best air compresser for the money ?

[RAYJAY]

ok I 'm in the market to replace my sears 5 hp 30 gallon air compresser .

what should I look for in gallon size and hp

as for air tools I run the the following ;

impact guns ,body tools, air drills paint gun

I am looking at harbor freight 2 60 gallon units.



US General 60 GALLON, 165 PSI, 2 STAGE AIR COMPRESSOR



or

60 GALLON, 130 PSI AIR COMPRESSOR


or for the money is there a better one out there ?


Jeff

[rockwithjason]

spend the extra dough and get a quincey. HF mail order used to handle them drop shipped from the factory in IN. You won't be sorry you spent the extra cash.

[kartracer55]

A quincy from one of those isnt "extra" money its Twice as much, if not more


Whats the most you want to spend? Also, are you limited with power or space?

Jim

[Itzkwik]

Might check the Kobalt at Lowes. Its also $799. 5hp, 80 gal. 2 stage. Think it has slightly more cfm at 90. Next step up would be an Eaton 5hp/80 gal. The price on the Eaton is $1100. I'm looking at both of those currently. I know the Eaton is a far better compressor, but its another $300 plus freight which is probably another couple hundred.

[pgreen]

Look for a cast iron pump. It'll last significantly longer and will run quieter than it's aluminum counterpart.

I have a 5hp C.H. "Cast Iron Series" and it works great. Have had it for about 12 years now. I also put synthetic oil in it, since the oil gets changed so often (yeah right) and holds less than a quart.... This seemed to make it run a bit smoother and quieter too.


Phil

[johnny1290]

FWIW I just watched a video on body work, and the shop guy said to make sure the pump is iron, get the biggest air tank you can afford, and judge it by CFM, not by HP. Make sure it'll move enough air(CFM) to drive the biggest air hog tools you think you'll use.

this hvlp paintgun wants 14cfmhttp://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47016

this one wants 10-15 cfm
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43430

half inch impact wants 15 cfmhttp://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46015

nibbler wants 17 cfmhttp://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90114

by the way I read the specs on the 3.5 HP one it doesn'thave the goods
ir Delivery: 12.8 CFM @ 90 PSI, 14.5 CFM @ 40 PS

It seemed the above tools wanted 90 psi.

the 5hp has Air delivery: 13.5 CFM @ 165 PSI, 15.8 CFM @ 90 PSI, 16.4 CFM @ 40 PSI

so it looks like the better one to get, even though its a lot more money. That said, I'm no expert, i'm just judging by ratings and whatnot, I'm sure there are voices of experience that can answer this better than I. I don't know how vital it is that your compressor put out exactly what the specs say these tools need.

My experience is that it drives me nuts waiting for a compressor to fill, or if it's running all the time for that matter.

Good luck man, it's a big $$$ decision, you're smart to ask around.

[kartracer55]

If the compressor is shy of the full capacity needed for the tool youll still be able to run it.

Dont forget though, an impact gun doesnt need to have its full load met, because it is used in quick bursts.

Higher capacity in the tank means more stored air to deliver for the tool. I dont have the equation to figure it out but Id imagine a few guys on her have it, or you can call IR and ask them to figure out run time for a tool.

Also, usually the higher quality the tool the more efficient it will be... case and point..

Harbor friehgt 3/8 "Pro" ratchet...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47214

6 cfm average 24@ full load (continuous) 50 foot pounds, 130 rpm

Chicago Pneumatic

4 cfm average 16 @ full load 50 ft lbs 150 rpm

Yes the CP is 50$ instead of 32$ but its a much more efficient tool.

BTW, for those who care kobalt compressors are only assembled in USA... read the big american flag sticker closely

Jim

[RAYJAY]

Originally Posted by kartracer55

A quincy from one of those isnt "extra" money its Twice as much, if not more


Whats the most you want to spend? Also, are you limited with power or space?

Jim

max i want to spend is around $900.00

as for my air tools i only buy one of the best Ingersoll Rand buying the cheaper ones does not work out for me

[kartracer55]

Sears has a Campbell Hausfeld 14.6? CFM @ 90 unit on sale for 820. Id look at thier higher end machines, as well as IR and Eaton.

