bmwpower's garage build

[bmwpower]

It's been a long time coming. I've wanted to start one of these threads ever since I joined up on garagejunkies some time ago, but unfortunately most of my garage was done by the time I signed up here. I wish it was the other way around because I could have changed a couple of things along the way with some of the advice I've gathered from garagejunkies.

I'm going to finally get off my butt and post some pictures. So here we go...I'm going to try and touch on the build process from start to finish. For reference, it took 4-1/2 years to get to where I am now (just got my CO in April '06). We (my father, myself and some friends/family from time to time) started to build the garage at the same time we started to build the house. We subbed out some of the work (masonry, roofing), but most of it we completed ourselves. As with most new builds, things didn't go as planned, so we ended up having to finish the house first (more on this later).... enjoy.


November 11, 2001 - we break ground on the house/garage foundation




November 30, 2001 - foundation for the garage is complete, 30x30




December 22, 2001 - foundation is finished and backfilled



...sadly this is where the garage remained until almost 3 years later. There was a miscommunication between us and the building construction office. Long story short, apparently the garage was too large when compared to the square footage of my house even though the office had given me an "ok" to start construction. They had me stop construction until I obtained a variance for the garage. After a lawyer, $550 and a couple of months later, I had my variance. Unfortunately, we were in the thick of building the house, thus we decided to leave the garage until last. Well you guessed it... house is done, no more money, bills, taxes, etc., so the garage foundation sat as is for some time. No problem. That gives me time to get a rock solid plan for what was to go inside...

[bmwpower]

August 7, 2004 - restart of garage build!...material delivery

Finally, I got the chance to start building the garage again. Here's what became of the garage foundation over the last several years...basically, a storage area for my yard junk.




August 9, 2004 - First wall starts to go up. Ceiling will be 14'3" high.




August 10, 2004 - Almost all the walls are up.




August 24, 2004 - Trusses arrive.




August 29, 2004 - Trusses are up. Notice nice big oil stain from crane guy's leaky crane...wasn't happy about that but oh well.




August 29, 2004 - Another shot of the garage.




August 29, 2004 - Opposite corner of garage.

[snorvet]

bmw - great garage!

[BoostAddiction]

Don't stop now- show us the rest!

-Will

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by BoostAddiction

Don't stop now- show us the rest!

-Will

Thanks guys. I'm trying to add things when I have time. I've had 3 kids since this project kicked off and, boy, does that affect my availability. I still have to go through a bunch of picts. Don't worry, we'll get to the finished product pretty soon!

[shopking68]

wow thats looking sweet, and very tall

[hotrod66paul]

WOW you had three kids. I thought about it but decided to let the wife have them instead. Worked out for the better that way.
Enough of my sick humor, its time for some more current pictures.

[mleichtle]

Finally, I've been reading about this project since you started over at the self help forum. Keep 'em coming.

[cdrewferd]

Looks good, now where are the rest?

[joecaver]

I'm looking forward to seeing what you did with all that ceiling height. Looking good so far.

[LOWCAD]

I cant explain how jealous i am, wish i had the land to build a big garage like that. Looking awesome man!

[bmwpower]

When we were done building the house, I started working on the interior layout. I knew I wanted Lista cabinets. In several of my previous jobs, I had used Lista cabinets, but never really knew anything about them until I started designing/researching my garage. After doing a lot of reseach on cabinets, I decided to buy a used Lista cabinet off of eBay to house my current tool setup. I was really amazed at how well they were constructed and how (relatively) affordable they were when compared to other higher end cabinets

While doing cabinet research online, I came across a gentleman who happened to be a dealer for Lista. I inquired about wanting to purchase several cabinets from him. He was really friendly and offered to help in the design of the cabinet layout. I already had a general idea of what I wanted, but he helped me fine tune the design using his knowledge of Lista stuff. This helped out greatly as I quickly found out that not everything Lista is in the catalog...you can customize just about anything they offer.

Eight months later and a LOT of emails back and forth, the final design was developed. See the final layout below. What you don't see are the Lista upper cabinets in this design (more on this later).

Final garage layout - Lista cabinets, 2 post lift, etc.





Final garage layout with electrical - Drawing this out help me a TON when wiring the garage. Without this drawing I think I would have gone crazy. Keep in mind this was my first real wiring job so I needed a lot of reference.




The big reason for the 14'3" ceiling height was that fact that I knew I wanted 3 things: (1) metal halide low bay lights, (2) a 2 post lift and (3) a garage that complimented the height of my house. Luckily I came across 12 used low bay GE metal halide lights at an auction for around $120 total. Granted they were used, but I tested them out and all but one worked. These lights usually go for a couple hundred dollars each, so I think I got a good deal. When you add the height of a 2 post lift (~12 feet) and metal halide lights (~2 feet), you get 14 feet, hence the reason for my ceiling height. I wanted no restrictions on height anywhere within the garage. I also wanted no restrictions as to where I could place the lights. With this ceiling height, I could place everything where I wanted it and not have problems.

I used Visual lighting software (free demo) to design the layout and to maximize coverage throughout the garage. Check it out at www.visuallightingsoftware.com. This is the same software that Griot's Garage uses to figure out how many of their fixtures you would need to purchase. I know this because I priced out their metal halide fixtures and the design they gave me was a direct print out from the Visual software. Unfortunately, their design and lights came to over $2000+.

GE low bay metal halide lights - 9 total, 175 watts each running @ 240v, average of 55 footcandles at 30" working height.

[bmwpower]

If you've ordered from Lista within the past couple of years, you've probably had to deal with their (quite frequent, in my opinion) price increases. When I designed my plan, I knew of several big price increases coming up. I decided to order my cabinets as soon as possible to avoid these increases (at the time , the price increase would have amounted to about $1000). The big task was trying to convince the wife that ordering a significant amount of expensive cabinets PRIOR to finishing the garage was a good idea. She agreed it was the best thing to do, so I placed the order with a pickup date of September 1, 2004.

Yes, that's right a pickup date, not a ship date. Having the cabinets shipped would have cost me well over $1200. Being relatively close to Lista, I decided it would more economical to pickup the cabinets at the factory. Indeed it was. One day rental of a 24 foot Ryder truck was several hundred dollars, plus gas, etc. came to less than $500 total. I ended up saving ~$700 by picking them up myself with the help of a friend.


September 1, 2004 - Pickup the cabinets at Lista using a 24 foot Ryder truck. Left at 7AM, returned to NJ at 10PM that night.

[joecaver]

I am very impressed with the amount of planning you have done and the attention to detail. You should end up with a garage that will be the envy of us all. Kudos to you.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by mleichtle

Finally, I've been reading about this project since you started over at the self help forum. Keep 'em coming.

Wow, I didn't know you were a member. That place helped me get through building the garage, mainly electrical. More on the way...

[DStewart]

Looking good, can't wait to see more. Really want to see the cabinets.............

[bmwpower]

September 25, 2004 - Roof goes on. These were some quick workers. Finished the entire roof in about 4 hours.




October 11, 2004 - Siding starts to go up.




November, 6, 2004 - Plumbing is roughed in - water supply, sink drain. Conduit for 100A feed, Cat6 ethernet, phone, CATV, security get roughed in. I feel energetic so I decide to dig the trench for the power...by hand...took me all day.






November 27, 2004 - Stone is done being compacted, in layers, to total height of 6 inches

[bmwpower]

November 28, 2004 - 6mil vapor barrier is installed (Vapor Block 6). Rebar stakes set for final floor height of 8 inches. Mix is 4000psi with fiber. Mason thought I was crazy pouring so thick.












February 6, 2005 - Rough electrical is just about done. 100A SquareD QO subpanel.




February 6, 2005 - Siding has since been completed.




June 9, 2005 - HVAC installed. Gas forced heat/air system in attic. 100Btu/2.5 ton system.




July 2, 2005 - Insulation is complete. Scaffold came in real handy.




July 3, 2005 - Sheetrock starts to go up with the help of a Genie lift. Rock is 5/8" firecode on ceiling and walls.

[bmwpower]

October 7, 2005 - Spackling is just about done. Ledge on block wall was rocked out to give it a cleaner look.




October 15, 2005 - Everything is masked off and sprayed using Sherwin Williams products (primer and semigloss topcoat). Sprayer was a lower end Graco model.




November 25, 2005 - Walls have been protected with plastic...preparing for an epoxy floor. I rented an Edco conrete grinder to grind down the trowel marks/imperfections on the floor. I also rented a laser level to make sure critical areas of the floor were level.








November 26, 2005 - Grinder takes off a good amount of the top layer to make things smoother - I get a pile of dust per pass in return (tape measure for scale). I made 8 passes total. Floor is subsequently rinsed and broomed to get the remainder of the dust off. Then I rented a floor scrubber/polisher (not shown) and used black abrasive pads to get some overspray off the floor. The scrubber also did a great job of getting the remainder of the dust off the floor. I scrubbed until no more "cream" came off the floor. All of this was followed up by 2 passes of acid etching, including the block wall. I rinsed everything probably a half dozen times after the acid....then let it dry for a couple weeks.








December 11, 2005 - PrepRite Block Filler from Sherwin Williams is used to prime the cinderblock and help fill any voids. Cinderblock will get coated with epoxy.




December 16, 2005 - Small cracks in floor get coated with Rustoleum EpoxyShield Concrete Patch and Repair.

[bmwpower]

December 17, 2005 - Floor is ready for epoxy. First coat of Sherwin Williams ArmorSeal 1000 HS is put down. Small section of cinderblock is tested for compatibility. Window fan used for fume exhaust...note towel over exterior of window. This is done in an effort to keep cold air from entering the window once the fan shuts down. Keep in mind, this whole process was being done in the coldest month of the year. Not my ideal situation, but I needed to get things done before spring.








December 23, 2005 - 3rd coat of ArmorSeal is put down, another to follow after this. - 4 coats total.




January 13, 2006 - My poor Lista cabinets have sat, lonely and unused in my attached garage since I purchased them...Time to move them out!!

[bmwpower]

January 13, 2006 - I finally get to move my Lista cabinets into the new garage... the only problem is how do I move them? Answer: Ryder truck and a pallet jack. I rented a truck for a day, loaded it up and moved the cabinets into place with a pallet jack. This turned out to work really well.








January 14, 2006 - Cabinets are placed into position. Things are starting to take shape. My years of planning appears to be paying off.






January 20, 2006 - Upper cabinets are installed. I'm finally starting to see my theoretical plan take shape.






February 19, 2006 - BoostAddiction (Will) convinces me it can be done, so I install a stainless commercial sink in my Lista sink base. Temporary wood top is fabricated to enable final plumbing installation underneath (hot water heater, sink drain, etc.). I finally get a chance to use my garage for some needed maintenace... and who's car gets in first? My friend's Cobra, of course....geez.

[bmwpower]

April 19, 2006 - Still trying to juggle getting the garage entirely finished. One of the items on my to do list is door/window trim. I had my friend make up some rosettes for the corners of my windows/door...still awaiting installation.

[supercharged]

dang,, looking quite nice..

[joecaver]

As I was scrolling through your pictures and reading the story I found myself cheering you on. What a great garage. I know you have got to be loving it.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by joecaver

As I was scrolling through your pictures and reading the story I found myself cheering you on. What a great garage. I know you have got to be loving it.

Hey, thanks for the kind words, Joe. I am loving it. I don't know how I lived without it.

[krooser]

Now don't let your wife talk you into moving.....

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by krooser

Now don't let your wife talk you into moving.....

Never. She's convinced we're gonna die in this place.

[mangomadness]

WOW! great Job! You really pay attention to detail that is excellent!! Enjoy!

[Wardrum]

Awesome garage BMW!!!!

......but you just gotta do something about those cardboard countertops

[BoostAddiction]

The garage is great!

I assume that the center upper piece is for a computer monitor? Or is it- it looks kind of high for that. Can you elaborate?

The cars are parked on what looks like masonite- is that to catch drips? Or just protect the floor more early on?

Did you do anything about organizing the drawers? Pics are always welcome!

Finally, did you find that the number of smaller drawers you spec'd was adequate for your needs? In my own garage, I find that, even though I changed the drawer mix to include more smaller drawers, I still would trade one or two of the deeper ones for a few more smaller ones. Nearly everything I have can be fit in a 2 or 3 inch drawer.

