"Flyswatters" huh?Made jigs and burned some leather flyswatter parts. Started developing a tea light holder. First one gets fish in a tank.
What did you do "IN" your garage today?
- Thread starter mayhemman
- Start date
My torch regulators are probably over 40 years old or I might have resorted to that. I need to do something about those regulators.
I was shocked at the cost of undiluted Asian coolant. I think the last time I bought any it was like $7. Peak from Amazon was $25.Oil change and tire rotation on the Honda Fit, and prepping for a oil change and coolant replacement on the GX460. $240 worth of fluids and filters later and we should be good to go.
welder4956
Well-known member
I've been replacing the suspension and bushing on my budget project car. The rear suspension put up a fight with several bolts seized into the bushings. I haven't had to use the torch in a while. It looks like it's due for a new tip.
Recently had to do the struts on a gen 1 CRV. First generation did not have any lubrication on the bottom of the shock. Bolts in control arm rust to it. Fun times. Usually rip bolt head off. Leaving welded nut on other side. And a whole mess in-between. Dealers, good ones, carry parts for this. And a large profit margin.I've been replacing the suspension and bushing on my budget project car. The rear suspension put up a fight with several bolts seized into the bushings. I haven't had to use the torch in a while. It looks like it's due for a new tip.
I broke one bolt which had to be cut and then a nut welded on to extract it from the trailing arm.
Had my mechanic friend, (who ripped off the heads), fix it. Did the whole steering rack replacement too. Like I said, fun times.
Gen 1 CRV, lube them up way before you decide the bolt is too easy to remove using the bolt head. Worse, tearing the welded nut from the control arm. Now you have several more rusty bolts and a few parts to replace.
Giving it gas will wake up the engine. Not that this is a precise way to do something.
Yes it will, but I wouldn't really want the engine to start with a breaker bar/cheater pipe attached to the crankshaft.
If that's what it took to get the crank bolt off, it was well worth the price of admission. If you never have to do it again, that's a bonus.
I'm putting front brakes on my daughter's '11 Forester. QST
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I like those! Maybe a "screen pattern" for the blank part?I just came in for a break from continuing to work on the Highlander. I was out there swearing to find the Mongo who overtightened the living snot out half the fasteners and deliver the candygram personally.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
I changed the oil on my Silverado, not worth mentioning, but this thread compels me to mentioned it. Lol
rd65
Well-known member
Honda V6 has a ****** of a harmonic balancer bolt. There are several special tool sockets/holder available for them. Maybe the same is true for the Toyota? Available on Amazon.
Toyota dealership cut me a break at $26/galI was shocked at the cost of undiluted Asian coolant. I think the last time I bought any it was like $7. Peak from Amazon was $25.
You may have missed that I (barely) got it off yesterday with the Earthquake XT 1500 ft/lb rated air impact from HF.
Edit: And I just had to use it again to get the tensioner pulley off. Torque on that fastener is supposed to be all of 25 ft/lbs.
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Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Well some times I itch my self in the garage, but no one wants to here about that.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
That's what they're being marketed as. What they get used for is none of my business. If I owned one, I'd be pounding the living **** out of small insects.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
I'm just the tool here, it's what the customer ordered. I will make the suggestion.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Cut rotten chunks off a railing. Welded new tails into the posts.
Wrench97
Well-known member
Wow yours is faster then mine, my next day shipping takes 3 days......
Wrench97
Well-known member
Well it won't be attached for long.....
I got all of the sprocket bolts off. The cam sprockets required a sprocket holder around 4 feet long, and the bolts took a 24 inch Snap-On breaker bar and the handle from the floor jack as a cheater pipe, so a bit longer than the sprocket fixture.. (I'm not making any of this up). The "crack" sound as the bolts broke loose was quite sharp. I'm fairly confident that I didn't bend any valves. I really hope there are no bent valves.Well it won't be attached for long.....
Wrench97
Well-known member
I've had them before makes you want to see the guy that tightened them up and with what.....
I already have a mental picture. Mongo crossbred with the stereotypical 900 pound gorilla in the room, and the kid took a lot of steroids and growth hormones.
I seriously don't understand how anyone got all of these fasteners so tight in the extremely tight spaces that it all has to fit in.
I am not joking about making a 4 foot long sprocket holder and using the handle from my floor jack as a cheater pipe. I started as a professional mechanic in about 1980, and since then I don't ever recall having to deal with such overtightened fasteners in so little space.
Tomorrow I get to scrub all of the gooey nasty parts, extract and replace the cam and crank seals in nearly inaccessible places, and put it all back together. Somehow, at 69, this is not nearly as much fun as it was in my 20s.
But I apparently can still do it.
DGersic
Well-known member
More sanding.
Little bit more putty to sand, tomorrow, and these are ready for paint and stain.
Little bit more putty to sand, tomorrow, and these are ready for paint and stain.
KwikFab
Well-known member
Been troubleshooting my CNC table; had an issue develop and I've been working on it since Sunday to no avail.
Today though, my bolt kit arrived so I finally put together my two fixture tables.
Took my time to get them set to the same height and removing two of the legs for a total of six. At this step now it's time to snug the bolt kit between both tables -
Next up is tightly clamping square or rectangular tube on each face, and on top. Snapped a picture before I got all the tubes clamped down and leveling -
Once leveled, you tighten the bolt kit, then unclamp the tubing and call it done -
Don't let the pics fool ya, I have a whole mess of tools and scrap steel cutouts on the ground in the second half of the garage -
Just glad to have expanded my welding table top work space.
Once I figure out my CNC table issue, I can proceed with making more tool holders; last one I made was a few days ago sitting on the table there (painted black).
