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Old 03-04-2009, 07:14 AM   #1
Yamaha74
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Default Adding a Lean To

I would like to add one to my barn for my 28ft travel trailer camper. I am not sure what the best and cheapest way to do it is at this point. The only thing I am not sure about yet was how to is fasten my rafters to the barn. I was thinking of just running a 2x12 all the way the length of the barn (40ft) at the very top and then mounting joice hangers to that. Then I would set my rafters in the joice hangers. Then the rafters would run out to the beams which would probably have a 2x12 running on each side of them. Hopefully this makes sense and any other suggestions would be great.

I have attached a picture of my barn. I am planning on putting the lean too on the right hand side. It will go the length of the barn (40ft) and probably come out 10 - 12 feet from the barn.
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File Type: jpg House and Barn 013.jpg (141.5 KB, 158 views)

Last edited by Yamaha74; 03-05-2009 at 06:26 AM.
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Old 03-04-2009, 10:34 AM   #2
Stargeezer
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

Looks like if you add it to the right hand side-the RV will block the door and windows? Considert hat and also are you going to add gravel there to park on?
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Old 03-04-2009, 03:27 PM   #3
Yamaha74
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

The camper will block the windows, but not the door. The door is pretty close to the front of the barn and the camper will be backed up all the way to the back of the barn. I will be leveling out the right side and pouring concrete. The reason the right side is the route I am going is because we like that side better for cover because I can use it to sit under and there is a better view of my neighbors pond and my yard. Eventually I might add a lean too to the left side but not now.
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Old 03-04-2009, 03:30 PM   #4
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

Is that all stick framed inside or is it a pole barn type building?

If it is stick built, then you could attach a 2x8 (I don't think a 12" is necessary) to the studs through the siding (it will crush the siding tho) and then use joist hangers to run your roof.

Depending on the snow load (OH I am sure has some steep requirements) you might need to run the larger rafter (an 8" would work here for me in the Seattle area with only a 25lb snow load requirement).

And, depending on the wall height, you will have to consider the pitch as well. It looks like you can only run a 12/2 pitch on that roof to fit the height of the trailer. That will necessitate a stronger run from the wall to the support posts.

You would just use a 6x6 for the outside posts. I don't think I would use the steel. You can either mount them down in cement or just cement in an adjustable mount. Then level them out and build away.

I am doing something similar with my shop. To cover a motorhome.

Mine will be along the left side of the shop where the meter is.
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Old 03-04-2009, 04:51 PM   #5
Yamaha74
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

It is a polebarn style. There is a 2x12 runing the length of the barn on the top of each side of the 4x6 posts which are 8 ft apart. So I figured I could screw the 2x12 or 2x?? on to that then mount my joice hangers to that. Now I did build walls out of 2x4's and stood them up between the 4x6 posts and insulated the walls and then hung 1/2 in. plywood.

I am not sure what the snow load is in Ohio, but I am sure it is up there.

My celing is 12ft inside and the camper height to the top of the air conditioner is 10'3". So, you are right the lean to pitch couldn't be real steep.

The other reason I am putting this on the right side is because that is where my septic tank for the barn is and I figured I could put in a dumpstation right into the concrete that runs to my septic and leach bed.

I have added some more pictures of the barn for your viewing.
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File Type: jpg House and Barn 019.jpg (132.4 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg House and Barn 008.jpg (141.5 KB, 129 views)
File Type: jpg House and Barn 006.jpg (140.0 KB, 124 views)
File Type: jpg House and Barn 009.jpg (134.9 KB, 124 views)
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Old 03-05-2009, 01:42 AM   #6
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