-Will

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Wardrum

Awesome garage BMW!!!!

......but you just gotta do something about those cardboard countertops

Yea, I know...don't remind me. The countertops I want cost some $$ and I'm not sure if I want them or a lift next.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by BoostAddiction

The garage is great!

I assume that the center upper piece is for a computer monitor? Or is it- it looks kind of high for that. Can you elaborate?

Sure. The upper cabinet is a short SC cabinet with a hinged plexi door. The cabinet will hold the stereo and the TV. I'm looking to getting an LCD TV on a articulated arm so I can pull it out and direct the TV depending on where I'm working. I'm also considering a Media Center PC instead of the LCD TV, since TVs can be pricey and I could probably use one of my existing PCs and LCD monitors for the setup (I'd have to buy a new video card, but still).

The reason for the plexi door is (1) to keep dirt/dust out of the components yet (2) still control the components via remote and (3) to lock it up when I'm not around. I wasn't sure if I wanted to set it up for use with the door closed since I will need to install a fan in the rear of the cabinet to keep the stuff from overheating.

Originally Posted by BoostAddiction

The cars are parked on what looks like masonite- is that to catch drips? Or just protect the floor more early on?

That's masonite/hardboard. I bought it mainly because after 1-1/2 months of work on the floor, I was afraid I was going to mess it up when I brought in the cabinets on pallets with the palletjack. I'm using it now just to catch crap from falling on the floor, etc. I'm going to save it for when they install the lift, too, since I'm not totally convinced the installers will be as careful with the floor as I have been. After the lift is in, I will probably get rid of it since, if stuff gets underneath it, it tends to stain the floor.

Originally Posted by BoostAddiction

Did you do anything about organizing the drawers? Pics are always welcome!

Nothing major yet, but I have a good idea what is going where. I bought all of my cabinets without dividers, which not only saved me money, but left me time to decide how I want things organized. Not sure what's going in the upper cabinets...probably cleaners, filters, etc. What's not obviously pictured is my mobile cabinet (however it's in the pict with the cars). It currently houses all of my main tools and will be used to move around for area specific jobs.

Originally Posted by BoostAddiction

Finally, did you find that the number of smaller drawers you spec'd was adequate for your needs? In my own garage, I find that, even though I changed the drawer mix to include more smaller drawers, I still would trade one or two of the deeper ones for a few more smaller ones. Nearly everything I have can be fit in a 2 or 3 inch drawer.

-Will

I definitely overbought for what I currently have. I plan on getting heavily into tool collecting so I planned for the future. I figured most of my stuff will not need to be in a deep drawer - ie, wrenches, sockets, ratchets, screwdrivers, pliers, etc. I supplimented the smaller drawers with bigger drawers in each cabinet at the bottom just in case I had a few bigger things.

The whole design stems from the fact that I can't stand clutter. I come from a family that constantly lived around clutter. I vowed I would no longer live like the rest of my family. If everything works out well, you won't see anything in plain sight in my garage. I plan on putting everything either in a cabinet or drawer.

[bmwpower]

After much debate, I ordered a Rotary SP010 symmetrical lift for the garage today from SAR Automotive Equipment. 10K lb. capacity, flip up adapters plus auxillary rubber adapters. Installation will occur on June 30th. I can't wait.

[Winmon]

Very cool! Make sure to post some pics! That is pretty quick delivery...

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Winmon

Very cool! Make sure to post some pics! That is pretty quick delivery...

That's the plan. Yea, this place is well stocked. I took a look in their warehouse some time ago and from floor to ceiling was nothing but prepackaged lifts. If it wasn't for the busy season, he said he could have done it even sooner.

[3/4tonYJ]

Very nice garage build...........

i like the attention to detail, i found myself just staring at the "insulation" picture, thats where my garage build is currently stalled.

can't wait to see the lift install......

[Wile1Coyote]

Really really came together while I was on my Garage Junkies vacation BMW. Looking forward to seeing more pics.

All of your hard work for the last year really really shows!

[Chevy Guy]

Looking good!! NJ construction officials can be really ball breakers huh - Just curious, I'm in NJ also - Somerset County, can I am just starting to look into getting a 2 1/2 or 3 car garage built, any reco's you can give on contractors or ways to research? What was the general cost of your build (structure only)? I'm not going to go as high as you but it would give me a general idea.


Thanks!!

[bmwpower]

If I had to guess, I'd say around 12-15K for structure only, but that's merely a guess. Someday I will pull all the numbers and see where the tally lies.

I know how much I started with and I know how much I have now...not pretty.

I can't help with contractors since we did most of the work. I can help with subs for plumbing, HVAC, gutters, roofing, insulation, but I don't know how far they travel. I can't recommend my mason.

[bmwpower]

June 23, 2006 - Lift install

The installation got moved up today due to a cancellation on SAR's end. Took them 2 hours 15 minutes to install. These guys did a great job...and quickly.

To get the lift off the truck, one guy pulled it out of the truck enough to sit it one end on the truck, one end on a dolly. To avoid scratching the floor they moved everything around on the dolly.

To position each post, they sat the bottom end down on the ground near where it was going to be installed. Then, they both grabbed the top and walked it straight up. Pretty amazing. I would have shot some pictures of them walking it up, but I was too scared to not be on standby in case they needed help.

[94Vette]

Wow, that place is NICE! You have clearly put a lot of thought into this.

Very nice.

[SuperKid]

That looks great! I bet you're looking forward to using it!

[bmwpower]

Yea, 94Vette, I've probably put too much thought into the whole project. So much so, the wife is close to filing for divorce.

SuperKid, I'm dying to use it. I just got done hooking up the power. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have a chance to pickup a car.

[DynoDave]

Very cool! Let us know how you like it (as if there were any question....)

[AHotRod]

Very nice shop, glad to see you making progress !

[dre2142]

Wow....Lista cabinets are awesome. Can just imagine how much that all cost.

[SuperKid]

BMW, any updates? Such as the lift in use pictures?

[bmwpower]

I'll see if I can snap some in use picts tonight.

I did get a pretty cool fridge for the garage. I snap some of that, too.

[bmwpower]

June 30, 2006 - Refrigerator install

I looked high and low for a affordable undercounter fridge that would fit in the space I needed, height and width,. I ended up buying a Summit FF7BSSTB at a local dealer.

[bmwpower]

Lift...in use

Here's couple of shots of my car and my friend's on the lift. The M is a little tough to get lined up just right so that the arms can hit the pickup points, but I think I have it down. The M is sitting at max height, on lock.

For install pictures, see the previous page (I updated it).

[SuperKid]

Wow, that looks great! One thing I'd recommend, is to put the lifting pads completely perpendicular to the frame. That way there is more room for the car to move should it begine to slide from side to side for any reason.

Again, shop looks great! Enjoy it!

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by SuperKid

Wow, that looks great! One thing I'd recommend, is to put the lifting pads completely perpendicular to the frame. That way there is more room for the car to move should it begine to slide from side to side for any reason.

Again, shop looks great! Enjoy it!

That makes perfect sense...the only problem was that no matter what I did, I just could not hit the front pickup points. I even pulled the car up a bit off of the middle of the alignment plate in an attempt to get to the front pickups, but I was not able to for whatever reason. If I put the pad perpendicular, the car would be sitting on the arm tube (farther up the arm). Either I'm doing something wrong or the lift isn't made to pickup this car like the guy said it was. Hopefully, the former.

The other problem is there is little room to hit the pickup. If I let the pad hang too far towards the middle of the car, it looks like it will hit some stuff. I had no problem picking up my 5 series, but it has pinch welds, so the pickups are a little farther out from center.

Thanks for the nice comments! More to come....it ain't done just yet...

[JohnZ]

Beautiful garage, cabinets to die for, and great documentation of the project - congratulations!

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by JohnZ

Beautiful garage, cabinets to die for, and great documentation of the project - congratulations!

Thanks, John. More coming soon. I'm picking up the tops next Friday! The end is closing near....

[66RICH]

Great planning, amazing shop!! Love the details like the ledge on the
blocks, lighting, and the door tracks. The lift color matches the cabinets!
Did this influence the color selection for the cabinets? Great job!
Rich

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by 66RICH

Great planning, amazing shop!! Love the details like the ledge on the
blocks, lighting, and the door tracks. The lift color matches the cabinets!
Did this influence the color selection for the cabinets? Great job!
Rich

No influence on the color. I always wanted "Bright Blue" cabinets ever since I first saw them. A classic Lista color, IMHO. Just turns out that the lift was blue, too. I also have a blue engine crane. I guess I like blue somewhat, but everything except the cabinets was the default color choice.

Thanks for the comments!

[cdrewferd]

Very good looking garage. Major props to sticking to what you wanted and not compromising.

[RogerQ]

I have ordered Lista Cabinets and a Rotary lift. Delivery happens the 8/31. Any advice on setting them up? I have an installer for the lift.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by RogerQ

I have ordered Lista Cabinets and a Rotary lift. Delivery happens the 8/31. Any advice on setting them up? I have an installer for the lift.

When the cabinets arrive, make sure everything you ordered is there and in perfect condition. When my order came, I was missing some drawer boxes, but I didn't find out until 1-1/2 years later when I actually unboxed everything. Lista has a strict policy with missing/damaged stuff in that you have to notify them within a certain amount of time after the order arrives (I think 15 days).

Did you order your cabinets with fork/pallet truck bases? If so, moving them around will be easier since you can rent a pallet jack and jack them into position. I didn't order any bases to save moeny, but when it came time to move things into place, it was a little harder since I had to get a friend to tilt the cabinet while I pushed the pallet jack under the cabinet. Definitely use a pallet jack either way though - much easier than anything I could think of.

How are the cabinets going to be laid out? Side to side? Lista makes hardware kits to bolt cabinets that are side to side for better stability. These kits need to be ordered/requested since they do not come with the cabinets by default.

[bmwpower]

August 4th, 2006 - The tops are picked up and the Sub takes a hit for the team

Silly me decides to pickup the stainless over wood tops I ordered from the factory in Holliston, MA to save on shipping and to avoid the hassle of having to deal with damaged tops during shipment. Well, I get there and it turns out the custom sized tops I ordered were of the wrong size! I even had Lista double check the sizes before I left to make sure the sizes I ordered were the exact sizes that were made. My design is a built-in design, so the tops have to fit just right or it throws everything else off.

According to Lista, when they make these tops the wood CORES are cut to the specs you provide and then the stainless is wrapped over it. You can see the dilemma in this method. I think I'm getting a top that is 28-1/2" x 88-1/2" when in fact I'm getting a top that is at least 28-11/16" x 88-11/16" - a big problem if your design calls for built-in tops. No one told me this was the case.

The good news is that I talked to a customer support person while I was there who was quite helpful. At the time I didn't realize that all the tops were going to be problematic. I only thought the one top that extends into the middle of the garage would be a problem since it has to be the same depth of the cabinet (28-1/2"). If it's not the same depth, you will see obvious overhang, not to mention it will push the top butting up to it to the right. In any event, I told her I'd be willing to take the tops and "try them out" to see if I have any issues as long as Lista would ship me out new ones on their dime. She agreed. Well, I didn't realize until I got home how many issues I would have.

See picts for some of them:
- All dimensions are larger by 3/16 to 1/4"
- And if that wasn't enough, one top has a different finish than the others. It looks like a mirror finish instead of a brushed stainless finish. I like the brushed finish better since it looks like it will hide scratches better. Not a deal breaker, but worth mentioning.








To top it off, I got in an accident on the way back. My Dad's Suburban took a hard hit in the rear from some old guy not paying attention. My friend and I are okay, but a little sore. The Sub is not so good. The hit bent the frame and just about every other piece of metal/plastic on the back of the truck. One thing is for sure, the tops are definitely made very well. Even though the truck took a hit and pushed the rear doors in by a good couple inches, the tops withstood any damage - the rear doors just bent around the tops!

Overall, this past Friday is one I'd like to forget...

[Elky]

wow..that sucks man.
on both the tops and the accident.
glad to hear you are alright.

the mirror top confused me when i saw the pic.
haha
i couldn't quite figure out what i was looking at.