Jim

[d110pickup]

Ray,
I'm also buying a compressor, my 20 year old Speedair bit the dust.
Since you like Ingersoll-Rand you should look at their compressors.
If you can buy at Grainger (www.grainger.com) check out the 5hp 2 stage units they show. (4L977) 60 gallon is $1125 & (1WF59) 80 gallon is $1349. They're cast iron and I believe US made and I know the tanks are ASME certified.
If you can't buy at Grainger I think Tractor Supply has them also.
Mike

[kartracer55]

I *THINK* speedaire compressors are rebadged C-H Extreme/industrial models.

Mike, What happened? You might be able to get a rebuild kit from grainger, they stock many of them

Jim

[sberry]

as for my air tools i only buy one of the best Ingersoll Rand buying the cheaper ones does not work out for me.

Well then you need the best comp to go with the best tools. Large air tanks look nice and help with bursts of needed air but dont do much for continious run tools like sanders. There is no substitute for enough pump to do the job. You are looking to the high teens for cfm to run sanders and rotary tools well. Something in the "5 real Hp range"

[AndrewM]

Originally Posted by d110pickup

Ray,
I'm also buying a compressor, my 20 year old Speedair bit the dust.
Since you like Ingersoll-Rand you should look at their compressors.
If you can buy at Grainger (www.grainger.com) check out the 5hp 2 stage units they show. (4L977) 60 gallon is $1125 & (1WF59) 80 gallon is $1349. They're cast iron and I believe US made and I know the tanks are ASME certified.
If you can't buy at Grainger I think Tractor Supply has them also.
Mike

Grainger had the I-R 2340L5 (their 4L977) on sale for $931 about 6 weeks ago. One now sits in my garage. It has a Grainger Dayton 5hp (22 Amp) motor on it, and the I-R sticker has Grainger machine-typed on it.

The sub-$1000 compressors at Tractor Supply aren't the 30T series V-pump compressor heads, they're the inline SS / TS series pumps. Not as durable, from what I've read. Not as rebuildable either.

[d110pickup]

Originally Posted by AndrewM

Grainger had the I-R 2340L5 (their 4L977) on sale for $931 about 6 weeks ago. One now sits in my garage. It has a Grainger Dayton 5hp (22 Amp) motor on it, and the I-R sticker has Grainger machine-typed on it.

The sub-$1000 compressors at Tractor Supply aren't the 30T series V-pump compressor heads, they're the inline SS / TS series pumps. Not as durable, from what I've read. Not as rebuildable either.

Andrew,
You're exactly right about the Tractor Supply I-R compressors, but I was trying to stay closer to Rayjay's budget.

Your experience with the 4L977 is interesting. The one I looked at last week at Grainger has an Emerson 5hp, 28 amp (I believe) american made motor on it. Also it's equiped with the 30T V Compressor.
If I have time Monday I'm going to go buy it and I'll confirm the motor then.

Kartracer,
Apparently I screwed-up when I bought the Speedair compressor 20 years ago. Grainger had come out with a 5hp direct-drive compressor and I thought it looked like a great idea. It uses a 22 amp, 230 volt, 1740 rpm Doerr motor. This compressor put out 21.8cfm at 175psi, we ran sand blasters, bead blast cabinet and air tools all day. Doerr is gone now but was a supplier of industrial quality motors ,at the time I bought the compressor we had Doerr motors at work (Lockheed).
Well, Grainger abandoned the direct drive large compressors after a coupla years and discontinued replacement parts including motors years ago. The motor rebuilders say this a partial motor. One of end plates is the crankcase of the compressor. $300+ to rebuild it, and I'll still have a 20 year old compressor. I'll just buy a new one and plumb the old tank (it's ASME certifided) in series for more storage capacity.
Betcha you regret asking now.
Mike

[Mandres]

The best for the money has got to be the Hausfeld VT-6271



10.3 cfm @ 90psi. Should be able to handle most tools easily except for sanders/grinders Cast-iron pump, belt driven, etc. Can be had for ~$450.

