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Old 08-24-2005, 01:41 AM   #1
REFLEXX
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Default The Garage Mahal!

Hello all,

I've finally started to detail the entire process of building the "Garage Mahal". I figure that if anyone's foolish enough to try this, I'll pass along eveything I learned.

EDIT---> I've removed the link to my website that details the build until I finishin it!

The basics:

1,440 sq ft - Miracle Truss steel/wood building.

1 office, 1 storage room, 1 machining room, 1 fabrication room.

fully insulated, 3 air conditioners, drywalled & painted (someday soon!)

Later,

REFLEXX
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Old 08-24-2005, 02:44 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REFLEXX
Hello all,

I've finally started to detail the entire process of building the "Garage Mahal". I figure that if anyone's foolish enough to try this, I'll pass along eveything I learned.

Gene's Garage Mahal
Keep in mind that the site is brand new and a work in progress

The basics:

1,440 sq ft - Miracle Truss steel/wood building.

1 office, 1 storage room, 1 machining room, 1 fabrication room.

fully insulated, 3 air conditioners, drywalled & painted (someday soon!)

Later,

REFLEXX
cool, looks great...keep the pictures coming ..

Jim
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Old 08-24-2005, 03:39 PM   #3
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I might steal a couple ideas from you......looks great. However, if your computer aided design picture is detailing what looks like a bridgeport and other equipment in the machining room......I don't see a way to get that equipment in or out of the room once the walls are up. Any plans for a roll up door or anything in that area?
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Old 08-24-2005, 09:03 PM   #4
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Sweet!

What program did you draw that plan in?
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Old 08-24-2005, 11:25 PM   #5
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Looks Like Solidworks To Me !!

Great Work...
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Old 08-25-2005, 12:38 AM   #6
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Gents.

the wall between the red tool box and the CNC mill is removable. I figure that the wall will not have to come out that often.

Solidworks is right.

Just finished interior framing, ready to start electrical. Just need a clue

Here's a CAD of the shop on the property (I had lots of time before the building got here)

The other pic is of the inside with no interior walls.

REFLEXX
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Old 08-29-2005, 05:15 PM   #7
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Wow, looks nice, keep us updated!
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:59 PM   #8
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beautiful job.beautiful view!
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Old 08-30-2005, 01:33 PM   #9
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I've been framed!!! The big opening on the right will have a removable "false wall" once I move everything in.

Now I'm ready for electrical

It's good to have friends and connections, cherish them! Otherwise I couldn't afford to do this if I had to pay a contractor.

REFLEXX
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Old 09-23-2005, 01:05 AM   #10
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Gents,

Here's a little update:

after buying every electrical book at HD and bugging several (life-long) electricians, I jumped into wiring with both (left) feet.

the List:

7x 20a receptacle circuits, about 8 duplex outlets each, +3 outside

3x 30a circuits to disconnect boxes (for machines & air compressor)

4x 30a receptacle circuits for welder/plasma (+1 outside!!!)

4x 20a lighting circuits (3 rooms + outside Mo Sens & work lights)

and my favorite:

1x 100a circuit for the little CNC, that uses 2/3 ROMEX. I didn't know it came that big. It's in the picture, looks like a black garden hose and is slightly bigger!!!

now I have to trench to the panel on the house and bury some 2ought cable in 3" conduit about 75 feet. Oh, and install the new 400a panel on the house!

I recall the ad in the back of Pop Sci for Miracle Truss buildings, "Four buddies, one weekend, and you too can have this..." pictured was a finished building

Later,

REFLEXX

PS: and I did have a "little" help
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Old 09-23-2005, 01:16 AM   #11
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Oh!

and while most 14 year old daughters are at the mall, spending your money....

Mine's workin'!

yep, that's called raisin' them right!

REFLEXX
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Old 09-23-2005, 10:20 AM   #12
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Why are you pulling electrical before you are closed in from the elements?
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Old 09-24-2005, 03:57 AM   #13
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Wile,

The elements in this part of the world vary from 70 degrees to an unbearable 90 degrees for the next two months. Not to mention the horrible, ZERO precent humidity. Yes we have the traffic, liberals, illegals, crime.... but DAMN the weather is always really nice in So. Cal.

Pulling cable (especially the 1" diameter 2/3 romex) was much easier when there are no walls on. The walls are the same metal skin that goes on the roof. That's next after the framing inspection is thru!

later,

REFLEXX
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Old 09-24-2005, 01:00 PM   #14
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Are you going to build a retaining wall behind the building. It looks like you dug down about 3 feet.
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Old 09-24-2005, 07:09 PM   #15
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Good eye MAC,

That is decomposed granite, DG as it's called. I took a backhoe to it and that's all I could scrape off after a day of grinding aways at it. It's not moving! With as little rain as we get and how small that rise is, I should have no problems.

then again the county inspector cound have thier panites in a bunch and make me put one it. But so far they haven't even noticed. I will plant some ground cover, just to help a but with erosion, look better. and control some dust.

REFLEXX
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Old 09-27-2005, 07:57 PM   #16
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That looks like it's gonna be a killer garage/shop when you're done!
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Old 10-16-2005, 10:28 PM   #17
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another update...


interior electrical is DONE!

framing is DONE!

attic is DONE!

door hanging is DONE!

started to wrap & skin the building this weekend. as a part of the process, the windows and all openings needed to be trimmed and weatherproofed.

the funny thing is 99% of the materials for this build was purchased at Home %$#&@ Depot, but the gift wrap is from Lowes!

a lot of drilling, screwing, cutting, trimming, measuring and time....


REFLEXX
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Old 10-16-2005, 10:42 PM   #18
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the biggest frustration in building is waiting to work on my babies...

both are getting FULL ground-up customization.

REFLEXX
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Old 10-23-2005, 09:14 AM   #19
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How big is the garage that you are building?? Look like it is coming along very well...
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Old 10-23-2005, 02:09 PM   #20
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Nice progress! Keep us posted.
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Old 10-24-2005, 01:42 PM   #21
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One more wall left and the box is complete. Then there's two thousand screws and trim.

It's really cool to see the interior with walls, it gives you a much better sense of size.

For anyone who thinks of using a snap line for aligning all the screws, DON'T DO IT! I bought a laser level at Costco (like $40) and it shoots a line across the building. Works perfect!



REFLEXX
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:55 PM   #22
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The plastic sheeting looks like a big Lowe's ad!


Just kidding, that garage looks great!
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Old 10-31-2005, 07:12 PM   #23
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More pics coming soon. The building is now fully skinned, now time to install the white trim. A milestone in my book.

Some one asked the size. The building is 30" x 48". I chose what's called "flat" bracing, so it will be hidden when the drywall goes up. I didn't like the visible X bracing I've seen inside other steel buildings.

I added 8 windows, 1 garage door (8'6" x 10 wide), 1 man door. This has been a chit-load of work.

REFLEXX
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Old 10-31-2005, 08:05 PM   #24
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I have a similar type of garage. Same size to, lookin good man!
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Old 11-03-2005, 01:44 AM   #25
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the latest before & after pics!
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Old 11-03-2005, 01:18 PM   #26
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Outstanding! How did you raise the frames into place? I'm building a 42' x 48', 14' eave, Miracle Truss this coming summer, trying to figure out the best way to do that.
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Old 11-03-2005, 03:04 PM   #27
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Dave,

M-I-C-K-E-Y M-O-U-S-E That's how we raised the trusses! It got done, done fast and nobody hurt, but OSHA would certainly not approve


I'll post more info soon,

REFLEXX
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Old 01-03-2006, 01:17 AM   #28
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UPDATE TIME!!!

It's been a while and slow going as usual being a one man (+wife +3 kid) operation. Here's what's done:

1. all electrical inside the building is done (110v / 220v) and rough electrical is signed off!

2. Alarm, cctv, cat5, speaker, phone, rg6 cables all run. You gotta be wired for the future. Now every room will have internet, sat tv, speakers and phone. And outside there's the security cameras and alarm wiring.

3. The building is SEALED. spray foam, tape, silicone, damn near as waterproof as a submarine.

4. All doors and windows in. Garage door in (outsourced and a superb job done!)

4. insulation is 90% done.


What's left:

1. Drywall hang/tape/sand <---that might get outsourced 4x12x 5/8" drywall sheets are heavy.

2. BIG electrical. Still have to trench to the house, run the cable underground and install the replacement meter panel on the house.

3. epoxy the floors (epoxy-coat.com)

4. paint & stripe <--- can't wait for that!

5. hand cabinets & paint

6. MOVE IN!!!

holy-crapoly a lot to still do!!! at least I have my teen-slave-labor-helper-girls!!!
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Old 01-03-2006, 03:11 AM   #29
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That is going to be a killer garage when your done. Miracle Truss is a great way to go, almost went that way myself. Great looking insulation, maybe I even helped to make it. I work at the JM insulation plant in Northern California.
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Old 01-03-2006, 11:28 AM   #30
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Rat,

One of the reasons I used Miracle Truss is because it allowed me to used regular insulation, instead of the expensive stuff designed for steel buildings.

PS- for anyone that's going to be repeating this step. BUY AN ELECTRIC STAPLER, and a heavy duty one! I broke two "hammer-tacker" type staplers during this, then I bought a $30 electric stapler, still not good enough! Buy one that around $50 and save your arms.
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Old 01-03-2006, 05:37 PM   #31
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REFLEXX,


If my Dad did not help with the cost of building our shop. I would have went with Miracle Truss, Just for that reason alone. My friend went with US Building style and it can get a little warm or cold in it, but it cost about a third as much as mine.

Also I got tired of using my hammer tacker and just put it up the insulation without Stapling it.
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Old 01-03-2006, 07:33 PM   #32
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If I put up another shed it will either have foamed walls or blown in cellulose in the walls. The fiberglass batts haunt me to this day.
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Old 01-05-2006, 11:49 PM   #33
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reflex,

I would look forward to your trenching! I have to trench 600 feet, across two of my neighbors properties, under a common driveway, through the woods, and under my personal driveway. Now my local power company wants me to run 4" conduit the entire length!!! hemi
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Old 01-05-2006, 11:59 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hemi
reflex,

I would look forward to your trenching! I have to trench 600 feet, across two of my neighbors properties, under a common driveway, through the woods, and under my personal driveway. Now my local power company wants me to run 4" conduit the entire length!!! hemi
You're trenching across your neighbors' yards?? Wow, I'm surprised they gave you permission. I guess you have to invite them over for some beers after the fact.
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Old 01-06-2006, 09:01 AM   #35
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Ratdawg...

The US Building looks like an economical alteranative!

I like the clear span...no rafters or trusses to get in the way

Is that a DIY project like they claim?
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Old 01-06-2006, 01:01 PM   #36
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OHEKK,

Thats why he went with US Building. He felt it was something he could do, without hiring a contractor. Just make sure you have enough help to raise each section.
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Old 01-17-2006, 01:35 PM   #37
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update!

insulation of outside walls is FINISHED!!! I had to add some lumber for the drywall to attach to and started putting up the sheetrock! A couple of thing's I've learned so far:

1. Shim & shave the walls and ceilings. After checking with a 6 foot level, I used a planer to shave the high spots on the wood. Then i used special (paper) shim strips (from HD) to build up the low spots, I just stapled them on. I ended up with walls that within 1/16" flat top to bottom.

