1920-60s DELTA / ROCKWELL picture thread - Post your Delta!
- Thread starter Hoorn
- Start date
bmwrd0
Well-known member
I ran across this old bit of Delta ephemera the other day, not even realizing what I had brought home at first:
Seems to be dated 1950, so should fit right in on this thread. Some more pics
Not very long, in paper or details, but it is an interesting artifact.
Seems to be dated 1950, so should fit right in on this thread. Some more pics
Not very long, in paper or details, but it is an interesting artifact.
Thanks Hoorn. The feet were in really good shape. They have very little evidence of being dragged across flooring over the years. The serial number shows it as a 1948 production year.
ETA: I've looked through images on the VM site and don't recall seeing the switch location up near top like on this one. The hole for the switch is a machined slotted hole. The person that had it before me ran a small machine shop business so I'm guessing that is their handy work.
ETA: I've looked through images on the VM site and don't recall seeing the switch location up near top like on this one. The hole for the switch is a machined slotted hole. The person that had it before me ran a small machine shop business so I'm guessing that is their handy work.
genog
Well-known member
I may have this in the wrong thread as this is a Porter Cable/Rockwell not Rockwell/Delta.
For what it's worth.....
I bought this Model 136 sander from a very nice gentleman from Craigslist
It looks great, but darn it, it doesn't work very well.....
Enjoy, meanwhile I will look for a more appropriate thread...
For what it's worth.....
I bought this Model 136 sander from a very nice gentleman from Craigslist
It looks great, but darn it, it doesn't work very well.....
Enjoy, meanwhile I will look for a more appropriate thread...
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@genog you're in the right department brother, Delta Rockwell purchased Porter-Cable in 1960. In 1981 when Rockwell International became more focused on defense contracts, they sold both Delta and Porter-Cable to Pentair. It's great to see the variety of brand names that Delta Rockwell brought under their umbrella.
This includes Callandar Foundry/Beaver, Walker Turner, Yates-American, Duro and Penncraft. Delta Rockwell/Rockwell International was a truly diverse, massive company.
This includes Callandar Foundry/Beaver, Walker Turner, Yates-American, Duro and Penncraft. Delta Rockwell/Rockwell International was a truly diverse, massive company.
I just read your post about the speed difference between the 4 or 5 raised lines running through the Delta badge...
The 220 estate sale DP I aquired I wanted to use it on metal and thus I desire the slow speed.
I quickly went out to the garage this morning to check the front pully guard...
Was happy to see it had 5 cast lines...
Here is some information regarding the Delta Rockwell retractable casters.
From the 1930s through the early 50s, Delta offered solid cast iron casters to move machines around that were attached to the open steel stand. These were very beefy, but required a fairly decent cant of the machine to engage the wheels. This meant you had to tip back towards your torso sometimes 200 pounds or more and balance it while going from one side of the shop to the other. Not the best mobile device...but they sure look cool!
Introduced with zero fanfare, the retractable casters appeared first on this saw/jointer combo unit in the 1955 Delta catalog. Although by the late 1950s they appeared on most machines with open stands in catalog photos, the retractable casters were never included, always noted as an accessory.
Although the parts remained essentially unchanged throughout its offering, the shaft length was offered in numerous different sizes depending on the open stand you were using.
The retractable casters were designed to always be mounted along the narrow side of the open stand, and there are as many different models as there are different splayed foot stands. Here is a Delta manual describing some of the numerous shaft lengths with catalog reference numbers required for a given machine/open stand unit.
Here is an exploded view from a Delta manual. It can be seen that by depressing the foot pedal, a steel cam will rotate and push the caster stem down until it is fully seated. With the wheels pushing down, this will slightly raise the open stand off the ground so it can be rolled across the workshop.
Below is a view of the shaft and cam as it came off a unit supporting a scroll saw. The cam is locked onto the shaft with a roll pin. Note the wear pattern on the cam from the top of the rounded caster stem. Note also that the foot pedal would be secured onto the shaft with a roll pin.
This image shows how the unit was attached to the bottom of the open stand. The slightly smaller splayed feet were attached via nut and bolt to the inside of the stand splayed feet. This made it quite secure.