[nova65ss]

That's a schweeet garage, I didn't think it could get any better until I saw the stainless tops. Hats off to ya on the thought and time that went into your planning.

Jimmy

[73survivor]

Great looking garage! Did you use any rebar or wire mesh in the concrete floor? How do you like the vapor barrier? Does it work? How did you keep from puncturing it when you poured the concrete?

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by 73survivor

Great looking garage! Did you use any rebar or wire mesh in the concrete floor? How do you like the vapor barrier? Does it work? How did you keep from puncturing it when you poured the concrete?

Originally Posted by nova65ss

That's a schweeet garage, I didn't think it could get any better until I saw the stainless tops. Hats off to ya on the thought and time that went into your planning.

Originally Posted by Elky

wow..that sucks man.
on both the tops and the accident.
glad to hear you are alright.

the mirror top confused me when i saw the pic.
haha
i couldn't quite figure out what i was looking at.

Thanks guys!

No rebar or wire in the floor, only fiber mesh.

I really liked the vapor barrier. I couldn't find anything worth buying around here, so I had to get something off the web. This stuff held up well to wheelbarrows and less-than-careful masons before the pour. The key to avoiding punctures is to get a barrier that has a high puncture resistance. The clear plastic they sell at Home Depot can't hold up to the better vapor barriers. As a test I tried to puncture a piece of the barrier with a nail. It took a good amount of force to pierce the barrier. A good barrier will stretch around the object and not break.

So far it seems to work. I never tested the vapor transmission.

[IdahoJoe]

What's the brand and where did you get it? I'm getting ready to pour a 42x60 slab and need a good vapor barrier up here in the NW where we are under water for 9 months out of the year.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by IdahoJoe

What's the brand and where did you get it? I'm getting ready to pour a 42x60 slab and need a good vapor barrier up here in the NW where we are under water for 9 months out of the year.

http://www.ravenind.com/RavenCorpora...aporblock.html

Buy it here:
http://www.buyplasticnow.com/index.a...PROD&ProdID=12

[Toolmaann]

Many years of careful consideration and preperation...many years of enjoyable use...

Enjoy yor new "Men's Den", it's bitchin'

[scarabboy]

Originally Posted by Toolmaann

Many years of careful consideration and preperation...many years of enjoyable use...

Enjoy yor new "Men's Den", it's bitchin'

Beautiful...what the size of this shop..ive read and maybe im blind but i thought i only seen the height

[bmwpower]

Thanks guys.

It's a 30x30.

[ultgar]

[quote=bmwpowerSilly me decides to pickup the stainless over wood tops I ordered from the factory in Holliston, MA to save on shipping and to avoid the hassle of having to deal with damaged tops during shipment. [/QUOTE]

This is why I use local fabricators to do the installs when it comes to stainless tops on Lista cabinets.

I installed a few cabinets today and have asked the client to hire a local countertop guy do the tops. With a 3hr drive (3 1/2hrs today in the rain) to get to this job from my house, I can't afford to risk the problems you've encountered with your tops from Lista.

I also went with a Rotary lift on this job....the cassette is in the floor and the local dealer will come back to finish the installation in the next few weeks. I've been recommending Rotary lifts (even over the Nussbaum units I sell) because there are plenty of dealers around the country to make sure the units get delivered, installed and serviced properly.SD

[enginerd]

Originally Posted by ultgar

I also went with a Rotary lift on this job....the cassette is in the floor and the local dealer will come back to finish the installation in the next few weeks. I've been recommending Rotary lifts (even over the Nussbaum units I sell) because there are plenty of dealers around the country to make sure the units get delivered, installed and serviced properly.SD

Steve, who is the best rotary lift dealer/installer you know of for Northern NJ?

[ultgar]

Originally Posted by enginerd

Steve, who is the best rotary lift dealer/installer you know of for Northern NJ?

Where are you in Northern NJ? Saw you post about HID lights from a friends company....Dave Finch? SD

[enginerd]

Originally Posted by ultgar

Where are you in Northern NJ? Saw you post about HID lights from a friends company....Dave Finch? SD

Check your PM, might be easier to budding into this thread.

[benjacobs]

I too, wonder what you're going to do with all that ceiling space. You could put an apartment up there, or a loft for hanging out. Of course, it would also be nice for clutter storage. Then again, you could just leave it alone and enjoy the high ceilings. Whatever you decide, you've got yourself one nice garage. Great job on the build!

[bmwpower]

Tuesday, September 19th

Well.. I finally got the replacement tops and they're the proper size this time.

*Flashback*....Since the original problem, I've been trying to get Lista to pay for me to come back up and pickup the new tops. At the same time, I was going to drop off the old tops. Good deal for Lista, right? Well, I've been talking to a host of people at Lista to try to work things out. Last conversation I had with Lista late last week was that they were going to pay me to come back up. Goodie.

So, I get a call from my wife yesterday while I'm at work telling me that a guy is at the house dropping off the tops now. Oh, and he needs help taking the tops off the truck. What?!? In Lista's ever-increasing lack of communication in their back office, someone I guess decided I wanted the tops shipped. So instead of going on my business trip to NYC, I had to turn around and come back and make sure things were okay. Joy. Turns out the tops were okay, except for the edge on the biggest top which was banged in a little. I put that side to the back. Finally.

If I had a top complaint of Lista (cause I have several), it would be they are very unorganized. You have to stay on top of them all the time. And even then, things can happen.

All-in-all, I'm very happy with the product.

Oh...picts...Well I'm out of town at the moment. I'll post final picts when I return....

[86swb]

Yes, don't let us down. You start on your garage and three kids later you are getting close to finish it. Wow! Waited a little longer and you would have had plenty of help. Looking good.

[Xtreme Graphics]

Very, very impressive. Thanks for all the work sharing this garage.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by 86swb

Yes, don't let us down. You start on your garage and three kids later you are getting close to finish it. Wow! Waited a little longer and you would have had plenty of help. Looking good.

Yea, I know. I'm fooling around trying to get my truck back on the road while at the same time trying to get my tops and cabinets all shimmed up. Hopefully soon I will have it FULLY completed.

[thefairlaneman]

Great. I wonder if you have a security system in the plan ? I sujest one that will let you know via a "silent alarm" so if and when the thieves come they wont leave with your stuff. I sujest this because you garage is a distance from the home. Just a sujestion

[enginerd]

Another cheap idea to couple with a silent/remote alarm is a wireless networked camera, http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Wirele.../dp/B0002V8KW2 Can get a phone call while 3000 miles away and go on your mobile device and take a look for yourself

[bmwpower]

Tuesday, November 7th, 2006 - Stainless top installation complete, sink install

After finally getting the all the cabinets re-shimmed with stainless shims, I was able to complete the stainless countertop installation. All the tops are lag bolted to the cabinets and to the wall, where appropriate. The cabinets that are side-by-side are bolted together. The center peninsula is lagged to the floor to prevent it from shifting.

The only thing I would still like to do is to seal the space between the bottom of the cabinets and the floor. Due to slab curl, the outside edges of the slab are slightly higher than the middle of the floor in some areas. It sounds like some sort of hydraulic cement will do the trick.
















I cutout a hole for the stainless commercial sink I purchased a while ago. That was fun. I went through a total of 6 jigsaw blades. It took a while, but I think it came out great. Now I'm trying to figure out what I can use the cutout piece for. I hate to trash it... Anyway here's the sink back in place again. I ended up caulking the rim with silicone to hold it inplace.




Getting close to the end of this project....

[screwTheMan]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

Tuesday, November 7th, 2006 - Stainless top installation complete, sink install

Getting close to the end of this project....

Looking good. It looks like a operating room. In a GOOD way.

[DynoDave]

Those cabinets/tops came out beautifully! Congratulations!

[OldCarGuy]

Elegance is much like beauty,, difficult to describe; but easy to recognize. The contrast between the stainless steel tops and the blue cabinetry is outstanding and compliments the gray floor. Lista is “Top Shelf‘,, a quality product that will give you years of satisfaction. Well done BMWPower!

[JMURiz]

Drool-worthy for sure, looks amazing!

[BoostAddiction]

The stainless sink in stainless tops looks really sharp!

Good job on the install. I ended up using silicone around the sink I installed as well and recently had to remove it to install a new faucet. The old stuff came off well and the sink came out pretty easily. Re-installed with new silicone and it is still solid and leakproof.

Your setup reminds me strongly of the cabinet setups I see at Roger Penske-owned dealerships, except you used the broader Lista line for cabinets. Yours really looks great!

-Will

[sharpshooter]

OMG I hate you................great looking garage

[jhchoppers]

Great JOB... Well planned and executed, the entire shop build looks awesome.

[Down Under Bloke]

Congratulations, well done,

What you have achieved is an inspiration and guide to me and many other blokes I’m sure.

BTW how the engine change in the F truck going.

[nova65ss]

Dude your garage is amazing! I don't believe I've seen one better thought out. Like someone else said it looks clean and neat enough to be in a hospital. Job very well done.

Jimmy

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Down Under Bloke

Congratulations, well done,

What you have achieved is an inspiration and guide to me and many other blokes I’m sure.

BTW how the engine change in the F truck going.

Thanks! I could only hope some of my info could help others.

Engine change is going....slow. Hopefully I will be picking up a used engine this weekend. If that falls through, I'm probably going to rebuild mine.

[TNToy]

You can always make a clock out of the cutout, or something similar.

If you have the equipment to weld SS (I forget if you've got a TIG in your shop or if that was someone else) I'm sure one of your vehicles will need a battery box/tray, or something along those lines eventually.

[shopking68]

wow, i wish i was rich and could get those fancy cabinets

[Wardrum]

I noticed in the pics that at least some of your cabinet sides have holes in them. Some of my Lista cabinets do too while others do not. I don't understand that. It sure would be nice if Lista would leave punch-outs there like they do on the cabinet tops. I understand that the holes are there primarily so that the cabinets can be bolted together but, IMO, the holes make the exposed sides of the cabinets look bad. I would rather punch out the holes if necessary.

You have done a super job in designing and completing your shop to this point. It would be interesting to see what you are going to keep in all those drawers.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by shopking68

wow, i wish i was rich and could get those fancy cabinets

I am, by no means, rich. Just saved my money for a while to buy exactly what I wanted...

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Wardrum

I noticed in the pics that at least some of your cabinet sides have holes in them. Some of my Lista cabinets do too while others do not. I don't understand that. It sure would be nice if Lista would leave punch-outs there like they do on the cabinet tops. I understand that the holes are there primarily so that the cabinets can be bolted together but, IMO, the holes make the exposed sides of the cabinets look bad. I would rather punch out the holes if necessary.

You have done a super job in designing and completing your shop to this point. It would be interesting to see what you are going to keep in all those drawers.

Yea, you're right, they kinda look strange. The holes on the topside are NOT punched out. I think it adds to the industrial look of the product. I wonder if they make caps for the holes?

I've seen some people cover the side of the cabinet with a stainless sheet or something, but I think that looks worse.

As far what I'm going to put in them...Christmas is around the bend. Now I know what I can tell everyone to get me for Christmas, birthdays, etc. I have a bunch of other tools that have been waiting for a home.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by screwTheMan

Looking good. It looks like a operating room. In a GOOD way.

Originally Posted by DynoDave

Those cabinets/tops came out beautifully! Congratulations!

Originally Posted by OldCarGuy

Elegance is much like beauty,, difficult to describe; but easy to recognize. The contrast between the stainless steel tops and the blue cabinetry is outstanding and compliments the gray floor. Lista is “Top Shelf‘,, a quality product that will give you years of satisfaction. Well done BMWPower!

Originally Posted by JMURiz

Drool-worthy for sure, looks amazing!

Originally Posted by BoostAddiction

The stainless sink in stainless tops looks really sharp!

Good job on the install. I ended up using silicone around the sink I installed as well and recently had to remove it to install a new faucet. The old stuff came off well and the sink came out pretty easily. Re-installed with new silicone and it is still solid and leakproof.

Your setup reminds me strongly of the cabinet setups I see at Roger Penske-owned dealerships, except you used the broader Lista line for cabinets. Yours really looks great!