2. Buy a planer, don't try to do it by hand. Buy a cheapie then toss it (from HF), or buy a nice one and keep it for wood working projects.

3. DRYWALL HOIST / LIFT! Don't even try to put up ceilings without one! i bought one off ebay for $200 and it works like a charm!!!

4. SENCO self feeding screw gun. What an awesome tool. it buries the drywall screws PERFECTLY every time and only using one hand!!! I bought the corded one, because if I use it again two years from now, the battery on a cordless one would be shot! Plus it was cheaper (only $100)

5. get help, at least 2-3 people and buy the drywall books at HD, they were a great help.

6. Use a Rotozip for outlets holes, especially the round ones!

6. And the BEST tool by far it called the "BLINDMARK". It's SOOO easy to use to help locate the outlet boxes: http://www.blindmark.com/ put one piece into the outlet box, put up the drywall with a few screws, snap on the opposing locator piece, draw a line around it, and cut out! That's it, no need to take the drywall back off! Superb.
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Old 01-17-2006, 06:37 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REFLEXX
update!

insulation of outside walls is FINISHED!!! I had to add some lumber for the drywall to attach to and started putting up the sheetrock! A couple of thing's I've learned so far:

3. DRYWALL HOIST / LIFT! Don't even try to put up ceilings without one! i bought one off ebay for $200 and it works like a charm!!!
I agree 1000% - I rented one for the weekend and sheetrocked my shop myself.

your place looks great!
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Old 01-17-2006, 07:00 PM   #39
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reflexx,

I watched the movie over at the Blindmark site and it looks neater than all get out. Are the magnets strong enough to go thru T1-11 or 5/8 OSB? it sure would save a lot of time and materials @ 25.00 a sheet!

Scot

P.S. How would you use it for a dbl box?
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Old 01-17-2006, 08:12 PM   #40
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paradise,

The Blindmark was holding through MY HAND at the palm. I'm using 5/8" drywall and it held on well! For double or triple boxes, you just put two inner pieces at the outermost positions, put the outside piece on one then the other, and connect them. The show it on the website somewhere.
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Old 01-19-2006, 12:17 PM   #41
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One quick question. I noticed that your garage door track follow the arc of the roof line/ceiling. That is a great way to save on space, but how on earth do you keep the doors in the open posistion?

Thanx!
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Old 01-19-2006, 01:14 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rasputin
One quick question. I noticed that your garage door track follow the arc of the roof line/ceiling. That is a great way to save on space, but how on earth do you keep the doors in the open posistion?

Thanx!
Thats a "follow the roof pitch" door track and the springs hold the door up just like they do on a normal setup. You can cut the ends of the regular track at an angle to allow this to work with a lower angle roof. When I purchased my doors it was only a few more $$ for the manufacture to do it.
William.....
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Old 01-19-2006, 01:23 PM   #43
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What W said is right on. In my case it was $250 more to have the door installed. Otherwise it would have taken me two days.

Now that I've seen how it's done, I'd have no problem doing it myself (without the trial and error part).

The door balances perfectly, stays above the opening and stays down (without springing up).

Some door places I spoke to said they will not do it because of liability. "If the spring breaks, the door comes slamming down." I'm more worried about my Diet Coke addiction killing me.
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Old 02-07-2006, 04:55 PM   #44
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I've determined that this is no longer a garage. It's a damn house for my tools to live in!!!

Drywall is 50% complete (hanging, not finishing). Only the big FAB room is left. It's time consuming, there's no way around that. I could be a hypocrite and hire a bunch of illegals. But I will not. 100% American "made." Well that's not really true; I'm Ukranian, the wIfe's a New Yorker, the Kids are Khazakhstani., the dog is German and they all have helped tremendously!

You can see where the metal trusses are now hidden. The only gripe is each beam adds FOUR edges/corners to mud & tape!

Now I'm debating wether or not to mud & tape & texture, or to hire someone (legal) to do it for me.

I cannot wait to paint, I'm really looking forward to putting some racing stripes on this baby!!!

I'd like to move in end of this month. HAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!
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Old 02-07-2006, 05:51 PM   #45
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I just looked at the "views" count for my little project. Holy-crapoly it's almost 11,000!!!

I'm wondering if I should have called it "the shack" instead of the "Garage Mahal". I don't want to dissapoint anyone after looking at the "My New Garage 1300000$" post. I don't even belong in the top ten, at least not yet.

Perhaps I should just rename it "My new garage $100,000 max, with everything it it!"
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Old 02-08-2006, 10:38 PM   #46
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better check your local electrical codes,, if you get caught without the sides up and exposed wiring (exposed to weather,rain) here in arkansas you would have to pull it all out,,, be careful!! rj
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Old 02-08-2006, 10:45 PM   #47
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Wires are all buttoned up, the skins went up three weeks after the wires. Inspectors had no issues, agreed that it was an easier way to do it.
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Old 02-18-2006, 03:15 PM   #48
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Your garage looks great. Both my father in law and brother in law have 26X40 garages and hopefully one day I'll be adding a 26X30 to my current 20x20.

Keep up the good work and keep posting pics.
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Old 02-22-2006, 05:45 PM   #49
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Updates!

This drywall is heavy! I had to buy an extension for the panel lift to reach my 15ft peaked ceiling. I also had to buy an additional 21 sheets of 4x12x 5/8" sheetrock!!! That will make 92 sheets total, with about 3-4 sheets of wasted material included. Luckily I bought the first 70 sheets at $13, now they are $17 each!

Another 1 or 2 weeks and I'll be ready to mud/tape/sand. But I will probably have someone do it for me.

The first estimate I got for "hanging drywall and ready for paint" was $8,500. That was because I wanted a smooth wall finish, which is very expensive and perhaps not necessary. The drywall guy said that 30% of that cost was just the prep for a smooth wall.

Now with me hanging all the drywall and requesting a light "orange peel" texture, the cost will be considerably less and within my budget. Plus the orange peel will hide any imperfections in the walls.

Meanwhile I finished up the electrical panel. The main feeder line is not in yet and the fat wires you see that are not hooked up are for the CNC mill.
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Old 02-23-2006, 05:06 AM   #50
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Who ever wired your panel did a super job.It looks like art work... !
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Old 02-23-2006, 11:02 AM   #51
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thanks.

That would be me. "Do it once, do it right"
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Old 02-28-2006, 10:35 PM   #52
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Quote:
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thanks.

That would be me. "Do it once, do it right"

Reflexx,

only a man who has spent quality time with machine tools would wire a box with such style and grace, and be repulsed by anything less Are you running the mill and vmc on single phase ? I have been following your progress since joining a couple of months ago and admire your work! I have about 10 more questions, but I'll save them for a PM. I hope you don't mind. regards, hemi
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Old 03-01-2006, 02:39 AM   #53
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Hemi,

thanks for the compliments. Your answers:

The knee mill is a "Kent" with a 5hp variable frequency drive. All I have to do is wire it differently and it accepts single phase. I lose about 25% power, but it's still more than a regular "Bridgeport" at 3HP.

The CNC mill is a different story. My machine needs 38amps @ 3phase. in single phase I need 60amps to be safe. The phase converter I'm buying is called "Phase Perfect" it's the worlds first (and patented and expensive) Digital Converter. But it needs 80amp service to be safe. So, in my usual overbuilt manner, the wiring and breaker is big enough to handle 125AMPS!

I may be broke when I'm done, but I'll have a damn nice shop!
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Old 03-01-2006, 02:35 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REFLEXX
Hemi,

thanks for the compliments. Your answers:

The knee mill is a "Kent" with a 5hp variable frequency drive. All I have to do is wire it differently and it accepts single phase. I lose about 25% power, but it's still more than a regular "Bridgeport" at 3HP.

The CNC mill is a different story. My machine needs 38amps @ 3phase. in single phase I need 60amps to be safe. The phase converter I'm buying is called "Phase Perfect" it's the worlds first (and patented and expensive) Digital Converter. But it needs 80amp service to be safe. So, in my usual overbuilt manner, the wiring and breaker is big enough to handle 125AMPS!

I may be broke when I'm done, but I'll have a damn nice shop!
If your VFD mill runs at -25% of power on single phase you have some thing all messed up! Is the VFD undersized??

If you mill is listed as having a current requirement of 38 amps then you need 38 amps to be safe not 60 :-) I bet if you take your clamp on amp meter ( you do have one right?) and hook it up the the mill running at full bore you will not pull any where near the 38 amps on any of the legs. Try it and report back...

How much is the patented expensive digital snake oil selling for?? BTW if the device requires 80 amps feed it with a 80 amp breaker do NOT use a 125 amp, bigger is not better here. You can use the 125 amp wire if you want to waste some $$ or if you really need it (voltage drop)

Also both of your mills will run just fine off a rpc. Thousands do every day! Just don't feed the generated leg to the leg the controls run on, and your fine.
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Old 03-01-2006, 03:32 PM   #55
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W,

The Kent mill guys say that the VFD wired for 1ph will be about 4hp.

I spoke to the guys from Cincinatti, they make my ARROW 500 CNC. They have seen several machines damaged (fried boards) by Rotary Phase Converters (RPCs). The specifically say NOT to do it. The drives (axis, not spindle) are slowly destroyed by "slightly dirty" power that a rotary converters generate.

The www.phaseperfect.com units are digital and they guarantee power that is CLEANER than utility supplied power. The info on the site backs that up and they have many CNC mills doing just fine with thier units. Not to mention that they are silent compared to rotary units inside the same room with me! The units are $2,500 (DPC-10) or $4,000 (DPC-20) depending which one I'll need. I cannot afford to damage a $50,000 machine.

If you know more about this, please post. I'd love to save some money.
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Old 03-01-2006, 05:06 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REFLEXX
W,

The Kent mill guys say that the VFD wired for 1ph will be about 4hp.

I spoke to the guys from Cincinatti, they make my ARROW 500 CNC. They have seen several machines damaged (fried boards) by Rotary Phase Converters (RPCs). The specifically say NOT to do it. The drives (axis, not spindle) are slowly destroyed by "slightly dirty" power that a rotary converters generate.

The www.phaseperfect.com units are digital and they guarantee power that is CLEANER than utility supplied power. The info on the site backs that up and they have many CNC mills doing just fine with thier units. Not to mention that they are silent compared to rotary units inside the same room with me! The units are $2,500 (DPC-10) or $4,000 (DPC-20) depending which one I'll need. I cannot afford to damage a $50,000 machine.

If you know more about this, please post. I'd love to save some money.
Sounds like your VFD on that machine is undersized for operation on single phase. you could replace it with a larger one if you NEED the power, but I would just hook it to a generated 3 phase sub system ( a 3 phase panel with the 3 phase power supplied from what ever means you decide to make it.) BTW. the RPC "circuit" is "enhanced" with more 3 phase motors running at one time on it.

