abstamaria
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Fantastic.
New build: Arts & Crafts style garage in historic neighborhood
- Thread starter 993James993
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Fantastic.
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993James993
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Yes, I like the idea of a white space. Most kitchens and bathrooms in 1920's bungalows were originally white. The garage is very much a work environment so white seems fitting.
I'm going to have the painter touch up the trim on my house and tomorrow morning will have him look at the interior now that it is ready for paint. With luck he may do the painting which will be ok by me!
I'm going to have the painter touch up the trim on my house and tomorrow morning will have him look at the interior now that it is ready for paint. With luck he may do the painting which will be ok by me!
Years ago I never liked white. . . it was so boring and always seemed to be the default "color". When my wife and got our own place we were of the same thought on the subject and painted our interior accordingly. We have golden yellows, terra cotta rusty reds, blues, turquoises, sandy tans, and a tennis ball green in our office (it all sounds chaotic but the colors do work and look good).
But I'm learning to like white again.
The walls of my garage have a light coat of white to cover the sheetrock and I've appreciated the light that's reflected off the wall and ceiling surfaces. Plus, a few of our projects I've been in that had primer but no colored paint on the walls looked good with the play of natural light and shadow in the spaces.
So I'm modifying my stance on white.
If it's a color that's arrived at because of conscientious thought then cool.
But just to paint it white "just because" because of preconceived notions that one has to paint it white because that what everyone else does and expects . . . . no dice.
In this case, for a garage or work space white seems to make a lot of sense. Or an off white if you want to punch it up a little. Might look good with ivory-like off white.
Heck, have fun with a sheen-on-sheen scheme. Same color, but different sheens. We did this in our bedroom at home. Very cool effect. We painted the whole wall a smoke blue in flat paint, then did horizontal stripes with smoke blue in a pearl sheen. Same color but you get a difference of reflectance that's very notiable yet produces very subtle striping.
It would be cool to see something like that in ivory.
The key is to be at least two sheen levels apart. And the sheens go from flat to shinyness as such:
flat
eggshell
pearl
satin
semi-gloss
gloss
So a flat and pearl work, or an eggshell and satin work.
But I'm learning to like white again.
The walls of my garage have a light coat of white to cover the sheetrock and I've appreciated the light that's reflected off the wall and ceiling surfaces. Plus, a few of our projects I've been in that had primer but no colored paint on the walls looked good with the play of natural light and shadow in the spaces.
So I'm modifying my stance on white.
If it's a color that's arrived at because of conscientious thought then cool.
But just to paint it white "just because" because of preconceived notions that one has to paint it white because that what everyone else does and expects . . . . no dice.
In this case, for a garage or work space white seems to make a lot of sense. Or an off white if you want to punch it up a little. Might look good with ivory-like off white.
Heck, have fun with a sheen-on-sheen scheme. Same color, but different sheens. We did this in our bedroom at home. Very cool effect. We painted the whole wall a smoke blue in flat paint, then did horizontal stripes with smoke blue in a pearl sheen. Same color but you get a difference of reflectance that's very notiable yet produces very subtle striping.
It would be cool to see something like that in ivory.
The key is to be at least two sheen levels apart. And the sheens go from flat to shinyness as such:
flat
eggshell
pearl
satin
semi-gloss
gloss
So a flat and pearl work, or an eggshell and satin work.
OP
993James993
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Hi Lupinsea,
I have to say your two sheds are beautiful. I follow your build thread every time I log in to GJ.
Thats a very interesting concept that you describe about using different sheens. I've seen this somewhere, possibly in wall paper or fabric based wall coverings. While the idea is great, I would think that you would have to be precise in your workmanship to pull it off. While it could be really nice, I'm just not that adventurous.
Picking a shade of white is not an easy proposition. There are tens of dozens of shades that look completely different depending the light source. I made it easy on myself and just looked at some paint brochures and swatches that I have saved and decided to go with a shade from a Sherwin Williams historic preservation folder. I'll look at the swatch in the sunlight tomorrow morning before finalizing the choice but I should be good with it.
