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Old 10-08-2012, 05:49 AM   #1
mrhino
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Default Mr heater venting question

Hi guys new to the forum and did a little search the last couple days and really cant find a answer to my particular question. I have a attached garage and where i want to hang the heater and put the vent thru the garage ceiling and up into the attic. roughly 7-8 feet away is a chimney from our decorative gas fireplace. the chimney is 14" dia. my question is can i tap into the chimney to vent the exhaust for my mr heater. any help would be appreciated
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:51 AM   #2
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

Depends on local codes, but in va you can do it.
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:52 AM   #3
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

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Originally Posted by mrhino View Post
Hi guys new to the forum and did a little search the last couple days and really cant find a answer to my particular question. I have a attached garage and where i want to hang the heater and put the vent thru the garage ceiling and up into the attic. roughly 7-8 feet away is a chimney from our decorative gas fireplace. the chimney is 14" dia. my question is can i tap into the chimney to vent the exhaust for my mr heater. any help would be appreciated
I'm going to say no. Assuming you want to be code compliant.
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:59 AM   #4
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

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I'm going to say no. Assuming you want to be code compliant.
My answer also is assuming it has fan assisted draft. (A draft inducer). Theres a lot of variables. Personally I would run a new chimney for it.
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:12 AM   #5
philjafo
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

Always best to err on the side of safety, and do 1 flue per appliance. Besides at 14" dia. your gas fireplace chimney likely is double wall with the intake on the outer chamber with the exhaust up through the center.
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Old 10-09-2012, 05:27 AM   #6
mrhino
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

I guess im not going to tap into the existing chimney. Im going to run it right next to it. I have the 45k unit Im confused with the directions. what size pipe should i be using? the instructions say 3" but the pipe kit they want to sell you is in 4" I realize it is made for both the 45k and the 75K. can I run the 3" and should it be B vent or should it just be B vent while its in the attic.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:05 PM   #7
nwav8tor
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

I sure they make both 3" and 4" vent kits for Mr Heaters. My 75,000 unit needed 4" but I've seen 3" kits on Amazon. The B-vent is required in unheated spaces but I used it for my entire run.

Paul
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:55 PM   #8
dave67fd
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

Your Mr Heater requires a 3" vent connector.
You can also vent out through your chimney, but your local codes take juristiction.

All this info is in your manual. You should read it about 10 times, then read again10 more. lol

The unit may be vented vertically as a single appliance or as
a common vent with other gas-fired appliances. In common
venting situations, vent connectors for other appliances
must maintain a 4” (100mm) vertical separation between
the vent connectors. Refer to common venting tables in the
(American) National Fuel Gas Code ANSI Z223.1 or (Canada)
CSA B149.1 Natural Gas and Propane Installation Code for
proper vent size.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:11 PM   #9
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Question Re: Mr heater venting question

For research I've done planning on my own install (ie either MHU45NG or HSU45NG), I've found that double-wall pipe should be used for vertical through ceiling and roof (and code requires 2 feet above roof to cap). My plan is to use 3" vertical flue (double-wall where code requires) so don't have to cut through brick walls of my garage if I were to do horizontal flue. Also will use insulation guard above ceiling so any blown insulation can't pile up next to the fluepipe.

Any one use Uni-strut to install? I went to wholesale shop and they've got a huge one (almost 2 inches) and also a smaller size (little over 1 inch). He also said I could use special spring-loaded nuts that just take a half turn to connect to the Uni-strut. Any example pictures of successful installs as Uni-strut sounds like the way to go?
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:39 PM   #10
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave67fd View Post
Your Mr Heater requires a 3" vent connector.
You can also vent out through your chimney, but your local codes take juristiction.