I looked at their site before I posted :-)
I couldn't find any guarentee of any such thing at their site. I saw some rather "interesting" claims about their product. I also read their technical paper. I'm not impressed. Answer this one question does the system run correctly on the "(evil, nasty, dirty power:-)" that the power co supply now?? If so, why do you need a better system than that?? I also find it strange their example system used 2 phases of a 3 phase 208 volt service for their "test" why not a single phase 240 volt system like 99.9% of the people that would run this system would have??

As for the Fried boards... YES of course they have seen fried boards. Hook any 120 to ground volt application to 208-240 volts to ground (on a generated or wild leg system) and POOF you will fry it. That's why I told you NOT to do that :-) Is your mill the 15 hp model? Look at the circuit for you machine and see if any of the servo's power supplies are 3 phase I bet they are not.

William..
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Old 03-01-2006, 05:53 PM   #57
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William.

You've got a PM!
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Old 03-01-2006, 11:53 PM   #58
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Reflexx,
just when things were getting interesting, bam, got PMed. " "
see ya,, hemi
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Old 03-02-2006, 02:56 AM   #59
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William (W-Cummins) and Hemi,

I PMed William to continue this conversation via that OTHER communication system (phone!) and he was kind enough to call me back! We spent a good half hour on the phone.

He explained and convinced me that a rotary would work for my application and potentially save me $3,000!!! I'll contact the RPC manufacturers and the machine builder to confirm, but everything he told me made logical sense.

He also explained some of the wiring questions I had about grounding my shop's panel and the new house panel. Not just how to wire it, but why it should be that way.

All this info would have taken dozens of postings back and forth!

A BIG THANK YOU TO W-CUMMINS! For taking the time to help a fellow junkie. You're now my electrical Guru.
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Old 03-06-2006, 03:11 PM   #60
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I just read through this whole thread. What I think is even better than the AWESOME shop that's there is the fact that the daughters helped build it. Very, very cool.

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Old 03-16-2006, 12:16 AM   #61
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OK! Update time. It has been a while and it's been a LOT of work.

Managed to put up 92 sheets of drywall (4'x12'x5/8" thick!) mostly nights and weekends. That's 4,400 sq feet of sheetrock and 4,500 drywall screws! I would guess that's about 4-5 sheets of waste material (cut off ends, openings, etc). 80% of the work was solo, with help from MOM, wife and daughter to load the sheets onto the lifter. My guy friends don't come around anymore Big sissies, all of them!

Only one sheet fell of the lift and it had to be from the highest point! It was a slow slip and it wasn't going to hit me. I just cringed and watched it commit suicide. 1 sheet + 15ft drop = 12 random pieces. I was done for the night.

I will not say that it was difficult work. But my arms and shoulders were aching after a few hours.

must have tools:

The "Blindmark", the drywall lift (with 15ft extension), utility knife, 100 pack of fresh blades, drywall "hole" saw, the cheesegrater file (for cleaning ends), a ROTOZIP or equivalent, 4x8ft worktable, chalk snapline, drywall T-square, Senco Gun, cordless drill (for screwing manually) and a lot of Diet Coke.

The next step is the metal corners, taping, mudding, sanding and texturing. I've hired someone to do it for me. It would take me too long and I lack the experience. Somethings I let the PROs do for me. It's expensive (around here everything is) but this guy does a lot of commercial work (hospitals, etc..) and promised good results. $5,000 is the bill. More than I wanted to pay, but that's how it goes. He is basically doing a 1,500 sq ft house with arched ceilings and a lot of corners (the boxed trusses).

Meanwhile I'm putting in the big and little electrical. Everything from trenching the main feeds to installing receptacles and switches.
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Old 03-16-2006, 12:24 AM   #62
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A few more pics and info.

The garage door was an area I wanted to "clean up" so here's what I did.

Every garage door I've ever seen always uses those ugly perforated metal angles to moun the back of the tracks. They are also a bitch to drywall around. So I started thinking.....

First you see that the tracks match the angle of the ceiling, thay also match the angle of the trusses that happen to be very close!

So I decided to get rid of the metal angles and relpace them with something a little more elegant.

One one side I just used a 2" long round spacer and bolted thru the track and into the vertical beam. Left side metal angle....all gone!

On the other side, I cut and bent up a piece of 3/16" steel and welded it to the truss. Then I just bolted the track to that. No more ugly metal going into the ceiling and hanging/finishing drywall just got easier!!!

Nice and smooth lookin' IMHO.
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Old 03-16-2006, 12:56 AM   #63
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Holy crap....$5K for drywall finishing? Dang, that's a tough hit. It's hard to tell how much rock that is, but 4400 sqft sounds like a lot. Looks nice, though. I like your track "mod".

BTW, that cheesegrater thing is called a rasp.
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Old 03-16-2006, 11:02 AM   #64
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I love that garage door track hanger treatment. I showed it to a neighbor this morning who is building a new shop. He had just started putting up his "traditional" perforated angle iron hangers but decided to remove the angle irons after seeing your idea and do something similar.

Your whole "Garage Mahal" thing is fantastic. Can't wait to see the finished product.
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Old 03-16-2006, 01:32 PM   #65
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Quote:
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Holy crap....$5K for drywall finishing? Dang, that's a tough hit. It's hard to tell how much rock that is, but 4400 sqft sounds like a lot. Looks nice, though. I like your track "mod".
Lay the sheets out end to end, thats roughly 1/4 mile if my math is correct
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Old 03-16-2006, 05:12 PM   #66
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Dude... you got an all female drywall crew. You da man!
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Old 03-31-2006, 02:10 PM   #67
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Got any updates? I have been waiting patiently J/K

I saw a post you had at one time saying the kit was about 14000 without the wood. What all does that include? I got my packet in the mail from MiracleTruss the other day and plan to go with them when I build.
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Old 04-01-2006, 02:42 AM   #68
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Smatter o'fact I was about to post an update!

The drywall mudding/taping/sanding/texturing guys finished in about a week. They skipped some days to let stuff dry, other wise it's about 4 guys x 4 days of work. It would have taken me a month straight and I wouldn't have come close to what they did. The tools they had and the speed at which they worked was amazing. I'm a perfectionist (as if nobody noticed) and they did a REALLY GOOD job, I mean it's damn near perfect. The texturing was exactly what I wanted. Very light and smooth. The boss's son (who supervised the job) didn't want any money until I was 100% satisfied. This was money well spent. Between me shimming and shaving the walls, putting up the drywall and them doing the finishing work, the walls turned out DEAD FLAT!

Lesson here: Sometimes the PROs are the way to go!


Meanwhile I was working on upgrading the BIG electrical. New weather head and a new panel on the house. From a decrepid 125 amp panel to a 400amp monster. 200 to the shop and 200 for the house. The panel is now on and awaiting inspection and electric co to move the meter. Here I had help too, a friend drove 2 hours to spend the day with me. He's a lifelong electrician and made it all look easy. He wired it so we have power till the meter get's changed over. I was just the helper this day. Learned a bunch too.

Lesson here: It's good to have connections and still drop some cash for friends who go WAY out of thier way to help you on a weekday.

this past week:

Monday- Walls are textured and I get the big panel mounted. I ask the drywall guys to leave the floor coverings in place since I will be painting ASAP.

Tuesday- painted the main truss in the "fab" room Hammerite black and mask it off.

Wednesday- damn work gets in the way.

Thursday- mask windows and doors. Spray 15 gallons of Behr PVA drywall primer on 4,200 sqft of wall. Bought a Wagner "Paint Crew 770" from Costco. Worked fantastic till it quit ON GALLON #11! It's 6PM and I'm not done priming. I tear it apart and see that there's a piece broken. I'm screwed. I fly to Home Depot (8pm) and buy the exact same thing (except it's called a Paint Crew XTRA). It works fine and I finish priming around 11pm. Paint Crew #1 is going back to Costco soon, It's defective in my book. If #2 craps out, I've got 30 days to take it back to HD.

Friday (03/31)- Fire up the Wagner and lay down (and up) 10 gallons of Behr Pure Premium Ultra White (Consumer reports #1 for semi-gloss indoor latex). Two light coats give me a NICE finish, but my arms dont work anymore. The sprayer holds up just fine and I'm keeping it. I spend about an hour tearing it apart and cleaning it. It turned DAYS of work into about 14 total hours of priming and painting (for 1,500 Sq FT!)


PAINTING LESSONS LEARNED:

1. Airless sprayer ALL THE WAY. super easy, but masking everything and protecting youself is a must! Whatever is not masked, gets painted (see pic below) I did a horizontal pattern and then a vertical pattern to cover up from about 12-16" away. Ear muffs and a good respirator make the job fun.

2. strain your paint and thin a little bit. The 5 gallon buckets of paint didn't come filled to the rim. The paint (and primer) were about a inch and a half below. So I just add water to the rim and mixed in. Sprayed real nice, no clogs.

3. stilts would have been nice for spraying the 9ft ceilings, but a step stool worked.

4. make sure the masking in on, otherwise the spray will blow paint underneath stuff.

5. reward your kids for helping. After they helped unmask everything and helped get all the crap off the floor (mostly heavy paper and tape) I let them play "stuntman!" with the pile of coverings. Who need a trampoline when you've got a construction site!!!
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Old 04-01-2006, 02:52 AM   #69
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Kuhl,

By the time I'm done, I'll probably be about $70-80,000 finished. But as you can see, it's all top of the line, insulated, etc.... Basically it's overkill.

a normal "shop" would be MUCH less. THe "BIG" expense are the kit, the wood and the concrete. The rest is icing on the cake, but still adds up quickly. EVERY trip to Home Depot is hundreds of dollars, some were thousands.

I'm broke, but getting happier every day. My deadline for moving in is 3-4 weeks.
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Old 04-01-2006, 06:29 AM   #70
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Looks good! I, too, sprayed my garage and agree with what you've said.

It looks like your mask wasn't working too well - I see some white nose hairs!
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Old 04-01-2006, 12:57 PM   #71
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The nose hairs are from when I was cleaning/purging the spray gun. Didn't think to wear the mask during cleaning. Nose hairs now trimmed (I didn't realize the extent of the "nostril wooly" I had going on till I painted them!!!
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Old 04-01-2006, 01:46 PM   #72
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I love this thread
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Old 04-03-2006, 03:37 PM   #73
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I would live in it.
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Old 04-04-2006, 12:59 AM   #74
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More updates!

It's like a long distance runner that can finally see the finish line. I've got this urge to work on it 24/7. Soooooo close.

I'm probably breaking some child labor laws, but the kids LOVE painting stuff. The grey is on 50" up and the black/red stripe will follow soon. Two coats of Behr Semi Gloss grey (they have like 20 different shades, I picked the most "industrial" one.)