I am getting ready to start my 40x32 garage build and will have lean too as well. I had to have an engineer to do calcs on my plans and here is what he came up with for a 12x32 lean to with 24" overhang: 2x10 ledger attached to the wall at each stud with 1/4x3 1/2 screws w/washer, 2x8 rafters 24" O.C., 6x10 beam and 6x6 posts, 4/12 roof pitch.
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Old 03-05-2009, 06:28 AM   #7
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

vvk645, what do you mean by 6x10 beam? Will this be the beam that runs across the top of your 6x6 posts and will it be on the outside or inside of the posts?
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:18 PM   #8
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamaha74 View Post
vvk645, what do you mean by 6x10 beam? Will this be the beam that runs across the top of your 6x6 posts and will it be on the outside or inside of the posts?
So one side of the roof/rafters will be attached to the wall with ledger and the other side will be supported by 6x10 beam that will be on top of the 6x6 posts. Posts will be on 24"x24"x10" cement pads and attached with SIMPSON STRONG TIE PB66 at the base. Beam will be secured to the top of the posts with Simpson Strong Tie AC6 post caps.
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:52 PM   #9
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

Here is a pic of mine. I plan on using gravel under the lean-to.
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Old 03-06-2009, 01:21 AM   #10
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

Hey VVK! I am in Olympia as well. Who is doing your shop? The guy I used did a great job and was reasonable. Just got final the other day.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:14 AM   #11
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shocker View Post
Hey VVK! I am in Olympia as well. Who is doing your shop? The guy I used did a great job and was reasonable. Just got final the other day.
So far the plan is to sub out framing, some electracal and pouring the slab and I am planing on doing the rest (with help from friends)
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Old 03-08-2009, 10:43 AM   #12
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

Does all the lumber for the lean to need to be treated or can I use yellow pine for some of it. I would think that only the posts and the ledger board would need to be treated. Does the rafter boards or beam on top of the posts need to be treated?
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:32 AM   #13
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

I wouldnt use treated for any of it.

Just set the posts on tall piers, with stand-off post bases.
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Old 03-08-2009, 12:18 PM   #14
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

Pitch will dictate rafter size as will span and headroom...they will all coenside in the big picture. For the roof framing itself as well ass the beams you can get by with standard construction lumber, posts since they will be in contact with the ground and around a mositure area, use treated to ensure longevity.

While it's not a garage lean to, this customer wanted their 42' deck covered since it was a southern exposure it was to hot to utilize during the summer months. Their budget could'nt afford the roof in a standard configuration to tie into the existing roof so we could match pitches so we were forced into doing a shed/lean to roof. We had to span 14' if i recall, and since headroom was an issue with the patio door, elevated deck, etc...we were forced to use 2x8 12" o.c. and then we took and put 1/2" OSB sheathing on it, covered the entire roof deck with ice guard (more of an anal precaution on part of the home owner) and then covered in steel. but you can get the jist of it.




So the biggest thing is calculating how much headroom you need and that will dictate rafter size and then you factor in span for a final rafter size and spacing. Are the sides going to enclose the sides or it is simply open like th pictures above? If enclosed and completely out of the way of water, just be sure to put in steel brackets on the sonotubes so the wood posts are not in contact with the concrete, this will prevent any rot from taking place. DO NOT bury the posts, esspecially in concrete as this traps moisture around the posts and begins rotting them.

I know many know it all will say "we've never had a problem setting posts in cement" well, i and every contractor that goes back in years later and replaces posts for various projects will tell you in 100% certainty they WILL rot, not today, not tomorrow, but over time...so doing it right the first time is cruital so your not having to mess with this crap ever again later.
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Old 03-09-2009, 10:24 AM   #15
Yamaha74
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

The pitch will not be very steep, basically just enough to get water to run off of it. I guess it will have about 1 foot of fall in 12 feet. The lean to will be 12wide x 40long.

I need 10'5" of head room for my camper to fit under. From the ground to the bottom of the soffit is around 12ft. What size lumber do you think I should use for ledger board, rafters, beam, and posts?

The sides will not be inclosed. It will be just like the pictures you provided.

I appreciate the help and the pictures you provided.
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Old 03-09-2009, 01:53 PM   #16
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

Yamaha
If I remember my Ohio geography you are somewhere around Columbus which puts you in roughly the same area for snow load as me in Indiana. I don't know if you are a candidate for lake effect snow which is a whole different mess that I don't need to worry about.