Today though, my bolt kit arrived so I finally put together my two fixture tables.
Took my time to get them set to the same height and removing two of the legs for a total of six. At this step now it's time to snug the bolt kit between both tables -
Next up is tightly clamping square or rectangular tube on each face, and on top. Snapped a picture before I got all the tubes clamped down and leveling -
Once leveled, you tighten the bolt kit, then unclamp the tubing and call it done -
Don't let the pics fool ya, I have a whole mess of tools and scrap steel cutouts on the ground in the second half of the garage -
Just glad to have expanded my welding table top work space.
Once I figure out my CNC table issue, I can proceed with making more tool holders; last one I made was a few days ago sitting on the table there (painted black).
It's also a neat flashback for me. As a Cub Scout in the 1950s one of our projects was hammering a sheet of copper into an ash tray. It was important for 10-year-olds to carry an ash tray wherever we went so our butts wouldn't set the woods on fire.
It was normal back then...
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Why are the legs in the middle of the table only supporting the front of the table?Been troubleshooting my CNC table; had an issue develop and I've been working on it since Sunday to no avail.
Today though, my bolt kit arrived so I finally put together my two fixture tables.
Took my time to get them set to the same height and removing two of the legs for a total of six. At this step now it's time to snug the bolt kit between both tables -
Next up is tightly clamping square or rectangular tube on each face, and on top. Snapped a picture before I got all the tubes clamped down and leveling -
Once leveled, you tighten the bolt kit, then unclamp the tubing and call it done -
Don't let the pics fool ya, I have a whole mess of tools and scrap steel cutouts on the ground in the second half of the garage -
Just glad to have expanded my welding table top work space.
Once I figure out my CNC table issue, I can proceed with making more tool holders; last one I made was a few days ago sitting on the table there (painted black).
niget2002
Well-known member
Had a busy week in the shop. Completely finished the kayak, built a kayak rack, and tested out a kayak cover.
The ladders are off the ground for the first time in 6 years.
The ladders are off the ground for the first time in 6 years.
Outlander
Well-known member
Between the basement workshop (house) and the garage (cottage), I resurrected 2 pairs of pliers. Pair with blue grips are mine from a set I bought a while ago when I was accumulating tools. Needle-nose were inherited from my Dad. Both were seized up tight, like rock solid tight.
So 72 hours in a vinegar and salt bath, carefully used the woodworking vise to open them with some force and "presto" they released their rusty bonds. Some brishing, a ton of oil and they are fully functional. Needle-nose will of course be handed down in the family.
I will finish the clean up and get them into the tool box.
Any suggestions on what oil to use on pliers in general? 3-in-One / light machine oil? 10W30?
So 72 hours in a vinegar and salt bath, carefully used the woodworking vise to open them with some force and "presto" they released their rusty bonds. Some brishing, a ton of oil and they are fully functional. Needle-nose will of course be handed down in the family.
I will finish the clean up and get them into the tool box.
Any suggestions on what oil to use on pliers in general? 3-in-One / light machine oil? 10W30?
Outlander
Well-known member
Last weekend's story - the good; the bad; and the ugly:
The good - pliers returned to service (see above post)
The bad - lawn mower doesn't start. Not getting fuel. I need a goat or a buffalo at the cottage now
The ugly - needed a wee bit of heat so I lit up the blowtorch. Flames came out where no flames ought to be. Sorry Dad (RIP), gotta get a new blowtoch that won't burn down the house.
The good - pliers returned to service (see above post)
The bad - lawn mower doesn't start. Not getting fuel. I need a goat or a buffalo at the cottage now
The ugly - needed a wee bit of heat so I lit up the blowtorch. Flames came out where no flames ought to be. Sorry Dad (RIP), gotta get a new blowtoch that won't burn down the house.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
lol
Prospecter
Well-known member
I like to soak in Marvel Mystery Oil, then wipe down with Fluid Film.Between the basement workshop (house) and the garage (cottage), I resurrected 2 pairs of pliers. Pair with blue grips are mine from a set I bought a while ago when I was accumulating tools. Needle-nose were inherited from my Dad. Both were seized up tight, like rock solid tight.
So 72 hours in a vinegar and salt bath, carefully used the woodworking vise to open them with some force and "presto" they released their rusty bonds. Some brishing, a ton of oil and they are fully functional. Needle-nose will of course be handed down in the family.
I will finish the clean up and get them into the tool box.
Any suggestions on what oil to use on pliers in general? 3-in-One / light machine oil? 10W30?
nadogail
Well-known member
Pitched some scrap wood and consolidated two stacks of 5 gallon buckets into one.
Moved a dozen shop towels from the shop to the house.
Moved a dozen shop towels from the shop to the house.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
I spray mine with WD 40. Used to have something called boeshield, but it's long gone, and the WD works well enough.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Or fix the one you have assuming it is an antique gas blowtorch and not a Bernz-O Matic
KwikFab
Well-known member
I opted to use only two legs in the 'back' to retain a bit of support and allow room in the 'front' for comfort.
I mainly did it to keep from hitting my knee when I'm working around a project and I've got my PPE on and whatnot, but also I could put a small tool cart underneath to hold my tools (if I don't opt to make a small shelf).
Although each "top" weighs +150lbs, there are some machined threaded inserts that bolt the faces of the fixture together.
The insert takes up the full length of the holes on both fixtures to act like a solid pin, and it does it well since I can sit right on top of the "unsupported" part of the table with no change.
stonesfan68
Well-known member
And that’s why I outsourced my lawn work!
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Only on a postage stamp yard round here. I can buy a garden tractor every year, or a nice ZT, and still be ahead of what it costs.