[RAYJAY]

Originally Posted by Mandres

The best for the money has got to be the Hausfeld VT-6271



10.3 cfm @ 90psi. Should be able to handle most tools easily except for sanders/grinders Cast-iron pump, belt driven, etc. Can be had for ~$450.

looks like a nice unit but its the size i have now.and itr can't keep up with the work i do. I really need a unit with about 15 cfm or better at 90 lb

Jeff

[d110pickup]

I got the I-R 2340L5 (their 4L977) from Grainger this week and got it installed and wired today. It does have the 5hp Dayton motor that Andrew mentioned in his post.
I did have one really strange experience thou. I removed the drain petcock from the bottom of the tank in order to replace it with a street elbow and extend the drain beyond the base of the tank. When I removed the petcock water started to run out!
The damn thing had a pint or two of water inside!
There weren't any other signs that the compressor had been run. And it was in a plastic bag inside a crate when I got it.
On the plus side this compressor is much quieter than the old one. I may not have to put this one outside.
Mike

[66RICH]

I picked up this SpeedAir unit last year, price has gone up
a $100 since then. Very happy with it, low noise level. I checked
a lot of specs on various comps to find a low RPM unit in my price
range which really helps the noise level, and reduces moisture
problems. The 80/20 duty cycle is raised to 100% when switching
to synthetic oil after breakin. I also ordered a hour gauge to track
usage (3AE11). Here's a link to comp, and a pic of the gauge I
mounted in a plastic elec. box.
Rich
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml

[66RICH]

For some reason that link doesn't show up. The Comp is a 4XA59
5HP 2 stage 80 gal tank.
Rich

[AndrewM]

Hey Mike,

Mine had a little water in the tank too when I put the elbow on (click here to see a pic of my drain valve). The outside of the compressor oil drain also had a little oil on it, but was empty. I think they must test fire them at the factory. Mine had maybe a cup of water in it.

[RAYJAY]

Originally Posted by AndrewM

Hey Mike,

Mine had a little water in the tank too when I put the elbow on (click here to see a pic of my drain valve). The outside of the compressor oil drain also had a little oil on it, but was empty. I think they must test fire them at the factory. Mine had maybe a cup of water in it.

Andrew what are the red pads you installed on you air compressor ???


Jeff

[AndrewM]

They're anti-vibration pads from Grainger.

Since I got the compressor on sale (saving $200), I "splurged" on the anti-vibration pads. I think you can get something similar for much less - these were $26/ea (x 4). I probably should have shopped for some in the $10/ea range, but I just wanted to 'get it done'.

Grainger part number 4C974 - http://www.grainger.com

Admittedly, they're nice and heavy duty. Thick steel top and a plastic pad. I used lead split concrete anchors and lag bolts (from my mom & pop hardware store) to hold it all to the floor.

[bmwpower]

Are these Grainger sales advertised?

[AndrewM]

I randomly stumbled across it while shopping for a compressor. I was actually close to ordering an Eaton, but $200+ in shipping (and the receiving part) was making me hesitate. Was checking local places where I could go pick one up. Shopped HD, Lowes, Tractor Supply, Sears, HF, and a couple of local stores. Saw this one on sale online and bought it that day (I have a small business / side job ID that I used, but I could have used my day job's company name just as easily).

[RAYJAY]

THE ONE i'M LOOKING AT NOW IS THE IR SS5L5 MODEL



* Motor: 5.0 HP/11.5 Peak HP - single phase motor
* Volts: 230 Volts/30 Amps
* PSI: 18.1CFM @ 90PSI/ 15.5CFM @ 135PSI
* Max PSI: 135 PSI
* Tank Size: 60-gallon vertical
* Pump: Oil lube cast iron belt driven pump
* Air Outlet: 1/2in. NPT
* 100% continuous duty
* Drain System: Manual Drain

* Dimensions: 20in.L x 30in.W x 71in.H
* U.S.A.
* Model SS5L5

Weight = 310 lbs

Single-stage air compressors ae ideally suited for the contractor or small shop owner. Features include continuous duty cycle rating, cast iron compressor pump, minimum 5,000 hour pump operating life.


PRICE IS 799.00 FREE SHIPPING FROM NORTHERN TOOL


THE UNIT DOES MEET ALL OF MY NEEDS UNDER THE 1000.00 DOLLARS
15.0 CFM AND 60 GALLON TANK

ANY IMPUT ON THIS COMRESSOR ???

JEFF

[AndrewM]

Tractor Supply Company has the SS5N5 - same head, 80 gallon tank - for $742, if you have one locally. My buddy has one at his shop. His has locked up on him a couple of times, but they run it pretty hard. I don't know how well he treats it either, with regards to using the I-R Synthetic Oil vs regular oil.

That was the first one I considered, but I decided I wanted a 2-stage unit - that way, my system air pressure wouldn't drop below 120 psi while painting (as the compressor cycles).