My painter likes SW and I think he can get me a good price on the material there. I met with him this morning and he will be painting the interior!
I have to say your two sheds are beautiful. I follow your build thread every time I log in to GJ.
Thats a very interesting concept that you describe about using different sheens. I've seen this somewhere, possibly in wall paper or fabric based wall coverings. While the idea is great, I would think that you would have to be precise in your workmanship to pull it off. While it could be really nice, I'm just not that adventurous.
Picking a shade of white is not an easy proposition. There are tens of dozens of shades that look completely different depending the light source. I made it easy on myself and just looked at some paint brochures and swatches that I have saved and decided to go with a shade from a Sherwin Williams historic preservation folder. I'll look at the swatch in the sunlight tomorrow morning before finalizing the choice but I should be good with it.
My painter likes SW and I think he can get me a good price on the material there. I met with him this morning and he will be painting the interior!
OP
993James993
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The painter came yesterday to paint the interior. I thought he would be able to complete the job in one day but of course that didn't happen. Here is how it looks now. He will come later this morning to finish up.
The color on the swatch looks like a creamy white and I was not prepared for how yellow it looked when he started. Once everything was uniform it looks great. I like how the color complements both the amber ceiling and the dark trim around the garage door. With luck I'll post more later today.
The color on the swatch looks like a creamy white and I was not prepared for how yellow it looked when he started. Once everything was uniform it looks great. I like how the color complements both the amber ceiling and the dark trim around the garage door. With luck I'll post more later today.
twokidsnosleep
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Coming along really nicely 
Walls and ceiling neat and clean.....I hate to bring this up, how about flooring?
Any plans?
Walls and ceiling neat and clean.....I hate to bring this up, how about flooring?
Any plans?
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993James993
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My next challenge is to make the following four objects fit inside and work together in an organized manner.
The gray bench with the vise is 5' long and has sliding doors. This belonged to my father and I remember how happy he was when he purchased that vise. The two tables and the bench measure 21' when lined up and would just fit along the rear wall. All three need new tops. My preference would be stainless steel but that seems out of reach at the moment. MDF is the likely solution. To reduce the mismatched appearance I plan to paint both tables gray to match the bench.
The Kennedy boxes will hopefully fit along the side without creating an obstacle. Plan B is to eliminate the second blue table so that the tool chests fit along the back wall. This would still give a 13' foot work surface and leave room for a second set of Kennedy boxes.
The gray bench with the vise is 5' long and has sliding doors. This belonged to my father and I remember how happy he was when he purchased that vise. The two tables and the bench measure 21' when lined up and would just fit along the rear wall. All three need new tops. My preference would be stainless steel but that seems out of reach at the moment. MDF is the likely solution. To reduce the mismatched appearance I plan to paint both tables gray to match the bench.
The Kennedy boxes will hopefully fit along the side without creating an obstacle. Plan B is to eliminate the second blue table so that the tool chests fit along the back wall. This would still give a 13' foot work surface and leave room for a second set of Kennedy boxes.
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993James993
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Hi Twokids,
No plans for the floor other than a coat of non-shiny concrete sealant. I want the plain look!
No plans for the floor other than a coat of non-shiny concrete sealant. I want the plain look!
51rider
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James! MDF!! In that garage...!
Say it aint so! A minor abberation trying to placate she who must be obeyed on the budgetary front .......
A solid core door counter top a la Jack Olsen, stained to match your man door would be perfect........
Say it aint so! A minor abberation trying to placate she who must be obeyed on the budgetary front .......
A solid core door counter top a la Jack Olsen, stained to match your man door would be perfect........
Can't argue with that. I'd want to paint all the steel components to match, too. Maybe find the shade of the toolbox and match the tables and bench to it?
But that's me.
It's going to be beautiful in there.
But that's me.