And here is that same complete unit refurbished. The axle running through the caster to the caster mount would have originally been solid pins that were press fit. I had to replace two of the hard rubber casters which had large gouges and had to then use a nut and bolt. To ensure the inner wheel rode on smooth steel and not the threaded portion of the bolt, I bought longer bolts, cut off that amount of thread not needed, and ran what was left through a die.
Here is a close up of the stem and mount, as well as what the original axle would have looked like vs my nut and bolt replacement. Note also how much material the original wheel had vs a modern replacement.
Of interest, although introduced in 1955 when the Delta name was still very much a part of Delta Rockwell, the foot pedals on the retractable casters always had just the Rockwell "r" cast onto its face. This was perhaps an early indicator of Rockwell's desire to eventually phase out the Delta name, which of course did occur.
From the 1930s through the early 50s, Delta offered solid cast iron casters to move machines around that were attached to the open steel stand. These were very beefy, but required a fairly decent cant of the machine to engage the wheels. This meant you had to tip back towards your torso sometimes 200 pounds or more and balance it while going from one side of the shop to the other. Not the best mobile device...but they sure look cool!
Introduced with zero fanfare, the retractable casters appeared first on this saw/jointer combo unit in the 1955 Delta catalog. Although by the late 1950s they appeared on most machines with open stands in catalog photos, the retractable casters were never included, always noted as an accessory.
Although the parts remained essentially unchanged throughout its offering, the shaft length was offered in numerous different sizes depending on the open stand you were using.
The retractable casters were designed to always be mounted along the narrow side of the open stand, and there are as many different models as there are different splayed foot stands. Here is a Delta manual describing some of the numerous shaft lengths with catalog reference numbers required for a given machine/open stand unit.
Here is an exploded view from a Delta manual. It can be seen that by depressing the foot pedal, a steel cam will rotate and push the caster stem down until it is fully seated. With the wheels pushing down, this will slightly raise the open stand off the ground so it can be rolled across the workshop.
Below is a view of the shaft and cam as it came off a unit supporting a scroll saw. The cam is locked onto the shaft with a roll pin. Note the wear pattern on the cam from the top of the rounded caster stem. Note also that the foot pedal would be secured onto the shaft with a roll pin.
This image shows how the unit was attached to the bottom of the open stand. The slightly smaller splayed feet were attached via nut and bolt to the inside of the stand splayed feet. This made it quite secure.
And here is that same complete unit refurbished. The axle running through the caster to the caster mount would have originally been solid pins that were press fit. I had to replace two of the hard rubber casters which had large gouges and had to then use a nut and bolt. To ensure the inner wheel rode on smooth steel and not the threaded portion of the bolt, I bought longer bolts, cut off that amount of thread not needed, and ran what was left through a die.
Here is a close up of the stem and mount, as well as what the original axle would have looked like vs my nut and bolt replacement. Note also how much material the original wheel had vs a modern replacement.
Of interest, although introduced in 1955 when the Delta name was still very much a part of Delta Rockwell, the foot pedals on the retractable casters always had just the Rockwell "r" cast onto its face. This was perhaps an early indicator of Rockwell's desire to eventually phase out the Delta name, which of course did occur.
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Just wanted to add that the foot pedal on my retractable casters (late 50s maybe, at least thats what the previous owner said was when they bought the saw) is nickel plated, not painted. Not sure when that was offered and when they started just painting them.
i also replaced the rubber wheels, but theyre a little soft. (where did you source your wheels?) Since I have a narrow table on a 6” jointer, one thing I realized is that you have to be careful and not put too much pressure on the short side of the table. For example when you are turning the table. It gets a little tippy with that big weight on top. Good thing the motor is heavy and sits low.
i also replaced the rubber wheels, but theyre a little soft. (where did you source your wheels?) Since I have a narrow table on a 6” jointer, one thing I realized is that you have to be careful and not put too much pressure on the short side of the table. For example when you are turning the table. It gets a little tippy with that big weight on top. Good thing the motor is heavy and sits low.
I'm getting ready to start restoring my 24" Delta scroll saw and some parts are made from painted, peeling zamak...
The upper head casting has a lot of hard to get to nooks and crannies...
What is the preferred cleaning method to remove the old paint without compromising the zamak?
