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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: York, PA
Posts: 731
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I'm just trying to double check a few things before I set my last course of block for my garage. The last course will stick up above the poured floor by about 3 inches. The other 5 inches will abut the concrete floor.
Question: Can you all confirm the rough opening for a standard man door? 36"x80" door. I think you add 2 or 3 inches to the horizontal dimension and 1.5 to the vertical? Same for the garage doors. I'm planning a couple of 10x8 doors. Does a 2x8 get run around the perimeter and then the door set within that? Any considerations for door trim? Would the rough opening be 120" wide and 96" tall or would I add 3" to each side for the 2x8 and 1.5" to the top? Let me know what you think. If you happen to have a drawing, that would be helpful as well. Thanks!
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-- Brad -- Currently working on a new garage....foundation dug, footing poured and 4 courses of 12" block complete.... waiting for the mud to dry up... |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: east bumble
Posts: 820
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38x82 min is standard rough opening.The door casing (brick mold) needs room as well. Not sure what type siding you are using (brick, hardie etc). I suggest you give 3" on each side of door for (2-2x6) framing and then 38" for the door opening. This will give room for the brick mold. So final amount 44" min. Give yourself a 1/2" grace. 44.5-45". Hope that helps.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dewey, OK
Posts: 127
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I'm doing a remodel/addition on my garage starting with a new slab. I was trying to determine rough opening sizes so I could layout anchor bolts and openings in the concrete. A 36x80 door is minimum 39x82 and on my garage door I went with Dalton doors and they recommend the finished opening being the size of the door and the seal around the door takes care of the rest.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bath, ME
Posts: 296
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For the overhead door you don't have to be as exact, the door sits behind the opening, but consider the following. I used the exact 9x8' dimensions for my RO per recommendation from the door company, but then trimmed with 3/4" trim and then the sealer strips (~3/8" ea). So my opening is now 2.25" less than 9' wide. In hindsight, I'd have made my rough opening 1.5" wider and .75" taller.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dewey, OK
Posts: 127
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I'm kind of in a tight spot for my garage door opening so I'm going to try and get as much width out of it as I can so if I can I will probably try to get away with just adding the seal strips.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: West of King of Prussia, PA
Posts: 589
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Take into consideration that a slight 1.5 to 2 inch overlap on the sides of a garage door can be beneficial if you are using the standard garage door slide locks that come out on the edge and lock into the track. It makes it more difficult to pry into the door and bend the lock out and get in. If you have an opener this might not be a problem if you are not using the locks.
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 2,608
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I'd suggest buying your doors first and then making the building fit. I've always done my building this way, and things always fit right. Before I built my garage, I went out and bought my garage doors, my walk in door, and my windows. When it came time to put them in, everything fit right.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
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The standard allowance for a man door is to provide a rough opening that is 2 inches wider and 2 inches taller than the stated door size. For example, a 3'-0" x 6'-8" door would require a rough of 38" wide by 82" high. The reason for this is that the jambs of the door take up 3/4 of an inch on each side (1-1/2 inches total) and the head jamb and sill take up about 1-3/4". The rest of the room is for shimming the door unit to be plumb and level. On an overhead garage door, it is usually sufficient to frame the rough opening to the specified door size like a 9x8 for example. The door is mounted behind the jambs and the finish trim and weather strip will use about an inch and an eighth on the sides and top basically providing the "stop" for the door assembly.
__________________
People are doing either what they THINK is right or what they KNOW is wrong. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
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x2 tcianci. They don't usually spec a rough opening for an oh door. The finished opening is usually the exact size of the door (9x7, 16x7, 16x8 etc etc) Just depends on what your using for your jambs as far as how much you have between your blocks.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: York, PA
Posts: 731
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OK, good deal. That was what I thought, but I wanted to be sure.
I'm planning to lay the last course this weekend, and that is the most critical.... Thanks!
__________________
-- Brad -- Currently working on a new garage....foundation dug, footing poured and 4 courses of 12" block complete.... waiting for the mud to dry up... |
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#11 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 26
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I am at the same spot with my 17x20 garage re-do also laying block this weekend. I am going with a 9x7 door and my research shows that the rough opening should match the size of the door. What that means is if I use 2x6 framing for the jamb, the distance between my blocks should be 9'3" so that the would make the rough opening 9' exactly once framed.
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