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#41 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 636
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Use this Bot to calculate your energy savings and identify ROI - I think you will find it compelling. All that other stuff, Mercury/Carbon/Global warming, etc is bonus http://www.creells.com/calculator.aspx |
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#42 |
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JoeReed
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Cordova TN
Posts: 61
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In my typical 2 car garage, I installed a couple of those dome shaped light fixtures that seem to be used as bedroom fixtures in most of the new houses. Lowe's has them....2 for $19.99 - designed for 2 60w incandescent bulbs in each fixture. Instead, I used the 100w "equivalent" CFLs - actually 23w each. Since they draw less current and run cooler than the 60w bulbs the fixtures were designed for, there should be no problem with the upgrade. I chose the "daylight" bulbs, since I wanted the brightest, whitest light possible. Other than taking a few seconds to get to full brightness if the garage is cold, I can't think of a single other negative. I have a regular bulb in the garage door opener, so I can always just switch that on if needed. The positives are:
-Cheap and easy (I'm always broke and lazy )-Plenty of light, and it's well disbursed since the light shines 360 degrees (much better than can lights in that respect) -They look nice -Since they are pretty well sealed, I don't have to empty bugs out of 'em like I always had to do the tube fixtures with the plastic diffusers -the only intrusion into the insulation above is the small round plastic box (again, much better than can lights I like them so well I'm going to install a couple more since they're so cheap and easy to do. The first two were installed toward the "front" of the garage - where most of the work is done. They actually light the entire garage pretty well, but I'm going to put another pair toward the "door" end of the garage to even it out a bit more.... |
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#43 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 636
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Quote:
Remember - a typical incandescent lamp converts only about 15% - 20% of its input power into visible light, with losses owed to heat (heat, IR/UV, etc) Prices: I have seen some high prices, and I have seen some reasonable prices. I have not yet seen low prices. Check with CREE distributors, but I note that China seems to be at the cutting edge of marketing this technology. I truly believe that within this next admin, you will see the LEDs sitting as the centerpiece of drastic energy change policies Best! |
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#44 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 636
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"a)How many you found; Several pages on the internet and I know HD has them. b) $$ what it cost you; $10.32 on the Internet...not sure of HD's price" You got an Internet string? LEDs are very easy to dim and are typically run at between 3 to 5 VDC. However, many of the LED systems you see are based on 120VAC to accommodate retrofit applications. That is, they run 120VAC and stepdown/rectify/regulate at the appliance rather than run low-voltage DC through teh same cables. |
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#45 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hightstown,N.J.
Posts: 709
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Not that I want to throw a bucket of cold water on everyones enthusiasm,but I believe a very important point is being missed in regards to any recessed light in a garage with living space above.IIRC,any wall or cieling between a garage and living space has to have a minimum fire rating.Any box fixture or other device mounted flush in the fire rated ceiling must have a fire rating equal to or superior to the rating of the wall/ceiling.Good luck finding that in a reasonably priced can or recessed flourescent.The best way to deal with this is to use surface mount your light fixtures,unless $ is no object.
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Chisel,Bend And Burn To Fit- |
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#46 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 474
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......assuming there is living space above. Most standard garages do not have living quarters above unless you are building a 2-story garage or if it is part of those bi/tri-level houses.
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1970 Mach 1 1970 Mustang Fastback 2003 Mustang 2005 F150 FX4 Licensed Professional Engineer, PE (Civil) Licensed Structural Engineer, SE |
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#47 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 81
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I've already contacted our fire marshal to talk about fire code for this project. the only requirement is to have a layer of 5/8" fire rated gypsum between the garage and the living space above it. I was already planning to build recessed boxes around each can to satisfy Icynene install requirements. Obviously I'm going to have to line the box with drywall if I decide to go with a recessed fixture solution.
Thanks for pointing out a very critical consideration. I mean this sincerely. My neighbor's house burnt down 6 months ago, (their car shorted and caught fire as it was sitting in the garage one night). The fact that their garage was up to fire code, enabled them to escape safely. |
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#48 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 81
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In case some of you are curious, I've attached some pictures of the garage. Yes, it needs a lot of work, (you'll be seeing a lot of me in the upcoming months), but at least you'll have some idea what I'm up against.
This is the front of the house. Notice the little octagon window..that is the outside wall of the master bath..hence we have living space above our garage. ![]() The single bay: ![]() Better shot of the single bay...see, there's a door back there! ![]() Looking across form the single bay to the double bay: ![]() Front of the double bay: ![]() Looking across the double bay to the single bay:
Last edited by a3tripod; 01-07-2009 at 12:35 PM. |
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#49 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: S. California
Posts: 3,411
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I feel better now....I'm not the only one with a lot of stuff....
Nice looking house though....garage has a LOT of potential. I should have 3 cans wired up by tonight......these 3 cans are actually outside in front of my garage. The idea is that I'll be able to work on my jeep with plenty of light and not have it shining into the neighbors yard... The 3 6" cans are evenly spaced across the front of the garage opening. Where the ladder is is about where the left one is...one in the center and the last one on the right. With the flash off on the camera, I should be able to get a good idea of the light and pattern.
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John 2-Story Garage Complete My Garage Build Link Home for..... 84 CJ7 - With a 'few' modifications.. My Jeep Build Link And my wife's art Studio... and 3 kids with more energy than we have... |
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#50 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 81
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Glad I could bring some comfort to you
You're project is coming along nicely.Actually, I'm going to be building a shed first so I can move most of that junk out. My plan is to keep the mitre saw, table saw, compressor, drill press and tool chests in the garage. Most of the rest of that is going in the shed. |
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#51 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1
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Thanks for the info. guys. I was looking at lighting my new garage and was going to go with 4' tubes, but I had those in my last garage and they flickered a lot, ballast went out, and so on. It will be cheaper for me to just put 20 light fixtures with CFL bulbs and call it good. I'm not sure if I'll use the cans though. I might just go with the standard screw in open style fixture.
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#52 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 47
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Can someone post some pics of their CFL cans installed? Just to see a visual of what a garage would look like with cans!
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#53 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: S. California
Posts: 3,411
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Quote:
There are 12 cans in the back half of the garage.... ![]() This is a view towards the front.....I have 6 cans in the front....positioned around the outside profile of the garage door when it is up.....I thought about putting some where the garage door is when it's up.....but when it's up, the lights are blocked.....I might try the idea that one member came up with where he put lights on the garage door.....
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John 2-Story Garage Complete My Garage Build Link Home for..... 84 CJ7 - With a 'few' modifications.. My Jeep Build Link And my wife's art Studio... and 3 kids with more energy than we have... |
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