[GT350Mike]

My Wal-Mart/Sam's 3hp air compressor died today (after 13 years) and I'm going to get a compressor sometime w/in a week or so. My question is this.....does the 110v compressor use the same amount of electricity as a 220v compressor (same hp)?

[W-Cummins]

Originally Posted by GT350Mike

My question is this.....does the 110v compressor use the same amount of electricity as a 220v compressor (same hp)?

Yes, No, Maby :-) 1hp ~ 746watts

120V vs 240V makes no difference in the hp or the power used. Your motor's efficiency rating and Power-Factor will dictate the amount of "power" required to produce one hp.

So a SINGLE phase motor

Amperes = Horsepower x 746
______________________
Volts x Efficiency x Power-Factor

A Usefull calc for finding True HP from the Amp draw is

Hp=volts x amperes x efficiency x power-f
_____________________________
746

So lets plug in some numbers
For example lets say we have a single phase motor running on 120V that has an efficiency of 92% and a power factor of 80% and we have a amp-load of 8.4 amperes

So

120V x 8.4 amps x 0.92 eff x 0.80 pf
______________________________
746

Hp = 741.888
_______
746

or Hp= 0.994488 ~ 1 hp

Now if you plug in the 0.994488 hp into the 1st Eq above to solve for the amps and use 240V you will see that you use 4.2 amps.

Then

Power (watts) = Volts x Amperes

(1/2 the Amps) x (2X the Volts) =
(2X the Amps) x (1/2 the Volts) =

Same Power (watts)

So if you have the same motor eff and power factor it makes no difference in operation cost for a 120v or a 240v motor
(note this is measured at the motor) If you measure at the power meter on your wall you would see a SLIGHT difference due to the higher load on the wires (some loss due to the heating of the wires) at the lower voltage (assuming the same gauge wires for both voltages)

William.....

[GT350Mike]

Well that covers my question from a to z. Thanks!

[tbob]

While we're on the subject of air compressors, I have a brand new IR SS5L5 like the one mentioned above. I bought it cheap from a salvage dealer because the crankshaft on the pump was bent during transport. Anyone on this forum ever worked on a compressor pump? I found the parts I need here in town. How much trouble is it to work on these things? Any repair manuals available? Any suggestions? Thanks, Terry

[bhays]

Originally Posted by tbob

While we're on the subject of air compressors, I have a brand new IR SS5L5 like the one mentioned above. I bought it cheap from a salvage dealer because the crankshaft on the pump was bent during transport. Anyone on this forum ever worked on a compressor pump? I found the parts I need here in town. How much trouble is it to work on these things? Any repair manuals available? Any suggestions? Thanks, Terry

I rebuilt the pump on my compressor a few months ago, put in new reed valves and rings...pretty simple deal...only took about an hour and I am really nervous (slow) doing stuff like that.

[GT350Mike]

I cannot spend over $400 for a compressor so I wanted everyone's opinion on this one from HD:

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...glo.0&MID=9876

[GT350Mike]

Originally Posted by GT350Mike

I cannot spend over $400 for a compressor so I wanted everyone's opinion on this one from HD:

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...glo.0&MID=9876

Cannot get the link to work so here is the description:

HUSKY
5 Peak HP 26 Gal Vertical Compressor
Model VT6315
$377

[GT350Mike]

Try this link!
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...=09-12942593-2

[Grim Reaper]

Originally Posted by GT350Mike

Try this link!
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...=09-12942593-2

Simply put...its weak!

Spend the $450 on the CH posed above. It puts out nearly twice the CFM at 90 psi and thats what counts.

I have an older IR Similar to the CH above that I have been pounding on for years. It has done well and out performs all my buddies $400 Huskies and Black Max. My buddies just can get past the fact that my 3hp 30 gallon IR can run a small sand blaster and their 5hp Husky with 80 gallon tank falls on its face....Well Mine makes 9.6 CFM at 90psi and theirs makes 5.6cfm at 90psi......Its all about the CFM

Mines due for some work. The reed valves are leaking but I can't complain for a used compressor I bought for $70 10 years ago.

[914forme]

A little out of the price range but I am thinking this is my next compressor, they are 40 minutes from here.

http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catal...747/172983.htm

In hte price range I think it will work, need to cjeck my sandbalster it eats air.

[Grim Reaper]

Originally Posted by 914forme

A little out of the price range but I am thinking this is my next compressor, they are 40 minutes from here.

http://www.eatoncompressor.com/catal...747/172983.htm

In hte price range I think it will work, need to cjeck my sandbalster it eats air.

