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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 126
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Trying to narrow down the interior wall covering for my shop. I read all the posts about using OSB, but I'm not too crazy about the look. I'm looking at either using t1-11 (5/8") or trying to find a local sawmill and buy rough cut 8" shiplap. What I'm trying to figure out is which is the more cost effective way to go.
Is it less expensive to go with the t1-11 panels or the sawmill supplied shiplap? I'm doing the install so installation costs are not an issue. I know a 4X8 sheet goes up a lot quicker than 1X8 boards, but I've got an air nailer so that's not a big issue. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Calvert County, Maryland
Posts: 896
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I think your gonna kinda need to know what the mill is gonna charge. I would imagine your gonna use more nails too. But around here a 1/2 sheet of osb is about 11$. That would mean you would have to pay less then 1.83$ a 8' board of the 1x8. 15/32 sheathing is about 16$ a sheet its what I would use if I was worried about the osb "pattern".
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SE PA
Posts: 1,579
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We used "Smartpanel" or Smartside..I think it depends on who makes it. It's what they use on the exterior of sheds. It looks rustic with a nice grain pattern and is primed so it paints easily.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 141
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I've been pricing T1-11 and SmartSiding or whatever it is called. 4X8 sheets are going for $16-21 here in TN. Not sure on the shiplap. I haven't priced it yet.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 126
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I looked up the smartpanel. Lowes and HD carry it (or can get it). That might fit the bill for me as it can be ordered in 10' lengths.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northwest CT
Posts: 1,276
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I recently bought some native rough sawn 1x12's. Price was $.70 per board foot. Not more than a couple of years ago it was $.45 or $.50. When I built my barn/shop, using the native lumber for siding was a no brainer, now not so much.
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 126
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OK, that brings up another question. Seeing that I'm not a match wiz or a full time carpenter....how do you convert board feet to square feet? I figured that would be a good way to comparison shop. A 4X8 sheet of anything is 32 square feet...how many board feet of something 1 inch (actually 3/4) thick by 8 inches wide equals 32 square feet? Or...is there a formula to figure it out?
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SE PA
Posts: 1,579
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I just had to go down to my garage and was reminded of this thread.
Depending on how you want to finish the interior...using T1-11 or shiplap is more work later if you want to paint or finish the inside. A friend has T1-11 in a workshop that was stained. It's a barn that's 100 years old and it "fits" the look of the building. That being said, it also is not exactly smooth. I supposed using wood you'd need to seal it before painting unless you stained. For my garages...I want white walls. Helps with light, looks clean...just my preference. Finishing Smartpanel should only required painting as it's already primed. Saves alot of work if you choose to paint. Just my .02. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Calvert County, Maryland
Posts: 896
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[QUOTE=Teikas Dad;715165]OK, that brings up another question. Seeing that I'm not a match wiz or a full time carpenter....how do you convert board feet to square feet? I figured that would be a good way to comparison shop. A 4X8 sheet of anything is 32 square feet...how many board feet of something 1 inch (actually 3/4) thick by 8 inches wide equals 32 square feet? Or...is there a formula to figure it out?[/QUOT
board foot is for lumber not plywood. 1 board foot is 1" x 12" x 12" so his 1"x12" was .70$ a foot. If you got a 2"x12" it would have been 1.40$ a foot. |
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northwest CT
Posts: 1,276
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Quote:
A 12" long piece of 1x12 is 1 board foot. If it was a 2x12, it would be 2 board feet. 12 inches of 1x6 is .5 board feet. Think of it as a cubic measure. |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northwest CT
Posts: 1,276
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great minds think alike BV!
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 126
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OK, just got back from Lowes. They have 3/8 smart side panel (8' long) for about $20 a sheet. I checked with the special order desk to find out if they can order 10' lengths. They can...but they told me that the 10' panels are $40 each. I guess I'm going with 8' panels with a 2' filler on top. I'll just put a piece of trim on the seam. I like the smart side panel because it's primed already. That will make painting it a lot easier. Two of my four walls are 24" OC, the inside wall against my existing barn is 16" but it's covered with plywood already so there's plenty of support there. The front wall was supposed to be 24" OC, but with the 6' wide door and the windows I put in the only 24" wide bays in the walls are directly above the door. The rest are spaced out at 17", so I think that wall will support the 3/8" panel without a problem. I thought about two walls that are spaced 24" OC and not wanting to have the 3/8" panel bow in or out I came up with a solution. Once I insulate I'm going to put 2X3 studs horizontal with the wide edge flush with the 2X6 studs in the 24" bay at 2', 4', 6' and 8'. That way where I have the 24" OC bays there will be a bunch of 2' X 2' squares. I only need about a dozen 2X3s to do it because of the extra framing for the windows, so it's only $25 extra to do it that way. I end up with R19 insulation in the walls with 3/8" smart side panels on the wall. If anyone sees any reason why it won't work that way, please let me know.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 134
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anoter .02 worth...
unless you want the wood look or gotta have it.... 10' sheets of 5/8 OSB smooth side out and paint it.... 1/2" even but not 7/16"... it's a shop.. the OSB would service you best when comes time to "hang" "stuff" on the walls...
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