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Old 05-09-2009, 08:51 PM   #1
G-force
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Default Maxjax Installs: Post Here

*pictures below*

Well since it seems everyone is getting there lifts up and running I thought it would be good to have a dedicated Maxjax picture post for all the different installs.

I am leaving soon to go get my ATF fluid so I can get my lift bled tonight and hopefully post some pictures.

I mounted my posts at 125" from outside edge to outside edge. I will be lifting a 2008 Tacoma, 2008 FJ Cruiser, 1990 VW Cabriolet, 1951 International Pickup along with a Harley, a couple quads and my Kubota CUT.

I think I will need an extra set of pad extensions for the 1951.

Last edited by G-force; 05-10-2009 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 05-09-2009, 10:12 PM   #2
Junkman
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Default Re: MaxJax Installs: Post Here

I asked Gabe about extending the hight of the pads, and he said that he will have to first check with engineering to make sure that it will not cause any undesirable effect. The higher that you go with the pad pins, the greater the chance of twisting the arms.
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Old 05-09-2009, 10:32 PM   #3
PowerDubs
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Default Re: MaxJax Installs: Post Here

One spot in the manual says you can stack to 9 inch, another place says don't go more than 6....
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Old 05-09-2009, 11:23 PM   #4
Junkman
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Default Re: Maxjax Installs: Post Here

The manual proof reader didn't do a good job....
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Old 05-10-2009, 02:19 PM   #5
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Default Re: Maxjax Installs: Post Here

I got everything bled and working. It took 8 qts of ATF rather than the 7 qts the manual stated. It lifted nice and even and had minimal air to bleed out. The install was done by myself from start to finish.

Danmar customer service was great through the whole process. I had some items damaged during shipping and Gabe sent out replacements right away, free of charge with no questions asked.



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Old 05-10-2009, 03:32 PM   #6
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Default Re: Maxjax Installs: Post Here

hey junk, maybe you can answer this..........when you disconnect the hoses and put them away, the chances of air being reintoduced to the system when reconnected, neceesitate the rebleeding of the system?..........and hardly made a dent in the shop to even unload it...........damn i gotta stay focused and stop rockin to the tunes
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Old 05-10-2009, 04:48 PM   #7
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Default Re: MaxJax Installs: Post Here

Here is a picture of the hydraulic fitting. Because this is a flat faced full flow connector, it would be just about impossible to introduce air into the system with this design. I don't see air entrapment as being much of a problem for the future. The only place that I can see any air getting into the system is if you were to have cavitation in the pump itself, causing an aeration of the fluid. If that were the case, then you would have a defective pump.
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File Type: jpg MVC-015L.JPG (57.1 KB, 334 views)
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Old 05-10-2009, 05:58 PM   #8
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Default Re: Maxjax Installs: Post Here

that's what i kinda figured and was hoping to hear..........any body have any suggestions for this little dilema...........my floor isn't the best and i figured i would drill piers and box in a pad on top for the anchors.........this is pretty easy for me as i have an old dig-r-mobile post hole digger with 6,8and 10 inch augers with the capability to go down 7 feet, which may be the thing to do as far as frost goes, unheated floor and all..........so any suggestions are appreciated..........over engineered is okay with me but no need go to nuts either.........of course rebar will be part of the formula too, so i bow to the collective wisdom on here for guidance...........and no keying the pad underneath isn't a viable option safty wise...........as for concrete, depending on the amount i may buy from a supplier but alos have the capacity to mix my own too as my mixer is two years old and the old m250 is capable of at least a yard and a half of gravel...........won't get to this project for at lest two weeks if the weather holds..........or maybe until depeuty dawg pops back into town.............
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Old 05-10-2009, 06:39 PM   #9
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Installation was quick and easy. Had to put it in wife's side of garage since concrete was bad on my side. Will pour new floor in next couple of months and redo.

Extremely happy with the lift. Just the ticket for a normal garage.

John
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Old 05-10-2009, 08:01 PM   #10
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Default Re: MaxJax Installs: Post Here

Quote:
Originally Posted by tatra View Post
that's what i kinda figured and was hoping to hear..........any body have any suggestions for this little dilema...........my floor isn't the best and i figured i would drill piers and box in a pad on top for the anchors.........this is pretty easy for me as i have an old dig-r-mobile post hole digger with 6,8and 10 inch augers with the capability to go down 7 feet, which may be the thing to do as far as frost goes, unheated floor and all..........so any suggestions are appreciated..........over engineered is okay with me but no need go to nuts either.........of course rebar will be part of the formula too, so i bow to the collective wisdom on here for guidance...........and no keying the pad underneath isn't a viable option safty wise...........as for concrete, depending on the amount i may buy from a supplier but alos have the capacity to mix my own too as my mixer is two years old and the old m250 is capable of at least a yard and a half of gravel...........won't get to this project for at lest two weeks if the weather holds..........or maybe until depeuty dawg pops back into town.............
I am willing to offer advise on almost any subject that I have knowledge about, however, when it comes to advise where safety is a major concern, I will only advise that you get professional advise on the piers. There are too many variables to be considered, from the soil types to depths. What might work well here in CT, might not work at all in NV. Even mixing your own concrete might be fine if you know how to determine the strength from the mix formula, but if you just throw in some cement, sand, and stone, mix with water, and set in place, it might not be any better that what you already have. Junk..
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:11 AM   #11
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Cool Re: Maxjax Installs: Post Here

Here is what it looks like when you get it:





It weights 800-900lbs... so without a lift it is going no where...