-Will

Originally Posted by sharpshooter

OMG I hate you................great looking garage

Originally Posted by jhchoppers

Great JOB... Well planned and executed, the entire shop build looks awesome.

Thanks! You guys are great. Thanks for all the nice compliments.

[Winmon]

Those Lista's sure do turn a nice shop into a AMAZING shop! Your execution from start to finsh shows how well planned out you were from the beginning.
You have yourself a shop that ANYONE would be proud to own!

[snorvet]

Excellent garage! I showed my wife the pics and she likes that the cabinet color matches your truck

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by snorvet

Excellent garage! I showed my wife the pics and she likes that the cabinet color matches your truck

That's funny. That obviously wasn't planned, but maybe it was fate...I dunno. I'm finding myself buying a lot of blue things lately...

[DynoDave]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

That's funny. That obviously wasn't planned, but maybe it was fate...I dunno. I'm finding myself buying a lot of blue things lately...

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by DynoDave

<insert smurf here>

Ha ha. Surprisingly, I HATE the Smurfs.

[Down Under Bloke]

The Lista cabinets do seem to match the blue in the BMW logo

[DynoDave]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

Ha ha. Surprisingly, I HATE the Smurfs.

Sorry buddy, I just couldn't help myself! You know we are all just jealeous of those beautiful cabinets.

[Kapt]

Nice job!!

Do you have any pics of the garage door tracks where the bottom of the wall meets the top of the cinderblock? It looks like I have the same wall/block setup as you and I'm having trouble visualizing how my garage door tracks will run.
Do your garage doors run in between your block or slightly behind it when the door is closed? Mine will have to run slightly behind them, but with the wall and block not in the same plane I was thinking I might have to build my wall out about 4 inches.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Kapt

Nice job!!

Do you have any pics of the garage door tracks where the bottom of the wall meets the top of the cinderblock? It looks like I have the same wall/block setup as you and I'm having trouble visualizing how my garage door tracks will run.
Do your garage doors run in between your block or slightly behind it when the door is closed? Mine will have to run slightly behind them, but with the wall and block not in the same plane I was thinking I might have to build my wall out about 4 inches.

The bottom of my brackets are cut off where the wall meets the block. The track continues down to the floor behind and to the side of the block.

I have the same thing on the 2 doors attached to my house.

I believe the brackets are attached to 2- 2x4's nailed together running up the wall on each side.

If you need picts, let me know. I think I might have some somewhere...

[Kapt]

If it's not too much trouble, pics would be greatly appreciated.
TIA.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Kapt

If it's not too much trouble, pics would be greatly appreciated.
TIA.

Hope these help!





Top of wall is capped with 2x4's and rocked to get a flush finish. Tracks are bolted to 2 - 2x4's (flat) with 1/8" hardboard in between to get the proper thickness. These were nailed to the studs prior to sheetrocking.

[bmwpower]

In response to Craig G's inquiry...no, my garage is not always clean. Took this photo tonight. It's an utter mess in there. Yes, I do work in the garage.

[Kapt]

Thanks for the pics, that clears things up alot.

[OldCarGuy]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

In response to Craig G's inquiry...no, my garage is not always clean. Took this photo tonight. It's an utter mess in there. Yes, I do work in the garage.

I know what you’ll be doing tonight!

[REFLEXX]

It's staged. That's clearly a photoshopped mess. : )

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by REFLEXX

It's staged. That's clearly a photoshopped mess. : )

I wish it was.

My friend came over last night to work on his truck and he almost fell over. He told me, "...and I was afraid to get anything on the floor when my truck was in here?".

Thank God for the epoxy. The few places I had to wipe things up, it came up as new.

[DynoDave]

Oh, I like the messy shop pictures. I was starting to feel like a mere mortal by comparison.

[Silver Lexus]

Amazing garage bmwpower!

One thing I can comment on is the idea of stainless steel bench tops. They work surprisingly well. I got a food prep table from Sam's and it has held up quite well.

[Down Under Bloke]

WOW

You go away for a couple of days and look what happens; I didn't believe it when i started reading this thread backwards. Mess, bmwpower surely not; yep its true.

Seems a shame to put all the crap back on, the Windsor when a dual plane 4BL and 650DP could do much the same thing.

[firsttime]

Holy cow, that is an amazing garage. Great job on all the work you've done from ground-up. It looks like you'd be enjoying that for many many years to come!

[ersatzs2]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

After finally getting the all the cabinets re-shimmed with stainless shims, I was able to complete the stainless countertop installation.

So now that you've lived with the stainless tops for a while; how do you like them? I think I'm going to bite the bullet and place my lista order after Christmas. My rep has been selling lista a long time (Curt Hague, out of PA) to lots of shops, and he is really pushing maple instead of stainless. Me, I think about taking apart a trans on butcher block and it doesn't seem right. But he argues stainless is hard to keep clean, dents, etc. So how do you like it?

[RAYJAY]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

In response to Craig G's inquiry...no, my garage is not always clean. Took this photo tonight. It's an utter mess in there. Yes, I do work in the garage.

lol my wife would freak out at the all the doors left open, and its great to see your realy using the shop.

Jeff

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by ersatzs2

So now that you've lived with the stainless tops for a while; how do you like them? I think I'm going to bite the bullet and place my lista order after Christmas. My rep has been selling lista a long time (Curt Hague, out of PA) to lots of shops, and he is really pushing maple instead of stainless. Me, I think about taking apart a trans on butcher block and it doesn't seem right. But he argues stainless is hard to keep clean, dents, etc. So how do you like it?

So far, I love it. No real complaints. As long as you're not going to be anal about scratches, you should be fine. It does scratch easily, but again, it's easy to see since the beginning surface is virtually a mirror finish. I haven't tried to wail on it and I don't plan to, although I have banged on it a little with no damages. It's 1/16" thick, so it's fairly beefy. It cleans up super easy as you would expect. I'm not afraid to get anything on it - brake fluid, ATF, oil, water, even gasket remover - it just wipes right up. Another plus I found out about the other day... You can write on it with a Sharpie or pencil. I use the far end near the door to write notes for myself so I see them before I leave. I was taking some measurements another day and wrote down the calculation right next to my work space. When I was done, I just took some brake cleaner and wiped it away.

They are pricey as tops go, but I feel they will last a lifetime.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by RAYJAY

lol my wife would freak out at the all the doors left open, and its great to see your realy using the shop.

Jeff

Yea, slowly getting back to normal after this day. Engine is in the truck, so now it's time to cleanup as well as integrate all my other stuff from my attached garage into the above cabinets (hence, why they're open).

[Hades12]

Very Nice....

[1320stang]

Very nice. As far as filling the gap at the lower part of the cabinets, I have another suggestion. Have a SS shop make you up some baseboards to put on the base of the cabinets. You don't say what kind of gaps you have.

Also, too bad you're not closer to Oklahoma, I have a co-worker with a grey market '85 M6 black/black that is languishing in his garage. He had the engine rebuilt and they used 'moly rings. He followed the break-in instructions to the "T" and after the appointed time, was still getting a little oil smoke, so he's convinced they're not broke in and it's been parked ever since. Still has the metric rims on it, but I'm sure the tires are dry rotted. I'd bet $6k or $7k would pick it up.

My friend has a Rotary lift in his garage, but it's an assymetrical two post lift. It's pretty nice. I guess going with the blue theme, you'll be purchasing some Miller products next.

[1320stang]

Oh, I don't know if you have an Ace Hardware up there, but they carry SS buttons that snap in holes as well as some black one. They're on the bolt isle.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by 1320stang

Very nice. As far as filling the gap at the lower part of the cabinets, I have another suggestion. Have a SS shop make you up some baseboards to put on the base of the cabinets. You don't say what kind of gaps you have.

Also, too bad you're not closer to Oklahoma, I have a co-worker with a grey market '85 M6 black/black that is languishing in his garage. He had the engine rebuilt and they used 'moly rings. He followed the break-in instructions to the "T" and after the appointed time, was still getting a little oil smoke, so he's convinced they're not broke in and it's been parked ever since. Still has the metric rims on it, but I'm sure the tires are dry rotted. I'd bet $6k or $7k would pick it up.

My friend has a Rotary lift in his garage, but it's an assymetrical two post lift. It's pretty nice. I guess going with the blue theme, you'll be purchasing some Miller products next.

Thanks. The only problem with putting stainless strips along the bottom of the cabinets is that the gaps are not even because the floor is not even along the entire length. Plus, stainless would draw attention to the floor and I'd rather draw attention away from the floor.

If I buy another car my wife will have my hide. I just got done spending a good amount of time and money on a beat up F250. I'd love to have an M6. Maybe someday.

Yea, funny, I'd like to get a Miller sometime soon. So many times have I needed to fab something but don't have a mig/tig to do it.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by 1320stang

Oh, I don't know if you have an Ace Hardware up there, but they carry SS buttons that snap in holes as well as some black one. They're on the bolt isle.

I didn't think of that. I actually have some of the factory blue paint so I could paint them, too. Thanks!

[1320stang]

I've got a Miller 130 MIG. It's a 110 unit, but a buddy has used it to weld a pickup frame together and it's held up well. He fishplated and bolted it as well.

[TNToy]

That's funny. I found out about the same sharpie 'tip' last week. Posted it in the tool forum.

Stainless is the only way to go.

Let me put it this way: Snap-On offers a butcher-block top, and a stainless top upgrade to every one of their toolboxes. So do Mac, Cornwell, and Matco.

The stainless one costs more than the wood one, and yet every single box in our dealership's shop, and every other one I've been in, has 1 of 2 things: A stainless top, or the factory rubber mat protected by rags. I've never even seen a butcher-block top on a professional tech's box.

Stainless is great. Nothing is easier to clean up, although eventually it'll become covered in thousands of tiny scratches. But unlike wood tops... if you're really a perfectionist, most of them would probably buff out with some mag wheel polish.

[HOTRODVW]

I'm new to this sight but I am very glad I stopped here. Your shop is amazing.

Congrats on an awesome shop.

[christian]

bmw,
I've been watching your build for months (thats why I signed up - so I could see all the pictures) and just wanted to say your shop looks great. It's obvious that you've put a ton of planning into it and I love the way it looks.

[bmwpower]

Hey, thanks guys for all the nice comments. Hopefully, some more changes coming sometime soon. Looking at putting in a new compressed air system, but I have to get a few other things finalized before I do so. As usually, pictures will follow!

[Raven1911]

Definitely a dream shop for sure! Awesome job! I research everything before I buy it and it looks like you are the same. How did you decide on the epoxy flooring choice with all those choices out there??

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Raven1911

Definitely a dream shop for sure! Awesome job! I research everything before I buy it and it looks like you are the same. How did you decide on the epoxy flooring choice with all those choices out there??

(1) I wanted something heavy duty and solvent based.... eliminate 50% of off the shelf systems.
(2) I wanted something readily available locally - I didn't want to wait for an additional kit to ship out or pay for shipping.
(3) I wanted something with detailed installation instructions and support before/after the sale.
(4) I wanted something that received positive results from others.

That only left 2 products in my eyes - Rustoleum and ArmorSeal.

ArmorSeal won out in the end. I felt it was better suited for an "industrial" or automotive environment.

Hope that helps!

[Raven1911]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

(1) I wanted something heavy duty and solvent based.... eliminate 50% of off the shelf systems.
(2) I wanted something readily available locally - I didn't want to wait for an additional kit to ship out or pay for shipping.
(3) I wanted something with detailed installation instructions and support before/after the sale.
(4) I wanted something that received positive results from others.

That only left 2 products in my eyes - Rustoleum and ArmorSeal.

ArmorSeal won out in the end. I felt it was better suited for an "industrial" or automotive environment.

Hope that helps!

Where did you buy the armorseal from and who makes it?? Did it come as a kit with full instructions and such???

I really need to put down a floor in my garage soon, but with the temperatures too low right now, it won't dry properly. Have to wait till it gets warmer.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Raven1911

Where did you buy the armorseal from and who makes it?? Did it come as a kit with full instructions and such???

I really need to put down a floor in my garage soon, but with the temperatures too low right now, it won't dry properly. Have to wait till it gets warmer.