Anyway, my shop is 30' X 48' and I have a lean-to down the 48' length, it is 12' wide. I tied a series of 2" X 8"s to the side of the barn just as you are wanting to do using joist hangers to support the rafters as well. The other side is supported by 4-4" X 6" posts with 2" X 8" strung across to support the rafters. I laid the rafters on top of the 2" X 8"s and used hurricane ties to nail them down. The rafters are 2" X 4"s spaced at 16" and I did put a small piece of 2" X 4" between each rafter tying it to the one beside it. The lean-to has been up for nearly 10 years without any problems. Oh, my drop is the same as yours and I used treated posts, all the rest of the lumber was pine.

A couple of recommendations or "damn, why didn't I know this":
1-Try to seal the point where the roof of your lean-to meets your building. Otherwise during a good rain you'll have water coming down the wall of your barn and sitting on the concrete (or gravel in my case..)

2-You have increased the amount of water coming off your barn substantially with this addition, be sure to have a place for it to go, especially since your leach bed is on the same side. You mention a neighbors pond, maybe he'll let you dump water from a drain tile to it.

3-If you have the damned wood boring bees in Johnstown they'll set-up housekeeping there in no time. You will want to paint the lumber to cut down on this. If someone knows of another method that keeps these pests away that works, please share.
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Old 03-09-2009, 02:40 PM   #17
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

Firetrucks,
I am about 30 minutes NE of Columbus. Thanks for all the good advise. I don't think we have to much trouble with wood boring bees, but who knows we might.

You were able to get by with using 2x4's as your rafters? What did you use as your roofing material?
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:41 PM   #18
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

Given the span and height restrictions there is NO WAY 2x4 is anywhere NEAR enough, much less 16" o.c. it is easy to say there were no permits pulled on the above mentioned job as even a blind inspector would've caught that and threw the red tag on the job until it was remedied...what you just read above is the typical "well that's what i did and it's still holding up" and that's fine and good, but regardless span tables are built based on historical facts and loads for safety.

HERE is a span chart for you so you can see what i'm talking about, hopefully you can see what it all means, but if you need explaination, let me know. The 2x4 system listed above is "safe" for an 8'2" span with an unfinished underside. Your roof is going to be just like the deck cover we did since it is almost flat, and to retain your headroom and given the height under the soffit you have to work with, you can get by with 2x6's 12" o.c. or 2x8's 24" o.c. Personally if i were hired to do the job i would use 2x8 16" o.c. for the over kill factor sicne you never know how much snow you will get, and being how the roof is almost flat that is a huge amount of dead weight up there so it's better to be safe than sorry, esspecially when our name is on it and we'd be liable should it fall onto whatever is being covered under it.

You have 2 roofing options as well with the darn near flat roof. You cannot use asphalt/fiberglass shingles on anything under a 4/12 pitch since there is'nt a enough drainage to prevent water from backing up under the tabs. So you can either use steel or rubber roofing. Both are fine if installed correctly. We chose steel on the roof above for decreased labor installation and roughly the same material cost vs rubber membrane. It goes up extrememly fast, and like i said, we still installed roof sheathing over the rafters like a normal roof, but we installed ice guard over it to ensure if water did somehow get under the steel it would not degrade the roof structure.

If you decided to use rubber you will still have to install a plywood deck over the rafters and then install a layer of asphalt saturated board/horse hair board.....the light weight black fiberboards. They have large washers you will use to screw these panels of fiberboard to the wood deck, and then you will rolll out the adhesive and start installing the membrane. It sounds easier than it really is, membranes are a PITA to install correctly, but when done right they are very durable and carry a 50yr warranty.

So the choice is yours, have to let us know what you decided to do.
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:56 AM   #19
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Any Update?
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Old 09-02-2009, 11:56 AM   #20
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Default Re: Adding a Lean To

I know this goes against every "garage is castle" rule out there, but... Have you looked into offsite off-season storage for the camper? I found a place that will store mine all winter, inside, for about $300. (Yes, that's $300 for the ENTIRE winter. Yes, it's cheap.)

Pretty hard to make those numbers work out... Paying for the shed addition vs. paying for storage rent.
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