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Here are some Air Compressors: Which one should I buy?

Wolverine

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Please give your advice on which one of these I should purchase. Your knowledge is MUCH APPRECIATED!



My compressor goals:

1) Oil lubricated design

2) Upright if possible for space savings

3) 25 to 30 gallon tank is all that I will EVER NEED!

3) It will see only occasional use of cars, auto air tools, blowing out sprinkler system, etc. I will NOT really be painting with it. It will collect dust more than it will be used!!!!!!!!!!!

4) I don't necessarily need one with a 220 hookup, but can arrange that. I know it will charge faster.

5) Sure, I would prefer to purchase an american made one, but most (if not all) are made oversees.



Here are some that I have found. Which ones do you like?



1) Husky: VT6315. ($377)

26 gallon tank. 135 max PSI. 6.6 SCFM @ 40 PSI. 5.8 SCFM @ 90 PSI. The local Home Depot has these regularly. I really like this one the best. However, if it is NOT a good choice, please tell me.

(for some reason, copying the Home Depot link does not work: pic below)




2) U.S. General: 92504-OGVA. ($400)

29 gallon tank. 120 max PSI. 16.4 SCFM @ 40 PSI. 14.5 SCFM @ 90 PSI. Requires 220 hook up.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92504





3) Bel Aire: 5026VP. ($580)

26 gallon tank. 130 max PSI. 7.1 SCFM @100 PSI. 5 HP. I really do not know much about Bel Aire? Good stuff?

http://www.maxtool.com/cgi-bin/dbse...e-4.htm,DBCOMP=ABS,ReturnMax=1,DB_ITEM=5026VP





4) Bel Aire: 4520CP. ($536)

20 gallon (Horizonal) tank. 130 max PSI. 8.2 SCFM @ 40 PSI. 6.5 SCFM @ 90 PSI. Not a verticle design but will not take up much space. This may be all I need?

http://www.maxtool.com/cgi-bin/dbse...e-4.htm,DBCOMP=ABS,ReturnMax=1,DB_ITEM=4520CP




5) Craftsman Professional: 19552. ($400)

30 gallon tank. 5 HP. 150 max PSI. 7.1 SCFM @ 40 PSI. 6.0 SCFM @ 90 PSI. Big round tank. Takes up a little more room.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...OL&fromAuto=YES&bidsite=CRAFT&pid=00919552000




I don't want to purchase a compressor beyond my needs. I don't know, do you GROW INTO a compressor, utilizing it more and more?????


Thank you very much!
 

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ranger_dood

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I would say, purchase the one with the best specs that you can afford. Even if you don't use it to it's 100% capacity, the compressor will last longer because it's beyond what you need. And I would have to say that you'll use it more once you have it....
 

bmwpower

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I would go with the Craftsman. Seems like the best specs for the money.

I would not buy a compressor from Harbor Freight.
 

gb387

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Sears or Husky best for the money... If you start to dig deeper you will find that the air compressors Make sure you get one with a SOLID cast iron pump, best pumps they are suppose to be quieter and will last longer.

I have the Husky one you list, I bought it before the Craftsman came out and its a toss up.

Sears = DeVilbiss
Husky = Campbell Hausfield
both easy to find parts should you need something down the road.
 

GearHead_1

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Couldn't tell from the descriptions but I would look for one with a cast iron compressor. You're already looking for an oil lubricated bottom end the cast iron will be considerably quieter.
 
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Wolverine

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Thanks for the replies! Okay, I've narrowed it down to the Husky vs. Craftsman. Full descriptions are below.



Husky vs. Craftsman




Husky


HUSKY
5 Peak HP 26 Gal Vertical Compressor
Model VT6315


A solid CAST IRON, twin cylinder compressor pump for extreme durability. Offers 135 PSI maximum pressure and air delivery 6.6/5.8 SCFM @ 40/90 PSI. Features pneumatic tires, efficient Solberg style intake filter, and a heavy-duty handle. Unit also includes a pressure switch and regulator with outlet and tank gauges.