I used the lazer beam to throw a line across the walls then masked with blue tape. Same lazer I used for doing the exterior screws. Very handy (and now at Costco for $25)

Today's project is the trenching. Rented from HD for $120 for four hours and that's exactly how ling I had it for. The actual trenching took about 2:45. The trench to the house was thru pure DG (decomposed granite) and was very slow going. The other trench was thru relatively soft fill dirt and went fast. I still have 3-4 feet of trench to do by hand and that is hell. I have a huge pick axe and it's gonna take hours.

I know that the ditch isn't straight, but I had to stay away from the propane lines. It actually worked out great, cuz' the pipes are slightly bent and I just pick the matching curves and drop them in.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg childlabor.jpg (43.7 KB, 1129 views)
File Type: jpg wallpaint.jpg (35.7 KB, 787 views)
File Type: jpg draintrench.jpg (72.7 KB, 664 views)
File Type: jpg trenchingfun.jpg (72.9 KB, 872 views)
File Type: jpg maintrench.jpg (73.0 KB, 644 views)
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Old 04-06-2006, 11:06 AM   #75
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Great shop. Hope to have something that nice one day.
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Old 04-07-2006, 09:45 PM   #76
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

I posted this in another thread about picking stripe colors and designs, but here's the latest....

I just might skip the red stripe, black alone is lookin good! A laser line is critical for application.

I found the perfect "stripes" at Mcmaster.com Page 1763 $19 for a 60 yard roll! This stuff is like thick electrical tape, and shows the texture of the walls underneath. You'd swear it's painted on with razor sharp lines! The finish is best described as "semi-gloss" which matches the paint perfectly.

The specs:
------------------
Solid Color Marking Tape
This general purpose, adhesive-backed PVC tape is 6.8 mils thick and is supplied on a 3" ID cardboard spool. Meets Fed. Spec. PPP-T-66, Type 1, Class 2. For indoor and outdoor use. To Order: Please specify black, blue, green, magenta, orange, red, white, or yellow.
------------------

Here are pics of the before and after:
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File Type: jpg 100_8366-web6x4.JPG (54.0 KB, 415 views)
File Type: jpg 100_8365-web6x4.JPG (64.2 KB, 788 views)
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Old 04-09-2006, 11:18 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hemi
reflex,

I would look forward to your trenching! I have to trench 600 feet, across two of my neighbors properties, under a common driveway, through the woods, and under my personal driveway. Now my local power company wants me to run 4" conduit the entire length!!! hemi
600ft of 4in. pipe is going to cost you a ton. Willy Victor
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Old 04-27-2006, 11:50 AM   #78
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Gents,

It's been a while and I've been a busy guy. I've done a lot to the shop and will be posting MUCH info soon. As for now, I had a member PM me about my Epoxy-coat experience and I wanted to share that first:


PREP:

According to Epoxy-coat, you can sand (80-100 grit) or etch the floor, both are NOT necessary. I chose to sand and mop since my concrete is stain free and about 8 months old. I rented a pad sander from Home Depot and bought 10 sheets of 80 grit. The concrete was not as smooth as I liked, it had trowel marks in many places. The sander took care of that! First I went around and scraped any splatters of dried paint or drywall mud. Then I broomed all the big chunks. As for the actual sanding it took only 3 hours and 8 sheets to get the floor looking great and "baby's ass" smooth. I really liked the results. The dust wasn't too bad (the sander comes with a "catch bag") but I still wore a respirator/mask. Concrete dust is certainly not good for you and dries out your skin big time.

Immediatley after that I took my shop vac with brush and went to town. I vacuumed the entire floor a few times and all the nooks/crannies. There was still a layer of "chalk" on the floor. I bought one of those industrial mop wringer and bucket deals and "moist mopped" the entire floor. I clean out the water and mop about eight times to make sure that I'm not just putting the dirt back. The floor must be DRY before you epoxy, so I waited till the next morning to epoxy.

I did about 1,000 sqft with the help of one of my "teen slaves" . I had two "kits" (6 gallons total). I would suggest an extra kit for anyone that's right at the 500 sqft-per-kit limit and lay it on thick! It's an extra $260, but you'll be looking at your floor for a long time!


TOOLS:

Metal paint mixer - the one with the kit is junk and broke.
18" wide roller - lays on the epoxy wide and fast (tray not nec)
Latex gloves - this stuff is sticky
4" roller - for edges
paint pole/broom handle- they give you a squeegee, but no pole.
paper towels & drop cloth

APPLICATION:

I mixed all the grey together (just part A) to make sure the color is the same between batches. Then I mixed three gallons at a time (A 2 gal +B 1 gal). It started to get "sticky" at about 40 minutes, but presented no problems. Two people made this job much easier and quicker, but one can do it.

We started by cutting-in (painting around the perimiter against the walls) with the 4" roller. We then did 10' x 5' areas at at time, otherwise you couldnt throw the flakes far enought to reach every spot! We went heavy on the flakes, I'm hoping it will make it more durable and less slippery (since I didn't add the sand/sillica/grit). The technique is to take the paint can and pour out a line of epoxy and then squeegee it around. Follow up with the roller. This stuff is too thick to just roll on, the supplied squeegee really helps spread it out. At first I was concerned about running out of epoxy and spread it out like paint (thin) that was a mistake (see pictures). As it started to dry, dark areas showed up where the concrete absorbed more epoxy! I was pissed, but it was my fault.

So we started to lay it on thick and the problem went away. I still have a few dark areas to fix, but no big deal. I did 700 sq ft with flake and 300 without (in a different room). The next morning I did a second coat in the room with no-flake epoxy and it looks incredible! I also started to touch up the thin areas in the flaked room, but then I ran out of flakes!!! sheesh. I got more coming.


RESULTS:

All in all, I'm very pleased with the results (so far) and would highly recommend Epoxy-coat. This stuff must be very good because I left the squeegee (with some epoxy on it) sitting on the floor and the next day it was STUCK. I mean I couldnt tear it off the concrete! This stuff "epoxied" the rubber to the concrete. I had to scrape it off

I was walking on the stuff 24 hours later and now it's been 3-4 days, the stuff is rock hard. I'm waiting for the flakes to touch-up the last spots and I'm done. Total time 2 days (6 hours per day, nonstop), Total cost about $750 (2 kits + sander + supplies). That's $2 per sq ft, not too shabby.

I'll be posting a lot of updates soon. I've been busy finishing up and getting ready to move in!!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg floor-epoxy.jpg (28.4 KB, 780 views)
File Type: jpg floor-epoxy2.jpg (38.0 KB, 1176 views)
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Old 04-27-2006, 12:49 PM   #79
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Man - I am jealous!

That is some nice work, Reflexx. Awesome, awesome job. I think it is very cool how you summarize everything after you complete each task - what tools it took, the amount of time, the costs and what you learned. I think that is a very nice touch to this thread! Kudos.

Now you just need to place your order for some of my cabinets and workbeches to set everything off!

Keep it coming! I'd like to see more pics of the interior spaces, btw - maybe before finishing and after shots...

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Old 04-27-2006, 01:32 PM   #80
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I rented a pad sander from Home Depot and bought 10 sheets of 80 grit. The concrete was not as smooth as I liked, it had trowel marks in many places. The sander took care of that! First I went around and scraped any splatters of dried paint or drywall mud. Then I broomed all the big chunks. As for the actual sanding it took only 3 hours and 8 sheets to get the floor looking great and "baby's ass" smooth.


So how big was this "pad sander" is it one of those walk behind floor scrubbers or something smaller? And if you don't mind the question, how much was the 80 grit sheets/ Thanks
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Old 04-27-2006, 04:13 PM   #81
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Scott,

You and I are of the same make and model. I've seen your cabinets and what you've done to your place, very-very nice!! I'll post up my Bridgeport "mods" one of these days. If you need a West Coast demo shop for your cabinets, I'd be happy to have them!

Sjsfire,

The pad sander was a walk behind motor with handlebars. I passed the time pretending to be Valentino Rossi. The square sheets were about 14" x 20" in size and about $6 each. They credited me any unused sheets too! Total for the rental was approx $90


more posts coming soon.....
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Old 04-27-2006, 06:49 PM   #82
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Reflexx....

Awesome job and great write-ups. I'm probably going with Epoxy Coat too. My garage is under the house, so I'm wondering how bad the smell was and how long it smelled after the application. Gotta keep the wife happy and wonder how many days I need to ship her out for! What a great space you've got there.

Also, you mention a second coat in the smaller room and a bit of touch-up in the big room with flakes, did the larger room primarily have just one coat? If you put it on thick, is a second coat needed?
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Old 04-27-2006, 07:28 PM   #83
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Greg,

what smell? Just put a fan in a window to suck the fumes out. I didn't notice any at all, till someone walked in and mentioned them. I did have all the windows open and the garage door.

The only reason I did a second coat is because the first was not thick enough. That's why I did the second coat and touch ups. I think one THICK coat is plenty good. This stuff is like milkshake thick, just don't roll it too thin.
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Old 04-28-2006, 09:26 AM   #84
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reflexx-

thanks for the writeup - I'll be doing mine next week. I'm going with the sander like you did, and I'll follow up with the acid-etch.
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Old 06-20-2006, 10:37 PM   #85
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We need an update and more pictures!
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Old 06-21-2006, 11:50 AM   #86
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Sorry guys. Been busy (need to make money to pay for this little project).

Mega updates coming soon!
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Old 06-22-2006, 05:15 PM   #87
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very nice shop! man I cant wait to have something like that! I WILL live in it!
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Old 06-22-2006, 09:12 PM   #88
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Wow, will you adopt me. I'm only 54. I can still mow yards and wash your cars. You are THE MAN.
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Old 06-22-2006, 11:30 PM   #89
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Colt,

If I spend another penny, my wife said I WILL live in it!
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Old 06-24-2006, 07:11 PM   #90
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OK gents, it's time for me to catch up. This info might not be in order and is about 1 to 2 months old but it's good stuff. I've skipped a lot of detail, but this stuff is pretty starightforward as to how to I did it. If anyone's got questions about how any of this was done, just ask.

The big electrical lines were run, the main panel on the house finally got hooked up and the amazing thing is that it ALL worked on the first shot! I now have 200amps at the the house and 200 at the shop.

I bought 30+ used fixtures that came out of a military base. I'm sure they were hundereds of dollars when Uncle Sam bought them, I paid $10 each! They are electronic ballast, t8, dual light fixtures. In the big FAB room I painted 16 of them to match the Hammerite black truss.

Eight lights on one switch, eight on the other. So I light the two uppermost rows or the bottom rows. I had no clue how to arrange them perfectly square, till I remembered my trusty laser level dohicky! It casts a cross hair pattern! So I mounted it on a tripod, with the laser lines pointing up. Then I made a cardboard template of the light (with the centerlines marked). I then held the cardbard up and marked the corners. After the ceiling was marked, it just took some time to mark where the beams are and hang the lights with some screws. The light you see don't have the covers on them yet, but look dang good as is! The result is one word: DAYLIGHT! Eyes hurt with all the lights on and the shiny floor!!!