It's a Sherwin Williams product. I bought it from them (through a painter friend). It's hard to get in certain states due to the amount/type of chemicals in it..

It doesn't come as a kit, but there is information available via PDF online.

You could do it now as long as the temp is up to spec, but it's easier when it's warmer outside. I did mine last December in the coldest month of the year, but I had heat in the garage. I have a thread on it somewhere on this site.

[shopking68]

bmwpower, your shop is only a 30x30? I thought it was bigger, why didnt u build bigger? You have all that land, just curious, not trying to be mean

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by shopking68

bmwpower, your shop is only a 30x30? I thought it was bigger, why didnt u build bigger? You have all that land, just curious, not trying to be mean

Cost. That and I didn't want the shop to be too big so that it looked the part when sitting next to the house. I had to get a variance for the size it is now (I could only build 25x30 before the variance). I felt the extra 5 feet was needed - boy was I ever so right. I have close neighbors that may have fought me if I went too big. I just wanted to avoid all conflicts yet still get something that was workable.

In hindsight, I should have tried to go bigger, but cost was a concern. I knew I wanted a lot of other goodies for the inside and I didn't want to not be able to furnish the place with those things.

I've been thinking about blowing out the backside of the garage to add an addition - office, bathroom, big tools storage, tractor storage, etc.... many of the things I overlooked when first planning.

[73super]

Man Law # 2048: The Shop should ALWAYS be at LEAST twice as large as the house.

[JMURiz]

I wish this thread would just die....haha.

BTW what does your attached garage look like, not sure I've seen that on this site before?

Everytime I see the pics of this place, I think wow....and wish I could have built bigger. I would have loved to have a 30xanything.

[shopking68]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

Cost. That and I didn't want the shop to be too big so that it looked the part when sitting next to the house. I had to get a variance for the size it is now (I could only build 25x30 before the variance). I felt the extra 5 feet was needed - boy was I ever so right. I have close neighbors that may have fought me if I went too big. I just wanted to avoid all conflicts yet still get something that was workable.

In hindsight, I should have tried to go bigger, but cost was a concern. I knew I wanted a lot of other goodies for the inside and I didn't want to not be able to furnish the place with those things.

I've been thinking about blowing out the backside of the garage to add an addition - office, bathroom, big tools storage, tractor storage, etc.... many of the things I overlooked when first planning.

Thats cool. So you live in one of those neighborhoods that control what u can do and what u can build, man that must suck. I hate neighbors that bitch about your shop size, I have people drive by my shop in the back and its mostly old people trying to snoop to see what I am doing in there, man that really pisses me off. My father in law wanted to build a garage in his backyard, and he lives in one of those housing additions and the neighbors found out, and they threw a fit. They told my father in law he clouldnt build anything higher than his fence, I was like, are u kidding me? Man, anyway, thanks for the answers, sweet shop.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by JMURiz

I wish this thread would just die....haha.

NEVER!!!

Originally Posted by JMURiz

BTW what does your attached garage look like, not sure I've seen that on this site before?

Everytime I see the pics of this place, I think wow....and wish I could have built bigger. I would have loved to have a 30xanything.

The attached garage is nothing fancy. Here is a recent shot. It's like 20 something by 20 something - typical attached garage size, but a high ceiling of around 12'-6" (maybe enough for a 4 post??...hmmm). I've just finally got it cleaned out enough to pull in my daily driver.

[Down Under Bloke]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

NEVER!!!



The attached garage is nothing fancy. Here is a recent shot. It's like 20 something by 20 something - typical attached garage size, but a high ceiling of around 12'-6" (maybe enough for a 4 post??...hmmm). I've just finally got it cleaned out enough to pull in my daily driver.

I can see a whole new thread in here.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Down Under Bloke

I can see a whole new thread in here.

Spring is a coming, my friend!

[JMURiz]

Sweet, that's definitely big enough for a 4-post lift. Can't wait for the spring thread. You'll have done 2 garages in the time it takes me to do one, haha.

[snorvet]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

Spring is a coming, my friend!

BMW - give us a little preview. what are you going to do with the floor?

[ron in sc]

With your ceiling being a little over 14' were you able to have a room for storage above? I'm running into a problem with putting a room over part of the garage.

I had hoped to have only 1/2 of the garage have a 14' ceiling so the other side could have a storage room above but it's starting to look like I'm going to have to have entire interior with a 14' ceiling. To get a room above I would exceed permisable height regulations.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by snorvet

BMW - give us a little preview. what are you going to do with the floor?

No clue... maybe ArmorSeal, maybe something else. My big problem on this floor is that I don't think there is a vapor barrier under the slab. Oversight by me since I wasn't there when they poured the floor.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by ron in sc

With your ceiling being a little over 14' were you able to have a room for storage above? I'm running into a problem with putting a room over part of the garage.

I had hoped to have only 1/2 of the garage have a 14' ceiling so the other side could have a storage room above but it's starting to look like I'm going to have to have entire interior with a 14' ceiling. To get a room above I would exceed permisable height regulations.

The trusses weren't engineered for maximum storage or a room. I chose not to have a room above due to maximum height restrictions and to avoid questions from the township that it might be livable space. My HVAC eats up 80% of the floor space that is up there, leaving very little storage anyway. Plus, without a set of stairs (which eats up floor space), I'd have to go with external stairs, which I didn't want to do. Climbing a ladder is what I have to do to get to the attic.

[ron in sc]

I chose not to have a room above due to maximum height restrictions

It looks like I'm in the same type of situation. We have all kinds of rules to deal with including those that deal with wetlands since we live off a river and have some mashland behind our house.

Do you use any of the wall space for storage, specifically I was wondering about the space high up. Like have you installed any cabinets or anything else up there?

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by ron in sc

It looks like I'm in the same type of situation. We have all kinds of rules to deal with including those that deal with wetlands since we live off a river and have some mashland behind our house.

Do you use any of the wall space for storage, specifically I was wondering about the space high up. Like have you installed any cabinets or anything else up there?

We have to deal with wetland here too, plus many restrictions due to Wharton State Forrest (the biggest underground reservoir).

I thought about building a loft, but I really couldn't develop any ideas. If you have some, let me know.

[ron in sc]

What do you think about something like a STRUCTURAL STEEL
MODULAR MEZZANINES like one in photo.

[tubeman]

Originally Posted by ron in sc

What do you think about something like a STRUCTURAL STEEL
MODULAR MEZZANINES like one in photo.

That looks like what I need! Who makes those?? Thanks!

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by ron in sc

What do you think about something like a STRUCTURAL STEEL
MODULAR MEZZANINES like one in photo.

That would work. I've thought about those, too, but never looked into them any further.

The only downside would be loss of light to the lower level, but I guess you could throw some lights under it.

I'm going to guess those are pretty pricey, though. Is that from Global Industrial?

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by tubeman

That looks like what I need! Who makes those?? Thanks!

Here's Global Industrial's offerings:

http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/...anine&index=32

[ron in sc]

Who makes those??

L.K. Goodwin Company, http://www.lkgoodwin.com/more_info/m...p_ladder.shtml

I'm working with April over there and she is in the process of getting me a proposal together. They can pretty much make whatever you want.

The issue as I see it is where do you put the stairs without taking up tons of space. Of course I could have a lift for about $30K but that's obviously not going to work.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by ron in sc

L.K. Goodwin Company, http://www.lkgoodwin.com/more_info/m...p_ladder.shtml

I'm working with April over there and she is in the process of getting me a proposal together. They can pretty much make whatever you want.

The issue as I see it is where do you put the stairs without taking up tons of space. Of course I could have a lift for about $30K but that's obviously not going to work.

Ahh, yes. I've seen that site before.

How big is your area again? Stairs in my 30x30 would eat a ton of space, IMHO.

[ron in sc]

How big is your area again?

I'm meeting with the contractor tomorrow. We are going to try to put up the largest garage allowed by "rules". I think it's only about 24 x 26.

[useless]

Well I'm coming in here late but you have a remarkable garage. I on the other hand am striving to get mine to that point. I want to do the floors next, when time and money allow. I also want to install a boiler/tank waterheater that can keep up to heating my entire building. Currently my 40 gallon water heater is not enough. As for a lift, I messed up and didn't but in voids where the Pex runs and and deathly scare of drilling. I had planned on one but I'm not sure how much use it would get. I sure do like your setup, keep us all up to date.

[ron in sc]

Bmwpower,

Approximately how far into your garage are the center of your posts for your lift located?

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by ron in sc

Bmwpower,

Approximately how far into your garage are the center of your posts for your lift located?

I have to check, but I believe they are 14 foot from the lip on the floor near the door.

Do you need the recommended install distances for Rotaries? I have the sheets at home.

[ron in sc]

Do you need the recommended install distances for Rotaries? I have the sheets at home

I may need them, if I do I'll PM you.

Do check the distance you think is 14' when you get a chance.

My garage is smaller than yours 24' wide by 26' long but it will be for only one car so the lift will be in the middle.

The three lifts high on my list are
Nussbaum Jumbo NT--can be flush mounted, clean look, but I don't know about there customer support.

Rotary two post-- available and great customer support

Mohawk A-7 really like this one--customer service is supposed to be good.

Mowhawk System 1--can lift 10K pounds and has a number of accesories that be purchased to make it more usefull, resale is better than A-7. Probably my first pick.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by ron in sc

I may need them, if I do I'll PM you.

Do check the distance you think is 14' when you get a chance.

My garage is smaller than yours 24' wide by 26' long but it will be for only one car so the lift will be in the middle.

The three lifts high on my list are
Nussbaum Jumbo NT--can be flush mounted, clean look, but I don't know about there customer support.

Rotary two post-- available and great customer support

Mohawk A-7 really like this one--customer service is supposed to be good.

Mowhawk System 1--can lift 10K pounds and has a number of accesories that be purchased to make it more usefull, resale is better than A-7. Probably my first pick.

Just checked...it is 12 feet to the door, not 14.

[ron in sc]

Just checked...it is 12 feet to the door

I called Rotary to ask some other techical questions and I was put thru to a fellow who is a "Technical Information Supervisor". All I can say is he was extemely knowledgeable and helpful. I think I may be pretty hard pressed to buy another brand of lift given Rotary's apparent high level of customer support and the fact that they have people locally that install and service them.

The lift he suggested for my use is, I think, the same one you have an SPOA10RA.

I asked about minimum distance from door and front of the garage (using midpoint of columm) and he too said 12' to rear and 6' in front. It was based type of vehicles I will be lifting.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by ron in sc

I called Rotary to ask some other techical questions and I was put thru to a fellow who is a "Technical Information Supervisor". All I can say is he was extemely knowledgeable and helpful. I think I may be pretty hard pressed to buy another brand of lift given Rotary's apparent high level of customer support and the fact that they have people locally that install and service them.

The lift he suggested for my use is, I think, the same one you have an SPOA10RA.

I asked about minimum distance from door and front of the garage (using midpoint of columm) and he too said 12' to rear and 6' in front. It was based type of vehicles I will be lifting.

Mine is a symmetrical lift SP010. The SP0A10RA is an assymetrical lift with thread up adapters. He probably suggested that lift due to the min pad height. The RA lifts are over an inch shorter in pad height.

I haven't had a problem lifting any of my cars with the SP010. The only car I haven't tried is my 325i convertible. It's lowered and out-of-commision right now, so I haven't tried it on the lift.

If you're lifting slammed Porsches, you'll probably want what he recommended. The RA adapters are more, from what I remember, though.

[ron in sc]

The SP0A10RA is an assymetrical lift with thread up adapters. He probably suggested that lift due to the min pad height. The RA lifts are over an inch shorter in pad height.

Actually the model I'd get is the SPOA10iRA. It has like you said screw up adapters and they are a little lower. It will also have 3 stage front arm which is better for most of the vehicles I'll deal with because they have specific lifting points. As far as my Porsche goes I may be able to use the lift without having to drive onto any pieces of wood, but if I do that would be ok.


I'd also get that inbay feature too.

[enginerd]

Has anyone found a nice off the shelf solution for rotory/hawk "arms" to allow use on racecars?

Many times, we've had to have someone lift up a corner of the chassis to get the lift arms under.

