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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

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kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,630
Location
Upstate New York
Painted up some wood letters for another sign I'm making for the garage/workshop. Not going to say what just yet, but I should have it done by tomorrow night. I''l post more pics then.

Also cleaned up this old oak cabinet, which I got for free last week, and put it in the new office. This will get painted to blend in with the rest of the office color scheme. Until then its been put to work holding some things.
I hope there's more letters, cause I'm pretty sure those ones only make one specific word.
 

PhantomEB

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2006
Messages
6,858
Location
Medicine Hat, AB, Canuckistan
Simply had to swap Orings from old lead to the new one and magically my welder works like new, longer liner even stopped it from jamming up right after the drive roller. Now from YouTube I found out I want to find two small sealed bearings from work to make a drive roller support to take the slack out of the shaft.

Finished welding up the passenger side inner fender then went to town and moved a bolt bin to the back corner. Also moved the garbage can back to where it used to be. Found I kept dumping garbage into my empties can after moving the garbage can into another wasted space. Don’t know how long before it goes back to that wasted space.

6D63E68D-C51E-4851-A726-7F7F7B961BDD.jpeg39093EEB-945A-4813-8F4B-030B7611DB23.jpeg
 

rayra

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
4,724
Location
Escaped from Los Angeles
Nothing wrong with the stops you made for the doors, very clever.
Since you are making shelves, I’ll share how I set my inset doors flush on a pair of cherry nightstands that I built. I used the interior shelf as a stop.

The nightstands
IMG_3060_Original.jpeg
The interior shelf was adjusted to get the door flush and then screwed to the shelf pins in a couple places.
IMG_4192.jpeg
On other note: This last pic really shows how the solid cherry edge band on the plywood shelf doesn’t darken near as much as the other banding when it isn’t exposed to light.

Nice work on your hutch. You made impressively quick progress.
Thanks very much. I like the contrast in your nightstands. Color matching is a tough thing. Our house in the Sierras had 50yr-old Cedar shiplap inside and out and we took out an added bedroom to re-create a dining area and had a helluva time matching those old boards. We developed almost a painter's palette of so many stains and learned to start with the lighter shades and work towards the darker, until we'd built in enough color to blend with the old boards. It was a royal PITA.
And then a few years later we made some other major alterations and wound up with a surplus of those older cedar planks. We wound up massively altering the main bath, big jacuzzi tub, golden travertine, and an arched ceiling that I built custom cabinets for and then I made a small sideboard cabinet and bi medicine chest out of more of that wood, as we'd gone to a pedestal sink and lost all the handy storage.

As for 'quick progress', like all my projects it's been very long in the thinking and note making, my earliest sheet of notes is dated 7/28/22 and I've had a blue tape outline up on the dining room wall for just over a year (lulz). Despite all that time, no full blueprint and 'final' decisions not even made now. You saw some of that at ExpeditionPortal with my Suburban projects. Sometimes I move like a glacier on things.
I've been staring at two-tone sample pics for well over a year but now as I get very close to staining I'm having 2nd thoughts. But there's so much 'all black' going on, and other dark brown wood elements that I ought to blend the two somewhere. So it's going to be the hutch and buffet.
I've got one more piece to make after this dining room stuff and that's a smaller hutch that will conceal a 5cu' chest freezer and have upper cabinets with 'bar' stuff. And then I'm effectively done with the place. And can get on with playing tourist / retiree.
 

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WildBill

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Aug 20, 2021
Messages
2,032
Location
PNW
Thank you for looking, still hoping to find an actual 7.5mm 12 point though. The nuts won't work with a six point, probably on purpose. It looks like from the pic the JB one is a six point but the part number has a 12 in it so who knows. I will try to find out. I have a six point 7.5mm and it just barely won't fit over them. Only reason I know the size for sure is because I found it in some obscure Ford tech brief. And I've tried everything else. The turbo damaged nut/bolt sockets might work though, I talked to my local Mac guy about them last week and he swore they didn't really have them. I don't think I tried Omega, not sure. Called a bunch of places over the last couple weeks and everyone was out, even though they showed them on their website. Or had at least a six week "not guaranteed" lead time. I am usually pretty good at locating hard to find stuff but stumped on this one. Also they are on super tight and seem designed to strip super easy, so no luck with vise grips.