Thats a nice compressor for the price. 14 CFM on single phase is a rarity. Excelent compressor for a home shop.

There was a speedair on craigs that I wish I could afford and had the power to run. Looks like it will go for under $1k. Its 10 Hp 3 phase and makes 34CFM at 175psi. Just no way to power it at my place.

[gb387]

Originally Posted by GT350Mike

Cannot get the link to work so here is the description:

HUSKY
5 Peak HP 26 Gal Vertical Compressor
Model VT6315
$377

This is the exact one I have, had it for a couple years now and no problems. Perfect for me, use it from time to time its fairly quiet, pumps up quick and I couldn't be happier.

[Cody 82 zxt]

Hey guys just thought I would add yet another compressor to the list of possiblities.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...HFV&lpage=none

I bought this unit last Christmas and so far has worked great. I really just use it for basic stuff most of the time but, I have used it for painting a car about 2 months ago and it worked great. It even kept up with the cheap Harbor Freight air file.

I did lots of searching and price comparison before the purchase and this seemed like the best deal I could find.

[PAToyota]

Originally Posted by 66RICH

I also ordered a hour gauge to track
usage (3AE11).
Rich

Good call on adding the hour meter. Looking at the picture, I assume that the wiring goes from the disconnect to the compressor and that the hour meter is tied in after the pressure switch?

I just found a 220V 60hz hour meter off eBay for less than $20. The $50~$70 price was what put me off doing it when I put the compressor in originally.

[Kevin54]

When shopping for a compressor, spend a little extra and get a two stage. The cycle time on a single stage is greater and with it running more you generate more heat and along with more heat comes more water. If you think that you drain some water out of a two stage, the single stage will generate twice as much. Also someone mentioned the isolation pads / anti vibration pads from Grainger at $26.......Get an old mudflap. the type from a semi truck or dump truck and cut it into squares to set your compressor on. If you want it thicker then look at gluing a piece of 1/4" plywood in between two pieces of rubber. This is the same as the boughten isolation pads except the boughten pads have the waffle pattern. If you want something with a pattern, cut a few sections out of an old tire. That works extremely well. The weight of the compressor along with the rubber will keep the compressor from "walking" when running, and will let the compressor run more quiet.

Kevin

[Charles (in GA)]

Originally Posted by Grim Reaper

Thats a nice compressor for the price. 14 CFM on single phase is a rarity. Excelent compressor for a home shop.

There was a speedair on craigs that I wish I could afford and had the power to run. Looks like it will go for under $1k. Its 10 Hp 3 phase and makes 34CFM at 175psi. Just no way to power it at my place.

Single phase compressors up to 7.5 hp (real) are quite common, yielding about 24 cfm. Eaton does make a 10 hp single phase, and so do others, but not so common.

However the good deals on 5 hp and up large shop compressors are usually all three phase and not so good a deal unless you have the power source.

Charles

[automotive stud]

What's the difference between single and double phase?

I've got an oilless 5 horse 25 gallon craftsman that isn't that old and works fine, but I really hate it. Too noisy, and can't keep up with my blast cabinet.

[bmwpower]

Originally Posted by automotive stud

What's the difference between single and double phase?

I've got an oilless 5 horse 25 gallon craftsman that isn't that old and works fine, but I really hate it. Too noisy, and can't keep up with my blast cabinet.

I think you mean:

120V, single phase
240V, single phase

Twice the voltage. Advantage is more compressors fall into this category. If you move beyond a 2-3 HP motor on 120V, you'll need to move up into the 240V category. You'll find more "usable" models in the 3-7.5 HP range using single phase, 240V.

[kartracer55]

Originally Posted by automotive stud

What's the difference between single and double phase?

I've got an oilless 5 horse 25 gallon craftsman that isn't that old and works fine, but I really hate it. Too noisy, and can't keep up with my blast cabinet.

I think your getting two things mixed up here. Single vs. Three phase refers to the type of power you have comming in.

Single vs. Two stage refers to compressor pump design.

In a single stage are is compressed/pumped right into the tank. On a two stage, air is compressed, then compressed air is moved into another "cylinder" where it is further compressed. IF you really want the pros and cons of these do a search on them. I can get more continuous CFM@90 with the particular single stage setup that I have than its 2-stage could, however the single stage runs more because it cant store air at a higher capacity. I dont mind it running, Ill take the few extra deliverable CFM's.