All this info is in your manual. You should read it about 10 times, then read again10 more. lol

The unit may be vented vertically as a single appliance or as
a common vent with other gas-fired appliances. In common
venting situations, vent connectors for other appliances
must maintain a 4 (100mm) vertical separation between
the vent connectors. Refer to common venting tables in the
(American) National Fuel Gas Code ANSI Z223.1 or (Canada)
CSA B149.1 Natural Gas and Propane Installation Code for
proper vent size.
The 14" vent from the gas fireplace is in all likely hood a vent specific to to the fireplace and as such there will be no way to legally or safely use it as a common vent.

I don't know what the vent "kits" include but I would much prefer buying B-vent from a local source that has everything in stock, that way I can get the exact lengths I need plus extras and return whats not needed.
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Old 10-10-2012, 10:14 AM   #11
nippaero
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

Quote:
Originally Posted by CNGsaves View Post
For research I've done planning on my own install (ie either MHU45NG or HSU45NG), I've found that double-wall pipe should be used for vertical through ceiling and roof (and code requires 2 feet above roof to cap). My plan is to use 3" vertical flue (double-wall where code requires) so don't have to cut through brick walls of my garage if I were to do horizontal flue. Also will use insulation guard above ceiling so any blown insulation can't pile up next to the fluepipe.

Any one use Uni-strut to install? I went to wholesale shop and they've got a huge one (almost 2 inches) and also a smaller size (little over 1 inch). He also said I could use special spring-loaded nuts that just take a half turn to connect to the Uni-strut. Any example pictures of successful installs as Uni-strut sounds like the way to go?

I used Super-Strut for my 45K unit. I got everything at Home Depot. I used the spring loaded nuts and 3/8 threaded rod to install.

I just bought my venting yesterday and will start installing today hopefully. I am going with 3" B vent all the way. Next I'll be trenching the gas line from the house.
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Last edited by nippaero; 10-10-2012 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:42 PM   #12
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

I did the same way. I used stainless just because we had a bunch at work.

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Old 10-10-2012, 10:14 PM   #13
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

Uni-strut to hang mine, too.



And B-vent all the way to the cap.
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:25 AM   #14
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Question Re: Mr heater venting question

Nice installs with Uni-strut and great quality venting. Thanks for pics.

Hope to soon be trenching about 20 feet for my underground yellow plastic NG line to garage. Anyone with knocks against Stab-lock connectors for physical connection of yellow plastic pipe to the upright steel risers? Most plumbers here only do Stab-lock as don't have fuser machines. Comments?
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:23 AM   #15
nippaero
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

Guys, how did you connect the vent to the back of the heater. Did you add a couple sheet metal screws to keep it in place or use tape or?

Also, I see some of you are using a firestop plate where it goes through the ceiling. I was going to just use one half of a wall thimble. Any problem with this?

Last edited by nippaero; 10-11-2012 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:38 AM   #16
mrobins297aaa
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

you can screw it where it connects to the heater, thats the only place you can put screws in it..............don't use tape
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:09 AM   #17
nippaero
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

Are you saying not to screw the B vent joints?
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:42 AM   #18
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

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Are you saying not to screw the B vent joints?
The B-vent should have locking tabs on each section so no screw are required

Paul
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:12 PM   #19
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

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Are you saying not to screw the B vent joints?
if you screw the pipe in any place other than where it connects to the applaince you will lose the UL rating on it.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:54 PM   #20
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Default Re: Mr heater venting question

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Originally Posted by nippaero View Post
Guys, how did you connect the vent to the back of the heater. Did you add a couple sheet metal screws to keep it in place or use tape or?

Also, I see some of you are using a firestop plate where it goes through the ceiling. I was going to just use one half of a wall thimble. Any problem with this?
I have a single wall 90 which is screwed to the flue transistion with three screws. The 90 is then connected to the b-vent with three longer screws and are used to lock the single to b-vent only. You don't wan't to distort the b-vent. Use silastic or similar to seal the annular area of the b-vent.

I'm sure your local codes require a firestop plate.

http://www.checkthishouse.com/qa/194...ngle-wall-pipe
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Last edited by dave67fd; 10-11-2012 at 09:00 PM.
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