It's going to be beautiful in there.
abstamaria
Well-known member
Your ceiling glows, Jim.
ersatzs2
Well-known member
I really dig the Wilton, what model and vintage is that? if you are unsure, a quick post on the 'Vises' thread would ascertain in no time...
Paint looks great!
Paint looks great!
twokidsnosleep
Well-known member
I second the opinions above....match that beautiful door and find the paint match to the tool chest. Two great suggestions
Such a gorgeous space, you might want a camp cot out there for those 'in the doghouse' nights
Scott
Such a gorgeous space, you might want a camp cot out there for those 'in the doghouse' nights
Scott
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993James993
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Good Morning Everyone! 51, Jack, Andres, Ersatzs and TwoKids, thank you for the encouragement and suggestions.
The solid core door is an excellent solution, but keep in mind that I will need a total of 3, two of which need to be 8' long. Finding one for the gray bench is likely but the 8' length is going to make the others will be a challenge. The MDF material I am considering is rock solid and not the crumbly particle board that is widely available. It comes in 4x8 sheets and three sheets will cover two benches at 1 1/2" thick. A stainless top would likely be supported by this same material which makes me think that I can use it and later cover it with stainless. I've not decided for sure yet so I'll go by a couple of salvage yards to look at doors.
Ersatzs, the vise is over at my mother's house but I can see if it has a model number later this week. I did post it on the vises thread so we might find out there before I can check. As I recall, my father bought this back in the early to mid 1970's. I know that it was a big purchase for him and that he waited a long time to get it.
Jack, I must be nearing the end of this build because now I am starting to dream about 911 chips, PSS10's and RS ride height, short shift kits...the list goes on....
Here's how the interior looks now:
The windows and door will be trimmed out with Arts & Crafts style fir moldings stained to match. That will be one of my first projects once the benches are set up.
The electrician should add the outlets and lamps this week. I plan to use caged vapor style lamps on the two side walls and, as a temporary measure, two identical lamps above the windows. Eventually I will replace the latter set with hanging pendants but the ones I want are out of the budget, along with the stainless bench tops. This is what they will look like:
The solid core door is an excellent solution, but keep in mind that I will need a total of 3, two of which need to be 8' long. Finding one for the gray bench is likely but the 8' length is going to make the others will be a challenge. The MDF material I am considering is rock solid and not the crumbly particle board that is widely available. It comes in 4x8 sheets and three sheets will cover two benches at 1 1/2" thick. A stainless top would likely be supported by this same material which makes me think that I can use it and later cover it with stainless. I've not decided for sure yet so I'll go by a couple of salvage yards to look at doors.
Ersatzs, the vise is over at my mother's house but I can see if it has a model number later this week. I did post it on the vises thread so we might find out there before I can check. As I recall, my father bought this back in the early to mid 1970's. I know that it was a big purchase for him and that he waited a long time to get it.
Jack, I must be nearing the end of this build because now I am starting to dream about 911 chips, PSS10's and RS ride height, short shift kits...the list goes on....
Here's how the interior looks now:
The electrician should add the outlets and lamps this week. I plan to use caged vapor style lamps on the two side walls and, as a temporary measure, two identical lamps above the windows. Eventually I will replace the latter set with hanging pendants but the ones I want are out of the budget, along with the stainless bench tops. This is what they will look like:
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idoine in toronto
Well-known member
Great looking garage. Not long before you're moving in.
I agree with Jack to match all the metal table/bench frames your Kennedy boxes. They'll also fit in nicely with the Arts & Crafts theme.
Aron
I agree with Jack to match all the metal table/bench frames your Kennedy boxes. They'll also fit in nicely with the Arts & Crafts theme.
Aron
51rider
Well-known member
James,
I hear you about an 8ft door-I know all too well about finding a 'non' standard door size.
Perhaps you could use the solid core door for the grey bench only and use the composite alternative (can't possibly use those three letters in conjunction with your build) with a stainless worktop cover.