• Up to 5,000 hours of extended life
• Space saving vertical tank is ideal for the garage or limited space environments
• Sturdy, robust handle and wheels for easier portability
• Designed to channel air over the pump for maximum cooling
• Automotive style changeable air filter
• Protective belt guard designed to channel air to cool the pump
• High quality oversized gauges
• American made CAST IRON pump
• 26 Gallon vertical tank
• Semi-pneumatic tires
• Over 35 percent quieter and 60 degrees cooler than aluminum pumps with cast iron sleeves


Internet/Catalog # 167501
Store SKU# 723883









Craftsman


Craftsman Professional 30 gal. Air Compressor, 5 hp, Vertical Tank, Oil Lube

Sears item #00919552000 Mfr. model #19552

Solid cast-iron crankcase and ductile iron crankshaft, large Swedish valves and a low operating speed provide quiet operation, durability and extended compressor life. High-profile pump fin. Learn more


* 10 in. semi-pneumatic wheels, durable handle, 5 hp motor and 30 gal. tank capacity
* High profile pump fin design for good heat dissipation and longer pump life
* Large swedish valves
* Low operating speed
* Vertical tank design allows user to store the compressor in tight quarters
* 150 max psi



?????????????????????
 
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Wolverine

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It looks like there may be the added posibility of standing the Husky alone without it's wheels. That could save me a few inches in my already TIGHT garage.



If I needed a part 5 years from now, where would I find it easier? Sears or Home depot?
 

iiibdsiil

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I would think Sears. But, then again, it is going to be refered back to the manufacturer so it probably doesn't matter.
 

bmwpower

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Wolverine said:
It looks like there may be the added posibility of standing the Husky alone without it's wheels. That could save me a few inches in my already TIGHT garage.



If I needed a part 5 years from now, where would I find it easier? Sears or Home depot?


Don't count on it. You may not be able to open the drain valve with the wheels off. Judging from the picture, you may severely limit your ability to open/close the drain, which you must do every time you use the compressor.

I would say both are easily fixable and parts are readily available online and through the manufacturer.
 

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Wolverine

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Thanks BMW. Yes, I actually was at Lowe's yesterday and looked over that compressor. It's nice, but 60 gallons will no doubt be bigger than what I need (especially if I have to drain my compressor after every use).

Kobalt also makes a 30 gallon, oil lubercated compressor extremely similar to the craftsman & Husky one that I posted.
 

GearHead_1

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I'm still banging on the cast iron thing here. The Craftsman's that I've seen have aluminum cylinders. A complete cast pump will be quieter. I like the Lowes compressor.
 

bmwpower

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Wolverine said:
Thanks BMW. Yes, I actually was at Lowe's yesterday and looked over that compressor. It's nice, but 60 gallons will no doubt be bigger than what I need (especially if I have to drain my compressor after every use).

Kobalt also makes a 30 gallon, oil lubercated compressor extremely similar to the craftsman & Husky one that I posted.

Things to consider with size of receiver tank...

The smaller the tank, the more the compressor will kick on to bring the pressure back up to the proper level.

I have a 30 gallon Craftsman right now and that thing is bordering on painful when it kicks on (granted it's not a quieter cast-iron type). It kicks on quite often when using any kind of air tool.

Therefore, a 60 gallon tank will provide more time before the tank needs to refill itself.

...Also doen't Lowe's have one of those "6 months, no interest" deals? Don't they give 10% off when you get their credit card? I'm sure Depot offers the same kind of deals, but for the price I think the Lowe's may be a nice alternative.
 

bmwpower

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I went to Lowe's today to see the compressors. They look pretty nice. Case iron pumps.

12 months, zero payments, zero interest. I was tempted to buy one right then and there, but my wife would have divorced me when the pallet showed up at the house.
 

bmwpower

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Another question...

Seen some info that says "cast iron cylinder". Seen some that say "cast iron pump".

I assume there is a difference. Does it make a difference if the pump has cast iron cylinder and not a cast iron head, etc.?
 

danski0224

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Wolverine said:
Thanks BMW. Yes, I actually was at Lowe's yesterday and looked over that compressor. It's nice, but 60 gallons will no doubt be bigger than what I need (especially if I have to drain my compressor after every use).

Kobalt also makes a 30 gallon, oil lubercated compressor extremely similar to the craftsman & Husky one that I posted.

You do not have to drain the contents of the compressor after each use. The only thing you need to do is drain the water from the tank, the air can stay in the tank. :thumbup:

Open the valve, let the water out, close the valve. :)

If you have the room for the footprint of a 30 gallon tank, odds are a 60 will not take up more square footage, just wall space. You will be better off with a larger tank.
 

Jay H 237

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bmwpower said:
Another question...

Seen some info that says "cast iron cylinder". Seen some that say "cast iron pump".

I assume there is a difference. Does it make a difference if the pump has cast iron cylinder and not a cast iron head, etc.?