The other rooms were easier, since the ceilings were only 9 ft.

All the outlets and switches are done. Black paddle switches and receptacles, all stainless covers.

The cabinets all got installed. All these cabinets cost me $1,000. I found them on Craigslist. They were pulled out of an executive office during a remodel. I actually have about half left over for another room! The tabletops have not been made yet, I've got other priorities right now.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 820---fab-lights-south-w.jpg (37.4 KB, 1043 views)
File Type: jpg 824---outlet-covers-w.jpg (21.1 KB, 731 views)
File Type: jpg 830---enough-cabinets-w.jpg (36.7 KB, 762 views)
File Type: jpg 831---upper-cabinets-in-w.jpg (39.6 KB, 753 views)
File Type: jpg 832---lower-cabinets-in-w.jpg (30.6 KB, 1236 views)
File Type: jpg 842---floor-n-baseboards-do.jpg (25.3 KB, 950 views)
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Old 06-24-2006, 07:11 PM   #91
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Started in January of 2005 as an idea, finished (99%) in May 2006. I still have a lot of detail stuff to do (or have done) to finish, but I'M READY TO MOVE IN!!!

more (post dated) updates to come...

Total build time= 17 months (most nights & weekends). Cost= approx $70,000. The only "hired pro" work was the concrete slab and mud/sand/texture of walls.

I brag about how I did 75% of the work solo, but the other (very difficult) 25% was where I had the best help from friends and family. I COULD NOT have done this without them.

So here goes: Sharyn (supportive wife), Arianna (daughter), Ashley (Ari's best friend), Steve (stepdad), Mom (mom), John (best friend), pop (my dad), Curt, Daniel, Robert, Lash and my little boy, Easton!

THANK YOU ALL!!!
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Old 06-24-2006, 07:36 PM   #92
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

Looking awesome! Wow, 200 amps. Should be enough, eh?
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Old 06-24-2006, 09:35 PM   #93
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That looks great! You're lucky to have all of those people to help you! There's nothing better than working with family and friends.
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Old 06-25-2006, 11:13 AM   #94
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Now THAT is a shop! You did one hell of a great job with everything. Congrats on the move in!!
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:59 AM   #95
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I got the "storage" room finished and almost all moved in, so I figure I'd share my OCD (read: anal) method for organizing everthing. I've even included a pic of what my previous place looked like while I built my shop

The room is approx 12' x 14' x 9' ceiling. I bought shelving for pennies on the dollar for a guy who installs it in the back of retail stores. It's used, but I wouldn't know unless he told me. I'm sure these guys exist in every town for others to find the same stuff. If you're in So. Cal. drop me a PM and I'll get you his info.

Here's how I got organized (after years of trying different meathods):

--Get a P-Touch Label Maker. Love this thing, almost an addiction!

--For the little stuff, I bought dozens of Sterilite brand totes from Target. They're about 8" x 17" x 6" tall. Zip ties, dremel tools, grease & gun, etc, etc...

--For the bigger stuff I bought the "red lid" totes from Home Depot. Car parts, lubes, bike parts, etc, etc...

--Nut & bolt drawers for nuts, bolts, electrical connecotrs, fuses, etc. Mounted to the ends of the shelving by first attaching a piece of wood to the "ends" (see pic)

--left room under shelving for stuff on wheels. Shop vac, O/A welding set.

--Bought a "rolling shevling unit" for use as a fabricating cart. I've got all my welding / fab gear in one place. When I need it, I roll it out. When I'm done, I roll it back into the storage room. I'll be making mods to hold some smallish gas tanks for the Tig & Mig and one extension cord for everything (like an umbillical cord) that supplies 110v, 220v, and air.

--I've got another shelving unit for when I work on a project. I put all the parts on the cart and roll it to where I need it!

--All tool boxes labled. You know, the sawzall box, the hamerdrill box, the bicycle toolbox, etc...I know that's nuts.

Keep in mind that if some of this doesn't quite look organized "enough." That's 'cuz I'm not done yet!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg web-old-shop.jpg (67.7 KB, 1062 views)
File Type: jpg web---sm-totes.jpg (48.2 KB, 909 views)
File Type: jpg web---tool-cart.jpg (58.5 KB, 844 views)
File Type: jpg web--red-totes.jpg (60.1 KB, 897 views)
File Type: jpg web--drawers.jpg (53.5 KB, 1059 views)
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Old 06-27-2006, 03:33 PM   #96
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Not bad! I don't think you're anal. I think the key to a happy workplace is organization and cleanliness.
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Old 06-27-2006, 07:31 PM   #97
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great job!

I'm going to the Depot to get me some of those red lid totes
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Old 06-28-2006, 08:09 PM   #98
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Beautiful and organized shop, very well done.
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Old 06-29-2006, 10:54 AM   #99
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Great shop!

Where did you get this nut and bolt organizer(last picture)?
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Old 06-29-2006, 11:09 AM   #100
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Thanks for the comments guys. I forgot to thank all the Junkies/Journalists for the help and info I have found here. This is the BEST site for those of us with workshops/garages/sheds/etc...

katit, they are regular draer bins you can find at hardware stores and even Walmart. It's deceptive because it looks so big, but it's just four of them bolted to a piece of plywood.

I prefer plastic (over steel) drawers because they don't scratch whatever's inside. I store cutting tools (drill/endmills) and they are well protected.

The best I've ever found are made by Acro-Mills:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...uct%5Fid=19556
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Old 06-30-2006, 03:55 PM   #101
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

Reflex..just seeing your shop makes me wanna move back down (I moved here from Corona) and just hang out with you in the shop...hahhahahahaha....Nice job
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Old 06-30-2006, 09:46 PM   #102
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Scooter,

If the invasion continues and the politics of the PRC (Peoples Republic of California) get any worse, I might be joining YOU!

I told my wife that if our bank account hits $1,000,000 we're moving. The only problem is we're a $1,000,000 short of that goal!
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Old 07-01-2006, 01:13 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REFLEXX
Scooter,

If the invasion continues and the politics of the PRC (Peoples Republic of California) get any worse, I might be joining YOU!

I told my wife that if our bank account hits $1,000,000 we're moving. The only problem is we're a $1,000,000 short of that goal!


Come on up ..Heck it will give the natives one more of us to HATE.....
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Old 07-01-2006, 10:14 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REFLEXX
The best I've ever found are made by Acro-Mills:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...uct%5Fid=19556

Since you have them - you may help me with those.
On this chart
http://www.usplastic.com/pdfdatafile...55330chart.pdf

They show dimensions, where 26, 44 and 64 have same overall dimensions. Looking at Drawer details it just doesn't add up..

I wanted to get a mix of different boxes, but they all need to be same height as I have perfect strip below cabinets.

I wanted to put 4 of them side by side to make 80x16 strip. But since dimensions misleading I can't figure out what I can get...
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Old 07-01-2006, 10:20 PM   #105
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

Katit,

The pics are a different size, but the drawers are identical in outside dimensions!

Does that make sense?
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File Type: gif 10744-black-44-empty.gif (28.7 KB, 101 views)
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Old 07-01-2006, 10:28 PM   #106
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

Thanks, I figured it all out.

I also found some info:
http://www.lkgoodwin.com/more_info/s...cabinets.shtml

It seems that 44, 64 and 24 drawer cabinets are the same size.
Now, which drawers you use most efficient?

In my case - it will be nothing special. Some around a house hardware and small stuff that I always wanted organised. I just wonder if I should go with all 64's or have like 2 44's and 2 64's..
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Old 07-02-2006, 03:00 AM   #107
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mix them up!

1x64
2x44
1x24

IMHO
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Old 08-24-2006, 11:39 PM   #108
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UPDATE TIME!!!

I've been neglecting my updates, so I'm making a concerted effort to catch up!

But I'm glad to say that (short of a few decorations and air lines) the inside is completed!!!

This was a few months back, and the memories are great because moving the machines in was an adventure in itself! I had the mover COME OVER and see what was involved in getting the machines into place. We agreed on the set price and planned the date. I thought his price was kinda low, it was actually less than half of ANYONE else. I was't going to complain, these guys are a reputable company.

I will not bore anyone with pic of the machines being loaded, or me moving any other stuff in. But here is the delivery and placement of the big stuff! They started at 8:00am , and were non finished untill 9:30pm. These poor guys worked thier asses off! Not to mention that they got stuck on my (inclined & dirt) road TWICE! That added about 3 hours to thier adventure.

As always, I'll share what I learned to perhaps spare others time, effort and money.

#1 get quotes from movers and have them come out to give you a firm price. I paid $2000, should have been $4,000+ after they were done.

#2 If you've got dirt, get them to bring steel plates. Forklifts and dirt don't mix. Those steel plates helped them get thier own trucks unstuck (TWICE).

#3 They used custom "dollies" for the machines. They are also called roller skates. Make sure they have plastic wheels or kiss your nice epoxy floor goodby! All the marks they left just wiped right off, even after the 8,000 lb machine!

#4 Measure the location of everything and have it marked with tape. Last minute guessing sucks.

#5 make your openings big enough to fit your biggest piece (machine or RV or truck). I did and had about 6" per side to spare!

I'll have more pics later. For those that don't know what these are. It's a lathe, a knee (bridgeport) mill and the big white box is a CNC milling machine.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg aaa-delivery.jpg (74.2 KB, 921 views)
File Type: jpg aaa-plates.jpg (70.3 KB, 666 views)
File Type: jpg aaa-stuck.jpg (76.5 KB, 627 views)
File Type: jpg aaa-lathe.jpg (67.4 KB, 674 views)
File Type: jpg aaa--parked-little.jpg (36.2 KB, 1326 views)
File Type: jpg aaa-cnc-in-door.jpg (48.9 KB, 925 views)
File Type: jpg aaa-cnc-push.jpg (48.8 KB, 1021 views)
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Old 08-24-2006, 11:51 PM   #109
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Very nice! When can I move in?
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Old 08-24-2006, 11:58 PM   #110
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Here are pics of the machine in place and the "CNC" room finished.

The knee mill is a variable frequency drive 5hp machine, with many little "hot rod" mods. Because I have never owned anything that I couldn't improve. It's got mini pool balls on all the handles/levers, diamondplate covers on all openings, custom way covers, two worklights, removed all logos, custom table covers, power feed, .0002" 3 axis DRO's and stickers (gotta have the stickers!)

The CNC is a 1995 Cincinatti Arrow 500, a sweet machine that I bought for "pennies on the dollar" 20" x 20" x 20" travels, 15hp motor and accurate as hell. I have to have it on a phase converter, so I bought a American Rotary 30hp unit. The only problem is when I turn it on, the lights dim in my neighborhood. The electric company is coming to install a MUCH larger transformer on our pole (37KVA vs. the 15 that is there) and to replace the wires coming to our house. Edison is doing this for FREE. God bless them!

It's soooo nice to have all my tools and equipment EXACTLY where I want it. I used to waste hours of time just looking for the simplest things. Now I'm like a high speed surgeon with all the implements at the ready.