Anyone know of a mfg that makes such an item?
Thanks

[slammer]

I know it would be somewhere in this thread, I have looked twice and can't see it.

How thick are the wood inserts(benchtops), and also what is the thickness of the stainless sheet going over them?

Cheers Angelo

PS awsome workshop!

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by slammer

I know it would be somewhere in this thread, I have looked twice and can't see it.

How thick are the wood inserts(benchtops), and also what is the thickness of the stainless sheet going over them?

Cheers Angelo

PS awsome workshop!

Thanks Angelo!

The tops are made of a 1-3/4" wood core with a 1/16" stainless cover.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by enginerd

Has anyone found a nice off the shelf solution for rotory/hawk "arms" to allow use on racecars?

Many times, we've had to have someone lift up a corner of the chassis to get the lift arms under.

Anyone know of a mfg that makes such an item?
Thanks

Which arms have you been using?

The arms on the lift Ron speaks of are the lowest Rotaries I've seen. Have you tried contacting Rotary to see if they make something for that specific purpose?

I know that in some of the Rotary brochures they used to show a touring car on one of their inground lifts.

[slammer]

Thanks for the quick reply,

I went with 32mm (1-1/4") MDF with 2.5mm stainless on the portable workbench that I am making.

Cheers Angelo

[ron in sc]

Anyone know of a mfg that makes such an item?

Nussbaum does. Check links I've posted. The problem with Nussbaum as I see it is availability of lifts and parts as well as customer support. They would be my first choice; but my thinking is purchasing an expensive product without a company you can get ahold of easily to ask a question or get a part is not worth dealing with, unless you really want it and are willing to put up with a certain degree of frustration.
http://www.nussbaum-lifts.de/modules...rt_Lift_GB.pdf
http://www.nussbaum-lifts.de/modules...x_Prospect.pdf

[99E36M]

How about min. height for a Rotary lift? I'm in the planning stages and my modular builder said a 12' ceiling garage would probably cost $10k less then a 14'...but maybe stick built wouldn't be as expensive?

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by 99E36M

How about min. height for a Rotary lift? I'm in the planning stages and my modular builder said a 12' ceiling garage would probably cost $10k less then a 14'...but maybe stick built wouldn't be as expensive?

http://www.rotarylift.com/library/po...terials/14.pdf

$10K?? I doubt it will cost that much more to go 14 foot, but it will depend on the construction.

[Mrchurch117]

hi bmw i saw your garage and have been following the build. im a senior in high school and i am doing a research project on the design and build of a profesional garage. yours definitly qualifies as a profesional quality garage and was wondering if you had anymore pictures, info, prices, companies you used, or something you would see as useful that i could use you as a source.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Mrchurch117

hi bmw i saw your garage and have been following the build. im a senior in high school and i am doing a research project on the design and build of a profesional garage. yours definitly qualifies as a profesional quality garage and was wondering if you had anymore pictures, info, prices, companies you used, or something you would see as useful that i could use you as a source.

Thanks. I think everything you need is right here in this thread. If you need pictures of something specific, let me know.

[GTRClive]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

Thanks. I think everything you need is right here in this thread. If you need pictures of something specific, let me know.

Hi, I live in the UK at present but I'm Emigrating to Calgary in June...
I bought an old Cottage in the UK, and Built a 35x16 garage at the side.. It was all the land that was left, UK Land Pricing is Astonomical.....

I have no Idea How much a Wood structure would cost to build... So was woundering if you have a Ball Park figure on your project, with out all the lovly internal dressings.... I did most of the work on My Garage as well....

[wilbilt]

Originally Posted by GTRClive

It was all the land that was left, UK Land Pricing is Astonomical.....

Worse than California?

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by GTRClive

Hi, I live in the UK at present but I'm Emigrating to Calgary in June...
I bought an old Cottage in the UK, and Built a 35x16 garage at the side.. It was all the land that was left, UK Land Pricing is Astonomical.....

I have no Idea How much a Wood structure would cost to build... So was woundering if you have a Ball Park figure on your project, with out all the lovly internal dressings.... I did most of the work on My Garage as well....

Unfortunately, I don't have not tabulated my records to be able to give you an answer. But if I had to guess, it's probably around $10-15K in structure alone.

[Darren M.]

Absolutely awesome build, documentation, etc. Any updates?

Cheers,
Darren

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Darren M.

Absolutely awesome build, documentation, etc. Any updates?

Cheers,
Darren

Thanks!

The only thing I've done in some time is to mount a Ridgid vise. I will be updating the thread sometime soon with this info, but there already is another thread on the subject.

Still need to finish in window/door trim with the rosettes, too.

[SteveL]

Any updated pics with the trim work in??? Gotta see those Roundell rosettes!!

[StanBo]

I hate to be a pain but none of your pictures are working for me. Are they still hosted on the same location as first posted?

I just started reading this thread and just joined the site. Loving it so far

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by StanBo

I hate to be a pain but none of your pictures are working for me. Are they still hosted on the same location as first posted?

I just started reading this thread and just joined the site. Loving it so far

Yes, picture source hasn't changed. I don't know why it is, but if I load a picture individually (right click on the pict to copy address and load it in a new window), the picture comes up. Then I refresh the page and all the pictures come up. BS Comcast is going thru some sort of upgrade and my account has been affected ever since.

Please try the method above to reload the picts and let me know if it works for you....more firepower for me when I call them on Monday.

Thanks for the compliments! Trying to get some projects sold/built so the garage is packed with stuff. I need to update some things, but I haven't had the chance yet.

[GunMoto]

No words can describe the amount of planning you invested into this project. This is all I can offer:

Awesome shots...it's certainly refreshing to see that shop put to use

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by GunMoto

No words can describe the amount of planning you invested into this project. This is all I can offer:

Awesome shots...it's certainly refreshing to see that shop put to use

Thanks! A lot of sweat and tears, that's for sure.

[GunMoto]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

Thanks! A lot of sweat and tears, that's for sure.

...and of course, blood and beer

All that's missing now is your BMW racecar...

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by GunMoto

...and of course, blood and beer

All that's missing now is your BMW racecar...

Cleaning garage of projects as we speak... to replace them with ....???

We shall see...

[mnstr572]

So any progress yet?

[UN4GTBL]

bump for update on this amazing garage!!!

[jhn9840]

Somehow missed this thread until today. Great shop, everything built with quality and attention to detail. It's a great feeling when all the planning and hard labor finnally come together. The blue Rotary lift and Lista cabnets really set it off IMHO. Hope to see some more pics as it evolves.

jhn9840
John

[ron in sc]

Armorseal 1000 HS holding up well? By my calculation you've had it down about 2 years. I ask because I'm considering it too, but in clear.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by ron in sc

Armorseal 1000 HS holding up well? By my calculation you've had it down about 2 years. I ask because I'm considering it too, but in clear.

Holding up well. It's been 2 years already? Wow. Just seemed like yesterday that I put it down. I do have some areas where the surface has chipped, but I've either dropped a pair of cutters from high up or something else with a sharp edge. Also, it appears that I may also have a slight "dusting" of the top surface because when I take a look at the floor from where the chip has been removed, it's crumbly.

I'm very pleased with it to date. I've come accustomed to getting it really filthy with all kinds of stuff. Chemically it's held up great except for a couple of areas where I let stuff sit for months or under something else preventing it from evaporating or drying up. Coolant under a piece of hardwood comes to mind.

I'm not sure if these properties I've noticed are due to the cold temperature in which I coated the floor or the slab itself. In either case it hasn't kept me from using the floor to the fullest extent.

The great thing about ArmorSeal is you can get it locally for a decent price (been around for years and should continue to be) and cover up any damage.

I wouldn't use the clear. I don't believe it's meant for "outside" use. Probably something to do with the UV properties and/or yellowing that may occur.

[TejasBimmer]

Damn - - that is one hell of a build BMWPower!
Thanks for sharing!
Now you need to hold a tech session with your local BMW CCA Chapter!

[ron in sc]

don't believe it's meant for "outside" use.

If I use it I will be using it inside garage. My theory is clear will be easier to repair. Also the way my concrete was finished its kind of marblized and I don't mind the look of concrete. Of couse I will have to acid etch or shot blast.

[ron in sc]

bmwpower,

You indicated it earlier posts you used grinder and also did acid etch. What were the factors that made you decide to do both?

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by ron in sc

bmwpower,

You indicated it earlier posts you used grinder and also did acid etch. What were the factors that made you decide to do both?

The EDCO grinder was used due to the fact that my floor surface was pretty crappy - a lot of trowel marks and unlevel areas. The acid etch was used per directions to help the coating adhere to the floor.

[ron in sc]

EDCO grinder was used due to the fact that my floor surface was pretty crappy

The surface of my concrete is relatively smooth, it was power trowelled and it's level.

I think I would prefer to just use grinder to avoid fumes and mess created with acid etch. Also I read that grinding is preferable way to prepare floor to coating.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by ron in sc

The surface of my concrete is relatively smooth, it was power trowelled and it's level.

I think I would prefer to just use grinder to avoid fumes and mess created with acid etch. Also I read that grinding is preferable way to prepare floor to coating.

Shot blast...maybe. Grinder - no way. The grinder is more muscle than anything else. The acid etch is what you need. After you etch, the floor is left with a micro-rough texture. Tiny indentations are what help the epoxy hold to the floor. Also, the fumes are really not that bad. Do you need a mask? Sure, but once the acid is neutralized the smell pretty much goes away. Also, the grinder is in no way a "clean" process. It puts off a LOT of dust as shown earlier in my thread. Even further supporting the fact, if you're floor is nice and smooth and you're not careful with the grinder, you can score the surface and the epoxy will not cover such imperfections.

Hope this helps.

[ron in sc]

Hope this helps.

It definately does.

I called the tech support people in Cleveland and they told me just what you said regarding the acid etch. They said the grinding was not necessary in my case.

[DatacomGuy]

Wow. Simply wow.

[pirana]

bmwpower, i've been following this thread about your build. That garage kicks ass!. Thought you might get a kick out of this belt buckle I made. I'm into BMW's too, the two wheeled variety.

[Nefarious7907]

Nice Bimmer collection, I am an E30 too

[Ryan M]

Nice build. Following it for a while.

Couple of questions, if you don't mind.

On your floor. Did you use any sort of anti-slip? How slick is the surface?
I used S/W Shield-Crete with no anti-slip and it is very slick. Very tempted to re-do my floor.

Also, do you have any pics of the block wall? I bought their block filler also, but haven't used it yet. Wanted to see what to expect.

Thanks again
Ryan

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Ryan M

Nice build. Following it for a while.

Couple of questions, if you don't mind.

On your floor. Did you use any sort of anti-slip? How slick is the surface?
I used S/W Shield-Crete with no anti-slip and it is very slick. Very tempted to re-do my floor.

Also, do you have any pics of the block wall? I bought their block filler also, but haven't used it yet. Wanted to see what to expect.

Thanks again
Ryan

Thanks. No anti-slip on the floor, I wanted it to be easy to clean. My floor is rough to begin with (lousy finish job) but it still will get slippery if you're not careful. I would not go with anti-slip.

I will have to see if I can dig up some picts of the wall. It came out pretty good.

<edit> found some.

I also used some Kilz stain sealer/primer stuff over all rust stains BEFORE I coated with the block filler. This suggestion came from a painter friend of mine to avoid the bleed thru of any rust stains.

[ron k]

Bmwpower,

I'm on the verge of ordering some Listas. Did you consider the pallet truck base? It looks like you have just the regular base. Any trouble with that choice?

Thanks,

Ron

[Old Moparz]

I think I had read some of the first posts, but obviously missed more of this thread than I had thought. (21 pages!) Very well thought out garage, & very nice too.

I'm giving serious thought to heating mine in the near future & like the attic unit you have. My garage is also detached from the house & I'm not in it everyday, so hot air makes sense. If you get a chance, how has the heating unit been working? Is it directly vented to the roof?

Thanks

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Old Moparz

I think I had read some of the first posts, but obviously missed more of this thread than I had thought. (21 pages!) Very well thought out garage, & very nice too.

