Mr. Wonderful
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My dad always jokes that if I ever move, the foundation on my garage is going to move up an inch or two. I'm sure I would have heard about it here if that were true lol.Mr. W, that shelf is going to wind up in China.
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
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TheRealZeus
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It must be hard to collect vises for someone that has a houseboat.Patrickm82
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Just picked up this prentiss 50 for $20 today. The guy had a Reed 104r with the dynamic jaw snapped off but the jaw serrations looked brand new. I may go back and get it cause he said he was going to scrap it! The prentiss went in to the purple power for a couple day bath.
Patrickm82
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Any one have a dynamic jaw for a Reed 104R? I know it’s a long shot but gotta ask.
Mr. Wonderful
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You might want to check the vise parts swap thread.
fullthrottle24
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Rock Island handle and screw look huge on that prentiss!
4xdog
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Ross, the vise looks terrific! But even the "before" image is pretty nice in its own right.
Your recreated Wilton tag looks OEM -- that's a nice touch. Have you found that the ink-jetted waterslide decal paper tolerates clearcoats with no cockling or attack? Are all waterslide substrates created equal?
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The waterslide decal paper I used is available on Amazon [Sunnyscopa Waterslide Decal Paper for INKJET Printer - CLEAR]. It is made by a Korean company [www.sunnyscopa.com] that also offers the paper in white. It works well with my Epson printer since the ink is pigmented and not a dye. I use the "glossy" print setting to put down more ink than the normal plain paper setting does. The film layer is too fragile unless it is coated with multiple coats of something like "Krylon K01303A07 Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating". This dries quickly and 4-5 coats gives a decal with good dimensional stability. Since you are making a whole sheet of these, I suggest printing extra and removing any that don't go on perfectly while they are wet. After application, don't blot or touch the decal. Just leave it alone for a few hours and it will bond to the substrate (highly polished aluminum in my case). The decal needs further protection and more of the Krylon can be used or even better use a 2K clear coat for a tough protective layer. I like "Spray max USC 2k High Gloss Clearcoat" which can also be ordered from Amazon or found at a local body shop.
Thanks for the replies about the Yost 203-1/2 with the early swivel mechanism. I'm hoping to buy it this weekend.
Meanwhile, I picked up an F. E. McGlinchy corner vise.
Info on VintageMachinery.org indicates that it would later be re-branded by Champion as model 555 and Craftsman as 9-5202.
VM also has a link to the 1917 patent by Frank E. McGlinchy and Albert L. Wilson.
I've only found a couple examples online, so I thought I'd post some photos here.
Meanwhile, I picked up an F. E. McGlinchy corner vise.
Info on VintageMachinery.org indicates that it would later be re-branded by Champion as model 555 and Craftsman as 9-5202.
VM also has a link to the 1917 patent by Frank E. McGlinchy and Albert L. Wilson.
I've only found a couple examples online, so I thought I'd post some photos here.
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Patrickm82
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Patrickm82
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Found this guy at the Masons flea market. Only marks are 54 on the tail end. Probably imported
Patrickm82
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Also this winter project. Reed 104r snapped in half. The jaws are still sharp and is great other wise. The guy was going to scrap it and I gave him $20 to save it. It will be a good outdoors vise after some nickel rods
TheRealZeus
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She been hurt a couple times. 
Patrickm82
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Yup, it ***** when people do **** like that!
master Zoda
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Whats up with those jaws? It loooks like the just checkered the casting. Are they cast in? I would have been all over it for $20. Good find.Also this winter project. Reed 104r snapped in half. The jaws are still sharp and is great other wise. The guy was going to scrap it and I gave him $20 to save it. It will be a good outdoors vise after some nickel rods
Patrickm82
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Yes they are! I don’t know what happened to it. It is NOT beat on at all. Freak accident, poor casting??
Patrickm82
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That’s what I figured I’ve wasted $20 on dumber stuff than this!
fullthrottle24
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I stand corrected, I guess it was the angle of photo and the fact that the screw was not seated into dynamic jaw. It should say oil the screw on the front. I also see it has the prentiss crack.Looks prentiss to me
Patrickm82
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Yup it sure does. I didn’t see the “oil the screw”though
va.grouseman
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I would've loved to have seen the live production when that Reed was snapped.---Better yet, be there filming it.---With the right weld or braze, you can still get a lot of use out of it.---Beaters like that are like real real ugly girls.---If they leave you, you won't mind.---If the vise breaks again, it won't sting so bad.
Patrickm82
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I’ll get her fixed up nice. It’ll become a nice outdoor vise.
CRSINMICH
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Patrick: I don't know what happened to your vise either, but I wouldn't be at all surprised to find that someone tried to use it as a press.