So at this point the CNC room is 90% done....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg aaa-mill.jpg (73.8 KB, 905 views)
File Type: jpg aaa-cnc.jpg (54.3 KB, 900 views)
File Type: jpg aaa-cabinets.jpg (42.4 KB, 712 views)
File Type: jpg aaa-tools.jpg (59.1 KB, 1058 views)
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Old 08-25-2006, 05:07 AM   #111
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

Okay, now that you have everything in place - time to make me a set of custom wheels on that milling machine.

Looks awesome.
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:00 AM   #112
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Bmwpower, I could, but they would cost a mint. The guys that make rims, make 1,000 at a time. Kind of making a kit car, vs. buying a car.
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:41 AM   #113
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OK, another update.

The big CNC machine is now in place and I have a 9ft x 9ft opening between the CNC room and the FAB room. I want to keep the dust and fumes out of the CNC room, and to keep noise separated. I also have each room on it's own A/C system, so I don't want to cool the entire place all the time.

So I had to seal the opening. But I didn't want to make a permanent "false wall" so I decided on a BIG HONKIN DOOR!

A roll up would be ugly, an accordion door would not open enough and to buy a custom door this size would be way too expensive. So I made one...

MATERIALS:

1. steel studs (26ga) 7pcs
2. steel studs 2pc for top and bottom (22 ga)
2. small sheetmetal screws 6 x 3/4"
3. mod pan head screws
3. 1/8" thick LAUAN(SP?) thin plywood panels
4. spackle/patch paste
5. 3 large (normal) door hinges.
6. 3 castor wheels (the non rotating type)
7. plumbers tape (metal perforated tape)
8. small gate latch
9. foam weatherstriping
10. paint & matching baseboard trim
11. one wood 2x4
12. "gold" drywall/deck screws


CONSTRUCTION:

1. On the floor, I made the frame out of the steel studs and checked for squareness. screwed it together with the mod pan head screws. Then I added the plumbers tape to keep the assembly square while I put it in place. The steel studs are ver flimsy at this point (on the floor)

2. I then put the wood 2x4 inside the steel stud where the hinges will attach. This is just to make sure the hinges don't pull out of the steel studs and to be more ridgid.

3. Next, I measured out and screwed on the hinges using the gold screws. I also used some left over steel stud material to make a place for the support wheels to mount. There is one wheel at the bottom of the door, opposite of the hinges and one in the middle/bottom of the door. I cut a small opening in the bottom of the bottom stud for the wheel to stick out about 1/2"

4. With some help, I positioned the door in the opeining and screwed on the hinges. So now I had a (very flimsy) frame in place that I could open and close. I also found out that my "door" is much more square than my "opening" I had to shim the hinges a bit to make everything open and fit nicely.

5. I then attached all the paneling using the small sheetmetal screws. I chose the thin paneling because of its light weight. The screws did a nice job of countersinking themselves, so the panels stayed smooth. I also stuffed insulation between the panels for noise and temp control. The paneling made the door VERY ridgid, it now felt like a real door!

6. I then did a few coats of spackle and sanding to smooth things out. Followed up by foam weatherstrip along the top and sides to make up for any gaps.

7. The I painted both sides with 3 coats of the same stuff I used on the walls "Behr pure premium #2-3050 - ultra white" which is really good stuff. I needed three coats to hide the grain of the plywood.

8. I added the baseboard trim/moulding. it matches the rest of the shop and acts like a seal for the bottom of the door.

Now all that's left is the gray paint and black strip to match the walls!

It works like a charm. Now that I'm done with this really nice door, I hope I don't have to use it for at least 5 to 10 years!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg aaa-frame.jpg (46.9 KB, 670 views)
File Type: jpg aaa-close-up.jpg (45.1 KB, 507 views)
File Type: jpg aaa-open.jpg (61.6 KB, 726 views)
File Type: jpg aaa-finished.jpg (31.7 KB, 695 views)
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:21 PM   #114
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

So I want to know what the city, county, neighbors think about you running a machine shop out of your garage:-)

Glad to hear the convertor worked out ok I don't remember sugesting a 30hp though!

William.....
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Old 08-25-2006, 06:02 PM   #115
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William,

The VERY insulated walls keep everyone happy. The CNC at full tilt cannot be heard outside.

Beside, most of my neighbors love the fact that they have a neighbor that can fix just about anything and county doesn't care about what "hobbies" I have. I'm zone agricultural, so I need tools to fix my "agricultural machinery"
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Old 08-27-2006, 01:25 AM   #116
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

Here the most important piece of my garage puzzle, and I finally got to "install" it. I call it icing on the cake.

A little background:
My grandfather (like me) was born in the Ukraine. Just imagine the village in "Fiddler On The Roof." He spent most of his life in the Soviet Union and for over 40 years he collected lapel pins. You know, the kind you put on your jacket or uniform. In Russia it was a big deal, much like coin or stamp collecting was here.

Well, he's got over a thousand pins on all subjects: from the space programs, to monuments, olympics, motorcycles, legends, cities, etc...They have been in a box since 1977. That's when we immigrated (legally!) to the USA. Nobody has even looked at them, but I've always know that they are there. I asked if I could have them, and he happily handed them over. They are not worth very much (just check e-bay). But to me, they are the closest thing to a family treasure.

My "deda" is in ill health and I wanted to give him some "medicine." I decided to do something special with the pins. I wanted to hang a huge Soviet flag and attach all the pins, but the weight would be too much and I didn't want a big communist banner on my wall. The biggest flag in my shop will be the Stars and Stripes!

So I did the next best thing. I bought a 8 x 5 foot red carpet from the www.redcarpetstore.com (of all places!) and had it trimmed with yellow/gold.

I then put grommets along the top and bottom edge at every 12 inches and anchored it to the wall. My daughters then spent a few weeks, pinning them all up. We managed to attach about 80% of them.

You should have seen my grandfather when he first walked in! He was BEAMING with happiness and bragged to all his friends for days!!!

Mission accomplished!
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File Type: jpg pins-close.jpg (76.8 KB, 793 views)
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Old 08-27-2006, 02:01 AM   #117
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Heartwarming piece of family history...thanks for sharing. :-)
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Old 08-27-2006, 07:11 PM   #118
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REFLEXX

As you were only 7 or 8 when you crossed the big pond, I am going to assume what Russian you learned as a kid is long gone -- unless deda uses the mother tongue at home and reinforces your memory.

What I am getting at is while YOU may think that none of the pins have meaning, maybe deda has an attachment to them. Some may be from a special event or invoke memories of a particular time or set of friends. Since he's gettin' on in age, NOW is the time to ask him to comment about 3 to 5 pins each visit. Write down what he says.

When my grandparents died, I was part of the clean up crew. I can't count the number of O-L-D photos we came across that were not dated, no names written on the back much less dates and local of the photo. What a loss of family history; all those photos ended up in the trash. They meant something to someone or they wouldn't have been saved all those years. Don't let the same thing happen to you.

And some of those pins MAY be worth something. A Sergeant Major (SGM) I knew when I was stationed in Skopje, Macedonia took 50 of his troops to Sophia Bulgaria for a weekend break from the mission. As soon as the bus stopped, the young soldiers headed for the bars and girls – well DUH. He noticed a small flea market of sorts set up in the town square. He wandered around and spotted an old guy with what amounted to a card table set up in front of him. He had a bunch of old WWII war memorabilia laid out. Among the stuff, the SGM spotted six pins of particular note. They were SS pins: 2 were gold, 3 silver and a bronze. They were issued in by Hitler’s team in recognition of good deeds. When asked for a price the old said $10 for the gold, $7 and 5 for the others. The SGM said “How about $100 for the entire display.” He later was able to sell a complete set (gold/silver/bronze) for $2,000. Ya never know.

Craig

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Old 08-27-2006, 08:11 PM   #119
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I can also recommend trying to gain as much history as possible while those that know it are still living.

My grandfather was born in the Ukraine in 1900. His grandfather had come from Germany under uncertain circumstances sometime before.

My grandfather arrived at Ellis Island in December of 1909, along with his mother and siblings. His father (my GGF) had arrived a year or two earlier, but I cannot find any documents to substantiate that.

At any rate, my GGF returned to Russia shortly before the revolution and was not seen here again. My grandfather spent many years looking for him, and supposedly found out what had become of his father. My grandfather died in 1968, but my grandmother supposedly knew the whole story.

She never wanted to talk about it, but my uncle was able to get her to comment on some old photos while videotaping the process (an excellent idea). This shed some light on many of the questions we have, but there are still many more questions. She passed away about 18 months ago, and took the rest of the history with her.

The communists destroyed mountains of documents, and with them, many personal histories.

As far as the pin collection goes, I'd bet many of them have a special meaning, even if it is only the recollection of how, when and where it was acquired. This information is priceless.

Will
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Old 08-27-2006, 09:44 PM   #120
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Gents,

I have my grandparents history written down and have many photos labled. I took them on vacation to Florida a few years ago and we sat every night to write down what they went through. I guarantee tears after reading it! You cannot imagine the HELL they went through and they both are the kindest and sweetest people you will ever meet. I am who I am because of them. My grandmother lost ALL her family to the Nazis, then became a decorated soldier / nurse. My Deda, saved countless lives because he was in charge of a bread-rationing program and cheated the system to feed as many families as he could. If he was caught by the communists doing this, you can imagine what would happen to a Jew.

I discussed the pins at length with my deda, they were a regular collection. Not a "as I traveled" type collection, but he loves seeing it displayed. Regardless of thier worth, they will never be for sale! To me they are priceless.

On the other hand, my Baba (grandmother) has a chest full of ribbons and medals. THOSE have a history I will write down soon!

Yes, I was only seven when we came to the USA and I am still 95% fluent. Usually a child that young looses thier native language, but I kept mine for some reason. Speaking to parents and grandparents helped.

Four years ago I found the real reason my Russian stayed with me. We (wife and I) went to Kazakhstan (former Russian republic) to adopt our two kids!

I'm not a very religious guy, but God bless my grandparents, parents and the USA! We rarely pause and think about just how good we have it.

OK, back to garage stuff....
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Old 08-29-2006, 08:55 AM   #121
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Very cool.

Is this going to be the place of your work, or just free time?

Whats the day job if not?

The shop area of our project is looking to about about 1000-1200sqrft (of the totl 4850sqrft) but unfortunately i'm not planning any CNC equipment, just a small mill and lathe to handle some small racecar parts.

Are you planning to use the CNC for business or pure personal use?

Are they pretty lax with having all this stuff in a residential zone?
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Old 08-29-2006, 02:02 PM   #122
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eng,

The answer is yes.

I'm a design consultant / prototype machininst. So this shop is now my place of work and play. I'm working on my own patents, I have my own products, and I do work for others (machining / consulting / 3D design / light fab).

Here's my "work" website: www.RXDi.com <---it will be back up in a day or two. I'm doing some security mods.