Have you thought about sourcing the stainless from catering equipment suppliers? I just found a 24x96" table with undershelf for $237 plus shipping(located in GA). There is another, this time measuring 30x96" but this one comes with a splashback-priced at $323 plus shipping also from GA. The other option is to look in the used catering eqipment for some deals. Chances are you will be able to get something that already has that weathered in sheen that would suit your garage perfectly.
I think I'd be tempted to paint all the bench framework in the matching green but I'd leave the tool box as is by way of a contrast. You can always paint it later if needed.
I hear you about an 8ft door-I know all too well about finding a 'non' standard door size.
Perhaps you could use the solid core door for the grey bench only and use the composite alternative (can't possibly use those three letters in conjunction with your build
) with a stainless worktop cover.Have you thought about sourcing the stainless from catering equipment suppliers? I just found a 24x96" table with undershelf for $237 plus shipping(located in GA). There is another, this time measuring 30x96" but this one comes with a splashback-priced at $323 plus shipping also from GA. The other option is to look in the used catering eqipment for some deals. Chances are you will be able to get something that already has that weathered in sheen that would suit your garage perfectly.
I think I'd be tempted to paint all the bench framework in the matching green but I'd leave the tool box as is by way of a contrast. You can always paint it later if needed.
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993James993
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Hi Aron and 51Rider,
Thanks for the nice comments.
51, I actually went to several restaurant supply houses a year ago and priced stainless prep tables. I seem to recall that they were available starting at $150 or so at the time. This would have been for a 5' long table. Before I completely discount stainless I will go and get a quote from a fabricator. I hope to be pleasantly surprised. The online tops I've priced run about $325 each plus shipping.
Painting the Kennedy boxes is completely out of the question for me. The brown color is iconic for that brand. Having said that, painting the cabinet and benches a similar brown just doesn't seem right to me either. I'm pretty much set on going with gray and leaving the boxes Kennedy brown.
I know it must seem foolish to try to save a few dollars at the very end by buying something that is not as originally planned. And doing so IS difficult. But I am really only foregoing the stainless work surfaces and the pendant lamps I really want temporarily.
Before I started building I recall reading advice on GJ about taking your budget and adding 50% more. As I thought I was very accurate with my budget I didn't think I would find myself in that situation. Unfortunately some materials doubled in price as time went on. Add to this the major electrical changes that were taken in mid project, and then having to update the service panel on my residence. Add labor for jobs I had originally planned to do myself (finishing the ceiling, painting the exterior and interior). Then add items that are required but overlooked in previous estimates, and suddenly you are 30% over budget and no where near finished.
I'm not bemoaning this but I do mention it as advice to others who are contemplating a project and as an explanation for why saving $1500 at the end is suddenly important! Having said this, I am very happy with everything and would not change anything.
Thanks for the nice comments.
51, I actually went to several restaurant supply houses a year ago and priced stainless prep tables. I seem to recall that they were available starting at $150 or so at the time. This would have been for a 5' long table. Before I completely discount stainless I will go and get a quote from a fabricator. I hope to be pleasantly surprised. The online tops I've priced run about $325 each plus shipping.
Painting the Kennedy boxes is completely out of the question for me. The brown color is iconic for that brand. Having said that, painting the cabinet and benches a similar brown just doesn't seem right to me either. I'm pretty much set on going with gray and leaving the boxes Kennedy brown.
I know it must seem foolish to try to save a few dollars at the very end by buying something that is not as originally planned. And doing so IS difficult. But I am really only foregoing the stainless work surfaces and the pendant lamps I really want temporarily.
Before I started building I recall reading advice on GJ about taking your budget and adding 50% more. As I thought I was very accurate with my budget I didn't think I would find myself in that situation. Unfortunately some materials doubled in price as time went on. Add to this the major electrical changes that were taken in mid project, and then having to update the service panel on my residence. Add labor for jobs I had originally planned to do myself (finishing the ceiling, painting the exterior and interior). Then add items that are required but overlooked in previous estimates, and suddenly you are 30% over budget and no where near finished.
