, but it should be fairly even. Allow it to get slightly tacky, and go for a second coat. Make this one wet and even. You will see it ''melt'' into the tack coat. Don't get carried away, and wait a little longer for the third coat. Watch the sheen in the light, and go for a wet smooth finish. Large flat surfaces should be placed horisontal if possible. Many thin coats added to an already tacky surface will give you a nice result. Krylon makes for a good spray pattern, Rustoleum is a wetter more substantial paint, but needs longer to tack, and has a cheaper nozzle. Keep the nozzle square to the surface, and move the can evenly all across the object in a straight line. Pull the trigger before you get to the object, and then make your sweep. Do not stop spraying until you are past the object. Follow up with a second pass that overlaps the first by about a third to a half. Make sure it is all wet, it doesn't have to be full coverage or perfectly even. When it gets tacky, it will hold the paint better, and it will be easier to get it even without putting on too much paint and getting drips. Practice on the back or sides of objects. You will want a real respirator for paint, and keep in mind that the overspray will be very wet, very fine, and will stick to your newly painted garage floor, car, walls, or anything within about ten feet minimum. Sandable primers that have been sanded make a GREAT base for smooth even coats, but paint like rustoleum is sticky and nasty, and will go over any sanded and degreased surface, as long as it isn't too porous. That would mean most metals and some plastics. Prime wood, remove the bulk of rust. As always, the better the prep, the better the final finish. There are also some pretty good spray paints out there, like Wurths. If you are not happy with the results you are getting during the spraying process, STOP. SOme people can pick out a run with the edge of a paper towel. If you cannot, wait, resand and reapply. Objects must be fully dry to sand, although you can push it a hair with wet sanding. Concentrate on getting even coats without runs. Everything else will be easy after that.

11-03-2009, 01:46 PM	#12
Flathead Red Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 413	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods These are some excellent tips. I am getting ready to shoot the A- Arms on my 40 Ford. Anyone have any experience with the "Extreme Chassis Black" from Eastwood? I purchased two cans to paint my front end, starting with the A- Arms. Flathead Red __________________ 'The best prize that life offers ...... work hard at work worth doing' Teddy Roosevelt

11-04-2009, 11:18 PM	#16
back2class Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 1,309	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods It comes down to practice. I can get smaller objects like a motorcycle fender or smaller to look like glass. The "melting" in multople coats is spot on. I first spray a thin film coat and let that tack up. Then quick overlapping strokes back and fourth releasing the nozzle at the end of each stroke. Warm paint is ideal but I would never warm the object to be painted. Flash over is your enemy wit rattle cans. Thats why it is impossible to get a perfect coat on bigger objects unless you buff them out. After my first film coat the next coat is heavier and should flow to a glass like shine that may still be a little transparent. Wait till it is tacky, maybe like thick maple syrup and apply a third coat just enough fresh paint where the solvents melt the under ocat and flow out to a deep gloss. As noted rustolieum tacks up different than krylon or most other brands. I find it to be thicker and when applied right takes a full day to get dry to the touch and more to be hardened enough to handle. Krylon and most others I find a little more runny and with less solids, but dries quicker. I perfer the rustolium as it comes out thicker and to me is less prone to drip as you attempt to build up proper film thickness. On a side note. I got so good with cans before I ever tried a real gun and 2 part paints that when I tried it the first time, it came out much better than a factory finish. Getting great results with a can in much harder but easy of you know the limitations and practice. I made no mention of primer or sanding. But my experience is 400-600 grit wet on spray primer is fine as a good film thickness with the finish coat will fill any scratches. Last edited by back2class; 11-04-2009 at 11:20 PM.

11-06-2009, 01:44 AM	#20
Eldogg Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Gainesville, GA Posts: 48	Re: painting things with a rattle can......methods My friends make fun of LARGE spray can collection but after I paint paint something they always shut up! I love the gun attachment. Try some Lawson Products High Solids you will be hooked. __________________ Eric Evans Queen City Speed www.queencityspeed.net Performance Parts & Service, Nitrous Refills, Vinyl Graphics & Lettering & More.........

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