With a cast iron cylinder there's a cast iron sleeve around the cylinder only with the pump made of another material, most likely aluminum.

With a cast iron pump not only is the cylinder wall cast iron but the whole pump.
 

FireZapper

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I picked up the 30 gallon Husky a little over a week ago.
carnage013.jpg


Love it, very quiet for a compressor. I recommend you NOT get the reel I did from HF. You have to pull the hose out straight all the tiime or it will get hung up on the reel. Get an enclosed one.
 
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Wolverine

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There is some great information here! This is such a great site! Thanks to everyone.

I've definately get the enclose/retractable hose reel.
 
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gb387

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I think they all have the three year warrenty, check but most do now. Also I know the Husky has a 100% duty cycle not sure the others do... well if they do they don't say.

Parts... no problem on husky and sears, don't know who makes the Lowes one, they ues a large pump that I have never seen before. I have looked high and low to see who made them with no luck so I stuck with a name I knew.
 

SANDOVAL

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I agree the open reels are PITA I have two of the 50' enclosed reels from Craftsman you can find them for under a $100 on ebay. They are great.
 

GearHead_1

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I think Campbell Hausfeld makes the lowes compressor and at one time I saw a three cylinder single stage compressor on their floor. Haven't seen it since.
 

Matt Harwood

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I usually recommend that people buy as much compressor as they can afford. You'll never regret having one that's too big, only one that's too small. I have an 80-gallon, 7.5 horsepower Husky (though it seems a little over-rated relative to what it can do in the real world), and I still wish I had more capacity. Certain air tools like die grinders and cut-off wheels are air hogs and my compressor runs almost constantly when I run one of those tools for more than 3-4 minutes. When I run my sandblaster, I hook up my little home-made compressor to help out (made from a 5-gallon portable air tank, an electric motor, an automotive A/C compressor and an electronic pressure regulator--very portable and makes 125 PSI to run a spiker or finish nailer). It's ugly, but it works really well:

Compressor.jpg


Here it is next to its big brother:
After_6.jpg


If you're worried about space but can afford a bigger compressor (like the 60-gallon unit shown above), definitely make room for the bigger compressor. I promise you'll never regret having excess capacity and the space difference is negligible.
 

bmwpower

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Matt Harwood said:
I usually recommend that people buy as much compressor as they can afford. You'll never regret having one that's too big, only one that's too small. I have an 80-gallon, 7.5 horsepower Husky (though it seems a little over-rated relative to what it can do in the real world), and I still wish I had more capacity. Certain air tools like die grinders and cut-off wheels are air hogs and my compressor runs almost constantly when I run one of those tools for more than 3-4 minutes. When I run my sandblaster, I hook up my little home-made compressor to help out (made from a 5-gallon portable air tank, an electric motor, an automotive A/C compressor and an electronic pressure regulator--very portable and makes 125 PSI to run a spiker or finish nailer). It's ugly, but it works really well:

Compressor.jpg


Here it is next to its big brother:
After_6.jpg




If you're worried about space but can afford a bigger compressor (like the 60-gallon unit shown above), definitely make room for the bigger compressor. I promise you'll never regret having excess capacity and the space difference is negligible.

You've got an 80 and the compressor is still running constantly?!? What's the CFM of your compressor
 

Major Ramifications

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Earlier on in this thread, a couple of guys said that they would not buy a compressor from Harbor Freight. Why not?
They sell good brands like Campbell-Hausfeld at competitive prices and the employees at the store near us are very friendly. I wouldn't go the mail order route, though, unless there was no place that I could go pick one up.
 

byrdman

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CFM's man! CFM'S!

Since it hasn't really been emphasized, I wanted to add something. The spec you can't afford to underemphasize is CFM. Not to say that other features aren't important (brand, warranty, cast iron pump, splash-lubricated, etc), but CFM should be carefully and specially considered. It won't "lie" to you about compressor performance.

Don't use the tank capacity or the HP of the motor to judge the "working power" of a compressor. While HP is certainly related to the output a compressor is capable of, it does not directly measure air output. As an example, there are 5HP units that will outperform 7.5HP units.

