fishwatcher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2023
- Messages
- 759
Did you use Rustoleum Hammered grey? I also see they offer hammered Antique Pewter, and hammered silver gloss.
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
IRQVET
Well-known member
Hammered Silver Gloss Rustoleum oil based in the 1 qt can. Another thing I'll add, is don't use the cheap $1.79 horse hair paint brushes, did that once, and with oil based, it was pulling the hairs out of the brush and into the finish. So now I use synthetic brushes, which are like $3.50 a piece where I am. And I say it again, I don't brush it on- I dib it on. From my experience the finish with the hammered paints come out much better. Which was difficult for me cause I so used to using paint guns, that's just where my comfort zone is. But dabbing on with a paint brush comes out much better IMHO. Again, speaking to hammered finishes only.
neharr41
Well-known member
Here's a smokin' deal on a Wilton bullet in Rochester, NY. Bit too far for me to drive.
rochester.craigslist.org
Vice - tools - by owner - sale - craigslist
Great shape asking 25 or best offer call or text anytime and pick up anytime up all day and night due to being on call
RickP330
Well-known member
I'd go look for sure and I don't even need a vise.
Edit: don't need another vise
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
$50 for a Parker that does not look broken? Why isn't it in your garage already?
RickP330
Well-known member
akasrick
Well-known member
Set #10 came with 17 vises they really crowded their displays.
akasrick
Edit
Hmmm... also came with a hat
akasrick
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four.cycle
Well-known member
^ exactly 17
Attachments
Oregon rock crusher
Well-known member
Dry day today which is good for dusting off vises with the wire wheels outside and I had time for two. The first was a 5" Wilton bullet date code 1-71. This one came out of the first shop I ever worked at. It was there in 75' when I started working summers and weekends mounted to the only bench in the shop. I learned a lot from the old mechanics there and when my Dad sold the business in 86' I took it home while we were cleaning out the shop. It had been on my fab bench for the last 30 years or so.... Plenty of scars to show for it, many from the early years.
The Parker 954 was picked up at a swap meet a year or so ago and has been in need of attention since then. You could see it had potential, even through the multiple layers of paint and rust. Both of these will stay as is in all their naked glory sporting only a light oil finish. Ed.
The Parker 954 was picked up at a swap meet a year or so ago and has been in need of attention since then. You could see it had potential, even through the multiple layers of paint and rust. Both of these will stay as is in all their naked glory sporting only a light oil finish. Ed.
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RickP330
Well-known member
Okay all - I got er done.
It appears to me (and Grok) that this is a pre 1900's Parker 4" model 204 vise with the meatball style handle. It is in working condition although the pin to unlock the swivel base is missing. For $50 I appear to have purchased at the low end of the typical value of $50 to $150 bucks. I think I did okay.
I should give it some love though while it does move the full travel it feels like the screw is turning through some very heavy old paste grease and the slides are bare. Any advice for restoration to return this to service? What can I use as an acceptable replacement for the swivel handle?
RP
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neharr41
Well-known member
Well... thought I had found a good deal on a Wilton baby bullet w/ Powr Arm at an online auction in OH. Was going to have them ship the vise to me as I'm a couple states away.
I get a call this afternoon from the auction house asking if I had picked up the vise. "Uh... no?". They proceed to tell me that someone must've stolen it during the pickup times or an employee of theirs gave it to the wrong person because it's nowhere in sight. Sigh.
Oh well. Either someone else actually took it or the auction house decided to sell it to someone else for more. Either way, nothing I can do about it. Just wish people had a little more integrity, would make the world a much better place to be.
Anyway, if the person who stole it is reading this: You REALLY ****.
End rant!
I get a call this afternoon from the auction house asking if I had picked up the vise. "Uh... no?". They proceed to tell me that someone must've stolen it during the pickup times or an employee of theirs gave it to the wrong person because it's nowhere in sight. Sigh.
Oh well. Either someone else actually took it or the auction house decided to sell it to someone else for more. Either way, nothing I can do about it. Just wish people had a little more integrity, would make the world a much better place to be.
Anyway, if the person who stole it is reading this: You REALLY ****.
End rant!
Shiftless
Well-known member
Neharr41:
I can see why that one sprouted legs and walked away on its own…it’s in primo condition.
Sorry you lost out but I presume you got your bid amount back.
I can see why that one sprouted legs and walked away on its own…it’s in primo condition.
Sorry you lost out but I presume you got your bid amount back.
Patrickm82
Well-known member
RickP330
Well-known member
Hi guys, I'm taking this apart to clean it up. Two questions, do I bother to take out the lead screw pawl by pulling the dowel pin so I can clean the entire assembly? If so is there some trick to this or just use vise grips.
Second question, is it worthwhile trying to remove the jaws and replace and or clean them? Or am I digging too deep into this. It's also not real obvious how the jaws are removed.
Much Thanks
Rick
Second question, is it worthwhile trying to remove the jaws and replace and or clean them? Or am I digging too deep into this. It's also not real obvious how the jaws are removed.