I'm not bemoaning this but I do mention it as advice to others who are contemplating a project and as an explanation for why saving $1500 at the end is suddenly important! Having said this, I am very happy with everything and would not change anything.
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51rider
Well-known member
James,
Sage advice on the budgeting costs-who could have forseen the electrical issues you ran into. It makes perfect sense to defer the stainless until the funds are there and the materials prices come down. I just couldn't possibly imagine composite material in your beautiful garage-FLW would be creaking at the very thought
Heres's a bit of an off the wall idea-have you considered scaffolding boards for the long bench tops? I used them on a work bench I made with my Dad. We drilled through them at regular intervals, counter bored the holes on only the front & back boards before passing some M10 threaded rod through & bolting them all up nice & tight. Worked a treat & he has since put a light coat of varnish & it has mellowed really nicely. (Well I think it has-you can't see much of it as its covered in sawdust & tools-Dad isn't exactly what you would call the tidiest of workers)
Sage advice on the budgeting costs-who could have forseen the electrical issues you ran into. It makes perfect sense to defer the stainless until the funds are there and the materials prices come down. I just couldn't possibly imagine composite material in your beautiful garage-FLW would be creaking at the very thought
Heres's a bit of an off the wall idea-have you considered scaffolding boards for the long bench tops? I used them on a work bench I made with my Dad. We drilled through them at regular intervals, counter bored the holes on only the front & back boards before passing some M10 threaded rod through & bolting them all up nice & tight. Worked a treat & he has since put a light coat of varnish & it has mellowed really nicely. (Well I think it has-you can't see much of it as its covered in sawdust & tools-Dad isn't exactly what you would call the tidiest of workers
)
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993James993
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Hi 51, what are scaffolding boards? I am drawing a blank. Photos would be nice if you have any available. I like the thought of reusing a great material. I've kept an eye out for used maple bowling alley lumber but have not seen any. If I find any available that would quickly be my first choice, even above stainless. In the end I may forgo the Medium Density Fiberboard as it contains significant amounts of formaldehyde.
Stuart in MN
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Scaffold boards, or scaffold planks are what they use for scaffolds:
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/scaffolding/planking.html
They're made of high grade lumber, and I think that they are supposed to be inspected regularly and retired from use before they get too worn.
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/scaffolding/planking.html
They're made of high grade lumber, and I think that they are supposed to be inspected regularly and retired from use before they get too worn.
51rider
Well-known member
That's the stuff Stuart!
Over here the ends usually have a metal end strip to minimise damage & splitting. Used ones are fairly inexpensive but might need the attention of a portable belt sander to clean them up before turning them to worktop use.
Over here the ends usually have a metal end strip to minimise damage & splitting. Used ones are fairly inexpensive but might need the attention of a portable belt sander to clean them up before turning them to worktop use.
Wow, garage is looking great. Nice shade of white, too. I tend to prefer the warmer shades to the cooler shades so it looks good to my eye on the computer monitor here.
Another option for the bench tops is to get a very deep but thin glue-lam beam and turn it sideways. You can get them in continuous lengths up to 40 ft long (so no seams or joints if you want a 8 1/2 ft table, or a 12 ft table, or a 15 ft long bench , etc.). They're glued up in a factory with presses and the sides of the beam (top of the bench if turned flat) are also factory sanded smooth and flat. They are usually priced by the foot.
I think the narrowest width would be 3 1/8" thick (so a 3 1/8" thick solid wood bench top, not bad) and come in depths in 1 1/2" increments up to about 30" deep or so.
Check with a Lowes, Home Depot in their commecial departments or with an independent lumber yard for availability.
When I did some poking around I think a 3 1/2" x 26" (or so) beam was around $14 / lf. So an 8 ft long, 3 1/8" thick solid wood factory laminated and sanded "bench top" would be $112.