I understand I should stay away from acid based chemistry...
Simple Green makes a purple product that's safe for aluminum?
I believe there is a paint remover used in aviation that's safe for aluminum... Zamak is mostly zinc...
I'm not wanting to go the soda blast route...
Obviously muriatic acid, vinegar, citric acid, and Citristrip shouldn't be considered...
Any suggestions?
The upper head casting has a lot of hard to get to nooks and crannies...
What is the preferred cleaning method to remove the old paint without compromising the zamak?
I understand I should stay away from acid based chemistry...
Simple Green makes a purple product that's safe for aluminum?
I believe there is a paint remover used in aviation that's safe for aluminum... Zamak is mostly zinc...
I'm not wanting to go the soda blast route...
Obviously muriatic acid, vinegar, citric acid, and Citristrip shouldn't be considered...
Any suggestions?
@bigmaq can you post pictures of your nickel plated retractable casters please.
I'm inclined to believe that a previous owner, sometime during the last 70 years may have had that foot pedal custom nickel plated. That doesn't sound like a treatment Delta Rockwell would have done in the 1950-60s when they used baked on enamel for virtually everything. But anything is possible.
I'm inclined to believe that a previous owner, sometime during the last 70 years may have had that foot pedal custom nickel plated. That doesn't sound like a treatment Delta Rockwell would have done in the 1950-60s when they used baked on enamel for virtually everything. But anything is possible.
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EvilW
Active member
Thanks again for the tips! I was able to remove the Craftsman MSA from the Delta easily after loosening the Allen screw. I am now moving on turning the motor to the correct position and reversing the wires per the instructions that you shared. I have found a cover plate on the Bay that looks like it will fit my motor. The auction says "R.I." motor and yet it looks correct for my 1946 Double Duty motor. The threaded casting on my motor that receives the cover bolt is broken. My question now is should I spring for the cover and try to repair the threaded casting on my motor or look for a whole new Bell area w/cover? I am not sure how scarce these parts are. Thanks again for the guidance. -EW@EvilW on top of the cast iron body of the MSA, you should see a notch, and in that notch you will find a set screw. Back out the set screw and the inner body and outer sleeve should slide out of the column unless it is rusted in there, or is a very tight fit. If that is the case you may have to tip the drill press over and use a sturdy length of wood to run through the column and tap it out from the bottom. I've never had to do that, but I've never had a Craftsman MSA in a Delta column and I'm not sure how snug it is in there.
Set screw location.
This is the cover on "The Bay"
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I actually read a reference somewhere to the Delta foot pedal being nickel plated. Here are the pics. When I first got them I thought the paint was peeling, but it was peeling strangely. Also, it had a greenish tint, almost like what you get when copper ages. When you look at the pics you can see the peeling.
I found the reference (I attached listing's pic also - last pic below): Was to a Worthpoint listing: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-delta-rockwell-retractable-1972737377
"This is a Rockwell retractable caster attachment set No. 49-359 in excellent condition.The set it complete with all parts necessary to install on your vintage Delta or Rockwell machine stand. The set includes the 4 leg attachments with the wheels, cams and shafts, foot levers and required hardware.I previously listed this set as NOS and discovered that it appeared lightly used. I re-examined the set and noted some dirt on the wheels and a few scuff marks on the bottom of the cast iron feet. As a result, I cancelled that listing and have re-listed the set accurately. It appears to be very lightly used, no damage or issues.This set has the nickel plated foot levers which are somewhat unique and not often found; especially in this immaculate condition...."
@EvilW if the measurements are correct and it will fit, go ahead and grab it and fabricate a threaded flange. Most steel epoxies can accept a thread providing you don't torque down on it too hard.
@bigmaq the close up pictures you provide are compelling. I have reached out to a few contacts that are steeped in Delta lore to provide more insight into this.
@bigmaq the close up pictures you provide are compelling. I have reached out to a few contacts that are steeped in Delta lore to provide more insight into this.
Here’s my addition to the this thread.
From what I was told on another site it is a Rockwell/Delta 14” bandsaw built in 1953 in Tupelo, Miss. in 1953. ? You guys may know differently.
