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2023 Garage Sale Thread

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BlueBomber

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Beemer didn't mention what he paid for his two second-visit estate sale toolboxes, but I'm awarding a You **** for the extra effort. Sometimes, those closing day purchases that others passed by are even sweeter than opening rush finds.

Congrats to the LS love birds!

3bay ***** for the ginormous DBE alone! Great find!

Lots of good activity this weekend! I spent most of it on a bicycle with 9 Boy Scouts on an 80-mile shakedown weekend, prepping for a Pittsburgh-to-DC ride later this summer. We passed several yard sales on Saturday, but my calibrated tool-seeking Mark 1 eyeballs spotted nothing to stop for.
 

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alinc100

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Square says made in usa, anyone know who sold these in hammeted blue? The small screwdriver is the first goddell pratt screwdriver ive aquired.
PEC (Precision Engineering Corp.) would be my guess too but Beemer and RTM beat me to it.
 

Arne73

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The good thing about flea markets are $1 tools. The problem with flea markets are $1 tools. To wit, I didn't really want or need anything in today's haul (Lugz 2023_14), which has more dupes for flipping, potential trade bait, and 'research' buys than keepers.

2023_14.jpg

The oblong sliding-lid box at the top that savvy collectors will probably ID as Hinsdale is actually DASCO, which I already have.
The valve lifter is a Vlchek, which I already have.
The file holder is from Oregon and I only bought it because I have never seen one before and PNW tools are scarce here.
I have the Waldes-Truarc No. 1 snap ring pliers, but I'm not sure mine have the spring in it.
The brace speeder is a very early Blackhawk. Someone will need it.
The socket is a very early Snap-on strike-over. Someone will need it.
I'm kind of a sucker for gimmicky tools and the Pocket Socket has a 13-digit FSN on it.
The woodie at the bottom is a wartime GMTK-spec correct Phillips #2.
Those pocket sockets are handy and were a coveted item when I was a junior sailor. As I recall, the NSN was "discontinued w/o replacement" .
 

bmwrd0

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Beaver Fever Oregon
Speaking of the Kennedy I picked up yesterday, here is most of the good stuff:
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Highlights include Mitutoyo inside and outside calipers, Mitutoyo dial gauge, Starrett and Lufkin dial gauge sets, Tumico inside mic (sadly missing one of the bars, which I might have), Williams punches, misc. Starrett inc. 6" scale, scribe, sheet metal gauge, etc. carbide cutting tips, HSS bars, etc. Also, there was a ton of hex keys, all the way up to at least 1", plus metric sizes. The Kennedy itself is in good shape, with all of the dividers, only someone spilled red Dykem or the equivalent in the top compartment, and it is missing the pull for the drawer cover. When I picked it up I didn't know that the key was inside it, so happy with that. Not sure if I am going to part it out or not, I have too many Kennedy 520's and this one isn't quite good enough to sell.

Between the Kennedy and the Snap-on set, I paid $100, and there are still a few things I picked up in the deal out in my truck.
 

BFBOB

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3Bay's post of his huge Plomb 1 5/8 DOE reminded me of a wrench of mine I got a few years ago but never posted. A pawn shop find for $10- no name but at 1 7/8" it's bigger than Three's!! ... well, sort of. I've also added a 6" crescent wrench for scale, and my monster wrench comes up short - only 18" vs 24" for Three. Still, at 4 1/2 lbs, I think it qualifies as a monster.DSCN8857.JPGDSCN8858.JPG
 
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Smokeshow69

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It could be a Collins Legitimus. If the machete is original to the sheath, and vice versa, it would have the same mark as the sheath, plus the Collins logo and date on the tang. If so, it's an extraordinary find.
I’m really hoping so. I just looked it up on eBay 😳. Pictures of the blade. What would you recommend for me to remove the rust without taking it too far? And you were correct. The sheath says m2!
You can't be too sure, it might be a Collins Illegitimus.
Ha ha… I see what you did there. Your jokes are “too legit to quit”
 

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Shiftless

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I’m really hoping so. I just looked it up on eBay 😳. Pictures of the blade. What would you recommend for me to remove the rust without taking it too far?
I suggest getting a short scrap of PVC pipe big enough to drop that machete into. Duct tape one end closed if you don’t have a cap and fill with Evaporust. Within a few hours, the converted rust will be ready to brush off leaving you with pits. Then you can evaluate what to do next.
 