Another option for the bench tops is to get a very deep but thin glue-lam beam and turn it sideways. You can get them in continuous lengths up to 40 ft long (so no seams or joints if you want a 8 1/2 ft table, or a 12 ft table, or a 15 ft long bench , etc.). They're glued up in a factory with presses and the sides of the beam (top of the bench if turned flat) are also factory sanded smooth and flat. They are usually priced by the foot.
I think the narrowest width would be 3 1/8" thick (so a 3 1/8" thick solid wood bench top, not bad) and come in depths in 1 1/2" increments up to about 30" deep or so.
Check with a Lowes, Home Depot in their commecial departments or with an independent lumber yard for availability.
When I did some poking around I think a 3 1/2" x 26" (or so) beam was around $14 / lf. So an 8 ft long, 3 1/8" thick solid wood factory laminated and sanded "bench top" would be $112.
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993James993
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Hi Stuart, 51 and Lupinsea,
Thanks for the link to the info on the scaffold planks and the idea for the gluelam top. Both are excellent ideas. At some point I would like a laminated maple top for the 5' bench so it I might just bite the bullet and do it. I'm already planning a trip to the salvage yards to look at solid core doors and I'll keep my eyes open for other possibilities.
Lupinsea, the white is really nice. It looked very yellow when it went up but now it just looks creamy. I like how it goes with the stained ceiling and the door.
I foolishly (or wisely, depending on which point of view I take) had the painter quote some work on my house, my son's house and my daughter's house. The work on my son's house is completed, he starts on my house on Monday, and I'm having him paint my daughter's house as well. One point of view could be "there goes the funding for my stainless bench tops, etc. etc." Another point of view could be "I just saved more than enough painting the three houses to pay for my stainless bench tops!" I guess this is a variation on the glass half full or half empty question. At the very least, both of my kids and the painter are happy with whatever the outcome.
Thanks for the link to the info on the scaffold planks and the idea for the gluelam top. Both are excellent ideas. At some point I would like a laminated maple top for the 5' bench so it I might just bite the bullet and do it. I'm already planning a trip to the salvage yards to look at solid core doors and I'll keep my eyes open for other possibilities.
Lupinsea, the white is really nice. It looked very yellow when it went up but now it just looks creamy. I like how it goes with the stained ceiling and the door.
I foolishly (or wisely, depending on which point of view I take) had the painter quote some work on my house, my son's house and my daughter's house. The work on my son's house is completed, he starts on my house on Monday, and I'm having him paint my daughter's house as well. One point of view could be "there goes the funding for my stainless bench tops, etc. etc." Another point of view could be "I just saved more than enough painting the three houses to pay for my stainless bench tops!" I guess this is a variation on the glass half full or half empty question. At the very least, both of my kids and the painter are happy with whatever the outcome.
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993James993
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Today was another "wow" day! The electrician was waiting outside when I left for work this morning. When I came home I had light!
The sconces on the side walls are permanent. The identical lamps on the ceiling above the space for the bench are temporary. The industrial pendants I ultimately want run $260 each. These were $33. They do an adequate job of lighting the space and the wife likes them!
Tomorrow I'll call in my last two inspections! With luck I'll pass and be done with the city.
The sconces on the side walls are permanent. The identical lamps on the ceiling above the space for the bench are temporary. The industrial pendants I ultimately want run $260 each. These were $33. They do an adequate job of lighting the space and the wife likes them!
Tomorrow I'll call in my last two inspections! With luck I'll pass and be done with the city.
abstamaria
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The place is lovely, James. Now you have a real problem - how to furnish the place in a way that complements its simplicity and beauty. Andres
AndresStuart in MN
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There have been some positive reports here on the laminated maple table tops from Ikea, that may be worth investigating.
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993James993
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The place is lovely, James. Now you have a real problem - how to furnish the place in a way that complements its simplicity and beauty.
Thank you Andres!
If only the trim were installed around the windows and door I could claim perfection with the two cars being the furnishing.
