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Old 09-01-2010, 05:18 PM   #1
kornjulio
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Default 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

Anyone with experience changing this puppy out?

I'm looking to do this in the garage w/out a lift. I can get a cherry picker to support the engine; and I'm a fairly decent shadetree.

Am I asking for trouble w/out a lift, or can it be done?
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:27 PM   #2
hydramatic
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

why do you want to change it..what`s the code..get your fluke meter out..If your looking to make the shifts harder ...your can step up the buzz rate of the EPC without going inside the side cover...YOU DON`T WANT TO TRY THAT...BAD MOVE...
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Old 09-01-2010, 06:11 PM   #3
kornjulio
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

I want to change it because I believe it's failing. I'm not looking to make the shifts in a Chevy Venture harder - in fact, they've gotten harder as of late and that's the problem.

So can you offer any help on my original question of doing the job w/out a lift?
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Old 09-01-2010, 06:42 PM   #4
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

Quote:
Originally Posted by kornjulio View Post
I want to change it because I believe it's failing. I'm not looking to make the shifts in a Chevy Venture harder - in fact, they've gotten harder as of late and that's the problem.

So can you offer any help on my original question of doing the job w/out a lift?
If shifts are to hard it may have a code and be in high pressure mode. scan and look at codes before you do anything
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:08 PM   #5
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

I have a scanner & no DTCs (notably the P1811 code) have been set....yet....but based on my research, it has all the symptoms of a failing PCS. I realize it's not a full & proper diagnosis; but there's too much smoke for there not to be a fire....
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:46 PM   #6
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

how many miles ?? your EPC may be getting a command to " go high" because the clutch packs are worn..taking to long to fill and apply and get ratio.. drop the pan, cut the filter open..pull the pleated material apart, and looksee how much stuff you have in there..might be ready for a rebuild...good luck...
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:49 PM   #7
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

134K & fluid looks fine...
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:22 PM   #8
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

I think this is possible w/o a hoist. the hardest part on a venture is disconnecting the steering shaft when you lower the driver side of the cradle. I have replaced many of these for harsh shifts when hot. Good Luck
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Old 09-02-2010, 03:10 AM   #9
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

I swapped out the solenoids on a 4t45 which is very similar. First off support the engine with a strut mount support. I used a length of 1/4" angle iron across both strut mounts and a chain. It worked great but be very careful. I'd use a dedicated engine support bar if you have access to one at all.

Raise the car and support it on jack stands on the body of the car behind and out of the way of the cradle. Then unbolt both steering knuckles from their struts and pull CV shafts out. Unbolt and tie up the rack and pinion and separate tie rods or remove the power steering lines and steering linkages, whichever is easier. Unbolt all mounts on the cradle but do not remove the front engine mount that is attached to the car body.

Remove the front bolts of the cradle and then remove the rear bolts except for the long one on the passenger side of the car. Support the cradle with a jack and 2x4 just to spread out the load. Start slowly removing the long passenger side bolt. Back it out as much as possible without removing it. Then drop the cradle and swing it out under the car using the long bolt as a pivot.

At this point you should have easy access to the valve body cover and be able to remove it completely. When its off you have easy access to the valve body and solenoids. Re installation is reverse of removal. Just swing the cradle back into place and put everything back together. This technique is so you don't need to realign the cradle. Those things are heavy and a PINA to realign once they are off so try not to remove it completely if at all possible.

Edit***
Actually you can probably just pull the bolts on the driver side of the cradle and loosen up the ones on the right side and drop the cradle enough to get to the side cover off without separating out the rack and pinon. This website has pics that might make the job easier.

http://helpwrench.com/forums/showthr...WM-EPC-1-2-2-3

Last edited by alamerang; 09-02-2010 at 03:27 AM.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:16 AM   #10
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

alamerang -

Thanks for the post, the link helps tremedously!

I think I'm going to try this but change my plan: rather than using a cherry picker & work around the legs underneath the cradle, Harbor Freight has an engine support bar that's actually the right tool for the job for $60.