The machines are my tools (like any other), I use the appropriate one when necessary. So the CNC doesn't run every day, just when a part needs the type of geometry I cannot generate on a knee mill or the quantity is over 10 pieces.

I am zoned agricultural, so I'm allowed to have a certain amount of equpiment to keep the "farm machinery" working. My neighbors all know and they don't mind. Since I'm here 24/7, I double as the neighborhood watch guy. I also overbuilt this building to where it is SILENT outside, no matter what kind of noise I generate inside. As you can see, it's more of a "R&D lab" than a "machine shop."

From 8am-5pm it's work, from 9pm-1am it's play. Usually ends up a mix of both.
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Old 08-29-2006, 04:32 PM   #123
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Cool, I had a feeling it was your place of work, I only know a couple guys with CNC equipment in thier garages, and both have 8 figure car collections at the same location Needless to sya the cnc equipment barely gets used, it was merely purchased as a "just in case" thing, damn filthy rich bastards.

I mostly just need a lathe and mill to do suspension/chassis components. The shop area will be mixed with the machine area, but it'll be about 1/4 of the entire garage taking up about 1200sqrft or so. The other 3600sqrft will be lounge/showroom/washport/etc.

Definitely wish i could have a full cnc shop though, definitely would come in handy.

Have fun in the garage, definitely will be convenient and can equipment/garage can pay for itself pretty quick.
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Old 08-29-2006, 06:48 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enginerd
damn filthy rich bastards.
Heh.

I have a wife, 3 kids, and a mortgage, make $30K/year, and don't even own a garage.

damn middle class bastards.




Will
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Old 08-29-2006, 09:32 PM   #125
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Will,

I have a wife, 2 kids, 3 dogs, 2 cats, make damn near zero, and if it wasn't for home equity loans, I wouldn't have a garage/shop.

damn everyone with a steady paycheck!


The last two years, I've put every penny back into the business to buy tools , equipment and pay biz bills. The shop was built 100% with loan money.

Now I'm at zero and looking forward to getting out of debt!
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Old 08-29-2006, 09:43 PM   #126
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Quote:
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Will,
damn everyone with a steady paycheck!


The last two years, I've put every penny back into the business to buy tools , equipment and pay biz bills. The shop was built 100% with loan money.

Now I'm at zero and looking forward to getting out of debt!
Much respect for that! I tried the self-employed thing for a few years...and found that the government likes to punish those who try to do for themselves.

I do have a steady paycheck and health insurance, I guess that is worth something. I could make more if I moved back to SoCal, but with the higher cost of living, it would be a wash.

I would still like a garage, but am trying to avoid the refinance thing. I might do it if I can find the right deal.

Also trying to figure out how I can retire in 20 years...
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Old 08-29-2006, 10:04 PM   #127
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OK Reflex check this out...that poster on the back of your work bench??? the one with the buggy in the upper right hand corner.....That is Jeff Quinns ( the owner of Mckenzie's Performance) Jeff and I go back 20 years or so and he is still a good friend of mine...we also raced together "back in the day" and even won a championship together back in 1994..hhmmmm small world...just thought I would share some useless info with you all......
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Old 08-29-2006, 11:43 PM   #128
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Quote:
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Four years ago I found the real reason my Russian stayed with me. We (wife and I) went to Kazakhstan (former Russian republic) to adopt our two kids!
That is very cool Reflexx.
Even though my co-workers don't have your connection, I thought it was very cool that two couples where I work have adopted 3 children from Chita in the past few years. For you it seems to be a natural. Either way these kids are great and you can't help but feel good about them being here with great families.

I love your garage. The fact the the wife and kids helped so much has to make it even more special to you.
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Old 08-30-2006, 01:32 AM   #129
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Scooter,
The girl in the poster could pass for the twin of a girl I dated long ago. It was the only girlie poster I would not give up (and I gave up many!) It's just a beautiful sight to look at when I work in the mill. If you could get me her name, I'd owe you big!

As for Mckenzies, I've spent a few pennies there. Usually for building off-road cars or sandrails. Good stuff, no cheap junk there. I'm sure that I'll be back when I start my off-road Manx build in a few years.

Jloveridge,
I've got the kids most parents dream of. Blessed every day. And if anyone wants kids, just let me know. I've got an orphanage-full that I can show you!
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:39 AM   #130
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Glad to here that you have donated to Jeff's cause to keep him in the lifestyle he has become accustomed to

I worked for him from 98-99 just before I moved up here....


Oh and I'll ask about the models name...hahahaahah
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Old 08-30-2006, 03:05 PM   #131
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Quote:
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eng,

The answer is yes.

I am zoned agricultural, so I'm allowed to have a certain amount of equpiment to keep the "farm machinery" working. My neighbors all know and they don't mind.
Dream on, That will NOT work...
Heck I don't think I could even pull that one off here, and I have enough land to actually be doing some agriculture and I have farm equipment:-) When some one complains ( and notice I said when _not_ IF) ( your neighbors might all love you today, but tomorow is another day and neighbors come and go:-)

I suggest you get down to the county office, and apply for a home business exemption for your home business. If they grant you one, your ass is covered in the future. Then when your neighborhood gets re-zoned and or annexed into the city your grandfathered in. Also it's much easier to get one BEFORE the complaints come in than after!

Good luck!

William....
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Old 09-07-2006, 11:32 AM   #132
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William,

I forgot to mention that it's been done. If it was city, I'd be screwed. But county was much more accommodating.

I already have one neighbor that bitches about my kids riding thier quad on MY property! ONE out of four neighbors is the local witch. Just my luck.
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Old 09-12-2006, 04:30 PM   #133
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i think when i get my own house... i wont have a house, but just one big garage that i live in. that thing is beatiful... how much did all those machines cost you?
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Old 09-13-2006, 07:53 PM   #134
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Quote:
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When some one complains ( and notice I said when _not_ IF) ( your neighbors might all love you today, but tomorow is another day and neighbors come and go:-)
Neighbors are an unknown. Consider them all adversaries until proven otherwise.

Virtually every one of my neighbors within a one-mile radius have dogs, and let them run loose. Everywhere. All the time.

My dogs are fenced, and never leave my property.

But, one of those neighbors felt it necessary to call Animal Control and complain about my (formerly) numerous dogs (that don't bark and are never off my property).

Hypocrisy at it's finest. That should be Webster's definition of "neighbor".
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Old 11-22-2006, 10:14 PM   #135
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Quote:
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Meanwhile I finished up the electrical panel. The main feeder line is not in yet and the fat wires you see that are not hooked up are for the CNC mill.
Reference post #49 -- Ah, the old upside down electrical panel installation. Actually, nothing wrong with that. Just browsing tonite and finally saw your build thread, real nice.

Never thought much of MT buildings, but you did a nice finish job.

Charles
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Old 11-22-2006, 10:35 PM   #136
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Reference post #49 -- Ah, the old upside down electrical panel installation.
It must be because I'm looking at it from the other way up but I canít figure why it is upside down. If it is upside down there will be a reason Iím sure.

That is one of the tidiest boards I have ever seen.
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Old 11-22-2006, 10:51 PM   #137
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Gents,

Here's the highly technical explanation:

The main wires come in from the bottom! That and the panel mfg said it makes no difference. My wires go underground from the main panel to the sub. I saw no benefit to coming out of the ground, going to the top of the box (extra 4-5 feet of materials) and then back in. There's details of this somewhere in the thread.

BTW, thanks for reviving the thread. I'll be posting more stuff I've done when I have a chance to breath (a bit too much work right now).

This thread is up to 38,000+ views, any more and I'll consider running for some political office! There are some nicer shops here on GJ, but I think it's a perpetual motion thread. People see a lot of views, they assume it's gotta be good, they take a look, the numbers go up, and the vicious cycle repeats.
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Old 11-22-2006, 11:07 PM   #138
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Quote:
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It must be because I'm looking at it from the other way up but I canít figure why it is upside down. If it is upside down there will be a reason Iím sure.

That is one of the tidiest boards I have ever seen.
In the pic the main feed cables are not installed yet, but the lugs for connecting them are on the bottom, barely visible at the bottom of the two buss bars. Normally they would be at the top. However, in this case, the most room in the panel is at the main lug end and since all of the wires come in from the bottom in this installation, having the most room on the bottom is an advantage.

There is no main breaker in this installation, I presume it is outside, as this is a sub panel fed off a 400 amp meter socket on the house (dual disconnects on the house I suppose, one house, one garage?).

These panels are actually designed to be installed either way, most of the lettering on the label inside the door on my Siemens panelboard is printed both ways.

The electrical code does address neatness, and I had one electrical inspector simply quit looking at a house rewire I did on my parents house after he saw the breaker panelboard. It was so neat he was astounded. I tried to show hime the basement subpanel and some other stuff, he said it was a waste of his time to look. He called his office right away and told them to get the power company out to reconnect the wires at the mast.

I think that the fact that I had consulted frequently with the "old guy, a retired electrical contractor working at the Home Depot elect. dept" helped out too. Turned out the "old guy" was the inspectors father.

Charles
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Old 11-22-2006, 11:55 PM   #139
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

My panel is oriented the same way - for the same reason - the feed wires come in from underground.

And X2 on tidy counting with the inspectors. The comment I got was "This is the way things should be done..."
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Old 01-22-2007, 05:04 AM   #140
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best garage work I have ever seen, PERIOD.
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Old 03-30-2007, 12:40 PM   #141
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

I had read all the way through this, thinking it must be nice to have all this. And then I read your family history posts and I have to admit to a tear in my eye. Good for you and your family. I was born and raised here, served 20 years in the Navy, and RARELY run across people who appreciate their country as you do.

Oh yeah, I appreciate the work you put into your shop, and hope it is everything you need.
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Old 03-30-2007, 04:18 PM   #142
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Wow, thanks for posting your progress and sharing your family history. Awesome thread.
Reflexx for president!!!!!!
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Old 03-30-2007, 07:54 PM   #143
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Thanks guys. You have really made my day.

You've also encouraged me to post up some stuff I've done since "finished" the build.
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Old 04-04-2007, 05:14 PM   #144
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Hey man, its been a while now, I think you need to start thinking about starting another shop-build for us to look at! Haha!

Kudos to you and your family - you definately have something special there. In my line of work I see far too many familys take their children for granted due to their own selfish vices. Its nice to see someone "exploit" their kids by bringing them together for a family project and putting them to work.
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Old 08-08-2007, 07:19 AM   #145
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Real nice shop, I can't wait to see more. I am in the process of building a 36 X 30 Miracle Truss garage/workshop. I only purchased the trusses because I am going to put a conventional roof and cedar siding to match the house (that was the wife's only requirement). Your pictures are great and help me envission the poject as it goes together. Could I be so brazen as to ask you for more photos? I am doing this myself with the exception of the slab and need all the help I can get. Any suggestions you can offer would be very helpful. I have lot's of questions so let me know when I start to become a pain in the @ss.