Fortunately I will need the work benches to cut and prepare the trim so they will be included. I am still finalizing how I want to set everything up. I have several options and over the weekend I think it a good idea to draw interior 'elevations' with different configurations. This will include the grey bench and both 8' tables (21'), grey bench and one 8' table (13'), grey bench and two 6' tables (17'). The shorter lengths will allow me to put the Kennedy box on the rear wall. I'll post pdfs.
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993James993
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Hi Stuart,
Now that you mention it I've seen those reports. Ikea has both Maple and Stainless tops. As I recall the stainless ones are a few inches short in both length and depth. I also recall the prices being very reasonable. There is an Ikea about a hundred miles away. I've not had the time to visit that store but I hope to do so before month's end.
Thanks for the heads up!
ersatzs2
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I have an idea for you. Given your design values and what you've achieved in execution, it seems like a shame to go with the somewhat sterile look of all stainless. Also, wooden benchtops have a real purpose and are nice to work on when you are, well, working with wood, and also far more pleasant in winter. On the other hand, for a 'mechanics' shop, you'd really like stainless sometimes, eg when banging on something, doing an oily disassembly, sliding something heavy, etc etc.
It's also tough, as I've learned, to find ready-made tops sized to your needs.
Finally, you are concerned about the budget.
So here's the concept:
What about a hardwood benchtop with stainless inserts; a glued up maple top, with a 12 gauge stainless panel countersunk flush into the top work surface.
This could be extremely economical: you need to buy only a flat stainless rectangle, (or two/three). To make the top, glue up some 2x3s to the width you need, use Maple for the exposed 2-3" at the sides and ends, pine/fir/whatever's cheap in the interior which you will cover with SS. if you have access to a surface planer, great, but you can get close enough to get it flat with a belt sander if you lay everything up carefully. Use a router to mill out the recess for the stainless to a 12 or 14 gauge depth. Secure to steel to the wood with an adhesive bed. Stain the maple to match your ceiling. voila.
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Ikea has 97"x25" stainless benchtops for $100. They're only 5/8" thick, but you can design to accommodate that.
Craftsman sells 96"x24" stainless bench tops that are a full 1-1/2" thick, but they're $225 a piece.
Both places also sell butcherblock, which you can treat with oil or stain to match the other wood in your shop.
As you can see, you've built a beautiful enough garage that a lot of us want the interior to complement it appropriately. Good work brings a certain set of obligations with it.
(I haven't even started making the case for ceramic tile yet.)
Craftsman sells 96"x24" stainless bench tops that are a full 1-1/2" thick, but they're $225 a piece.
Both places also sell butcherblock, which you can treat with oil or stain to match the other wood in your shop.
As you can see, you've built a beautiful enough garage that a lot of us want the interior to complement it appropriately. Good work brings a certain set of obligations with it.
(I haven't even started making the case for ceramic tile yet.)
abstamaria
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Yes, I was thinking ceramic tile, too.
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993James993
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Hello Jack, Andres and Ersatzs,
Thanks for the ideas and the feed back. Ersatzs, I really like your concept and I am still thinking it through. I may end up doing something based on your ideas.
Jack, are you familiar with the Ikea benchtops? The price seems too good to be true. Because of the low price I am concerned that the steel one would dent easily. I've looked at the craftsman tops and they seem great, but I really want a 30" depth. I'm still considering them though, especially if the 30" depth proves to be too wide to allow for easy flow around the front of the cars. Another option is to mount them on the frames with a 6" wooden board at the rear. This would give the stainless work surface and the additional depth.
Now, for ceramic, are you thinking ceramic for the walls? Or the flooring?
Thanks again for your encouragement and suggestions!
Thanks for the ideas and the feed back. Ersatzs, I really like your concept and I am still thinking it through. I may end up doing something based on your ideas.
Jack, are you familiar with the Ikea benchtops? The price seems too good to be true. Because of the low price I am concerned that the steel one would dent easily. I've looked at the craftsman tops and they seem great, but I really want a 30" depth. I'm still considering them though, especially if the 30" depth proves to be too wide to allow for easy flow around the front of the cars. Another option is to mount them on the frames with a 6" wooden board at the rear. This would give the stainless work surface and the additional depth.