Bought it at a barn sale in about 1992 after it was used in a sign shop to cut aluminum. All the castings were full of aluminum powder, dog food, and corn!
It really wasn’t a bad rebuild. Parts weren’t hard to get.
Lots of rust removal and paint but nothing unexpected.
I had to replace the motor that was missing when I bought it.
The replacement motor is a TEFC, 3/4hp, Baldor
I wish I could find one of the beautiful belt cover like some of you have.
The cover I fabbed up was one of my first sheet metal projects. Functional but not pretty.
From what I was told on another site it is a Rockwell/Delta 14” bandsaw built in 1953 in Tupelo, Miss. in 1953. ? You guys may know differently.
Bought it at a barn sale in about 1992 after it was used in a sign shop to cut aluminum. All the castings were full of aluminum powder, dog food, and corn!
It really wasn’t a bad rebuild. Parts weren’t hard to get.
Lots of rust removal and paint but nothing unexpected.
I had to replace the motor that was missing when I bought it.
The replacement motor is a TEFC, 3/4hp, Baldor
I wish I could find one of the beautiful belt cover like some of you have.
The cover I fabbed up was one of my first sheet metal projects. Functional but not pretty.
@Jgaz with a serial number like BQ1585 I would think it falls within 1957. I'm not clear how another site was able to get 1953 out of that.
This was the alpha-numeric used by the Tupelo factory
Year From To
1951 AA-100 - AB-7478
1952 AA-7480 - AJ-2774
1953 AJ-2775 - AX-9470
1954 AX-9471 - BE-4906
1955 BE-4907 - BL-9999
1956 BM-100 - BO-9822
1957 BO-9823 - BU-8750
1958 BU-8751 - CC-662
This was the alpha-numeric used by the Tupelo factory
Year From To
1951 AA-100 - AB-7478
1952 AA-7480 - AJ-2774
1953 AJ-2775 - AX-9470
1954 AX-9471 - BE-4906
1955 BE-4907 - BL-9999
1956 BM-100 - BO-9822
1957 BO-9823 - BU-8750
1958 BU-8751 - CC-662
Thank you sir!
That is exactly the kind of information that I hoped this post would generate.
rd65
Well-known member
Not sure if I have posted this on here before. Got this from my mom's husband. He also gave me his old Wen All Saw Model 909.
@rd65 that circular saw is in fantastic condition. Introduced originally by Porter-Cable in the early sixties, after Delta snapped up Porter-Cable in 1960, they eventually rebranded it as their own. A very complete set you have.
Here it is in 1964 still branded as Porter-Cable. By 1966 it would have said Rockwell.
Here it is in 1964 still branded as Porter-Cable. By 1966 it would have said Rockwell.
Mintgrun
Well-known member
That box looks familiar!
Thank you for the information, Hoorn. I'd been wondering how old this router was. Slightly older than me, apparently.
I used this old table saw to support a long railing I made in the shop.
The adjustable table height is an odd feature when cutting wood, because the outfeed table needs to follow along; but using the saw as a work surface makes that variability quite useful and the tilt adjustment dialed it into being parallel with the other table.
I'm a fan of the little Delta 9" table saws and have three of them now, plus one eight incher. Two are bolted together and I've fantasized about making it threee in a row, but the space is limited.
The other nine-incher has the two cast iron wings, which would cap the ends of a triple-saw arrangement nicely.
It's probably a good thing I don't have a bigger shop space.
Thank you for the information, Hoorn. I'd been wondering how old this router was. Slightly older than me, apparently.
I used this old table saw to support a long railing I made in the shop.
The adjustable table height is an odd feature when cutting wood, because the outfeed table needs to follow along; but using the saw as a work surface makes that variability quite useful and the tilt adjustment dialed it into being parallel with the other table.
I'm a fan of the little Delta 9" table saws and have three of them now, plus one eight incher. Two are bolted together and I've fantasized about making it threee in a row, but the space is limited.
The other nine-incher has the two cast iron wings, which would cap the ends of a triple-saw arrangement nicely.
It's probably a good thing I don't have a bigger shop space.
Mintgrun
Well-known member
My pleasure. Thank you for the kind words and for forgiving the as-found condition of my old Delta tools. I do dial them in and clean up the tables to some extent; but wabi-sabi makes more and more sense to me the older I get.