Also, be careful when comparing compressors based on tank capacity. It doesn't matter how big the tank is, eventually the pressure drops and it needs to be filled up again. The question is how the RATES of input vs output compare. If the output of air (ex. die grinder) exceeds the input(compressor motor), the compressor will continously struggle to fill the tank, whether the tank is 5 gallons or 80 gallons. Now you've got to stop work and wait on it each time the motor kicks on. True, a larger tank gives you more time between refills, but wouldn't you rather have a compressor with enough oomph to kick on, fill up and shut off- all whle you continue working? That's what CFM gets you. It measures the volume of air doing the work. Very important!
 

bmwpower

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Major Ramifications said:
Earlier on in this thread, a couple of guys said that they would not buy a compressor from Harbor Freight. Why not?
They sell good brands like Campbell-Hausfeld at competitive prices and the employees at the store near us are very friendly. I wouldn't go the mail order route, though, unless there was no place that I could go pick one up.

I was referring to a lot of the offshore brands that they sell. I've been to a Harbor Freight store. Walked out with a blowgun for a couple of bucks... looked pretty nice until I dropped it on my workbench and the tip broke off.

They had a LOT of stuff, but most of it, in my opinion, was junk. I definitely would not buy a compressor from them. I don't like the quality of product they sell. Why take the chance with an inferior compressor that may blow up or fail in a year? Have you ever seen the welds on products made in China?

Campbell-Hausfield is a different story. A big company with certain "standards". I'd be surprised if the CH compressors they sell are not refurbs.
 

Matt Harwood

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byrdman said:
Since it hasn't really been emphasized, I wanted to add something. The spec you can't afford to underemphasize is CFM. Not to say that other features aren't important (brand, warranty, cast iron pump, splash-lubricated, etc), but CFM should be carefully and specially considered. It won't "lie" to you about compressor performance.

Don't use the tank capacity or the HP of the motor to judge the "working power" of a compressor. While HP is certainly related to the output a compressor is capable of, it does not directly measure air output. As an example, there are 5HP units that will outperform 7.5HP units.

Also, be careful when comparing compressors based on tank capacity. It doesn't matter how big the tank is, eventually the pressure drops and it needs to be filled up again. The question is how the RATES of input vs output compare. If the output of air (ex. die grinder) exceeds the input(compressor motor), the compressor will continously struggle to fill the tank, whether the tank is 5 gallons or 80 gallons. Now you've got to stop work and wait on it each time the motor kicks on. True, a larger tank gives you more time between refills, but wouldn't you rather have a compressor with enough oomph to kick on, fill up and shut off- all whle you continue working? That's what CFM gets you. It measures the volume of air doing the work. Very important!

I think this bears repeating, so I quoted it in its entirety here.

CFM is the only spec you should be looking at when comparing compressors. And make sure the ratings are at similar pressures. A 15 CFM @ 40 PSI compressor is likely lower-performing than an 11 CFM @ 90 PSI compressor. Tank size is a good gauge of reserve capacity, but not overall performance. And as byrdman said, neither is horsepower.

BMWPower, this is exactly why I think my Husky compressor is overrated. I bought it because it is rated at 15.5 CFM @ 90 PSI (wow, pretty good for Home Depot!), but also at 7.5 HP. In the real world of my garage, however, I don't think it is flowing that much air (at least it doesn't seem to because 15.5 CFM should more than keep up with my 5 CFM die grinder). Perhaps it would flow that much air if it had a true 7.5 HP motor, but the one on it only draws 23 amps, making it about a 3.5-4 HP motor (possibly 7.5 HP spiking at start up, but that's it). Maybe they meant that a true 7.5 HP motor would turn the pump fast enough to make 15.5 CFM @ 90 PSI, I don't know.

I have it set to kick on at 110 PSI and kick off at 150, and an in-line regulator, which I usually run at about 90 PSI (less for sandblasting, more for the impact wrench). It should keep up with most of my tools, but often can't. I blame it on the fact that it is a $800 compressor where comparable units from other makers are $400-600 more for similar specs. You get what you pay for...

My next compressor will be an industrial unit from a reputable brand like Ingersoll-Rand, Quincy or Eaton.
 

bmwpower

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Agreed.

Another spec I wish they would list for each compressor is sound pressure level.

The Lowe's compressor I saw yesterday had them listed on the spec card. I believe the one listed above had a SPL of 79dB.
 

bmwpower

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danski0224 said:
You do not have to drain the contents of the compressor after each use. The only thing you need to do is drain the water from the tank, the air can stay in the tank. :thumbup:

Open the valve, let the water out, close the valve. :)


Is it really a good idea to keep the tank filled 24/7? I would think this would put stress on the system and possibly pose an explosion hazard, no?
 
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Wolverine

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Whew, a lot of info! What compressors do you recommend with "impressive stats?"