Thanks, Tom

Thunder Road Garage
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Old 09-20-2007, 12:37 PM   #146
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Great Job on the shop man. We need new pictures!!!!!
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Old 10-09-2007, 02:13 AM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom.cronin View Post


Real nice shop, I can't wait to see more. I am in the process of building a 36 X 30 Miracle Truss garage/workshop. I only purchased the trusses because I am going to put a conventional roof and cedar siding to match the house (that was the wife's only requirement). Your pictures are great and help me envission the poject as it goes together. Could I be so brazen as to ask you for more photos? I am doing this myself with the exception of the slab and need all the help I can get. Any suggestions you can offer would be very helpful. I have lot's of questions so let me know when I start to become a pain in the @ss.

Thanks, Tom

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This guy's garage is insane! I love it!

If I were doing it the only other things I would ad would be a bathroom, a stereo built into the whole place, and hard air lines.
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Old 10-09-2007, 04:08 PM   #148
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I know this is a silly question and way late in the thread, but I just found the thread.
What is the house wrap under the metal roof used for?
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Old 10-09-2007, 05:01 PM   #149
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I agree! We need more eye candy. Please.

Scott
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Old 10-10-2007, 09:35 AM   #150
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definatly a nice workshop/garage/possible house, lol

brody
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Old 10-10-2007, 02:19 PM   #151
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Wow, this is by far, one of, if not the best garages I have ever laid eyes on. Very detailed and documented! Outstanding job Reflexx.
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Old 10-12-2007, 04:38 PM   #152
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Hello All!

First of all, thanks to everyone for the comments. This was truly a labor of love.

It's been a while since I posted up any info, and it's long overdue. Life has been very busy (who's hasn't been?).

I will take some pics this weekend and post up my "1+ year later review." There are things I still haven't finished, things I want to add and some things that were not necessary.

Someone asked what the plastic was under the roof's sheetmetal. It's Tyvek style house wrap, just an additional vapor barrier. If the roof condenses on the inside, the water droplets will not harm the drywall or insulation. In theory.


PS: If anyone has SPECIFIC questions about the build, post them here. That way everyone can see the answers.
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Old 10-15-2007, 06:05 PM   #153
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UPDATE!!!

Ok everyone, here are some pics of the shop 'in use." I am a bit of an organizational freak. So everything looking clean and put away is normal. I just cannot work in a mess, too distracting.

Some things I've learned over the past year:

Epoxy coat is tough stuff, but it does get beat-up. That's OK because it's a shop, not a museum. I just make sure to wipe up any gas, coolant or other harsh chemical spills. So far, some discoloring after gas sits on it for a week, but nothing has gone through. ORDER EXTRA FLAKES! When I drag stuff across the floor, the flakes act like tiny "skid plates"

Insulation is fantastic! Outdoor tems hit 110+ a few times this summer. With the window A/C units, I maintained 80-85 degrees inside!!! Plus I can work at midnight with grinders and not worry about upsetting the neighbors.

The drop down power cord (retractable reel) is used 90% of the time. most of the 110v wall outlets are still virgins.

I wish the storage room was bigger and the "office" was smaller. The office is still an empty room while the stroage room is at capacity.

My motorcycle lift/table is AWESOME as a workbench. Tough, height adjustable, big surface area and MOBILE! I rarely use the tabletops on the cabinets.

Still no copper lines (too expensive), so I have hoses on the floor when necessary.

Air compressor is inside the big room and goes off once in a while. I muffled the intakes and it's very tolerable. Eventually it will be in an outside shed.

EVERYTHING POSSIBLE is on wheels, use it and tuck it away. My bender, welding cart, jacks, moto-lift table, toolbox rollaway, etc...

I bought some 5 shelf storage carts and whatever project i work on, all the parts go on the cart. When I'm done for the day, the cart goes in the storage room and the shop is neat.

I HATE DUST!!! I know, very sissy-like. But we live in the desert and it gets on everything. Whenever I use the air gun, I create huge clouds of crap. I bought a (woodshop style) air filtration system, but it's not that effective.

Ventilation fan is great. I can weld indoors by just cracking open some windows or the garage door and turn on the fan. It sucks all the fumes out quick!!!

ONE PROJECT AT A TIME! That's a new rule since I finished this shop. having a bunch of projects/parts/plans laying around is sooo distracting. Now everything is under tarps or out of sight. I seem to work MUCH faster when I can concentrate on ONE thing at a time.

MAKE TO DO LISTS! As I'm working on my projects, I make notes on what else to do, or what's next, or what to buy/get. I use a Palm Pilot.

I still have not put in a sink and I might never do it! I found that "GOOP" moist hand towels (white jug with blue letters) work incredibly well to clean up my hands after some serious dirty-work. The work so well that I don't even need to do a second wash with regular soap, smells nice too.

Desert buggy (sandrail) is 99% finished. Runs awesome, just some electrical work to clean up. We'll be spending a lot of time this winter in the dunes and the desert.

The next project is on the moto-lift. Stay tuned. Then I start on my Long wheelbase Samurai and my daughter's 1972 Samurai.

AND FINALLY!!!! I had a visitor from a "car magazine" last weekend. He took pics and asked questions. Looks like I might be featured in an upcoming issue!!! : )

I'll add more as I come up with stuff.
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Old 10-16-2007, 01:24 AM   #154
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Well! It's about time! Geesh.....some people....




Keep the pics coming, and let us know when you are 'published' so that when you continue to ignore us, we will know why......



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Old 11-18-2007, 04:40 AM   #155
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

hello,
I thought you might want to know than when an American flag is displayed either horizontally or vertically against a wall, the union should be uppermost and to the flag's own right, that is, to the observer's left. When displayed in a window, the flag should be displayed in the same way, with the union or blue field to the left of the observer in the street. (your flag is backwards).

Taylor

P.S i like your shop.
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Old 11-19-2007, 02:17 AM   #156
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Taylor,

you are absolutely right! I'll have to fix Ole' Glory asap!

Gene S.
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Old 11-24-2007, 10:36 PM   #157
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New here and surfing around looking for cabinet ideas, I ran into your original thread posted about your cabinets, before you started this thread.

I see you kept them the original color, LOL.
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Old 01-01-2008, 09:23 PM   #158
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Awesome shop!
Got any close-ups of that welding cart? What I saw in CC looked like a pretty slick setup, what with the bench grinder, hooks and all. Does the cart have outlets on it or do you use extension cords for each tool?
J
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:12 AM   #159
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

I hate to be the new guy that brings an old thread back to life, but I just wanted to say, Thanks...

I have been doing research on Miracle Truss garages since I will be doing one next spring, and this is the best looking shop/garage out there for the price you put into it. I come from a Ukranian background as well, born and raised in the US and served in the US Army, and think the family heritage was a great addition to the workspace. My dad had a lot of little collections, and now I have an idea where to put them after I built my garage.

Thank you for posting the pics and details of your build...
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Last edited by 1SlowFormula; 09-04-2008 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:08 PM   #160
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

I'll jump on the bandwagon too, REFLEXX. Great thread. Im trying to decide on a steel building in the next couple of months. Miracle Truss is tempting, and your build makes it even more tempting.
I'm not Ukranian though....
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:42 PM   #161
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

[QUOTE=REFLEXX;59297]UPDATE TIME!!!

I've been neglecting my updates, so I'm making a concerted effort to catch up!

But I'm glad to say that (short of a few decorations and air lines) the inside is completed!!!

This was a few months back, and the memories are great because moving the machines in was an adventure in itself! I had the mover COME OVER and see what was involved in getting the machines into place. We agreed on the set price and planned the date. I thought his price was kinda low, it was actually less than half of ANYONE else. I was't going to complain, these guys are a reputable company.

SNIP
#1 get quotes from movers and have them come out to give you a firm price. I paid $2000, should have been $4,000+ after they were done.

#2 If you've got dirt, get them to bring steel plates. Forklifts and dirt don't mix. Those steel plates helped them get thier own trucks unstuck (TWICE).

#3 They used custom "dollies" for the machines. They are also called roller skates. Make sure they have plastic wheels or kiss your nice epoxy floor goodby! All the marks they left just wiped right off, even after the 8,000 lb machine!

SNIP


Great Build, Thanks for sharing!
The Dunkel Bros outfit is an outstanding group of guys... their boys work hard for their money. A few years ago I had to move some airplanes out of a museum in downtown LA... Dunkel did the rigging for us and I couldn't have been happier with them. If in LA and you need 10,000lbs of stuff put into a 10lbs bag... give them a call, they can do it!

Rob
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Old 07-28-2009, 04:08 AM   #162
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

Looks Really Great!!!! Keep us posted!!!
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Old 06-13-2011, 12:12 PM   #163
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

I know this is an older thread but I just wanted to say how much I enjoyed seeing your garage go up & the write-ups & tips on building it. One (of many) question.. what motorcycle lift is it that you're using and how much was it? Thanks
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Old 09-22-2011, 01:03 AM   #164
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1zebraup View Post
I know this is an older thread but I just wanted to say how much I enjoyed seeing your garage go up & the write-ups & tips on building it. One (of many) question.. what motorcycle lift is it that you're using and how much was it? Thanks
It's a Direct Lift: http://www.directlift.com/MotorcycleATV-Lifts-C15.aspx
Works great and trouble-free after years of use.


QUICK UPDATE: The shop is actually holding up very well. No issues at all.

I've had hundreds of people tell me that they wish they could afford a dream shop of their own, the tools and the skill to use it. Well, I have big plans for a community workshop and starting small for now. Check it out and let me know what you think:
http://vocademy.com/

While putting together the plans for the 15,000 sq foot Vocademy, I've been using my shop as a school to teach college kids and others "SHOP 101" skills. Just had my first "Graduating Class" Here's a pic of (half) the class with their little machining projects. If you like what I'm planning, please spread the word!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Vocad 1 class.jpg (61.7 KB, 108 views)
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My Garage Mahal: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=1253
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:27 AM   #165
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

REFLEXX - I think the Vocademy is a great idea.

I was fortunate enough to grow up in a town where the public high school had a fabulous metal, wood, and welding shop. We even got to make our own injection molded plastic parts and sand cast custom aluminum parts in the foundry. I took every shop class I could, which probably explains my lack of education in other areas . I don't think this is the norm for most communities, so offering another source for this education is great. Good on you for helping the young folks.

Shop equipment is expensive, and membership to a place like the Vocademy will let people work with machinery they may not have had an opportunity to otherwise. That's pretty cool too and I bet a lot of people will take advantage of that.

Good luck with your new venture.

(And its great to still see one of the GJ "oldtimers" still at it)
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:35 AM   #166
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

Thanks Shopnut.

When I joined this place it was called Garage Junkies! More fitting considering how addicted guys get to their shops!
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:02 AM   #167
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Default Re: The Garage Mahal!

Just Wow you got some skills
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:08 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REFLEXX View Post
Thanks Shopnut.

When I joined this place it was called Garage Junkies! More fitting considering how addicted guys get to their shops!
I remember everyone introducing themselves - "Hello, I'm John Doe, and I'm a Garage Junkie"
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