I do appreciate seeing the beautiful restorations done in this thread. There are (were) so many wonderful shades of gray, but I also (sheephisly) embrace a little brown mixed in.
Believe it or not, there's a saw for every fence there, aside from one extra (aluminum) bandsaw fence and a newer Makita table saw fence. I lucked into two bandsaw fences at a Habitat store recently and took them both home. You're right though. I don't need another fence. The casting at the business end of the tilting table saw's fence is wonderfully curvaceous. I should dig that one out for a photo.
There are two turret-style Delta radial arm saws residing in the back of the shop and a couple 4" Delta jointers hiding in the corners of the photos above. The 6" jointer gets used the most now, but the four-inchers are cool little tools. I gave a much earlier four inch jointer to a friend years ago and just learned that it's coming back to me. I'm eager to share photos of that tool too.
Thank you for starting this Delta thread and filling it with so much information. I'm a huge fan of the brand.
Tom
I do appreciate seeing the beautiful restorations done in this thread. There are (were) so many wonderful shades of gray, but I also (sheephisly) embrace a little brown mixed in.
Believe it or not, there's a saw for every fence there, aside from one extra (aluminum) bandsaw fence and a newer Makita table saw fence. I lucked into two bandsaw fences at a Habitat store recently and took them both home. You're right though. I don't need another fence. The casting at the business end of the tilting table saw's fence is wonderfully curvaceous. I should dig that one out for a photo.
There are two turret-style Delta radial arm saws residing in the back of the shop and a couple 4" Delta jointers hiding in the corners of the photos above. The 6" jointer gets used the most now, but the four-inchers are cool little tools. I gave a much earlier four inch jointer to a friend years ago and just learned that it's coming back to me. I'm eager to share photos of that tool too.
Thank you for starting this Delta thread and filling it with so much information. I'm a huge fan of the brand.
Tom
Mintgrun
Well-known member
I picked up the little tiny 4" jointer today. It's an oldie. It's missing the blade guard/spring and knives as well as the little blocks that keep them in place. The overall length is 20 inches, not including the front end of the fence.
Here is a link showing a nice one and the write up says it's listed in the 1930-'31 catalog as "Delta 4-Inch Ball-Bearing Jointer" No. 301." http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=12212
I also picked up this little wood lathe. Here it is in all its as-found glory. I believe the badge indicates 1938.
It's the 11" Timken Bearing lathe, which was their economy line; as seen here, in the 1940 catalog.
One more shot after dusting it off.
Here is a link showing a nice one and the write up says it's listed in the 1930-'31 catalog as "Delta 4-Inch Ball-Bearing Jointer" No. 301." http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=12212
I also picked up this little wood lathe. Here it is in all its as-found glory. I believe the badge indicates 1938.
It's the 11" Timken Bearing lathe, which was their economy line; as seen here, in the 1940 catalog.
Delta power tools, 1940, catalog Q-1 : Delta Manufacturing Company : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive
43 p., ill., 28 cm., trade catalog
archive.org
One more shot after dusting it off.
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JohnPa
Member
@Mintgrun terrific and uncommon example you got there. Although short, it's quite beefy! Those old round 1930s "Delta quality tools" badges are my favorite. They must have used lead and asbestos in those old water-slide decals as so many are still vibrant and in great shape. Things were just made so well back then..
doranviolins
Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2023
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- 13
Hi all! Hoorn found me on Instagram and thought I might enjoy this thread! Wow! I surely have and it’s lovely to see all the Delta eye candy and read the stories.
Hoorn also asked me to post about my machines, and he specifically asked that I make a separate post about each machine; so that’s just what I’ll do.
I think it’s safe to say that I’m a Delta guy, and I have eight machines I’d like to share with you! Stay tuned, grab a cup or flagon of whatever is your preference and join me on a tour of my workshop…
A bit about me: I’m a full time violin and cello maker. I went to violin making school right out of high school and I’ve been doing this ever since- over 20 years now. I have a small shop in my home near Seattle where I build my instruments- from logs to varnish. All my machines are vintage Deltas made from 1936-1968
Hoorn also asked me to post about my machines, and he specifically asked that I make a separate post about each machine; so that’s just what I’ll do.