It looks like someone used JB Weld to try to repair it. If you can get it decently fixed then go for it.
It looks like someone used JB Weld to try to repair it. If you can get it decently fixed then go for it.
fullthrottle24
Well-known member
From Mark’s restoration. My Prentiss Bulldog maybe has faint remnants of the stamping
Patrickm82
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Yes it definitely has JB weld or something like that on there. When I noticed it I chuckled to myself that they thought that would hold up
Patrickm82
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I will have to look a little closer, mine has a spot drill hole for a live center I’m guessing from the lathe
From Mark’s restoration. My Prentiss Bulldog maybe has faint remnants of the stamping
PierceA
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Patrickm82: I have a very nice Reed 214R [filer's vise]. It too has almost mint jaw serrations.
The dynamic is close to becoming a two-piece item like your 204R..
What is amazing is just how much metal is in this location and yet the vice failed.
Looking at my vise, the crack is complete all the way around the bottom of the dynamic but not at top of the slide where
it becomes the jaw tower. This implies that the forces that caused the crack were directly opposite clamping forces.
I cannot imaging what could have been done to this vise to cause the crack, and not leave a very noticable mark on some other part of the vise.
The only vague possibility is that the vise was dropped onto the top face of the dynamic jaw square onto a solid floor, causing enough force to attempt to separate the jaw tower from the slide..
PierceA
The dynamic is close to becoming a two-piece item like your 204R..
What is amazing is just how much metal is in this location and yet the vice failed.
Looking at my vise, the crack is complete all the way around the bottom of the dynamic but not at top of the slide where
it becomes the jaw tower. This implies that the forces that caused the crack were directly opposite clamping forces.
I cannot imaging what could have been done to this vise to cause the crack, and not leave a very noticable mark on some other part of the vise.
The only vague possibility is that the vise was dropped onto the top face of the dynamic jaw square onto a solid floor, causing enough force to attempt to separate the jaw tower from the slide..
PierceA
Patrickm82
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va.grouseman
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Mr. Pierce, your Reed at a point that it can be V ground and righteously repaired.---Any further use and it will look like King Solomon passed judgment.
PierceA
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Hi Va. I have owned it for several years. And will not use it at all until it is repaired as you described.
I am a bit concerned that as much metal as is shown on Patrickm82's vise, that I can pre-heat it adequately for a good weld.
I'm a bit dismayed that as late a vise as this Reed is, that the iron quality was not better.
PierceA
I am a bit concerned that as much metal as is shown on Patrickm82's vise, that I can pre-heat it adequately for a good weld.
I'm a bit dismayed that as late a vise as this Reed is, that the iron quality was not better.
PierceA
Gas BBQ grills work great for preheating!
Oregon rock crusher
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I just picked up my third Woden vise so far this year. I'm not sure why they seem to be turning up lately, maybe I've just noticed them more after being so impressed with the brand after finding the first one this spring at the Portland swap meet. This one is a B/3 which is a 4" vise. Pretty sure the simple B/X numbering system is earlier than the 186B/X on the size 1 and 4 vises. They have all taken a bit of repair to function well but none had any serious breaks. Good solid vises with a very good swivel lock system which is much better than the lock on my 6" Paramo that otherwise is similar. A few pics. Ed.
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Patrickm82
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Here is a close up of the 2 pieces. Went back into a purple power bath because it seemed to be breaking down the jb weld or epoxy the po put on there.
master Zoda
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Herecey.
12vx2
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Good old American ingenuity, sometimes has it's shortcomings. We come up with creative ways to use them of which they were never intended.
Mr. Wonderful
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I feel your pain. I’m working on a prentiss 75 that apparently was at the center of Manhattan experiment detonation. The static tower was completely blown out. I attempted to repair it this afternoon. It’s cooling in a big dirt pile after several nomacast rods. I welded the dynamic on my starrett 323-1/2 as well. It can be made useable again. Good luck!Here is a close up of the 2 pieces. Went back into a purple power bath because it seemed to be breaking down the jb weld or epoxy the po put on there.
454ragtop
Well-known member
Found this real nice Prentiss no. 2 swivel jaw at the flea market today. Awesome jaws, only took a few minutes to get the pin out and the swivel jaw freed up. What years did they use the graffiti lettering?
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Mr. Wonderful
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I decided to return my original Wilton 307 to my pow-r-arm. It seems somewhat rare at least on GJ.
TheRealZeus
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Naw, I am fairly certain… in order most likely; this is resultant of the previous user/abuser, or may be an accidentally dropping/mishandling, or lastly, manufacture defect.
I’ll start with the obligatory “you suk.” Glad ya got her! Great save, Man. 🫡