I don't need to pivot the whole thing out, just drop it far enough to get at it thru the wheelwell....
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:12 AM   #11
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

engine support bar is well worth the money for the type of project that you are about to start. Used to do this all the time, you do enough and it only takes an hour or so, the first time expect it to take a lot longer .
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Old 09-06-2010, 01:54 AM   #12
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

Quote:
Originally Posted by kornjulio View Post
alamerang -

Thanks for the post, the link helps tremedously!

I think I'm going to try this but change my plan: rather than using a cherry picker & work around the legs underneath the cradle, Harbor Freight has an engine support bar that's actually the right tool for the job for $60.

I don't need to pivot the whole thing out, just drop it far enough to get at it thru the wheelwell....
I have this support bar from harbor freight and I used it two weeks ago to pull my trans and it worked great(same trans as yours, different car). My PCS took a shit awhile back and I let it go for too long P1811 is what I had. Make sure you get a diagram or picture of which solenoid is the PCS if you determine it is at fault. It may seem like a dumb comment, but for anyone who has not dealt with transmissions or valve bodies it may be a little confusing in there
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Sears = [fill in the blank] problem. :lol:
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:32 PM   #13
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

I used some trans cleaner and then changed the fuild and mine stopped sticking, I has only does it maybe twice in three years now with over 205k on it now.
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:02 PM   #14
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

the high pressure from the failed solenoid jam the check valves in the channel plate ,p1811
this is not a good job for a beginner
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Old 09-06-2010, 09:31 PM   #15
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

We do these often at work mostly on Imaplas. I wouldn't want to be without a lift but, I'm old. Not to get off the subject but, what shape are your mounts in? at 134k, weak or collapsed mounts would enable you to feel the shifts a lot more.
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:38 AM   #16
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

Mounts seem to be OK - but my control arm bushings aren't. So I'm replacing those as well.

As an update to the original post, I'm feeling less confident attempting this job. The tranny's got to come down an awful long way to get to the side cover. I also need to separate the steering pinch joint & I can't get the boot shoved up far enough to get a wrench on it. This job might get farmed out.....
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:00 PM   #17
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

Quote:
Originally Posted by kornjulio View Post
Mounts seem to be OK - but my control arm bushings aren't. So I'm replacing those as well.

As an update to the original post, I'm feeling less confident attempting this job. The tranny's got to come down an awful long way to get to the side cover. I also need to separate the steering pinch joint & I can't get the boot shoved up far enough to get a wrench on it. This job might get farmed out.....
You don't need to seperate the steering joint..he did it the hard way on the video.

Remove the 2 nuts / bolts that hold the rack to the subframe , then use nylon straps or even heavy wire to hold the rack up. (secure it on both sides to the spring or something convenient above) then you can lower the sub frame and rack will remain in place. I just strap it from the tie rods near the rack. I've done it 100's of times this way.. When you're R&R ing the trans you must remove subframe and this method allows you to leave rack up in the car and not have to disconnect all the Hyd. lines. Work smarter not harder.

Last edited by regguy1; 09-07-2010 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 09-07-2010, 04:13 PM   #18
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

Quote:
Originally Posted by SpiderGearsMan View Post
the high pressure from the failed solenoid jam the check valves in the channel plate ,p1811
this is not a good job for a beginner
always or sometimes?
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Originally Posted by Merkava_4 View Post
Sears = [fill in the blank] problem. :lol:
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Old 09-07-2010, 04:28 PM   #19
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

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always or sometimes?
It's not that common, it happened much more often in the pre electronic version of this trans (440T4 or 4T60) The check balls will "peen" into the seperator plate and become stuck. And they only become stuck after the hole has been peened so large as to let the ball move through the plate. This occurs in my opinon from use: the check ball / s seating against the metal plate hundreds of thousands of times over high mileage. I have to disagree that this is caused by solenoid failure. This is seen much more often in the rear drive 4L60 / E and I've seen it many many times in units that had nothing wrong with the EPC.
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Old 01-15-2011, 11:43 AM   #20
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Default Re: 4T65E Pressure Control Solenoid R&R

Thought I'd close this out.

I had the local shop do the work with the parts I bought. Pretty good guys. When I got the van back, I was a little concerned something was wrong. It felt like it was slipping; but I kept driving it. Watched the trans fluid & everything looked fine. Eventually, it "relearned" everything & is performing much better. Feels like new!
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