I think it’s safe to say that I’m a Delta guy, and I have eight machines I’d like to share with you! Stay tuned, grab a cup or flagon of whatever is your preference and join me on a tour of my workshop…
A bit about me: I’m a full time violin and cello maker. I went to violin making school right out of high school and I’ve been doing this ever since- over 20 years now. I have a small shop in my home near Seattle where I build my instruments- from logs to varnish. All my machines are vintage Deltas made from 1936-1968
doranviolins
Member
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- Mar 28, 2023
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- 13
The first old machine I bought was a 1962 6” Delta Jointer. I saw an ad on Craigslist and I drove about 2 hours to meet the guy at his shop. He loved old machines as well, and had a shop full of old tools that really “set the hook” in me for old machines. He had restored the jointer and it was plug-and-play. The cast iron base was a cherry on top! It’s got a 3/4 hp capacitor motor, the only cap motor in my machines.
After I had used it for a number of years I decided that I wanted to upgrade the cutterhead to one with spiral indexable knives, which I’ve been so happy with.
The fence had warped just a little, and had a tiny twist to it. I ended up taking the fence to a really cool machine shop in Seattle that’s been around since before WW2 and they had a large enough metal planer that could flatten the fence. That’s how the fence would have been machined by Delta, and it leaves a characteristic tool pattern that makes the wood slide easier.
The last little modification I made was to put a 4” dust collection port in the dust chute.
After I had used it for a number of years I decided that I wanted to upgrade the cutterhead to one with spiral indexable knives, which I’ve been so happy with.
The fence had warped just a little, and had a tiny twist to it. I ended up taking the fence to a really cool machine shop in Seattle that’s been around since before WW2 and they had a large enough metal planer that could flatten the fence. That’s how the fence would have been machined by Delta, and it leaves a characteristic tool pattern that makes the wood slide easier.
The last little modification I made was to put a 4” dust collection port in the dust chute.
@doranviolins have been eagerly awaiting your arrival brother!
Fellow Delta fans, strap in, not only is @doranviolins an award winning maker of fine string instruments, but a die hard vintage Delta user. His well maintained machines are all top tier. Stay tuned!
Fellow Delta fans, strap in, not only is @doranviolins an award winning maker of fine string instruments, but a die hard vintage Delta user. His well maintained machines are all top tier. Stay tuned!
doranviolins
Member
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- Mar 28, 2023
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- 13
The next tool that I found was my 1946 14” Bandsaw. This machine was used in a woodshop up near Everett that was closing. The guy wanted $250 for it! I called right away when I saw the ad, but I was second in line. I waited by the phone and, miraculously, the first guy never showed up. I was in my car on my way with cash as fast as I could move!
The bandsaw was in good condition, and had the cast iron base to match my jointer! It even had a cast iron belt guard.
I’ve done quite a bit to this saw to “hot rod” it and make it as accurate as I can. This is my daily user and what I use for resawing.
I replaced all the bearings, added the resaw height attachment, a new tension spring, and added a 3/4 hp Repulsion Induction Delta motor. It’s one of the very old huge ones, and it nearly didn’t fit in the base! The original motor was a 1/2 hp RI, which I now use on my other saw. The RI motors punch above their weight, so that’s plenty for my needs. The saw came with aluminum wheels, but I managed to find a set of cast iron Delta wheels to install. I think the cast iron wheels were the best wheels Delta ever made. The last modification I made was to speed up the blade slightly by switching the drive pulley to a smaller diameter. The extra speed helps with resawing.
The bandsaw was in good condition, and had the cast iron base to match my jointer! It even had a cast iron belt guard.
I’ve done quite a bit to this saw to “hot rod” it and make it as accurate as I can. This is my daily user and what I use for resawing.