Now for the power. Hard for me to explain because I barely have an understanding myself. Ive got no formal "education" with electrical so Ive kind of had to figure it out on my own. There are quite a few guys on here who could explain this WAYYY better than I could but think of it as single phase having one big "surge" and 3 phase haveing 3 "surges" all at different times.

Youve probably seen the graphs that represent one "cycle" where a line starts at "0" on a horizontal line and curves up, back to zero then down and back to 0 again... thats a single cycle. Three phase has three of these "cycles" going on all at once but intersecting this horizontal line at different points. So no "cycle" is overlapping another, but there are still 3 going on at the same time.

Thats All I know... I gotta find a website that explains this in deptph. When I do Ill either post it or PM it for you. If somebody on here can explain it better PLEASE! do and help me out here

Jim

[RAYJAY]

OK found at sam's club a 6 hp 2 stage delta for 790.00 any input on this one

http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/nav...520&pCatg=1524

lookd on deltas site and they redirect you to poter-cable site.



175 PSI, Two-Stage 80 Gallon Oil-Lube Stationary Compressor

Browse Tools » Air Products » Compressors






Model C7550
6 HP Running
Two-stage, oil lubricated Twin-V cast iron pump for long life and durable operation
175 PSI pressure for longer tool run time
89 dBA
Pump contains automotive style piston, rings, connecting rods and sight glass
240 Volt capacitor start induction motor with manual thermal overload protection
No magnetic starter required
Large tank pressure gauge for easy visibility and better accuracy
80 gallon ASME tank supports heavy duty, continuous multi-tool usage
Metal belt guard
Two year warranty
Standard Equipment: Compressor




Lubrication
Oil-Lube
Tank Size Gal.
80
HP (Run)
6.0
Max. PSI
175
SCFM Air Delivery
@40 PSI: 16.4
@90 PSI: 15.2

Gauges 1
Weight
401 lbs.
Shipping Weight
447 lbs.

[bmwpower]

Specs aren't bad, but I don't think the pump is cast iron - the metal of choice. Motor looks kinda whimpy for a 6HP. I, personally, would hold out for a ~$1K American made unit with a cast iron pump.

[kartracer55]

The first thing I said is that it looks like a grey porter cable and I wen tot read your post and you said they were redirecting you. Porter Cable is Usually good stuff but I dont think this particular compressor is going to be anything special. For 6.0 Hp it should put out well beyond 20 cfm. It almost looks like a craftsman. I have no experience with it but Im going to second what BMW said

Jim

[bmwpower]

This one doesn't look half bad if you don't feel like driving...looks brand new. Someone jump on this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ingersoll-Rand-5...QQcmdZViewItem

[RAYJAY]

Originally Posted by bmwpower

This one doesn't look half bad if you don't feel like driving...looks brand new. Someone jump on this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ingersoll-Rand-5...QQcmdZViewItem

it ok looked at them also. if I'm going that far will just pickup one of the eatons


Jeff

[ironroad 9c1]

best bet it to find a older unit that is still in good shape ,i prefer not the have the twin cyl in line like most are nowadays because the one cyl gets hotter than the other ,try and find a v model compressor. I got this for a song

Its old but it works great and i can get parts to this day cheap

[Ramblur]

Well none of us have had the urge to actually plug it in,it makes for a
neat conversation piece.

[Tony D]

Originally Posted by RAYJAY

THE ONE i'M LOOKING AT NOW IS THE IR SS5L5 MODEL
PRICE IS 799.00 FREE SHIPPING FROM NORTHERN TOOL
JEFF

That is a very good price, I work for I-R, and that cost is only about $40 more than what I would pay on our internal "employee purchase" website.

That should be a great compressor for home, and if you can find older compressors with large tanks, hook the tanks in series for more storage (as mentioned above by others). What a lot of places overlook is that storage capacity DOES replace horsepower. You usually don't have a lot of continuous demand at home, yo uhave more high-load impulse usage. If you adequately size your storage capacity you can get away with a smaller compressor than you would normally think you would need.

Added capacity has lots of upsides, and absolutely no downside other than longer pump-up time (but only if you don't valve the storage in at the end of the day and let it all leak down overnight...) I valve my receivers in and leave them pressurized for weeks at a time, I open em up, and start working! Th longer air sits in the tank, the more it cools. The more it cools, the less water it puts into your lines....