Edit- just found the turbo damaged fastener socket at SKs site, and it was 50% off, so I ordered it to try.
 
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stuntman

Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2009
Messages
22
Interested in seeing more detail of the handle section. I see the bottom is square. What does the transition look like?

I'll try and take pictures tonight, but its just a lip so you can pickup the tray. Something like 3/16'' stickout with 1/8'' thickness.

Heavily inspired by the Hanson trays for 3/8'' drive
 

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rd65

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Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Messages
2,851
Location
Granite Falls, WA
Did some clearancing work on the CX-30 for the large tires. They were rubbing at full lock in the front and back of the front inner fender liners. Heat gun and a sheet metal dolly seemed to do the trick. Will get some more miles on it and check again. I may be putting a HRG 1.5" lift on it, we'll see. The pic with the jack is what the 1.5" lift would look like. Next up, it will be getting a 2" receiver hitch for some light towing as needed.
Installed a new pick up fuel line in the Echo blower. I don't think that was its problem but I had the new line so I installed it. I have put 2 different carb and ignition coils on the thing and it still dies like it was shut off at upper RPM. I have read that ignition coil to flywheel gap is a thing on these so will play with that some vs the business card gap that I usually use.
 

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rzims

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
461
Location
Grass Valley, CA
Did some clearancing work on the CX-30 for the large tires. They were rubbing at full lock in the front and back of the front inner fender liners. Heat gun and a sheet metal dolly seemed to do the trick. Will get some more miles on it and check again. I may be putting a HRG 1.5" lift on it, we'll see. The pic with the jack is what the 1.5" lift would look like. Next up, it will be getting a 2" receiver hitch for some light towing as needed.
Installed a new pick up fuel line in the Echo blower. I don't think that was its problem but I had the new line so I installed it. I have put 2 different carb and ignition coils on the thing and it still dies like it was shut off at upper RPM. I have read that ignition coil to flywheel gap is a thing on these so will play with that some vs the business card gap that I usually use.
We have the HRG lift on the wife's Bronco Sport - definitely added some beefiness to the look and allowed for the larger tires
 

Mike65

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2007
Messages
3,119
Location
Horse Pasture, Va.
This morning when I got home from work it was sunny mid to upper 50's & a light breeze so I decided to look at my truck again. It had a rattle that sounded like a chain & that usually indicates worn stabilizer bar end links. I pulled the wheel & checked them even though they are new, they're good, I checked the strut where the 3 studs come through the frame mount, they're good & tight. I looked at the lower control arm they look good, & just for the heck of it while I am pushing up & down on the f/e to get it to make the rattle noise I put my hand on the center strut mount point & I can feel the strut mount moving. I go around to the r/s & try it, no movement. I put a socket on the bolt & my electric impact gun & tighten it as far as it will go. Road test it & the noise is gone. SUCCESS.
 

rayra

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Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
4,724
Location
Escaped from Los Angeles
Taking apart this Ford Fusion hybrid battery pack to build smaller battery packs. Cool Panasonic square batteries. They are 3.7v 5ah each and whole deal is 280v DC, two 140v banks, little scary. Probably just explode my heart if I screw up trying to get them apart. I am much more scared of high voltage DC than AC. Came out of wrecked Fusion, whole pack is good. Uses 7.5mm 12 point nuts, anybody know where I can find that socket? Making a tweaked 5/16th work for now. Battery.jpg
What are your olans for the smaller packs? Portable power banks or are you rearranging them into a big storage system at home?
 

rayra

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Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
4,724
Location
Escaped from Los Angeles
Dining hutch Finish sanding underway. Messy business. Worst mess of the bunch, flour-fine dust settling on everything, despite a bagged DeWalt random orbital. I dont need the noise of a shop vac droning on, my tinnitus is annoying enough. But man what a mess. I need a quieter vac and smaller hoses for connecting various woodworking tools.
 

niget2002

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Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,267
Location
Josephine, TX
Installed a new pleated filter on the shop vac.

I noticed it wasn't sucking very well. I popped open the vac to clean it out and realized I still had a 'wet' filter in it. It was clogged to the point hardly any air would go through. I cleaned up the 'wet' filter and re-installed it and the openings were so large that dust was just flowing through it.