I replaced all the bearings, added the resaw height attachment, a new tension spring, and added a 3/4 hp Repulsion Induction Delta motor. It’s one of the very old huge ones, and it nearly didn’t fit in the base! The original motor was a 1/2 hp RI, which I now use on my other saw. The RI motors punch above their weight, so that’s plenty for my needs. The saw came with aluminum wheels, but I managed to find a set of cast iron Delta wheels to install. I think the cast iron wheels were the best wheels Delta ever made. The last modification I made was to speed up the blade slightly by switching the drive pulley to a smaller diameter. The extra speed helps with resawing.
doranviolins
Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2023
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- 13
The 1942 Delta 17” Drill Press might be my favorite machine, but don’t tell the others. lol
When I got this drill press it was in bad shape cosmetically- a piece of rust and overpaint, but it was mechanically sound. It even had the wide production table! I stripped and painted every part, polished every nut and bolt, replaced all the bearings, and restored the badges and decals. (Yes, that’s a reproduction patent decal I made, and yes all the patent numbers are correct.
)
I can date it to 1942 because it still has the cardboard serial number plate. Delta used those during the war when metal was in short supply and it’s pretty rare for them to survive.
I managed to find a stub spindle assembly and J33 chuck, which are themselves kind of rare, and cobble together a full foot feed assembly. All told there are pieces from 6 different drill presses in this machine.
The original motor was 3-phase, which I didn’t (don’t) have, and so I found a period 120 v Delta to replace it with. I think if I did it again I would keep the 3-phase motor and run a variable phase converter, but the motor I have is still plenty more than I need. It’s a 1/2 HP repulsion induction motor. I had to swap a coil in the Cutler-Hammer switch to get it to work again, but luckily I was able to find a NOS part. I originally mounted the switch on the right because there was a pipe on the other side in my old shop, but now I just kind of like it on this side.
The story of the foot feed-
So, having acquired the drill press, I knew the one accessory I really wanted was the foot feed. I had a homemade foot feed involving rope and pulleys on my previous drill press, and I loved the idea of being able to have both my hands on the work, especially for some of the fragile violin and cello parts I work on this is really helpful.
But, they are not exactly thick on the ground. They are not unobtanium, but nearly so.
I watched ebay relentlessly to see if one came up and posted numerous want to buy ads on a old machine forum. Nothing. Then I saw a blurry picture of a Delta drill press for sale in Cleveland. I could just make out that it had the upper part of the foot feed- the half-moon gear and maybe the lever. This is really the heart of the foot feed and I figured I could Jerry-rig something that would work if only I had those parts.
I called and pleaded with the guy at the warehouse. He wasn’t interested. They didn’t ship parts and he wanted to sell the drill press. He wasn’t even sure what I wanted. Then he named a price in an attempt, I assume, to get me to go away, and I said ok.
So he pulled it off the machine and “helpfully” spray painted the entire thing-assembled.
Having found the upper parts, I redoubled my efforts to find the lower casting. They often get cracks in the casting and there’s a huge spring in there that is impossible to replace if it’s broken. I almost bought a casting that had been repaired, but I ended up getting one from a guy in Maryland who bought a drill press that only had the lower foot feed casting.
Then I had to fabricate all the linkage and stuff, but that was no big deal.
The final piece was the actual foot pedal. I ended up borrowing an original from a friend on the forum, shipping it to an Amish foundry in PA, and having them make like a dozen copies that I distributed to other folks in a big group order. The foundry doesn’t have email, obviously, so you ship them your part and write a letter explaining what you want.
The reproductions turned out beautifully. They are indistinguishable from the originals.
A little paint and some polishing and we had ourselves a working foot feed!
Originally the press had a M2 taper spindle. I never liked how far it stuck down from the body. If there is a flaw in the Delta 17” presses is that they’re a bit short, and that just compounds it by putting the work farther away. As I mentioned, I replaced it with a JT33 stub spindle that worked well for many years, but then I had an issue with the chuck jaws getting bell-mouthed and not holding small bits any more. After trying to rebuild the chuck, I decided to replace the spindle with a Hammerscale J3 stub spindle and a vintage Jacob’s 14M Superchuck.
She’s smooth as silk and the runout is about .002” at 6”- plenty good enough for my purposes.
These were really metal working drill presses, so it has an easy life with me in the violin shop.
When I got this drill press it was in bad shape cosmetically- a piece of rust and overpaint, but it was mechanically sound. It even had the wide production table! I stripped and painted every part, polished every nut and bolt, replaced all the bearings, and restored the badges and decals. (Yes, that’s a reproduction patent decal I made, and yes all the patent numbers are correct.