Now, for ceramic, are you thinking ceramic for the walls? Or the flooring?
Thanks again for your encouragement and suggestions!
51rider
Well-known member
It would be ceramic tile for the floor-you couldn't possibly tile those walls & hide the lovely paint job
I really like the work top idea that ersatzs2 came up with but those prices from Ikea sure do seem very tempting. Jack, can you post the part numbers so we can look at them on the web site? I wonder if we can get them here in 'Blighty
I really like the work top idea that ersatzs2 came up with but those prices from Ikea sure do seem very tempting. Jack, can you post the part numbers so we can look at them on the web site? I wonder if we can get them here in 'Blighty
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993James993
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Jack, I beat you to it!
Here are some links to stainless tops:
Global
Ikea
Craftsman
Each site has several options and all of them have maple butcher blocks as well.
I noted that Sears offers an MDF top for $72 and the stainless is on sale for $180. This is for a 24" deep unit. Thats a very good price for stainless.
Here are some links to stainless tops:
Global
Ikea
Craftsman
Each site has several options and all of them have maple butcher blocks as well.
I noted that Sears offers an MDF top for $72 and the stainless is on sale for $180. This is for a 24" deep unit. Thats a very good price for stainless.
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abstamaria
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For the floor, James. Like Jack Olsen's.
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993James993
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On Thursday I called in the request for the last two inspections, Electric Final and Building Final. I spoke with one of the residential plan reviewers and asked him to check my record for all remaining inspections. I've had five or more revisions to the original plans (remove plumbing, alter roof fire protection system, as well as several related to electrical changes) which added multiple new inspections. My original activity card was never amended and I wanted to be sure I didn't miss anything. He said those were the only two remaining and that once approved I didn't have to do anything else related to the permit.
On Friday I drove home at lunchtime to see if the inspector had been there. When I got there the gate was closed (the inspectors have always left it open) so I assumed that no one had been out yet. My anticipation sank. But when I walked I saw that the plans were out of their storage tube and the folder with the inspection card was laying on top of them. My heart was racing when I picked up the paperwork. The inspection order had some scribbles vaguely resembling an A next to the Electric Final line. Part of the scribble extended to the Building Final area. No other notes were on the form. I took the plans inside the house and had to look at the form again to try to figure out if we had passed or not. The lack of other comments finally convinced me that it was indeed approved! I can't describe how happy I felt at that moment! I have not smiled that much in ages!
Yesterday was a landmark day! I'm by no means done but having the inspections over with is a huge milestone!
My neighbor and I laid out the garage in late September last year and we broke ground on October 12, so a year has gone by! When we started I was certain it we would be done in five or six months! This is a very nice day!!!
On Friday I drove home at lunchtime to see if the inspector had been there. When I got there the gate was closed (the inspectors have always left it open) so I assumed that no one had been out yet. My anticipation sank. But when I walked I saw that the plans were out of their storage tube and the folder with the inspection card was laying on top of them. My heart was racing when I picked up the paperwork. The inspection order had some scribbles vaguely resembling an A next to the Electric Final line. Part of the scribble extended to the Building Final area. No other notes were on the form. I took the plans inside the house and had to look at the form again to try to figure out if we had passed or not. The lack of other comments finally convinced me that it was indeed approved! I can't describe how happy I felt at that moment! I have not smiled that much in ages!
Yesterday was a landmark day! I'm by no means done but having the inspections over with is a huge milestone!
My neighbor and I laid out the garage in late September last year and we broke ground on October 12, so a year has gone by! When we started I was certain it we would be done in five or six months! This is a very nice day!!!
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Congratulations! It's a job well done -- and a really beautiful space.
twokidsnosleep
Well-known member
Yes congrats, the end of building is near and now you can enjoy your creation
Cheers, Scott
Cheers, Scott
abstamaria
Well-known member
That is good news.