I'm giving serious thought to heating mine in the near future & like the attic unit you have. My garage is also detached from the house & I'm not in it everyday, so hot air makes sense. If you get a chance, how has the heating unit been working? Is it directly vented to the roof?

Thanks

Thanks!

Heating has been working great. I used it much more than the A/C. For high ceilings like mine I definitely recommend fans to push the air down in a forced air system. The hot air tends to stay up high if I don't have the fans on. With 100k Btu (80%) is heats up really quick and stays comfortable.

It is directly vented thru the roof.

Originally Posted by ron k

Bmwpower,

I'm on the verge of ordering some Listas. Did you consider the pallet truck base? It looks like you have just the regular base. Any trouble with that choice?

Thanks,

Ron

You pay extra for the pallet base, or for any base for that matter. With 8 floor cabinets it becomes a significant add on ($). I didn't need the extra height and moving them, although a little harder without a pallet truck base, was easy enough with a pallet truck and a buddy.

Picking your height is the important thing. If you are happy with the base cabinet height + countertop height, then I would stick with that. Only use the pallet and fork truck bases if you need that extra couple of inches....my 2 cents.

Good luck! And post back when you get the cabinets!

[DHill]

Any other updates on this garage? It is perfect.

[diverdown]

Hi
I’ve got a step out in my wall like yours at the bottom. Leaving a ledge But my ledge is of arc styrene blocks for insulation cause of the radian heat in the floor. My question is when you place your cabinets back against the wall, your cabinets had to be off from the back wall at least 3 1/2 inches or more did you just extend your cabinet’s tops to the wall and leave the space behind them or did you have the cabinets build out from lista to set on the step I’m to jealous to comment on how nice your garage looks right now

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by diverdown

Hi
I’ve got a step out in my wall like yours at the bottom. Leaving a ledge But my ledge is of arc styrene blocks for insulation cause of the radian heat in the floor. My question is when you place your cabinets back against the wall, your cabinets had to be off from the back wall at least 3 1/2 inches or more did you just extend your cabinet’s tops to the wall and leave the space behind them or did you have the cabinets build out from lista to set on the step I’m to jealous to comment on how nice your garage looks right now

I had the tops custom made to fit, so they extend to the walls, covering the space behind the cabinets.

Thanks for the comments!

[ersatzs2]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

I had the tops custom made to fit, so they extend to the walls, covering the space behind the cabinets.

Thanks for the comments!

And since I've got your 'extra' tops, I get the same benefit! Seriously, I love how wide those tops are. It's amazing how much you use the extra depth. I've got less 'step out' than you I think, so I'll actually have some dead space behind each cabinet. Well worth it to have the extra counter top area.

[gregoryd3]

how can I get some of those BMW rosetts (sp?)/corner blocks for my garage?

[PAToyota]

Had to go back and take a look through the thread. I remembered seeing the BMW rosettes, but couldn't remember seeing them actually installed. Couldn't find any pictures. So, how did they work out?

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by PAToyota

Had to go back and take a look through the thread. I remembered seeing the BMW rosettes, but couldn't remember seeing them actually installed. Couldn't find any pictures. So, how did they work out?

Haha...still waiting to get them made. I wanted to make some design changes and since then lost touch with my friend who was going to make them. The cost was expensive, so I put it off. That and I didn't need the trim for inspection, so I delayed...and delayed...still don't have trim or rosettes installed!

Let this be a reminder for me to get the darn trim and rosettes installed.

Actually, I don't think I could get the trim installed right now. Too much damn crap in the garage.

[stinkythings.com]

bmwpower : WOW .. What an amazing shop ! My toes curled reading about the build !
I am sold on your Lista cabinets with SS tops.
Sorry I dont make BMW rosettes, I do make BMW Air Fresheners. PM me, I will send you some you deserve them !
Cheers

[ratman2]

Bmwpower,
I'm curious as to what they did with your building permit after the town screw up. Usually here I think building permits are only valid for a year from the date of issue. Did you have to reapply?

[L79racer]

Bmwpower, how has your floor held up? Does it scratch easily when you drag things across it? does it chip or crack when you drop tools on it? If you leave a car on jack stands does it dig into the epoxy? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Vinny

[checkthisout]

Originally Posted by L79racer

Bmwpower, how has your floor held up? Does it scratch easily when you drag things across it? does it chip or crack when you drop tools on it? If you leave a car on jack stands does it dig into the epoxy? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Vinny

All the answers would be yes except for the Jack Stand one.

The strongest expoxy floors cannot stand up to heavy machined parts drug across them, it will haze or sometimes dig just like clearcoat on a car, when you drop something heavy and sharp you are just cutting right through it and even causing the concrete under it to chip which of course allows it to flake off.

[L79racer]

Originally Posted by checkthisout

All the answers would be yes except for the Jack Stand one.

The strongest expoxy floors cannot stand up to heavy machined parts drug across them, it will haze or sometimes dig just like clearcoat on a car, when you drop something heavy and sharp you are just cutting right through it and even causing the concrete under it to chip which of course allows it to flake off.

I see race shops with epoxy floors. I thought they would hold up. If epoxy chips or cracks in these conditions I would have to say the vct tiles are the way to go if your going to do repair work in your garge. I have 10 gallons of 100% solids epoxy from Kelmar I was thinking of using but its too soft. Its for parking garage decks with a aggregate. What about armorseal 650 hb? Anybody use that?

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by stinkythings.com

bmwpower : WOW .. What an amazing shop ! My toes curled reading about the build !
I am sold on your Lista cabinets with SS tops.
Sorry I dont make BMW rosettes, I do make BMW Air Fresheners. PM me, I will send you some you deserve them !
Cheers

Will do, thanks!

Originally Posted by ratman2

Bmwpower,
I'm curious as to what they did with your building permit after the town screw up. Usually here I think building permits are only valid for a year from the date of issue. Did you have to reapply?

Permits in my area don't expire. You just have to show progress over a 6 month period, which I had no problem doing.

Originally Posted by L79racer

Bmwpower, how has your floor held up? Does it scratch easily when you drag things across it? does it chip or crack when you drop tools on it? If you leave a car on jack stands does it dig into the epoxy? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Vinny

I abuse my floor and it's held up great. It's usually fine dropping tools on it unless it's a sharp tool from a high drop. I did have a heavy hose reel leaning up against one of my cabinets and it feel over and the hard pipe attached to it dug into the floor a bit. No worries though. Sure, there are a lot of scars - it will scratch if you try hard enough.

I don't use jack stands directly on it due to the PSI exerted on the floor. I did have a chassis of a car on jack stands and it turned out fine, but the chassis was pretty light. If I had AC type jack stands I would do it without question since they have base plates on each jack stand leg.

[dykstra]

way cool garage

[checkthisout]

Originally Posted by L79racer

I see race shops with epoxy floors. I thought they would hold up. If epoxy chips or cracks in these conditions I would have to say the vct tiles are the way to go if your going to do repair work in your garge. I have 10 gallons of 100% solids epoxy from Kelmar I was thinking of using but its too soft. Its for parking garage decks with a aggregate. What about armorseal 650 hb? Anybody use that?

Expoxy chips and scratches but it's still superior to floor paint and in my opinion, to snap together tiles and such.

I can't see using something like race deck in a commercial setting.

In the shop that I manage which has been expoxied for about 6 years, the area below each tech's rack is scraped and chipped like heck. Out in the middle where the cars drive, it is hazed with the only scratches being from turning on it with studded tires.

Man those things are evil!

[diverdown]

BMWPOWER i was wondering what the measurement was from the floor to the bottom of your electrical outlet boxes around the cabinates. I'm following your lead on most of your garage info building mine but my ceiling in the garage is 12' tho

[Davegt27]

Hi I just had to tell you hats off to your nice garage build
I am in the military and almost all of are stuff is lista, its super expensive
So much so I can’t even imagine a civilian owning any of it

But most likely we got the special military rate ha ha
Good thing about our Lista stuff is no one knows how old it is
I'm guessing it was bought back in the 80's. The stuff still looks great.

Thanks for the ideas

Davegt27

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by dykstra

way cool garage

Many thanks!!

Originally Posted by diverdown

BMWPOWER i was wondering what the measurement was from the floor to the bottom of your electrical outlet boxes around the cabinates. I'm following your lead on most of your garage info building mine but my ceiling in the garage is 12' tho

Woh, sorry for missing this. I'll be out there tomorrow so I will check if you still need that info.

Originally Posted by Davegt27

Hi I just had to tell you hats off to your nice garage build
I am in the military and almost all of are stuff is lista, its super expensive
So much so I can’t even imagine a civilian owning any of it

But most likely we got the special military rate ha ha
Good thing about our Lista stuff is no one knows how old it is
I'm guessing it was bought back in the 80's. The stuff still looks great.

Thanks for the ideas

Davegt27

THEY'RE NOT THAT EXPENSIVE! Well, I have to be honest I have not priced them since I bought mine. I bought mine right before a string of pricing increases, which I'm sure have gotten even worse since then. However, -when you compare to Lista to Snap-On, etc. they come out WAY cheaper.

And yea, the government either got an incredible discount or it was one of those $25k toilet seat deals.

Thanks for your comments and your service!!

[diverdown]

bmwpower that would be great if you could check those measurements for me i'm going to be doing my wiring soon and would like the outlets to set the same way yours do with the cabinets thanks

[Sidekick]

Originally Posted by diverdown

Hi
I’ve got a step out in my wall like yours at the bottom. Leaving a ledge But my ledge is of arc styrene blocks for insulation cause of the radian heat in the floor. My question is when you place your cabinets back against the wall, your cabinets had to be off from the back wall at least 3 1/2 inches or more did you just extend your cabinet’s tops to the wall and leave the space behind them or did you have the cabinets build out from lista to set on the step I’m to jealous to comment on how nice your garage looks right now

I made my counter tops go to the wall and used the space behind the cabinets to run my airlines and my 3" vacuum lines so it is all hidden. At 10 ft intervals I used a clean out in case something got stuck. This is a garage to die for.
Well done.

[larry4406]

Very nice build, I just scrolled thru all 23 pages. I have to ask, why no urinal or bathroom? Or does the sink do double duty?

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by larry4406

Very nice build, I just scrolled thru all 23 pages. I have to ask, why no urinal or bathroom? Or does the sink do double duty?

Haha I was just out there yesterday talking with my father-in-law about this. I will likely be putting on an addition some in the distant future that will take care of this. Until then, the woods or a milk jug seem to work. If worst comes to worst, I run in the house to do my business.

A bathroom just wasn't gonna fit in the floorspace I wanted.

[diverdown]

Hey bmw power heres a pic of my garage my brothers and I are building I was wondering if you had a chance to get those measurements for the outlets around your cabinets thanks. hope i fig out how to load a picture right

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by diverdown

Hey bmw power heres a pic of my garage my brothers and I are building I was wondering if you had a chance to get those measurements for the outlets around your cabinets thanks. hope i fig out how to load a picture right

Just measured...roughly 44-1/2" to bottom of box from floor. 35-1/2" from floor to top of stainless top.

[Miter Wrench]

Absolutely fantastic garage! Kudos to you for the detailed documentation over the years with pictures & plans etc.

[GunMoto]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

I abuse my floor and it's held up great. It's usually fine dropping tools on it unless it's a sharp tool from a high drop. I did have a heavy hose reel leaning up against one of my cabinets and it feel over and the hard pipe attached to it dug into the floor a bit. No worries though. Sure, there are a lot of scars - it will scratch if you try hard enough.

I haven't checked back on this thread in a while, just wanted to say this is one of my favorite garage builds.

To OP, I'll reiterate, it's nice to see that floor getting some abuse (and holding up) with the work that gets done in your garage!

[babzog]

A bump for a super nice garage!

I'm only a light maintenance, do it in my attached garage kinda mechanic (using that sacred word VERY loosely), but I love the lift! That... is sweet!

I'm very interested in the floor coating. After sopping and mopping up yet another spill from a oil change with barely an inch of space to turn my beak, I'd love to coat the floor with something that lets oil just... wipe up. The floor has been in place for 18yrs and has a spot where it's a bit lower (had to bust out a section to seal the electrical service entrance) and therefore rougher and there're a couple of spots on the walls where the salt they put on the roads in the winter has leeched in and seriously pitted the concrete. I saw no vapour barrier when I busted out the concrete.