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Smokeshow69

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I suggest getting a short scrap of PVC pipe big enough to drop that machete into. Duct tape one end closed if you don’t have a cap and fill with Evaporust. Within a few hours, the converted rust will be ready to brush off leaving you with pits. Then you can evaluate what to do next.
I don’t know if it’s to the point of evaporust? I might try some steel wool and wd40 and go from there. I don’t want to over doing it and end up ruining it by removing all the age? Close up of most of the rust on the tang. It gets better when you see it up close
 

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Outlawmws

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Way oil is a bit thicker, Gun oil and MMO probably pretty close. ATF is likely lighter, and WD really light and I personally would shy away for a blued/oxide finish. Bare steel? Go for it...
 

RTM

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For bare steel, I would use sandpaper on a hard block, instead of steel wool. If there is any sort of an etching or imprint, like on a saw blade, it will keep the edges crisp.

WD 40 or mineral oil to float the swarf away.
 
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Smokeshow69

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For bare steel, I would use sandpaper on a hard block, instead of steel wool. If there is any sort of an etching or imprint, like on a saw blade, it will keep the edges crisp.

WD 40 or mineral oil to float the swarf away.
I might try a little sand paper on the flat part of the blade and see how that goes. Nothing really aggressive and then work my way up from there
 

LesserSon

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If you are looking to keep the age, do not sand it. The result will be bright steel. Try scraping the rust down with a softer steel, like a cheap stainless steel kitchen knife. Do it dry until the rust is broken up and doesn’t feel crunchy, then oil the blade. It will probably have a mottled dark finish.
 
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bluebolt

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I'm still working on the Bandit Shed but last Thursday I snuck off to a nearby estate sale. First photo from top left, a couple of Craftsman pliers, going clockwise next is a Crescent nippers and Diamond pliers, a couple of Klein's, no name needle nose, a Utica 470-5 circuit board pliers and last is a Palmer duckbill and PowerKraft pliers. Second photo is top to bottom, wire brush, yellow Snap On stubby, Proto, Stanley scribe, no name wood handle drivers, Pexto calipers, angle tool? And I actually needed the Dewalt reciprocating saw case and blades.
 

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jeffmoss26

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I made it to one sale today. I had yard work to do so not too much getting out for me. I pulled all this for $10 at one stop and then it was home to get the yard cleaned up. USN marked Machete ( I cant really read what's below the USN. Blade is slightly rusty but may be able to be cleaned up while still maintaining a vintage look. Also scored this cool ford branded padlock. Key is ford as well. Is it a spare tire assembly lock ? Also got the plomb wf-20 and a proto stubbie.
most likely the padlock was made by Hurd
 

Private Lugnutz

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just looked it up on eBay
:) I did say extraordinary!
What would you recommend for me to remove the rust without taking it too far?
The only techniques that go too far for me when it comes to rust removal are a wire wheel, sander, grinder, or files. They will remove steel. And could ruin the marking. If you don't like Evaporust, I would follow other suggestions or your instincts. Penetrating oil and a very fine grit foam sanding pad or 0000 steel wool will definitely leave some rust, if that's your goal.
 
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Smokeshow69

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:) I did say extraordinary!

The only techniques that go too far for me when it comes to rust removal are a wire wheel, sander, grinder, or files. They will remove steel. And could ruin the marking. If you don't like Evaporust, I would follow other suggestions or your instincts. Penetrating oil and a very fine grit foam sanding pad or 0000 steel wool will definitely leave some rust, if that's your goal.
Well I spent some time on it with some 600 grit wet sanding paper and a sanding block with wd40. I can’t find a maker’s mark on it? I have resisted the urge to sharpen it as that would be a dead giveaway of recent work. I did post this on a militaria forum I am part of to get some opinions. The blade appears more shiny in the pictures than in real life because it is under a work light. Here is a shot of it next to the freshly washed sheath
 

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brockmub

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Finishing up the last of the Hoarder Mechanic, here's the last few boxes of contents. Only one more tool box left just ran out of time. Planes, files, screw drivers, hatchets, and a set with more broken sockets than useful ones. Also turned up a Craftsman tap/die handle that I really like. There was also the last piece of a really large Speedmaster socket set.

