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#1 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 8,918
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OK boys, I finally found some time toput togther a rattle-can shaker/mixer. As some of you know, I asked for ideas and got somegood ones, but thought at first I'd use a windsheild wiper motor as the base motor. Then I got to thinking about one of the ideas posted of using a drill as the base motor and saw something on the net that I thought would work. I put it togther with stuff I had lying around the shop, which means it could be much better with some design-specific purchases. So this one is just a rough proto, but it works!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Le PIECE DE RESISTANCE!!!!!>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ![]()
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VISIT me at www.E-TekRestorations.com OR, read the blog: www.E-TekRestorations.blogspot.com Quote:
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: tuttle, ok
Posts: 116
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Ready to take orders??
Pretty cool! |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: illinois -- NW Burbs
Posts: 1,472
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very cool, why not just shake the can?
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 8,918
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Ya right- and why not just walk to the friggin' store???
![]() When I restore parts for my car restorations, I sometimes needs 4-5 different cans and like to first shake the sh!t outof them and second keep them shaken (shooked? ) throughout. I made a parts paint booth last year to minimize the overspray and fumes....and the idea grew from there.
__________________
VISIT me at www.E-TekRestorations.com OR, read the blog: www.E-TekRestorations.blogspot.com Quote:
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northeastern CT
Posts: 4,583
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I think that you need to add a heater to warm the paint in the car, so it flows better when you are spraying..
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Philosopher Emeritus Of Garage Journal Men wake up as good-looking as they went to bed. Women somehow deteriorate during the night. Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level, then beat you with experience. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: tuttle, ok
Posts: 116
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: North East Georgia
Posts: 4,708
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 14,463
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Because he has Chilli. He's never had to shake his can of paint
Last edited by Kevin54; 03-15-2009 at 05:06 AM. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: here
Posts: 553
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so physically shaking the can by hand was too hard?
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 828
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Nice job E-tek. Going to post in fab section as well ?
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#11 |
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Senior Member
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Watched the video and it looks like it over centered there at the end....Jammed up and stalled. Ha Ha ha..(sorry) It's a prototype. Try to lengthen one of the cranks a bit longer than the other. That way it will never over-centre and probably shake harder.
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#12 | |||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 8,918
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Quote:
Plus, I'd rather sepnd 10 hours thinking, 10hours building and $3 in parts...,PLUS: it keeps me out of trouble....and:Quote:
![]() See earlier replies....short answer: YES! Finally, someone with some actual input! But I don't think it's the length so much as it's the angle of the holes in the back base. On the next one I'll try to move the top hole further out so it stays leaning to that side. The bottom arm is to move circularly and the top arm is only to move up and down.
__________________
VISIT me at www.E-TekRestorations.com OR, read the blog: www.E-TekRestorations.blogspot.com Quote:
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Celina Ohio
Posts: 40
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I have seen some quick release style clamps for grease guns that would work really nice for that or a fire extinguisher clamp, maybe you could pad the inside of the clamp with a wrap around baby bottle warmer and warm the paint at the same time. just my 2 cents.
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Avoca, Iowa
Posts: 1,277
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I have a few suggestion for your next proto-type. You can get a hose clamp saddle that uses a carrage bolt on the outside of the clamp. Another possibility would be a kitchen fire extinguiser holder. As for the crank drive, the crank arms from a wiper system would be more accurate, but your system works.
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"More than just a Handyman" |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
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Seems like it doesn't really go fast enough to fully shake the can?
I've always wanted one of the shakers for cans like the paint stores have... Amazing the prices they want for those things! |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Canton, Ga.
Posts: 252
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Great idea E-tek; I hate to waste time shaking a paint can.
Take a look at the Quickfist clamps from http://www.endroad.com/page/page/711712.htm in place of the hose clamp. Thanks for the sharing with us. Mike |
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 50
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You can also checkout a local HVAC / control shop for some goodies to make the prototyping adjustments easier and the final version cooler. In the HVAC controls industry, we use lots of crankarms with slots for pivot location adjustablility, 5/16 or 3/8 rod stock for connecting arms and clamp on ball pivots the let you easily adjust the rod length. These items used in concert can adjust the torque multiplication and range of motion as you alter the power
owered device ratio.A bunch of these parts on seen on the link here: http://www.kele.com/olcat/AD20/Actuator-Accessories.pdf You can find these type of goodies at distribution warehouses liek Johnstone Supply, Baker, MSC, Amcon, United refrigeration, McMaster-Carr and possibly even Graingers. |
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#18 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Saskatoon, SK
Posts: 8,918
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Some great ideas here. Now I can see what I should do for a proper working model. I would get a small motor with a graduated switch and use ball and socket ends, with threaded rods between. This would make it adjustable and very smooth. A clamp such as those descibed would be ticket too. The proto rubs on the can and the last thing you'd want is to puncture a full can!
Like I said, I threw this together with stuff lying around the shop just to see if the basic idea would work. If I had access to all that HVAC stuff it'd be real slick!
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VISIT me at www.E-TekRestorations.com OR, read the blog: www.E-TekRestorations.blogspot.com Quote:
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 650
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A couple of suggestions:
1. In your prototype unit, load the can upside down. The solids settle to the bottom and by inverting the can you let gravity cooperate with the agitator. 2. Consider a unit where the can is positioned horizontally for similar reasons to above. Take a look at how the can is loaded in these two commercial units that are variations on a theme: Northern Tool's Astro Shaker Another Astro Shaker And here's a homebrew unit with the same concept: Homemade Shaker from Washing Machine Agitator 3. I personally like the idea of this homemade unit where the loaded can is enclosed in a length of PVC pipe. Agitator with PVC Pipe Can Holder Here is a commercial unit that utilizes springs and a cam motion: Tornado Shaker And as a novelty for inspiration, here's one built from Legos. Legos Paint Shaker Thanks for inviting us in on your fun project. I can imagine how aggravating it must be to have to manually shake cans all day. |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sierra Foothills, Nor. Calif.
Posts: 249
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Very cool thinking E-tek.
Looking at the early protptype some ideas come to mind. If you could set it up to run like a small crankshaft, with counterweights, etc, and put two "shaking stations" on it, you could shake the primer can and one top-coat, or have options to plan out your usage. Also, why not weld a 1/4 -20 nut to the end of the shaft, then put a socket on your drill to actuate the shaker from the end of the shaft outside the mechanism? I think this shiznit is fun, too.
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Proud Father of a Veteran of the U.S. army, and uncle of a United States Army Ranger. |
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