)I can date it to 1942 because it still has the cardboard serial number plate. Delta used those during the war when metal was in short supply and it’s pretty rare for them to survive.
I managed to find a stub spindle assembly and J33 chuck, which are themselves kind of rare, and cobble together a full foot feed assembly. All told there are pieces from 6 different drill presses in this machine.
The original motor was 3-phase, which I didn’t (don’t) have, and so I found a period 120 v Delta to replace it with. I think if I did it again I would keep the 3-phase motor and run a variable phase converter, but the motor I have is still plenty more than I need. It’s a 1/2 HP repulsion induction motor. I had to swap a coil in the Cutler-Hammer switch to get it to work again, but luckily I was able to find a NOS part. I originally mounted the switch on the right because there was a pipe on the other side in my old shop, but now I just kind of like it on this side.
The story of the foot feed-
So, having acquired the drill press, I knew the one accessory I really wanted was the foot feed. I had a homemade foot feed involving rope and pulleys on my previous drill press, and I loved the idea of being able to have both my hands on the work, especially for some of the fragile violin and cello parts I work on this is really helpful.
But, they are not exactly thick on the ground. They are not unobtanium, but nearly so.
I watched ebay relentlessly to see if one came up and posted numerous want to buy ads on a old machine forum. Nothing. Then I saw a blurry picture of a Delta drill press for sale in Cleveland. I could just make out that it had the upper part of the foot feed- the half-moon gear and maybe the lever. This is really the heart of the foot feed and I figured I could Jerry-rig something that would work if only I had those parts.
I called and pleaded with the guy at the warehouse. He wasn’t interested. They didn’t ship parts and he wanted to sell the drill press. He wasn’t even sure what I wanted. Then he named a price in an attempt, I assume, to get me to go away, and I said ok.
So he pulled it off the machine and “helpfully” spray painted the entire thing-assembled.
Having found the upper parts, I redoubled my efforts to find the lower casting. They often get cracks in the casting and there’s a huge spring in there that is impossible to replace if it’s broken. I almost bought a casting that had been repaired, but I ended up getting one from a guy in Maryland who bought a drill press that only had the lower foot feed casting.
Then I had to fabricate all the linkage and stuff, but that was no big deal.
The final piece was the actual foot pedal. I ended up borrowing an original from a friend on the forum, shipping it to an Amish foundry in PA, and having them make like a dozen copies that I distributed to other folks in a big group order. The foundry doesn’t have email, obviously, so you ship them your part and write a letter explaining what you want.
The reproductions turned out beautifully. They are indistinguishable from the originals.
A little paint and some polishing and we had ourselves a working foot feed!
Originally the press had a M2 taper spindle. I never liked how far it stuck down from the body. If there is a flaw in the Delta 17” presses is that they’re a bit short, and that just compounds it by putting the work farther away. As I mentioned, I replaced it with a JT33 stub spindle that worked well for many years, but then I had an issue with the chuck jaws getting bell-mouthed and not holding small bits any more. After trying to rebuild the chuck, I decided to replace the spindle with a Hammerscale J3 stub spindle and a vintage Jacob’s 14M Superchuck.
She’s smooth as silk and the runout is about .002” at 6”- plenty good enough for my purposes.
These were really metal working drill presses, so it has an easy life with me in the violin shop.
doranviolins
Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2023
- Messages
- 13
The 12” Disc Sander dates to 1945. I haven’t done anything to it- I haven’t even replaced the motor bearings, but I suppose I will at some point.
The motor is a Master 1/2 HP Repulsion induction motor, which I believe is original. The stand has a neat badge from the company in San Francisco that sold it originally.
I keep pretty fine sandpaper on this machine and use it mainly for precise work. The little jig is a micro-adjustable miter gauge that I built for sanding the ends of ebony fingerboards, or any time I need a very precise angle.
The motor is a Master 1/2 HP Repulsion induction motor, which I believe is original. The stand has a neat badge from the company in San Francisco that sold it originally.
I keep pretty fine sandpaper on this machine and use it mainly for precise work. The little jig is a micro-adjustable miter gauge that I built for sanding the ends of ebony fingerboards, or any time I need a very precise angle.