Would you suggest the Armourseal product? Any thoughts on prep work? Would I be in trouble having no vapour barrier?

Thanks for any thoughts and tips! Again, great job on your man cave - post some new project pics (and still waiting for the trim work pics!)

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Miter Wrench

Absolutely fantastic garage! Kudos to you for the detailed documentation over the years with pictures & plans etc.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by GunMoto

I haven't checked back on this thread in a while, just wanted to say this is one of my favorite garage builds.

To OP, I'll reiterate, it's nice to see that floor getting some abuse (and holding up) with the work that gets done in your garage!

Someday I will sit down and update this thing. Not too many changes, but might as well update it.

It gets MUCH abuse. I can't remember the last time I cleaned it. When I spill something I clean it up relatively soon (most times ). Like I said before, the first mark was hard to stomach, but it got easier along the way.

Originally Posted by babzog

A bump for a super nice garage!

I'm only a light maintenance, do it in my attached garage kinda mechanic (using that sacred word VERY loosely), but I love the lift! That... is sweet!

I'm very interested in the floor coating. After sopping and mopping up yet another spill from a oil change with barely an inch of space to turn my beak, I'd love to coat the floor with something that lets oil just... wipe up. The floor has been in place for 18yrs and has a spot where it's a bit lower (had to bust out a section to seal the electrical service entrance) and therefore rougher and there're a couple of spots on the walls where the salt they put on the roads in the winter has leeched in and seriously pitted the concrete. I saw no vapour barrier when I busted out the concrete.

Would you suggest the Armourseal product? Any thoughts on prep work? Would I be in trouble having no vapour barrier?

Thanks for any thoughts and tips! Again, great job on your man cave - post some new project pics (and still waiting for the trim work pics!)

Thanks!

I know, I know. Got to get ahold of my buddy for the trim. Still NOT in installed.

As far as prep work, it's really the same as anything else...make sure the slab is "dry", "clean" the surface in someway (mechanical or chemical or both) and coat it. For your slab, place a plastic bag down on the floor. Tape the sides to the floor. Let it sit for a day or 2. Check under the bag. If there is moisture, you're likely to have a problem. There are some product that are more tolerant to water from what I recall. Best to visit the Flooring forum and do a search or start up a new thread. Many experts in there.

[bmwpower]

I can't take it anymore. I'm going to run copper pipe for air and water distribution.

Water pipe: Only problem is where my water stub comes into the garage and the way I would have to run the pipe to get it near the garage doors where I would like to put a water hose reel. The stub is near a door so I'd either have to go up and on the ceiling OR up and around the door (lots of joints). The ceiling would be fine, but I'm worried about condensation forming when running the water on hots days (dropping on nicely waxed car, etc)..and it's freaking 14 foot in the air...gonna be fun.

I'm assuming I can wrap the pipe? Chemical plant and labs I used to work in had pipe wrap with an outer white platic coating - looked decent and did the job. Not sure how much this will cost...gotta research.

The stub is 1/2" copper now. Going to remove the 1/2" tee and put in a 3/4" like should have been done originally (my stupid fault). Then 3/4" to hose reel somewhere near the doors.

Any code regulations about running water pipe near light switches?

Air pipe: No idea what I'm going to do here. Gotta sit down and design things a bit. I've got several hose reels now that I can use. I will probably run 2 reels in this garage and save one for the attached garage when I run pipe over there (ala ron in sc) - too convenient not to run air to the place where the daily drivers park. As for the shop, I will run 2 hose reels. Haven't decided where. Any ideas?

Going to likely remove the regulator/filter I have near the compressor and run individual filter regulators at each drop. Thanks to the way I designed the cabinet layout (center tall cabinet is offset from the wall), I will be able to run a stretch of copper all the way across and under the upper cabinets so I can have air at the sink or anywhere along the back wall. Sweet.

From what I've read, making a continuous "loop" around the shop will equalize pressure vs. running an incomplete loop, so I will likely do that. I want to run air to the attached garage, so I need to exit the garage somewhere near the man door and get it into the ground. Rather than put a drain somewhere in the ground (ala ron in sc), I was wondering if I could just put a ball valve just as the copper comes into the detached garage but on the high side, before the regulator. Then when I want to clear the line of moisture, just open it wide open and let the air carry out the moisture. With the force of the unregulated air (125 psi) coming out of the ball valve, this should carry any moisture up and out of the line, no?

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[bluesman2a]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

Air pipe: No idea what I'm going to do here. Gotta sit down and design things a bit. I've got several hose reels now that I can use.

BMW, I just recently went through this myself. I got on a kick where I decided to at least MOUNT all the reels. Then once they were up, I decided to at least hook them up temporarily. My ceiling is still open on one side, so that made things a little easier. But I cannot tell you how much of a difference it's made!!! Even if you just temporarily plumb the reels with another hose. Makes it MUCH easier to clean up, ratrher than tripping constantly over air-hose, and in my case, it was super nice being able to have air in all three bays at the same time.

I think when I do my system permanently I'll use copper with the shark-bite fittings. That seems to be the best commonly available solution for expandability.

[kbs2244]

You can buy pipe insulation at any of the stores.
It is a grey foam tube split lenghtwise to be slipped over the installed pipe.
It is pretty cheap.
It is use both to eliminate condensation on cold pipes
and on hot water pipes to keep the water warm.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by kbs2244

You can buy pipe insulation at any of the stores.
It is a grey foam tube split lenghtwise to be slipped over the installed pipe.
It is pretty cheap.
It is use both to eliminate condensation on cold pipes
and on hot water pipes to keep the water warm.

Does it have a plastic coating?

[Der Bugmeister]

We've got chilled water running through copper pipes onboard the ship. When they installed some new pipes, it was amazing how much condensation was on them. If you didn't know better, you'd swear the pipe was either perforated or a seam was leaking and the water running down the length of it.

They covered it with a grey foam material, slit on the topside for installation then glued to provide a sealed perimeter. I think they were supposed to go further with proper lagging around it, but they never got that done.

From what I can tell, it stops at least 95% of the condensation, and what it doesn't stop from forming doesn't weep through the foam at all.

So the earlier suggestion of grey foam insulation should fit the bill to save the cars from drips!

[Vinko]

Have you considered Keiser aluminum piping rather than copper piping for air? If you have the means, I'd consider it. I'm considering it for my shop at work.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Vinko

Have you considered Keiser aluminum piping rather than copper piping for air? If you have the means, I'd consider it. I'm considering it for my shop at work.

I will check it out, but if it's anything like other Kaeser stuff, it's probably way out of my price range.

You have any pricing?

[ct71rr]

Awesome garage!!! Small world, I work in Holliston, Ma. and also have a Lista cabinet. I got a great deal on it, it was slightly damaged during shipping. Their cabinets are built like tanks!

[Shehzada]

OMG!!! Amazing progress! Great job on such a meticulously thought-out endeavor!!!

Did you ever do a tally to find out the total cost of the project?

[bmwpower]

No idea. I enjoy every minute out there. That is worth any cost in my book.

Thanks for the compliments!

I seriously need to update this thread, but my job is throwing me for a loop...12-16 hour days...So much I need to do out there, so little time.

[E30bimmer]

[quote=bmwpower;677296]No idea. I enjoy every minute out there. That is worth any cost in my book.

[rburke65]

bmwpower....Do you not have garage door openers on your doors? Do the torsion springs hold them open ok? Thanks. And thanks for the pictures of those 14' high ceiling, as I think that is what I will be going with when I do build. They do seem high....any regrets going 14'?

[alberto]

This one of my favorite garage builds on this site. Very thoughtfully and well done.

I am confused by the dimensions of the garage, however. Post 1 indicates that the garage foundation is 30x30, however, the dimensions shown in the drawing in post 12 are 22 x 26.5. I'm sure I am missing something, but I cannot for the life of me figure it out.

Thanks for the clarification and posting the images and other information about your garage.

Alberto

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by rburke65

bmwpower....Do you not have garage door openers on your doors? Do the torsion springs hold them open ok? Thanks. And thanks for the pictures of those 14' high ceiling, as I think that is what I will be going with when I do build. They do seem high....any regrets going 14'?

No openers on my doors. The torsion springs hold them with no problems at all. They are really well balanced. I can open the door at just about any height and they will stay there. It took the guy some time to adjust them but they work well. Make sure to get someon who know what they are doing. My first installers had no idea what they were doing. It wasn't until I complained that they sent out one of their guys that "fixes" problems. He was excellent.

The only regret I have with going with 14' is that it makes it hard to get into the attic, but I rarely do that so it's not too much of a pain. I am planning on putting some kind of ladder up the wall to make it easy to get in the attic, but that was put on the backburner for now.

Originally Posted by alberto

This one of my favorite garage builds on this site. Very thoughtfully and well done.

I am confused by the dimensions of the garage, however. Post 1 indicates that the garage foundation is 30x30, however, the dimensions shown in the drawing in post 12 are 22 x 26.5. I'm sure I am missing something, but I cannot for the life of me figure it out.

Thanks for the clarification and posting the images and other information about your garage.

Alberto

Thanks!

Those dimensions you speak of are "open wall space". The diagram on post 12 is for my Lista install so that I made sure I had enough space for cabinet placement around the shop.

[alberto]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

Those dimensions you speak of are "open wall space". The diagram on post 12 is for my Lista install so that I made sure I had enough space for cabinet placement around the shop.

So you have another 8 x 3.5 ft of free space to the drawings? (Sorry for being so dense; I'm trying to gauge the size because the garage I am designing only allows for 25 feet in depth and I am trying to get a sense for how that will work out space wise and if I can put cabinets on the front of the cars or of they will need to go on the sides).

Thanks.
Alberto

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by alberto

So you have another 8 x 3.5 ft of free space to the drawings? (Sorry for being so dense; I'm trying to gauge the size because the garage I am designing only allows for 25 feet in depth and I am trying to get a sense for how that will work out space wise and if I can put cabinets on the front of the cars or of they will need to go on the sides).

Thanks.
Alberto

Depth of garage inside is 8.5' + 7.5' + 6.0' + whatever the windows are, which I think are 30" a piece. So that is about 27 foot deep on the inside.

[alberto]

Thank you for the clarification.

[Gord]

Wow, Im soo glad I found this thread and this site. Im starting a 24 x36 this month, and like you I will be doing it myself. It took an hour and 15 min to read the thread , but soo helpful. Thanks for taking the time dewd !
When I start I will post a thread.
Thanks again !

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by Gord

Wow, Im soo glad I found this thread and this site. Im starting a 24 x36 this month, and like you I will be doing it myself. It took an hour and 15 min to read the thread , but soo helpful. Thanks for taking the time dewd !
When I start I will post a thread.
Thanks again !

No problem. That's why we post 'em - to help people out.

[simontudor]

WOW! this is an amazing garage I am 15 years old and only have a 1 car garage and am so jealous of yours. Great job on the whole thing!

[duct tape]

A question about your cabinet layout.

Having now been installed and using them for a while, do you have any thoughts about your peninsula cabinet, the 60" x 30" DW one b/w the two garage bays? I'm wondering with my layout if I would rather keep the cabinet wall flush all the way across the back of the garage and not have to walk around this particular cabinet?

Thx and very nice garage build.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by duct tape

A question about your cabinet layout.

Having now been installed and using them for a while, do you have any thoughts about your peninsula cabinet, the 60" x 30" DW one b/w the two garage bays? I'm wondering with my layout if I would rather keep the cabinet wall flush all the way across the back of the garage and not have to walk around this particular cabinet?

Thx and very nice garage build.

Thanks. I love the peninsula. What works for me, might not work for you. Check out your available space. More counter/cabinet space was important to me and being able to access a counter from 3 sides comes in handy. Yes, I have to walk around it, but only when changing tasks. If I am working on a car in the lift bay, I have 3 counters to choose from. It also gives me a good place to park my mobile SC cabinet, which I can rotate either way, depending on which bay I am working in.

[e-tek]

Hey BM - How about some current "state of the union" pics? I like to see how people garage looks while being used! Bet it still looks great!