Much Thanks
Rick
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Leave the main screw nut in place unless you need to remove it for some reason, you can clean around it easily enough.
Same with the jaws, wire wheel the faces and whatever other cleanup and call it good
Note that Parker jaws adn not easily or cheaply replaced. look at the complex profile of the jaw face to casting interface, each one is "custom fit"
Same with the jaws, wire wheel the faces and whatever other cleanup and call it good
Note that Parker jaws adn not easily or cheaply replaced. look at the complex profile of the jaw face to casting interface, each one is "custom fit"
neharr41
Well-known member
Yes, thankfully the auction house refunded me in full.
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
These two ended up being brought into the family today - A Stanley 763 and a Rock Island 142. I bought them from an auction at an incredible old power plant in Lead, SD (street view photo attached). These vises I do not believe were from the power plant when it was in operation, they were just part of the current owner's collection. I did not need to add these to my collection and they aren't exactly "special" pieces, but they were extremely cheap. I placed one bid on each vise and won them both for $5 each. To me, it was worth the $10 just to check out the old building, so a couple of neat old vises was just the cherry on top!
The Stanley is in pretty good condition, most of the original paint is there and I'm sure it will clean up nicely. The Rock Island clearly has seen better days, but it would also clean up pretty well as the only apparent damage are some nicks and chips around the jaws from use. The pipe jaws are of course missing. It's my understanding that this 142 is a pretty early vise, I saw it on a 1909 catalog page anyway.
The Stanley is in pretty good condition, most of the original paint is there and I'm sure it will clean up nicely. The Rock Island clearly has seen better days, but it would also clean up pretty well as the only apparent damage are some nicks and chips around the jaws from use. The pipe jaws are of course missing. It's my understanding that this 142 is a pretty early vise, I saw it on a 1909 catalog page anyway.
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
And here are some photos with the tape measure because I noticed that there was some info missing from the Vise Info Spreadsheet.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Nice finds Austin!
For the "max opening" close the vise and measure the slide stick out - you don't want the slide out further as it won't have the support needed on the tail of the slide.
For the "max opening" close the vise and measure the slide stick out - you don't want the slide out further as it won't have the support needed on the tail of the slide.
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
The photo doesn't show it, but I have the end of the slide flush with the rear of the static jaw. If that isn't sufficient, I will collect the measurement you asked for next time I'm in the shop. Thank you!
Shiftless
Well-known member
to that ^^^^^^^^^^^^Shiftless
Well-known member
That should yield the same measurement. The technique many of us follow and that outlaw described seems easier and safer.
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
I suppose it would! I'll remember that for next time.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Did one of you guys win the auction a few minutes ago for a sweet little Parker 973?
Your winning bid was $231. I was in second place.
Your winning bid was $231. I was in second place.
M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
My '32 Reed 204 that I posted in the date code thread. Decided to just coat the friction surfaces with nickel anti-sieze, and use it for now.
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
Buy a stainless steel long hex bolt and matching nut. The unthreaded length of the bolt needs to be the desired handle length. Insert the bolt thru the removed clamp. Thread the nut all the way onto the bolt and tighten hard. Cut off the threads extending past the nut. Use a grinder to smooth off the end of the cut bolt and round off the bolt heads.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I like to use Jam nuts as they are closer to the bo;lt head thickness, and I leave the cut off bolt slightly proud and peen it to lock it in.
RTM
Well-known member
Beware, before you go crazy, that the bolt head will fit between the swivel “nut” and the vise body. I have a Simplex that the clearance is VERY tight, the factory counterbored the nut I think, so the end of the handle would fit.
RickP330
Well-known member
Awesome - thank you fellas, Now what would be an appropriate finish on the cast iron part and would sand blasting be appropriate? Is painting the cast iron parts no good?
RP
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I'm not a fan of sand blasting, especially on the slide and other finished parts.
o Wire wheels
o Simple Green soak will remove the grease dn paint. get it warm if you can.
o Electrolysis tank
o Evaporust
For finish, what do you like?. some paint, some use BLO, some use sculpt nouveau...
o Wire wheels
o Simple Green soak will remove the grease dn paint. get it warm if you can.
o Electrolysis tank
o Evaporust
For finish, what do you like?. some paint, some use BLO, some use sculpt nouveau...
RickP330
Well-known member
* If this is inappropriate here or I should start my own thread please LMK*
I'll go with the Evaporust route here and since it's a working vise I'll hit the cast non sliding surfaces with some rustoleum.
Cleaning up the lead screw, it looks great hard to believe its as old as it is. However, in the base of the meatball I hit it with some compressed air and a telltale streak of black thinners appeared. Sure enough wiggle it a little and there is ever so slight movement. It looks like there was a weld or something here, but how is the lead screw fastened to the meatball? I was under the impression it was one piece, is it screwed in? Is this something I need to fix?
RP
I'll go with the Evaporust route here and since it's a working vise I'll hit the cast non sliding surfaces with some rustoleum.