.
 

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Provincial

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Thanks Jock I knew it was something along those lines. I was thinking 40’s by the look of it. Two questions, what replaced them, the more crow foot looking t handle wrenches? Also, if I post the part number might you know who made this wrench? There is a # but no name on the head. Just curious is it Plomb/Bonney like the typical PWA stuff.
The later lead nut wrenches were T-handles with a tubing-type crowfoot "12-point" broach. I made my own in 3/8" drive by cutting out sections of 6-point deep impact sockets. I patterned them off a PWA 3/8 drive tool. They could get down into tight places.

I have a wrench like yours. I can't put my hands on it now, but may dig it out in the future. I picked it up to try out on shielding nuts, and it didn't work well enough for my needs.

It is always a good idea to post numbers off a tool. Even if it doesn't get a good answer, it adds to the general information on this site, and could help someone in the future.

That was a nice haul, and I'll give you a **** for it, especially for the big Plomb!
 

bluebolt

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A few more items from the Bandit Shed. I did a quick cleanup on the Coleman 249 kerosene lantern, date was 4 54 (April 1954). I did a little polishing of the fount with some Never Dull, it will need more. I have a globe around here somewhere. The Kinfolks knife model # 96 and sheath is probably WWII era, it's already sold to a guy in the 96th Bomb Squadron here at Barksdale AFB.
 

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Outlawmws

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BB, most people use Mothers on the Coleman nickle. Don't go at it with a polishing wheel on a grinder, its too aggressive.

You can also start with cleaning the fount with lye, that gets a lot of organic crud off.
 

Outlawmws

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Thanks, I don't but I'm seeing fewer and fewer. I do still buy them if cheap, even though I have at least 8 counting the tri-folds.
 

zanyad

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Apr 26, 2018
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NE Ohio
Speaking of the Kennedy I picked up yesterday, here is most of the good stuff:
52934652339_80f56d78ca_c.jpg
Highlights include Mitutoyo inside and outside calipers, Mitutoyo dial gauge, Starrett and Lufkin dial gauge sets, Tumico inside mic (sadly missing one of the bars, which I might have), Williams punches, misc. Starrett inc. 6" scale, scribe, sheet metal gauge, etc. carbide cutting tips, HSS bars, etc. Also, there was a ton of hex keys, all the way up to at least 1", plus metric sizes. The Kennedy itself is in good shape, with all of the dividers, only someone spilled red Dykem or the equivalent in the top compartment, and it is missing the pull for the drawer cover. When I picked it up I didn't know that the key was inside it, so happy with that. Not sure if I am going to part it out or not, I have too many Kennedy 520's and this one isn't quite good enough to sell.

Between the Kennedy and the Snap-on set, I paid $100, and there are still a few things I picked up in the deal out in my truck.
@bmwrd0 you ****!
 

pfaustus

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Joined
Feb 6, 2016
Messages
361
Finishing up the last of the Hoarder Mechanic, here's the last few boxes of contents. Only one more tool box left just ran out of time. Planes, files, screw drivers, hatchets, and a set with more broken sockets than useful ones. Also turned up a Craftsman tap/die handle that I really like. There was also the last piece of a really large Speedmaster socket set.

.
Bedrock #5 just hidden in there. Nice. The suckitude from cleaning out that shed may permanently alter the nation's weather patterns.
 

ecotec

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Oct 5, 2010
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5,451
Armstrong and Bonney sockets and two SK extensions… $10.

The two SK extensions have the same model number, but different finishes. I have at least 4 of these of 3 different designs.
 

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