But I could go on and on on this subject, it's what I do for a living.

Hope the SS5 works out for you! If I won the lotto, I'd plunk down the $3-4K for an Atlas Copco GX3 or GX5FF. Nothing beats a screw compressor fo silent operation (>65dba loaded!), and having an integrated dryer makes for clean air for painting!

That reefer compressor is cool! I saw a lot of converted Automotive Air Conditioning Compressors converted to Air use while in Indonesia, seems nobody wanted to spend money for a replacement pump! LOL Those rotary compressors from GM products can put out a lot of air... But that's a bit more DIY than most want for their utility air.

[bmwpower]

Finallly! Someone who works at IR!

Tony D, you need to enlighten us on the CFM calculation IR uses to let a user know how much CFM he/she needs.

Is IR interested in being involved in a "compressor shootout"?

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=4712

[LT4orbust]

Originally Posted by ironroad 9c1

best bet it to find a older unit that is still in good shape ,i prefer not the have the twin cyl in line like most are nowadays because the one cyl gets hotter than the other ,try and find a v model compressor. I got this for a song

Its old but it works great and i can get parts to this day cheap

A friend of mine has a comp like this one, he bought it for $150 ....I think it'll outlast any of the newer aluminum compressors.
But not my Quincy 340 with a 10HP 220v motor(capable of 500 psi intermittenly)Sorry ...i had to put that in there,,I'm from Toledo,Ohio , I have a old sears 220v compressor for sale cheap if you need one,it uses the flat belt.cast irom compr,runs great looks old'ish

[cc_rider]

I have a Porter Cable oilless portable twin-tank, mounted on a dolly for easy portability. But I recently liberated the Campbell Hausfeld 60 gal 5Hp from our shop at work; it was overheating. Can't imagine why: a 5Hp motor running inside a small closet, with no ventilation? Should work just fine! Doh! I had to replace the check valve in the top of the tank (hint: do not buy the CH replacement part, get a better one), but now it's running fine. It's a cast-iron four cylinder single stage.

All the research I've done indicates Quincy is the shizzle, followed by I-R, Speed-Aire, Roll-Aire, etc. Campbell Hausfeld and such seem to be the lower end, occasional-use types.

If you've got some big bucks burning a hole in your pocket, consider a rotary compressor. WAY quieter than piston types. But most require 3-phase, and are $$$$.

c.

[lomonte]

Just sold said Low Monte to build ...wait for it... a shop! Am looking @ this one http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp...productID=9181 What do y'all think?

[apy]

Originally Posted by LT4orbust

A friend of mine has a comp like this one, he bought it for $150 ....I think it'll outlast any of the newer aluminum compressors.
But not my Quincy 340 with a 10HP 220v motor(capable of 500 psi intermittenly)Sorry ...i had to put that in there,,I'm from Toledo,Ohio , I have a old sears 220v compressor for sale cheap if you need one,it uses the flat belt.cast irom compr,runs great looks old'ish

=============
Where can I buy such compressor (10HP capable of 500psi)? I am looking for a compressor that can deliver more than 200psi and about 10-20 cfm rate. Used one will be fine. I am in either Kentucky or Houston.

[kartracer55]

Originally Posted by Ramblur

Well none of us have had the urge to actually plug it in,it makes for a
neat conversation piece.

What the hell is that?!?!?!

[Ramblur]

Well the thread title is "best compressor for the money".
This one was built in the 50's for probably next to nothing.
A McGyver model if you will....

[Grim Reaper]

Originally Posted by Ramblur

Well none of us have had the urge to actually plug it in,it makes for a
neat conversation piece.

Ohhhhhh man now thats some quality stuff there!

Looks like a Compressor from and aircondtioner! Makes plenty of PSI just no CFM. I'm less worried about the compressor and more worried about the tank. That compressor can make 300PSI no problem but the tank looks like it was hobbed together from a wash tub.

When you have that long night of drinking and the booze overcomes the fear...have a video camera running.

[Elroy]

No need to worry he has his yellow hard hat all ready to go.

[Ramblur]

Amazing what a few beers will do... Finally got the nerve to plug it in...
Pic below.

[RAYJAY]

Originally Posted by Ramblur

Amazing what a few beers will do... Finally got the nerve to plug it in...
Pic below.

LMAO

JEFF