I had to order a new pleated filter and it came in today. The shop vac works much better now.
 

GrayFlattop

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,051
Location
Chicago
Dining hutch Finish sanding underway. Messy business. Worst mess of the bunch, flour-fine dust settling on everything, despite a bagged DeWalt random orbital. I dont need the noise of a shop vac droning on, my tinnitus is annoying enough. But man what a mess. I need a quieter vac and smaller hoses for connecting various woodworking tools.
Yes - use ear plugs. I work in a very loud environment and inserting earplugs is almost reflexive to me. Also, there are always earplugs around my neck, or in the car, on the doorknob to the shop, in the laundry room, and the counter where I leave my keys / cell phone. We have annual Audiometric testing at work, so it's just a part of life for me.

Also - your shop vac. I know it's easy to spend other people's money, but get yourself a quieter shop vac. I've had Fein shop vacs for 30 years. Festool vacs are quiet too (and they better be for the $). There may be other brands out ther, but these are the ones I have direct experience with.
 

WildBill

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Aug 20, 2021
Messages
2,032
Location
PNW
What are your plans for the smaller packs? Portable power banks or are you rearranging them into a big storage system at home?
I am going to make a beefy 48v pack out of one 140v bank to power a 3000w electric motor package with controller, gauges, and throttle setup I got super cheap, still not sure if its going on a 60's Kawasaki Coyote mini bike, 60's Honda S90, or some sort of Honda Odyssey type contraption made out of an old four wheeler. I might use the rest of the cells for smaller packs for the various electric scooters I have, and/or maybe a couple car jump packs. Not sure.

Friend of mine has a salvage yard and is scared of batteries so I can get hybrid packs for free from his wrecked cars. He has a couple of wrecked Prius waiting for me to get the packs out of now. Thinking making a big power wall type setup for my house at some point.
 

GrayFlattop

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,051
Location
Chicago
Sunday was one of those days that didn't seem very productive. I needed to make an adapter of sorts to fit the 5 hp motor I have on to the motor base of the new (to me) compressor. Found a piece of 1/2" plate and drilled/tapped holes as required. I triple-checked the layout since the OEM motor was smaller in frame size. After that, the next task was to get the motor from workbench height to the motor bracket on the compressor. The main issue is that I'm older - and consequently have a better understanding of my limitations. Getting it off the floor to the workbench was doable, but to get it 2 feet higher - well it just wasn't happening. No handle on the motor and it weighs ~120# (newer ones are closer to 90#, but mine is 35 years old). I didn't want to break myself or drop the motor, so I spent some time plotting how to get it done. When the motor was new, I wouldn't have given it a second thought.

I figured I could use a piece of unistrut with a light duty trolley & a chain come-along, but couldn't get enough vertical clearance. Scratched my head and cursed. I decided to shift gears while thinking. Took a walk outside and filled the bird feeders - I went to turn on the hose to wash out & refill the bird baths and the frost-proof sillcock was leaking. This is the only one on the house that hasn't leaked since I installed it ages ago. Finally a project that I could start AND finish in a short period of time. I had the correct faucet washers and got that done, back to the garage.

I finally figured out a strategy to move the motor, modified a few pieces with a cut-off wheel - then called it a day as I was getting hungry. I'll finish it next weekend.
 

Wiz02

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2007
Messages
2,399
Location
Southeastern PA
Sunday was one of those days that didn't seem very productive. I needed to make an adapter of sorts to fit the 5 hp motor I have on to the motor base of the new (to me) compressor. Found a piece of 1/2" plate and drilled/tapped holes as required. I triple-checked the layout since the OEM motor was smaller in frame size. After that, the next task was to get the motor from workbench height to the motor bracket on the compressor. The main issue is that I'm older - and consequently have a better understanding of my limitations. Getting it off the floor to the workbench was doable, but to get it 2 feet higher - well it just wasn't happening. No handle on the motor and it weighs ~120# (newer ones are closer to 90#, but mine is 35 years old). I didn't want to break myself or drop the motor, so I spent some time plotting how to get it done. When the motor was new, I wouldn't have given it a second thought.