Also, raise your hand if your running your Air Compressor off of a 220v line.

Did you need to 'convert it' from 110v to 220v after you purchased it???????
 
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Wolverine

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If running 220v, is a 12-3 with ground wire sufficient enough to run most compressors???

I know this is variable depending upon the amperage draw of the compressor, but do you think 12-3 with gound would work with 'most' compressors????




............ probably a silly question
 

ranger_dood

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To answer your first question, compressors are usually EITHER 110v or 220v... not a possibility of being both. 220 is typically more efficient, so for a larger compressor look for 220.

Wire size depends on the draw of the compressor. That also determines the breaker required in the box.
 
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Wolverine

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Reason I asked:

My neighbor purchased a small 20 gallon Campbell Hausfeld compressor that came from the store using 110v. He made some "internal adjustments??" as well as switching the cord for 220v hookup? He reports doing this utilizing the explicit instructions in the manual provided by Campbell Hausfeld.


Yup, I question this myself! But there it is, a small 20 gallon CH compressor running on 220v (home made cord and everything). It does'nt hurt that he's an electrical engineer for GM I guess.
 

stioc

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I've had this Craftsman (175PSI, 25 gallon) unit for about 2yrs now and so far no problems. I don't use it all the time so it hasn't lived a hard by any means. Its fairly quiet, very portable and does the job quite well for my purposes.

Of course, the bigger the tank the better but keep in mind that cheap tools tend to use more CFM than good quality tools. Yes, the compressor kicks on quite a bit if I use the harbor freight sander, grider etc constantly but my HF impact wrench for some reason doesn't drain the tank as quickly. Paint guns also require a big tank...just something to keep in mind.
 

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bmwpower

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Wolverine said:
If running 220v, is a 12-3 with ground wire sufficient enough to run most compressors???

I know this is variable depending upon the amperage draw of the compressor, but do you think 12-3 with gound would work with 'most' compressors????




............ probably a silly question

Most compressors I've seen that run 220v are over 20amps, so 12 gauge wire will not suffice. 12 guage is only good up to 20 amps. For up to 30 amps, you'll need 10-2 (10-3 not needed)...2 hots and a ground, no neutral in a 220v compressor.
 

byrdman

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Hey Matt, about your compressor possibly being overrated- check out this info:

(snipped from Northern Hydraulics' website):
How do I determine my CFM Requirements?
The chart below includes some common air tools and their average CFM measurements. Reference this chart to determine what continuous CFM rating is required of your air compressor. Air tools are often rated as “Average CFM.” “Average CFM” is typically based on a 25% duty cycle (15 seconds out of a min.). This sometimes creates a problem with tools that are used on a continuos basis (ex. orbital sanders, die grinders, etc). Nailers and impact wrenches typically don't have the same problem since by their nature are used more intermittently. If you plan on using an air tool on a continuous basis, it is a good idea to multiply the “Average CFM” x 4 to get a continuous CFM rating for the tool.
(They list the "mini die grinder" as needing 4-6 CFM@90psi. Click on link above to see chart).


Wolverine: You aren't likely to find a compressor with "impressive stats" (my version of "impressive", anyway!) running off 110V. The good ones will be 220 and up. But, if you are pumping up tires and running the occasional sander, a 110 unit may be all that's required. Size your purchase based on the tools you want to run(see link above)

I don't know that #12 wire will run "most" compressors, but it will run some. To determine what size wire you need, start by finding the metal tag on the compressor motor, it will tell you the amperage draw and voltage required. For general purpose use, here's a chart copied from an Ingersoll-Rand Owner's Manual. Keep in mind that these specs are with respect to Ingersoll-Rand's HP ratings, whose motors are probably closer to to the actual rated HP than some brands, hence the heavy-duty wire. Also, you only need two hots and a ground for a 220 compressor (12/2 w/ gnd, not 12/3 w/ gnd).

amperage.gif
 

danski0224

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bmwpower said:
Is it really a good idea to keep the tank filled 24/7? I would think this would put stress on the system and possibly pose an explosion hazard, no?

Why not keep the tank filled? Certainly less stress there than to release the pressure and refill it, right? You just paid to fill the tank, so why release it?

I doubt it would explode if it was maintained properly (draining the water), barring any structural flaws. Probably just as likely to explode when you are using it.

One thing I would do is cut the power, preventing any problems if the pressure switch broke unattended. A valve between the compressor and the shop also sounds good.
 
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