For those getting ready... the instructions tells you that you will need 7 quarts of ATF fluid. That assumes that your bottles and hoses are full. So plan on using 9 quarts.

System needs to be bleed to get the air out. Easy to do, just follow the instructions. You will need to bleed it a couple of times to make sure you have all the air out...



Since I have a three car garage, I wanted to have the ability to use it in the single and in the double bay. You can ask for additional anchors when ordering the lift or you can buy them via the web...

The anchors are WEJ-IT® POWER-Drop - 7/8 x 3-13/16 (5/8 Internal thread) -
http://www.alliedbolt.com/wejit.html

I found serveral places on the web that sells them:

http://store.eberliron.com/products/...drop_in_anchor

http://www.drillspot.com/products/43...Drop-IN_Anchor

Another great suggestions is to also pour some epoxy for concrete before dropping the anchor and/or to fill any space on top of the anchor.

Specs on the anchors?





How apart to install the columns?

In the single bay I have mine at 115" (measured from the outside of the base). Getting out of the car is a tight fit. Moving the arms into position is also a tight fit... arms need to be all the way in and, depending on the car, I need to have someone in the car to move forward while I slide the arm in, and them backwards a little to slide the second arm in. Keep in mind that test cars were Porsche 911 ('83, '91, '02). Something with a longer wheel base will not be so much of an issue. I also took into consideration being able to close the garage door with the car on the lift, sounds stupid, but I just want to make sure you don't drill it with the right width only to find out that half the car is sticking out of the garage...

In the double bay I have them at 128" (again, measured from the outside of the base) and it works great... easy access to the lifting points, easy to open the doors, still within the 130" limit in the install manual for trucks (eventhough I am using it for smaller cars), and I can slide the arms in and out without having a second person moving the car around.

Electrical?? Be sure to have a 20amp outlet... you will trigger the 15amp breaker from time to time if you decide not to go with a 20amp setup.

Holes?

You really need to follow the directions on the drilling... after following the instructions all holes aligned perfectly. I made additional holes to swap the towers between the single bay and the double bay. It helps that the hole are symmetrical so turning the tower 180 degrees only requires drilling one more hole for that column.

I did used the shims on one column to make the distance at the bottom of the column and the top to be equal.

I also needed to cut some of the washers to make them fit the colums as some of the holes were to close to the welds...

Washers cut to fit...




Another useful thread:

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31570

I hope that helps.

This lift will get used a lot! Best purchase I have made, and coming from having a midrise lift, I really like not having all that metal under the car while working on it. The ability of getting back my garage space when I am done is also a major plus. Thank you Dannmar for giving us a two-post lift we can use in our low ceiling garages!!
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Last edited by wachuko; 05-11-2009 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 05-11-2009, 01:26 PM   #12
mbutler
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Default Re: Maxjax Installs: Post Here

BTW, wachuko, the first link for anchors isn't the correct part number. That one
is for the WD-58, which is rather different from the PD-58. Far as I can tell, toolfetch
doesn't have the PD-58.
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Old 05-11-2009, 02:11 PM   #13
wachuko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbutler View Post
BTW, wachuko, the first link for anchors isn't the correct part number. That one
is for the WD-58, which is rather different from the PD-58. Far as I can tell, toolfetch
doesn't have the PD-58.
Good catch. I removed the link.

I ordered mine from http://www.drillspot.com
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Old 05-15-2009, 11:16 AM   #14
thefirebuilds
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Default Re: Maxjax Installs: Post Here

testing placement

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Old 05-15-2009, 12:08 PM   #15
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Default Re: Maxjax Installs: Post Here

This question goes out to Junkman and thefirebuilds, Just curious but it looks like both of you have adequate clearance for a small full size lift, what made you decide on the MaxJax? Again just curious as some of the others may wonder the same thing.
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by accord driver View Post
This question goes out to Junkman and thefirebuilds, Just curious but it looks like both of you have adequate clearance for a small full size lift, what made you decide on the MaxJax? Again just curious as some of the others may wonder the same thing.
We bought it due to its portability. We bought two sets of wej-its. What you can't see here is the other half of our shop which is better insulated and cheaper to heat in winter. This side of the shop is $350 to heat in the winter, the other is about $150, so our plan is to move the system over in the winter to our "warm storage" and allow this side to go cold. Due to the position in the sun and the way our roof is the other "half" of the shop is generally 10-20* hotter. Great in the winter, terrible in the summer

What is hard to convey is that our shop is in a constant state of flux, cars coming and going, so we needed the flexibility to move the lift and couldn't leave them permanently really...
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:16 PM   #17
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Default Re: Maxjax Installs: Post Here

Another question for thefirebulds. I see you have a the 'bone' creeper how do you like it?
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:17 PM   #18
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Another question for thefirebulds. I see you have a the 'bone' creeper how do you like it?
meh. sometimes it rolls too easily. Also there isn't a great place to rest your head and no place for tools. Save your money.
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Old 05-15-2009, 02:37 PM   #19
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meh. sometimes it rolls too easily. Also there isn't a great place to rest your head and no place for tools. Save your money.
I have one too and I agree that sometimes it rolls too easy. I like mine personally and think it's worth the money compared to others on the market. Plus if you ever need to use it outside, even on gravel it rolls very smoothly.
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Old 05-15-2009, 02:48 PM   #20
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I have one too and I agree that sometimes it rolls too easy. I like mine personally and think it's worth the money compared to others on the market. Plus if you ever need to use it outside, even on gravel it rolls very smoothly.
I am pretty claustrophic so laying completely prone on the floor is really hard. You lose all leverage with your bank flat out.
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