Cleaning up the lead screw, it looks great hard to believe its as old as it is. However, in the base of the meatball I hit it with some compressed air and a telltale streak of black thinners appeared. Sure enough wiggle it a little and there is ever so slight movement. It looks like there was a weld or something here, but how is the lead screw fastened to the meatball? I was under the impression it was one piece, is it screwed in? Is this something I need to fix?
RP
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Shiftless
Well-known member
If I remember correctly, those parts were joined by friction welding.
Oregon rock crusher
Well-known member
Regardless of how that meatball was originally attached to the spindle I would end up gouging out a groove and putting a bead in there and grinding back to flat. In a perfect world it would be a fresh break and you could possibly sweat some silver solder in the crack but with contamination that is a no go.
RickP330
Well-known member
I am going to bring it to our machine shop and have them turn a groove into the meatball and lead screw. Then I will bring it to a welder and have them fill the groove with TIG weld relying on his expertise how to handle any contaminants in the cracked portion. Then we will put it back in the lathe and turn the meatball face true to the axis again (the original tail stock dimples are still there). This will all take place on favor credits of course. I'll keep you posted.
RP
RP
FMC1959
Well-known member
Maybe 10 days to 2 weeks ago I saw this mentioned, either on GJ or elsewhere, and I have been following it, just for curiosity of what it will finally go for.
The "title" is wrong, a 109 would be in the 300+lb range, and a couple of other things about this auction were odd. Despite the bent handle and a couple of drilled holes on the slide (I don't think it came that way), it looks in pretty good shape.
It's a lot of money, although this is one of the white whales for vise collectors. Possibly the Holy Grail might be a Reed 209. I don't believe I have ever seen a picture of one that someone owns, only brochure pics. The 109 I have seen a few, many here on GJ, but the 209...nope.
When I see a vise like this, bolted outside, I am sure it has gone through a tough life and has some great stories.
Anyway, I thought others would be interested in seeing what this sells for on Wednesday.
The "title" is wrong, a 109 would be in the 300+lb range, and a couple of other things about this auction were odd. Despite the bent handle and a couple of drilled holes on the slide (I don't think it came that way), it looks in pretty good shape.
It's a lot of money, although this is one of the white whales for vise collectors. Possibly the Holy Grail might be a Reed 209. I don't believe I have ever seen a picture of one that someone owns, only brochure pics. The 109 I have seen a few, many here on GJ, but the 209...nope.
When I see a vise like this, bolted outside, I am sure it has gone through a tough life and has some great stories.
Anyway, I thought others would be interested in seeing what this sells for on Wednesday.
FMC1959
Well-known member
Maybe 10 days to 2 weeks ago I saw this mentioned, either on GJ or elsewhere, and I have been following it, just for curiosity of what it will finally go for.
The "title" is wrong, a 109 would be in the 300+lb range, and a couple of other things about this auction were odd. Despite the bent handle and a couple of drilled holes on the slide (I don't think it came that way), it looks in pretty good shape.
It's a lot of money, although this is one of the white whales for vise collectors. Possibly the Holy Grail might be a Reed 209. I don't believe I have ever seen a picture of one that someone owns, only brochure pics. The 109 I have seen a few, many here on GJ, but the 209...nope.
When I see a vise like this, bolted outside, I am sure it has gone through a tough life and has some great stories.
Anyway, I thought others would be interested in seeing what this sells for on Wednesday.
The "title" is wrong, a 109 would be in the 300+lb range, and a couple of other things about this auction were odd. Despite the bent handle and a couple of drilled holes on the slide (I don't think it came that way), it looks in pretty good shape.
It's a lot of money, although this is one of the white whales for vise collectors. Possibly the Holy Grail might be a Reed 209. I don't believe I have ever seen a picture of one that someone owns, only brochure pics. The 109 I have seen a few, many here on GJ, but the 209...nope.
When I see a vise like this, bolted outside, I am sure it has gone through a tough life and has some great stories.
Anyway, I thought others would be interested in seeing what this sells for on Wednesday.
KMScott
Well-known member
RickP
I have seen early Parker meatballs having the threaded steel spindle cast inside the meatball. I have some pics while repairing a Reed 109 meatball that was casted. Also see the Reed 106 handle end with the steel handle end cast inside the cast ball ends. The spindle on the Reed had a flat teardrop shaped so they would not spin when used .
Then along the way a weld was done trying to weld steel to cast. Check to see if your meatball is cast before talking to your welder. Most vise makers friction welded the spindle to the meatball when both are steel. I’m sure your meatball will hold up for many more years even if it’s loose.
I have seen early Parker meatballs having the threaded steel spindle cast inside the meatball. I have some pics while repairing a Reed 109 meatball that was casted. Also see the Reed 106 handle end with the steel handle end cast inside the cast ball ends. The spindle on the Reed had a flat teardrop shaped so they would not spin when used .
Then along the way a weld was done trying to weld steel to cast. Check to see if your meatball is cast before talking to your welder. Most vise makers friction welded the spindle to the meatball when both are steel. I’m sure your meatball will hold up for many more years even if it’s loose.