I figured I could use a piece of unistrut with a light duty trolley & a chain come-along, but couldn't get enough vertical clearance. Scratched my head and cursed. I decided to shift gears while thinking. Took a walk outside and filled the bird feeders - I went to turn on the hose to wash out & refill the bird baths and the frost-proof sillcock was leaking. This is the only one on the house that hasn't leaked since I installed it ages ago. Finally a project that I could start AND finish in a short period of time. I had the correct faucet washers and got that done, back to the garage.

I finally figured out a strategy to move the motor, modified a few pieces with a cut-off wheel - then called it a day as I was getting hungry. I'll finish it next weekend.
So what did you rig up to lift the motor? I can't believe it, but a medicine cabinet that we bought is too heavy for me to lift up and put into the rough opening in the wall by myself.

The cabinet is designed to be installed in one piece, not remove the glass doors and shelves and it's heavy and awkward to lift.

I am planning on asking my neighbors for help, and while I would prefer not asking for a favor, this cabinet cost a mint and I will never hear the end of it, if something that I rig up fails and the mirror glass cracks or the door hinges are bent.
 

GrayFlattop

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,051
Location
Chicago
So what did you rig up to lift the motor? I can't believe it, but a medicine cabinet that we bought is too heavy for me to lift up and put into the rough opening in the wall by myself.

The cabinet is designed to be installed in one piece, not remove the glass doors and shelves and it's heavy and awkward to lift.

I am planning on asking my neighbors for help, and while I would prefer not asking for a favor, this cabinet cost a mint and I will never hear the end of it, if something that I rig up fails and the mirror glass cracks or the door hinges are bent.
Not quite done, but I will use a piece of Unistrut with a light- duty dolly. I'll post pictures when it's done. I have to build some sort of support for one end - and that would have taken more time than I had yesterday.

I could have asked one of the young strong guys from work, but I don't want to impose unless it is REALLY heavy.

Plus, I have to figure out how to do these things by myself as I age. The 50 year old version of myself would have muscled it up there. That guy is gone and not coming back.

Usually I can move heavy things around, but in this case, it's pure lifting.
 

Motorman55

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2016
Messages
2,654
Location
South Jersey
Started working on the Castrol Motor Oil sign today. Not finished yet as I still have to letter the words 'motor' and 'oil' in black paint and then outline the green with a black pinstripe. Shown right now is just a basic black marker outline to see how I want the letters to look.

I originally painted the large wood CASTROL letters green but after some color sketches on paper, I went with red CASTROL letters and a green border with a white panel and black motor/oil letters which are all the colors of Castrol Oil. I'll get back to it soon sometime later this week. Meanwhile I want to paint the old wood cabinet I got for free for the office. 1708987239414.jpeg1708987206338.jpeg
 

micromind

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2023
Messages
3,124
Location
Fernley, Nevada, about 30 miles east of Reno.
Sunday was one of those days that didn't seem very productive. I needed to make an adapter of sorts to fit the 5 hp motor I have on to the motor base of the new (to me) compressor. Found a piece of 1/2" plate and drilled/tapped holes as required. I triple-checked the layout since the OEM motor was smaller in frame size. After that, the next task was to get the motor from workbench height to the motor bracket on the compressor. The main issue is that I'm older - and consequently have a better understanding of my limitations. Getting it off the floor to the workbench was doable, but to get it 2 feet higher - well it just wasn't happening. No handle on the motor and it weighs ~120# (newer ones are closer to 90#, but mine is 35 years old). I didn't want to break myself or drop the motor, so I spent some time plotting how to get it done. When the motor was new, I wouldn't have given it a second thought.

I figured I could use a piece of unistrut with a light duty trolley & a chain come-along, but couldn't get enough vertical clearance. Scratched my head and cursed. I decided to shift gears while thinking. Took a walk outside and filled the bird feeders - I went to turn on the hose to wash out & refill the bird baths and the frost-proof sillcock was leaking. This is the only one on the house that hasn't leaked since I installed it ages ago. Finally a project that I could start AND finish in a short period of time. I had the correct faucet washers and got that done, back to the garage.

I finally figured out a strategy to move the motor, modified a few pieces with a cut-off wheel - then called it a day as I was getting hungry. I'll finish it next weekend.

I have been known to take a motor apart, lift the frame and stator up to where it needs to be then re-assemble it after the frame is bolted down.
 
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